Conversation with a chef

You can tell a lot about a chef by how they talk about repetition. For Aaron, it’s not tedious, it’s essential. He grew up in Perth, found his culinary footing in a small seafood kitchen, and went on to cook in some of London’s most intense and celebrated restaurants. Now heading up the kitchen at O’Connell’s Hotel in South Melbourne, Aaron brings with him the calm authority of someone who’s done the hard yards. Aaron’s career spans Michelin-starred restaurants, big-name mentors like Jason Atherton and Shane Osborn, and some of Melbourne’s best-known venues like Cumulous, Scott Pickett’s restaurants as well as Oakridge Winery. He still keeps recipe notebooks, mostly lists of ingredients, and draws inspiration from everywhere: books, produce, places, memory. And after all these years, he still genuinely loves being in the kitchen. That short, sharp burst of service? It’s where he feels most at home.

II.II.VI is freshly open and in soft launch mode at the time of recording, which means the team is still getting into the rhythm of service and the full menu isn’t live yet. The grills haven’t yet been installed, which is significant, because open flame cooking is central to what head chef Haitham Richani has planned. I sat down with Haitham and executive chef Kerry Lam to talk about the thinking behind the restaurant. Haitham has worked in both front and back of house, and that range of experience has shaped everything; from kitchen layout to the way the team works together. Kerry is also behind Ministry of Crab upstairs, and at II.II.VI, he’s given Haitham the reins to create something new. We talked about designing kitchens that actually make sense, the role of team input, how seasonal produce drives creativity, and why a notebook can be as valuable as a knife roll.

This week I sat down with Alberto Borghi of Del Bocia Butter, although calling it “butter” barely covers it. This is butter with soul, butter with story. I first came across Alberto’s work at DOC in St Kilda, where a seaweed butter and a very memorable Alfredo pasta got me hooked. I imagined the maker must be an old Italian man with a wooden churn…and then I found Alberto on Instagram. Not an old man. No wooden churn in sight. But every bit as traditional as you’d hope, and just as passionate. From 30 kilos a week made in a shared kitchen with a planetary mixer to importing and restoring vintage machines from the Dolomites, Alberto’s journey is full of energy, joy, and a stubborn devotion to quality. He talks about butter like some people talk about wine or poetry. And I’m here for it.

Giorgio Linguanti arrived in Australia from Sicily with no English, no cheese-making experience, and no plans to start a dairy empire, and yet, here we are. That’s Amore Cheese, the company he founded, is now beloved across the country and beyond our shores for its fresh, authentic Italian cheeses, from silky ricotta to smoky scamorza, and of course, the show-stealing burrata. Giorgio introduced burrata to the Australian market and has built his business and his reputation on passion, perseverance, and a very good palate. I last saw Giorgio at the launch of his Burrata book, the first and only book in the world dedicated to this pillowy, cream-filled cheese. It’s not just a collection of recipes, though those are glorious; it’s also a deep dive into the backstory of burrata; its history, its evolution, and the politics of production in its birthplace, Puglia. I sat down with Giorgio in his Thomastown HQ, to talk about how the book came together, what happened when he went looking for burrata’s origins, and why he believes obstacles are often just gentle nudges in a better direction.

Dario Di Clerico’s culinary story began at just 14, when he first stepped into a professional kitchen in his native Italy. Since then, he’s forged a path defined by talent, grit and unshakeable passion. He trained under the youngest (at the time) Michelin-starred chef in the UK, refining his skills in high-pressure kitchens and learning what it takes to lead with precision and creativity. When he moved to Australia, Dario brought that same energy and expertise with him, quickly making his mark on the local food scene. Now at the helm of Cannoleria and the Burrata Bar, he’s not only delighting diners with playful takes on Italian classics, he’s also inspiring a new generation of chefs. In this episode, we talk about his deep respect for tradition, his inventive streak (yes, there has been a Vegemite and parmesan cannolo), and what it means to build something meaningful in the ever-evolving world of food.