Dirty Laundry: Unpacking The Costume Closet

Elizabeth Wislar [https://www.dirtylaundrythepodcast.com/bio-elizabeth-wislar], Dede Ayite [https://www.dirtylaundrythepodcast.com/bio-dede-ayite], & Clint Ramos [https://www.dirtylaundrythepodcast.com/bio-clint-ramos] discuss decolonizing the costume imagination. Decolonization is the active resistance against colonial powers. It is a shifting of political, economic, educational, cultural, & psychic independence & power to a nation’s own indigenous peoples. Decolonizing art requires an unlearning of white supremacy; a de-centering of Eurocentric ideals of art, aesthetic, & design; & the dismantling of institutions that are steeped in colonization, including capitalism & white American theatre. Mentioned In This Episode: History of Singapore [https://www.nationsonline.org/oneworld/History/Singapore-history.htm] Colonialism in Singapore Today [https://newnaratif.com/research/justifying-colonial-rule-in-post-colonial-singapore/] Colonization in The Philippines [https://www.asianstudies.org/publications/eaa/archives/the-philippines-an-overview-of-the-colonial-era/] Filipino-American Colonial Mentality [https://asianmentalhealthproject.com/2020/10/22/colonial-mentality-in-the-filipino-american-community/] Colonialism in Ghana [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4bowdxeIbS0] Resisting Colonialism in Ghana [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=08reE8PqzSc] Epigenetics [https://www.bbc.com/future/article/20190326-what-is-epigenetics] Cognitive Behavioral Therapy [https://www.healthline.com/health/cognitive-behavioral-therapy] Scott Rudin Abuse Allegations [https://variety.com/2021/film/news/scott-rudin-abuse-allegations-films-streaming-broadway-1234955182/] More From Our Guests: Conscious Costume Profile of Elizabeth [https://www.consciouscostume.com/conscious-costume-1/2020/3/30/march-conscious-hero-elizabeth-wislar] Elizabeth's Website [https://elizabethwislar.wixsite.com/mysite] Daily Beast Profile of Dede [https://www.thedailybeast.com/how-dede-ayite-tony-nominated-costume-designer-is-fighting-to-end-racism-on-broadway] Dede's Instagram [https://www.instagram.com/dedeayitedesign/?hl=en] Clint's Column for Deadline [https://deadline.com/2021/05/clint-ramos-broadway-reopening-bipoc-diversity-questions-guest-column-slave-play-1234760325/] Clint's Website [http://www.clintramos.com/] Additional Resources: Racial Equity Tools for Decolonization [https://www.racialequitytools.org/resources/fundamentals/core-concepts/decolonization-theory-and-practice] The Fashion and Race Database [https://fashionandrace.org/database/] Decolonizing Fashion [https://www.consciouslifeandstyle.com/decolonizing-fashion/] Eurocentric Beauty Standards [https://inbreakthrough.org/eurocentric-beauty-history/] Sustainability & Colonialism [https://www.thecut.com/2018/02/understanding-sustainability-means-talking-about-colonialism.html] Visit our Bookshop [https://bookshop.org/lists/decolonizing-the-costume-imagination] for more reading recs! Find Us Online: Donate [https://www.paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=7S94Q8YBJG48S&Z3JncnB0=]or Join Our Patreon [https://www.patreon.com/johannapan] dirtylaundrythepodcast.com [https://www.dirtylaundrythepodcast.com/] Host: Johanna Pan [https://johannapan.com/] Producers: Shayna O'Neill & Johanna Pan [https://hannabi.studio/] Music: Jay Ong Audio Engineer: Justin Sabe Episode transcript [https://www.dirtylaundrythepodcast.com/transcript-episode-3]

Johanna talks with Cassandra Freeman [https://www.dirtylaundrythepodcast.com/bio-cassandra-freeman], Nikiya Mathis [https://www.dirtylaundrythepodcast.com/bio-nikiya-mathis], and Cody Renard Richard [https://www.dirtylaundrythepodcast.com/bio-cody-renard-richard] about Black hair in theatre and film. Black actors' hair needs are continually neglected in the industry; producers are often woefully lacking in knowledge of the time, money, and work required to achieve various hairstyles. Companies often have no relationship with Black hair/wig stylists in their community, and leave Black actors to spend their own money and time on styling for their roles. In this episode, we discuss the ways theatre and film can end Black hair discrimination, and the effects such discrimination has had on Black artists. Mentioned in This Episode: Oscar James [http://www.kenbarboza.com/gallery/oscar-james/] Molly Rogers [http://www.mollyrogers.net/] Bridging The Gap [https://bridgingthegapintheatre.com/] National Black Hair & Makeup Registry [https://www.facebook.com/blackhmuunited] The CCR Scholarship Program [https://www.codyrenard.com/scholarship] Broadway Advocacy Coalition [https://www.bwayadvocacycoalition.org/] More From Our Guests: Interview with Cassandra [https://storyandrain.com/article/people-her-life-is-her-art-cassandra-freeman] Cassandra's Twitter [https://twitter.com/cassiefree?lang=en] HAIRversations & HAIRstories [https://www.acttresseshair.com/hairversations-hairstories] Nikiya's Website [https://www.acttresseshair.com/] Interview with Cody [https://www.playbill.com/article/cody-renard-richard-on-experiencing-racism-as-a-broadway-stage-manager-and-a-call-to-allies] Cody's Website [https://www.codyrenard.com/] Additional Resources: Black Hair Guide [https://www.whowhatwear.com/black-hair-guide/slide26] The CROWN Act [https://www.thecrownact.com/] Hair Love, A Short Film by Matthew A. Cherry [http://www.matthewacherry.com/hair-love] 8 Things You Always Wanted to Know About Black Women's Hair [http://www.mashupamericans.com/issues/8-things-always-wanted-know-black-womens-hair/] How Natural Black Hair at Work Became a Civil Rights Issue [https://daily.jstor.org/how-natural-black-hair-at-work-became-a-civil-rights-issue/] 12 Reasons Why Hair Is Important in Black History [https://mom.com/momlife/reasons-why-hair-is-important-in-black-history] Who Decided Black Hair Is So Offensive Anyway? [https://www.glamour.com/story/black-hair-offensive-timeline] My Black Hair: A Tangled Story of Race and Politics in America [https://qz.com/432098/my-black-hair-a-tangled-story-of-race-and-politics-in-america/] Visit our Bookshop [https://bookshop.org/lists/black-hair] for more reading recs! Support The Show: Donate [https://www.paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=7S94Q8YBJG48S&Z3JncnB0=]or Join Our Patreon [https://www.patreon.com/johannapan] Find Us Online: dirtylaundrythepodcast.com [https://www.dirtylaundrythepodcast.com/] Instagram [https://www.instagram.com/dirtylaundry.thepodcast/] Facebook [https://www.facebook.com/dirtylaundry.thepodcast] Twitter [https://twitter.com/dirtylaundry_pc] Host: Johanna Pan [https://johannapan.com/] Producers: Shayna O'Neill & Johanna Pan [https://hannabi.studio/] Music: Jay Ong Audio Engineer: Justin Sabe Transcript [https://www.dirtylaundrythepodcast.com/transcript-episode-2]

Argh, the sound quality, we know! We had some technical difficulties with our first set of interviews, but we still wanted to share the great things our guests had to say! And don't worry, we've got a brand new mic for Johanna, so she'll sound great moving forward! Porsche McGovern [https://www.dirtylaundrythepodcast.com/bio-porsche-mcgovern], Elsa Hiltner [https://www.dirtylaundrythepodcast.com/bio-elsa-hiltner], and Jessa-Raye Court [https://www.dirtylaundrythepodcast.com/bio-jessa-raye-court]join Johanna to discuss feminized labor and achieving pay and labor equity in theatre. Feminized labor is the incorporation of womxn in the workplace under conditions inferior to men. We see this in theatre where, regardless of gender, costume workers are consistently paid less than their counterparts. There are many reasons, including that NYC costume shops aren't unionized (as opposed to Broadway scenic, lighting, and sound shops), and that we separate the IATSE union for wardrobe (Local 764) from the union for scenic, lighting, and sound stagehands (Local 1). Despite recent achievements, like reaching pay parity on Broadway and Off-Broadway contracts under the IATSE USA 829 Collective Bargaining Agreement, many areas of costume work still lag behind. This is only reinforced by trends in fast fashion, which cheapen the way costumes and clothing are seen by the public. Resources Mentioned in This Episode: The 2020 Survey Results [https://howlround.com/who-designs-and-directs-lort-theatres-pronoun-2020] Take The New Survey! [https://hipaa.jotform.com/201844208978060] Porsche’s Website [http://www.porschelighting.com/New%20Website/index.html] & Patreon [https://www.patreon.com/porsche] On Our Team [https://onourteam.org/] Articles by Elsa: Inequity By Design [https://howlround.com/inequity-design], A Call for Equal Support in Theatrical Design [https://howlround.com/call-equal-support-theatrical-design] Theatrical Designer Pay Resource [https://elsahiltner.com/theatrical-designer-pay-resource] Can You Sew This For Me? Instagram [https://www.instagram.com/canyousewthisforme/?hl=en] Elsa’s Website [https://elsahiltner.com/] & Patreon [https://www.patreon.com/ElsaHiltner] Costume Professionals for Wage Equity [http://cpfwe.org/] NYT Article on The Flea [https://www.nytimes.com/2020/12/04/theater/flea-theater-the-bats.html] Statement from Resident Artists of The Flea [https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HjU_fVtNFl1CaXZNbMM_aVAa8SNKLN5J/view] Collaborator's Agreement [https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xF7wvLNuDDIy6341BH17_ruBbay22WYu/view?usp=sharing] from Johanna's Recent Show Jessa-Raye’s Website [http://jessarayecourt.com/] Visit our Bookshop [https://bookshop.org/lists/feminized-labor] for reading recs! Support The Show: Donate to Dirty Laundry [https://www.paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=7S94Q8YBJG48S&Z3JncnB0=] Join Our Patreon [https://www.patreon.com/johannapan] Find Us Online: www.dirtylaundrythepodcast.com [https://www.dirtylaundrythepodcast.com/] Instagram [https://www.instagram.com/dirtylaundry.thepodcast/] Facebook [https://www.facebook.com/dirtylaundry.thepodcast] Twitter [https://twitter.com/dirtylaundry_pc] Host: Johanna Pan [https://johannapan.com] Producers: Shayna O'Neill & Johanna Pan [https://hannabi.studio] Music: Jay Ong Audio Engineer: Justin Sabe Click here [https://www.dirtylaundrythepodcast.com/transcript-episode-1] for a transcript of this episode.

"The Inside Dirt on Dirty Laundry" or "Just What Is This, Anyway?" Host Johanna Pan and Producer Shayna O'Neill are here to introduce themselves and the podcast! Find out what to expect from Dirty Laundry's upcoming episodes. Support The Show: Donate to Dirty Laundry [https://www.paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=7S94Q8YBJG48S&Z3JncnB0=] Join Our Patreon [https://www.patreon.com/johannapan] Find Us Online: https://www.dirtylaundrythepodcast.com [https://www.dirtylaundrythepodcast.com] Instagram [https://www.instagram.com/dirtylaundry.thepodcast/] Facebook [https://www.facebook.com/dirtylaundry.thepodcast] Twitter [https://twitter.com/dirtylaundry_pc] Host: Johanna Pan [https://johannapan.com/] Producers: Shayna O'Neill & Johanna Pan [https://hannabi.studio/] Music: Jay Ong Audio Engineer: Justin Sabe Click here [https://www.dirtylaundrythepodcast.com/transcript-minisode] for a transcript of this podcast.