Out On The Ocean
Friday Harbor is as beautiful as you might imagine - a small, saltwater town on San Juan Island on the north west edge of Washington State. If you head out there on the weekend, north from Seattle, up Interstate 5 to the ferry that leaves from the once thriving cannery and oil town of Anacortes, Friday Harbour can feel like a safe haven from the week just gone by. Some folks think it's a bit too cutesy, a chocolate box version of a Pacific NorthWest town - and truth be told it does have a bit of that about it. It's well kept, tidy, there's a little picture house and the timber buildings are all neat and painted. You can buy hemp products and souvernirs and paintings by local artists; small batch ales with names like Weed Whacker that smell of pine and coffee; you can get timber from the hardware store and boating shoes and life vests and corkscrews; and you can fuel up your outboard at the depot a little bit out of town. Out off the high west side of the island you can watch the orcas pass as the lights from BC flicker across the water; even in such a comfortable and cosy place there's a sense of a bigger world beyond. And even in such a comfortable and cosy place you know that out in the wooded gullies and crannies there's some folks doing it hard. 'The Colonel' lives out there in his airstream that sits up on breeze blocks. He rents off a guy named Clay who comes by once a week to collect the rent, which he mostly forgets, being there more for the talk and the smoke and to check in on the Colonel. Brings him a twelve pack of Pepsi, because the Colonel is sober; and he tells him the news. The Colonel doesn't go to town any more much, and never goes to Seattle. His Delia got cancer twelve years ago and once a week every week they'd drive out of the woods, onto the ferry, through Anacortes and down I-5 to the city for her treatment. In their Chevy Impala with the bench seat in the front so she could lie down all the way home while steering one handed with the deadly cigarette between his middle finger and forefinger, blowing his smoke out the window, right hand resting ever so softly on the side of her head, stroking her hair. Once on the ferry he'd slide quietly out as they reversed into the deeper water by Anacortes dock and walk the decks. An hour, two hours, walking around and around as they traveled west and her sleeping uneasy down below. Dolphins, cormorants, seals, orcas, gulls. After she'd died - not passed on says the Colonel, not lost - died - he sat in the ferry queue as usual that first Tuesday morning after, and then when the people around him started driving down the ramp he never moved... let them drive around him. Joe tapped on his roof, 'Colonel, you wanna go today?' He just shook his head, drove to the bottom of the lot, took a left and headed back up through town without stopping. Got back home, sat in the car all day outside their shingle house, with the engine off, smoking. And he slept there too. Woke at five the next morning and knew he'd never ride that ferry again in his life if he could help it. Delia's twelve years dead now, he's twenty years sober. Getting ready for the collapse of the government, invasion by the government, drinking his coffee from a Seattle SuperSonics mug in the woods, in the morning mist, droplets of mist forming on his beard. There's blackberry pickers out that way too, and weed growers, and weed smokers; dodgy attornies and honest ones, beauticians, ancient hippies, bad comedians and half decent hand-to-mouth authors. Soft drink millionaires who fly in by private jet from California to Friday Harbor. And the rest of us who amble in on a Washington State ferry.
11 episodios
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