Style With Substance

At The Vendeur we work with a lot of small sustainable brands and we truly believe that they are the future for a more sustainable world. However, it’s not easy owning a brand. And this year, a pandemic and world wide lock down made it even harder! So I thought it was appropriate to speak to someone who knows about building and sustaining brands. She's done it herself and now she helps other people to realise their dreams. Sustainable Fashion Accelerator Shannon Lohr is the Founder of {r}evolution Apparel and her experience inspired her to go on to start Factory 45 [https://factory45.co/], an online accelerator programme for sustainable and ethical brands. We talk about a few of their success stories like capsule brand Vetta [https://www.vettacapsule.com/] and size inclusive label Poppy Row [https://www.poppyrow.com/]. This episode isn’t just for brands or aspiring entrepreneurs, it’s also a handy inside look for consumers as to what a sustainable brand goes through to bring you a product and why they make the decisions they do. The Importance of Transparent Fashion Shannon believes that there is no such thing as perfectly sustainable. She’s a big fan of ‘progress over perfection’. Which is why it’s so important to have honest and open communication when marketing your brand. If your products aren’t as sustainable as you would like, tell your customer. Explain to them how you are working to make your product better and include them in the development. While I have Shannon, I ask her the ugly question. Why are you helping brands create more stuff? And so far she's the first person to give me a credible answer. Thank you to our fabulous guest, Shannon Lohr of Factory 45 [https://factory45.co/] Mentioned In The Episode Alumni stories on Factory 45 [https://factory45.co/alumni-stories] Market 45 [https://market45.co/] Fashion Revolutions 2020 Fashion Transparency Index [https://www.fashionrevolution.org/about/transparency/] Earth Overshoot Day [https://www.overshootday.org/] Organic Cotton - Organic September With Soil Association [https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/style-with-substance/id1508016999] The SociétéGroup [https://www.facebook.com/groups/thesocietebythevendeur] More Information About The Société [lucy@thevendeur.co.uk] Please Support The Vendeur [https://thevendeur.co.uk/] & J [http://thevendeur.co.uk/contact-us/]oin Our Community [http://thevendeur.co.uk/contact-us/] * Instagram [https://www.instagram.com/vendeurfashion/] * Facebook [https://www.facebook.com/vendeurfashion] * Pinterest [https://twitter.com/TheVendeur] Series Credits Host Lucy Kebbell [https://www.instagram.com/lucykebbell/] Theme created by Joe Murgatroyd [https://www.joemurgatroyd.com/]

Diamonds Are A Girls Best Friend While diamonds are usually seen on women, the diamond industry itself has been traditionally male dominated. From the mines to the heads of large jewellery houses like Graff and De Beers. Its a topic we spoke about in more detail in episode 5 with Jewellery designer Maryline Kekeli [https://style-with-substance.simplecast.com/episodes/how-to-support-black-owned-businesses-with-marilyne-kekeli-of-mamater]. However this has been changing gradually over the last few years as natural diamond companies emerge as models for sustainable practises and gender equality. The diamond industry supports the livelihood of roughly 10 million people worldwide so it’s important that this community is supported. Thats where the Natural Diamond Council [https://www.naturaldiamonds.com/council/] comes in. They provide insights and transparency for the diamond industry, promoting sustainability and ethics. The NDC works directly with diamond companies and mines to educate and encourage them to build on important areas of ecology, human rights and gender parity. One example of positive transformation is Botswana, now the second largest diamond producer in the world. Gender Parity In Diamond Mining Excitingly women are rising to the top of diamond businesses and taking important roles in decision making. Women represent 30% of the workforce of the worlds largest diamond producers. More and more women are being bought  into highly skilled but traditionally male dominated roles. This includes women in upper management, arguably the most key change of all. Because when diverse voices (both in gender and race) are heard at the top of companies, positive change follows. Naseem Lahri was recently appointed Managing Director of Lacura Botswana [https://www.nationaljeweler.com/diamonds-gems/supply/6583-lucara-names-naseem-lahri-its-botswana-managing-director]. In this episode Lucy speaks to Raluca Anghel Head of External Affairs at the Natural Diamond Council. They talk about incredible grass roots initiatives that are being built, about gender parity throughout the industry and the exciting environmental schemes that are being pioneered. With thanks to the wonderful Raluca Anghel from Natural Diamond Council [https://www.naturaldiamonds.com/council/] Special thanks to Nafisa Boateng & Amie Tran Mentioned in the episode Maryline Kekeli - How To support Black Owned Businesses [https://style-with-substance.simplecast.com/episodes/how-to-support-black-owned-businesses-with-marilyne-kekeli-of-mamater] Nassem Lahri [https://lucaradiamond.com/operations/karowe-mine/management-team/naseem-lahri/] Livia Firth on Fashionscapes: The Diamonds of Botswana [https://www.naturaldiamonds.com/inside-diamond-world/livia-firth-fashionscapes-diamonds-botswana/] De Beers Mineral Carbonation [https://www.debeersgroup.com/media/company-news/2019/carbon-capture-project-receives-research-funding] Please Support The Vendeur [https://thevendeur.co.uk/] & J [http://thevendeur.co.uk/contact-us/]oin Our Community [http://thevendeur.co.uk/contact-us/] * Instagram [https://www.instagram.com/vendeurfashion/] * Facebook [https://www.facebook.com/vendeurfashion] * Pinterest [https://twitter.com/TheVendeur] Series Credits Host Lucy Kebbell [https://www.instagram.com/lucykebbell/] Theme created by Joe Murgatroyd [https://www.joemurgatroyd.com/]

The Future Beyond Single Use Plastics In this episode we’re moving away from fashion, but only temporarily to talk to Isabel Aagaard, Co Founder of LastObject [https://lastobject.com/]. The day we recorded this episode it was a happy accident that it was also the day that the UK banned the production and sale of plastic cotton buds, straws and stirrers. So without access to single use items like cotton buds, what do we do? Well Isabel and her team came up with the perfect reusable solution, the LastSwab. A reusable silicone swab that can be washed and used again. That was in 2019. Their aim was to eliminate 1.5billion swabs that are produced everyday. Designing For A Sustainable World LastObject are purposely choosing the smallest objects that you wouldn’t give a second thought to and reimagining their use. From cotton buds, to packets of tissues and now cotton rounds, the company is not only seeking to change your consumption, but also your habits. Isabel and her team delight in problem solving. They create incredibly considered designs for real life. With one intention, eliminating single use items and plastics. We talk about the lifecycle of single use products and how much of an impact they make before you use them once then throw them away. And how little changes can make a huge difference. After we recorded this conversation, I got an email from Last Object announcing that their LastRound kickstarter campaign had achieved 3000% funding. This goes to show that people do want a reusable alternative to the things we buy and discard every day. With thanks to our amazing guest, Isabel Aagaard, Co Founder of LastObject [https://lastobject.com/] Special thanks to Kathleen of Be Influential PR [https://www.beinfluentialpr.com/about] Mentioned in Episode LastRound Kickstarter [https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/193289139/lastround-the-reusable-cotton-round] Reusable Nappies [https://www.sustainablelifestyleawards.com/post/recommendations-for-conscious-mums-with-lucy-kebbell] Who Gives a Crap [https://uk.whogivesacrap.org/] Support Garment Workers With Sophie Slater of Birdsong - Style With Substance [https://style-with-substance.simplecast.com/episodes/support-garment-workers-with-birdsong] Please Support The Vendeur [https://thevendeur.co.uk/] & J [http://thevendeur.co.uk/contact-us/]oin Our Community [http://thevendeur.co.uk/contact-us/] * Instagram [https://www.instagram.com/vendeurfashion/] * Facebook [https://www.facebook.com/vendeurfashion] * Pinterest [https://twitter.com/TheVendeur] Series Credits Host Lucy Kebbell [https://www.instagram.com/lucykebbell/] Theme created by Joe Murgatroyd [https://www.joemurgatroyd.com/]

Sexism and Garment Workers We hope you enjoyed last week’s chat with Natasha at Akojo Market [https://style-with-substance.simplecast.com/episodes/championing-african-brands-in-a-western-market-with-akojo-market]. We discussed the valuable role that can be played in lifting up African Artisans and makers in order for them to grow their businesses. This weeks episode is in a similar vein but we’re a bit closer to home. In 2019 the UK fashion industry was estimated to be worth £118 billion [https://www.spglobal.com/marketintelligence/en/news-insights/latest-news-headlines/uk-fashion-industry-revenue-could-drop-25-in-2020-due-to-pandemic-impact-59455548]. However it takes a major Fashion CEO just 4 days to earn what a female garment worker in Bangladesh will earn in her entire lifetime. So it’s clear that a huge gap in wealth exists in the industry but why is this. Women, specifically women of colour make up 80% of the garment maker workforce. So it’s safe to say that sexism and racism play key roles in reducing the value of the work done. Even though the work is highly skilled and technical, I couldn’t sew a hem to save my life and yet so many of us look down our noses at people who make our clothes. A Blueprint For Future Fashion Businesses This week we're speaking to Sophie Slater, the co Founder of Birdsong [https://birdsong.london/]. The brand is widely recognised as being a pioneer in the social impact and sustainability spaces. 90% of women's organisations in London have had funding cuts since 2010. Birdsong work specifically with these charities, supporting the incredible makers and skilled artisans that exist in the UK. The brand aims to create a blueprint for a more localised, sustainable and fair fashion industry. It’s the very definition of slow fashion. The charities and organisations that Birdsong work with [https://birdsong.london/pages/makers] have said that through their partnership they feel less vulnerable to funding cuts. And we’ve spoken many times about the dangers of the ‘Made in UK’ tag on your clothes somehow negating the need for any work place responsibility on the part of brands. As we found out recently, factories in England are just as guilty of labour rights violations as those in the global South. Lockdown left many garment workers, especially migrant workers open to exploitation. Sophie is incredibly knowledgeable about supply chains in general, but knows her own like the back of her hand. Birdsong is more a community than it is a business. She is truly inspiring and Birdsong is proof that the old misogynistic and colonialist way of doing business is outdated and is not fit for purpose. We hope you enjoy this episode. Please show your support for the podcast by subscribing and leaving us a review, it helps other people to find us. With thanks to our amazing guest Sophie Slater, Co Founder of Birdsong [https://birdsong.london/]. Mentioned in Episode To Die For: Is Fashion Wearing Out The World, by Lucy Siegle [https://www.waterstones.com/book/to-die-for/lucy-siegle/9780007264094] Fashion Revolution’s Fashion Transparency Index featuring H&M [https://www.fashionrevolution.org/about/transparency/] Report by Trust For London [https://www.trustforlondon.org.uk/] Hidden Figures [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hidden_Figures] Inside Misguided: Made In Manchester [https://www.channel4.com/programmes/inside-missguided-made-in-manchester/episode-guide/] In The Style Documentary [https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p07mbvjm/episodes/player] Fixing Fast Fashion by the Environmental Audit Committe [https://publications.parliament.uk/pa/cm201719/cmselect/cmenvaud/1952/report-summary.html]e Please Support The Vendeur [https://thevendeur.co.uk/] & J [http://thevendeur.co.uk/contact-us/]oin Our Community [http://thevendeur.co.uk/contact-us/] * Instagram [https://www.instagram.com/vendeurfashion/] * Facebook [https://www.facebook.com/vendeurfashion] * Pinterest [https://twitter.com/TheVendeur] Series Credits Host Lucy Kebbell [https://www.instagram.com/lucykebbell/] Theme created by Joe Murgatroyd [https://www.joemurgatroyd.com/]

An Online Marketplace With A Difference Natacha Buchler is the Co Founder of Akojo Market, founded in 2019 with Annie Rudnick. Akojo Market [https://akojomarket.com/] is an E-commerce platform championing independent and ethical brands across Africa and the diaspora. It acts as a tech enabler, providing direct routes to market for brands and makers, bridging the gap between designers and a possible customer base in the West. Since launching last year, they now have 40 brands on the platform ranging from fashion and jewellery to homewares and beauty. Natasha and Annie are passionate about creating a unique retail experience. They are passing the mic to incredible brands, rooted in sustainability and ethics. Brands that are merely lacking a springboard to new customers. It’s all about the stories and the makers. Building Awareness of African Design and Craftmanship Natasha makes it clear that this isn’t about appropriation, the brands are very much in control. Instead it’s about building an awareness and appreciation of people who live a fundamentally sustainable lifestyle.  However they have been forced away from this natural path because of a Western appetite for fast fashion and disregard for waste. Akojo Market places a huge  importance on financial independence too. Their innovative impact tracker [https://akojomarket.com/about-us/] shows us that it’s not just a worker who benefits from fair pay and working conditions, but their many dependents too. Colonialism and Western style capitalism took agency away from these people, Akojo Market are putting it back in their hands. With thanks to Natasha Buchler of Akojo Market [https://akojomarket.com/] Mentioned The Root Podcast [https://consciouschatter.com/podcast/2020/10/20-s04-episode-210-the-root-6-the-new-standard] Dominique Drakeford [https://www.dominiquedrakeford.com/] Please Support The Vendeur [https://thevendeur.co.uk/] & J [http://thevendeur.co.uk/contact-us/]oin Our Community [http://thevendeur.co.uk/contact-us/] * Instagram [https://www.instagram.com/vendeurfashion/] * Facebook [https://www.facebook.com/vendeurfashion] * Pinterest [https://twitter.com/TheVendeur] Series Credits Host Lucy Kebbell [https://www.instagram.com/lucykebbell/] Theme created by Joe Murgatroyd [https://www.joemurgatroyd.com/]