Why Canada Lacks a Designer-Led Footwear Ecosystem

Allison Dunne on Clothing as Essay

Allison Dunne has emerged as one of the more conceptually rigorous voices within Canada’s emerging fashion landscape, developing a practice that resists conventional expectations of what clothing is meant to do. Working out of Vancouver under her label Dunne Cliff, she approaches garments not as finished products, but as ongoing discourse—what she describes as “clothing as essay.” Over the past three years, Dunne has built a body of work defined by hand-made production and narrative construction, drawing from her upbringing in rural British Columbia while interrogating broader tensions between craft and mechanization, history and technological progress. Her collections often sit in deliberate irresolution, favouring questions over conclusions and positioning fashion as a medium for critique rather than consumption. This approach has taken shape across seasonal presentations at Vancouver Fashion Week and Fashion Art Toronto, culminating in her recent debut [https://copper-lanternfish-68dk.squarespace.com/collections/dunne-cliff-fw26] at London Fashion Week through Global Fashion Collective. There, Dunne expanded her practice beyond garment into performance—using ritual, repetition and object-based storytelling to explore ideas of obsolescence, labour and human value within increasingly automated systems. In this episode of The Vainqueur Podcast, Dunne reflects on the formation of her design philosophy, the role of the runway as a site of discourse, and how a practice rooted in craft can operate within—and push against—the structures of a global fashion industry. KEY INSIGHTS * Dunne frames “clothing as essay” as a method of design rather than a metaphor. Garments are constructed through tension—balancing opposing ideas, materials and narratives—mirroring the structure of written argument rather than traditional fashion development. * The Dunne Cliff origin is deeply tied to rural British Columbia, where childhood experiences of craft, storytelling and communal play continue to inform her work. This grounding challenges the assumption that conceptual fashion must emerge from global fashion capitals. * Her exploration of the Luddite movement and contemporary technology reflects a broader concern around creative dependency. Rather than rejecting innovation outright, Dunne questions what is lost when human discipline, storytelling and craft are no longer required in the making process. * Recognition from institutions such as the Canadian Arts and Fashion Awards and the Nancy Mak Award signals a growing openness within Canada’s fashion system to conceptual and discourse-driven practices, even within a predominantly retail-focused market. EPISODE CHAPTERS 00:00 — Introduction 01:14 — Storytelling Origins 06:55 — Clothing as Essay 12:03 — Ambiguity and Interpretation 17:10 — Craft vs Technology 20:05 — AI and Creative Discipline ADDITIONAL RESOURCES: Dunne Cliff on VQ Runway - https://www.vainqueurmag.ca/collections/dunne-cliff Dunne Cliff Fall/Winter 2026 at London Fashion Week - https://www.vainqueurmag.ca/collections/dunne-cliff-fw26 ---------------------------------------- Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy [https://acast.com/privacy] for more information.

Inside Première Vision’s Move to Montréal

Première Vision’s return to Montréal marks a significant recalibration in how fashion’s global supply chain is evolving. As brands face increasing pressure to move faster, source smarter, and operate with greater proximity, the role of regional hubs like Montréal between Europe and North America is beginning to shift. For decades, Canada has largely operated within an import-driven model, with design and retail anchored domestically while production moved offshore. Unlike Europe’s integrated manufacturing ecosystems, Canadian designers have historically navigated fragmented supply chains, limited access to materials, and a lack of centralized infrastructure. In this episode of The Vainqueur Podcast, Thierry Langlais, Vice President of Operations at Première Vision North America, discusses why Montréal has become a strategic point of focus, early trade show signals [https://copper-lanternfish-68dk.squarespace.com/article/premiere-vision-montreal-2026-trade-show] and what the platform’s long-term presence signals for manufacturing, sourcing, and the future of Canada’s role within the global fashion system. KEY INSIGHTS * Première Vision’s Montréal expansion reflects a shift toward localized sourcing as Canadian demand becomes too significant to serve externally. * Trade shows are evolving into production-driven marketplaces, with manufacturing playing an increasingly central role. * Verticality is reshaping the supply chain, as brands prioritize integrated partners to reduce time-to-market. * Montréal is emerging as a strategic intermediary between global production networks and North American consumption. * EPISODE CHAPTERS 00:00:00 — Introduction 00:01:50 — Première Vision Overview 00:03:09 — Physical Sourcing 00:04:18 — Verticality 00:06:53 — Why Montréal 00:09:30 — Canada’s Role 00:11:36 — Trade Show Shift 00:12:37 — Closing ADDITIONAL RESOURCES Première Vision Montréal 2026: Early Trade Show Signals — Vainqueur https://www.vainqueurmag.ca/article/premiere-vision-montreal-2026-trade-show [https://www.vainqueurmag.ca/article/premiere-vision-montreal-2026-trade-show] ---------------------------------------- Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy [https://acast.com/privacy] for more information.

Why Canada Lacks a Designer-Led Footwear Ecosystem

Canada’s footwear economy was never built around designers, it was built around importing. In Episode 002 of The Vainqueur Podcast, we examine why a country globally associated with winter boots has never developed a true designer-led footwear ecosystem and what it would take to change that. The episode begins with Montréal-based footwear designer Niki Jessup, who outlines the infrastructure gaps facing Canadian footwear today. From the disappearance of footwear education programs to the near absence of leather tanneries and component suppliers, Jessup describes an industry where designers must operate as startups sourcing materials abroad, importing lasts, and navigating technical production without a local system to support them. The conversation then turns to Elizabeth Semmelhack, Director and Senior Curator at the Bata Shoe Museum, to trace the deeper historical roots of Canada’s footwear economy. From colonization and early trade routes to offshoring and global-scale manufacturing, Semmelhack explains how Canada developed as a footwear market first, relying on imports rather than cultivating a domestic production culture. Together, the discussions reveal how white-label retail models, fast-fashion consumer habits, and price-point expectations have reinforced offshore manufacturing even amid renewed “Made in Canada” rhetoric. The episode also explores whether new technologies such as virtual prototyping, 3D printing and small-scale in-region manufacturing labs could offer a different path forward. KEY INSIGHTS * Canada’s footwear sector developed around importing and distribution rather than designer-led production. * The absence of local infrastructure — from education to leather tanneries to component suppliers — makes it difficult for designers to build footwear businesses domestically. * Fast fashion price expectations and offshore scale manufacturing have reinforced white-label retail models. * New technologies such as VR prototyping, 3D printing and shared manufacturing labs could offer flexible, small-scale alternatives to traditional offshoring. EPISODE CHAPTERS 00:00:00 — Introduction 00:01:30 — Infrastructure Gaps 00:06:22 — Cultural Value of Craft 00:11:32 — Footwear History in Canada 00:17:42 — Offshoring & Price Point 00:22:30 — Technology & A Way Forward ADDITIONAL RESOURCES MMODE 2025 Gala Signals Quebec Footwear Reset — Vainqueur https://www.vainqueurmag.ca/article/mmode-2025-gala-signals-quebec-footwear-reset [https://www.vainqueurmag.ca/article/mmode-2025-gala-signals-quebec-footwear-reset] ---------------------------------------- Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy [https://acast.com/privacy] for more information.

Markantoine on Rebuilding Montréal’s Fashion Ambition

Markantoine Lynch-Boisvert has spent the past decade quietly reshaping what a Canadian fashion career can look like — one rooted in narrative, community and cultural memory rather than scale alone. In Episode 001 of The Vainqueur Podcast, the MRKNTN founder reflects on the personal experiences, industry setbacks and creative decisions that shaped his resilience — and why recognition from Quebec’s fashion industry reaffirmed a responsibility to build beyond himself. After early training in Montreal and a formative period working in Paris, Lynch-Boisvert returned home with a clearer sense of identity as a Montrealer and a sharper view of the structural gaps facing Canadian fashion. He argues that Montreal’s fashion legitimacy already exists, embedded in Quebec’s industrial and cultural history — from garment manufacturing and leather production to hydroelectric infrastructure and geography — but that cultural modesty continues to limit ambition. Throughout the conversation, Lynch-Boisvert challenges the Quebec expression né pour un petit pain, which encourages restraint and modest aspiration. Instead, he calls for a more self-assured fashion culture — one willing to pursue prestige, scale and international relevance without apology. The episode also examines his Spring/Summer 2026 collection, presented during Semaine Mode de Montréal, which was conceived not as spectacle but as cultural infrastructure. Framed as a communal moment bringing together students, industry figures and collaborators, the show served as a tangible example of what Canadian fashion can achieve when storytelling, production and collective belief align. This episode explores why rebuilding Montreal’s fashion ambition requires both individual resilience and collective confidence — and what it will take for Canadian fashion to stop underselling itself. KEY INSIGHTS * Markantoine Lynch-Boisvert frames resilience as a defining force in his career rather than a byproduct of circumstance. Personal and professional setbacks shaped his approach to fashion, reinforcing his belief that longevity depends on perseverance paired with intention. * He argues that Montreal’s fashion legitimacy already exists through its industrial and cultural history — from garment manufacturing and leather production to hydroelectric infrastructure — but that this foundation is often overlooked. * Lynch-Boisvert challenges the Quebec expression né pour un petit pain, viewing it as a cultural mindset that limits ambition in Canadian fashion. He calls instead for a willingness to pursue prestige and international relevance without apology. * Fashion shows, in his view, function as cultural infrastructure rather than spectacle. His Spring/Summer 2026 presentation was conceived as a communal moment and as a tangible example of what Canadian fashion can achieve when scale, storytelling and collective belief align. EPISODE CHAPTERS 00:00:00 — Introduction 04:30 — Creative Origins 11:45 — Paris to Montréal 18:30 — Resilience Forward 26:15 — Fashion Infrastructure 34:45 — Montréal’s Ambition Additional Resources: * MRKNTN Spring/Summer 2026 Collection — VQ Runway * https://www.vainqueurmag.ca/runway/mrkntn-ss26 [https://www.vainqueurmag.ca/runway/mrkntn-ss26] ---------------------------------------- Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy [https://acast.com/privacy] for more information.

Welcome to The Vainqueur Podcast

The Vainqueur Podcast explores the ideas, decisions, and cultural forces shaping Canada’s fashion, beauty, and creative industries. Hosted by Danica Samuel, Founder and Editor-in-Chief of Vainqueur, the podcast features in-depth conversations with Canada’s designers, founders, executives, creatives, and industry leaders understand­ing how this market is evolving and where it’s headed next. Across each episode, we unpack how Canadian professionals are building brands, navigating growth, responding to global pressures, and defining a distinctly Canadian approach to fashion, beauty, retail, and culture. From emerging voices to established leaders, these conversations go beyond headlines, offering context, strategy, and real-world insight from those shaping the industry from the inside. Whether you work in fashion, beauty, media, retail, or the creative economy or simply want a deeper understanding of Canada’s cultural industries, The Vainqueur Podcast offers a perspective you won’t find elsewhere. Subscribe to Vainqueur Memberships for full access to reporting, runway archives, industry insights, and data-led coverage: https://www.vainqueurmag.ca/subscription [https://www.vainqueurmag.ca/subscription] Podcast listeners receive 25% off an annual Vainqueur Membership. Use code VQPODCAST at checkout. Stay connected through Danica’s Debrief Newsletter, a regular editorial newsletter offering analysis, reflections, and behind-the-scenes context on Canada’s fashion and beauty economy: https://www.linkedin.com/build-relation/newsletter-follow?entityUrn=7350256514810429440 [https://www.linkedin.com/build-relation/newsletter-follow?entityUrn=7350256514810429440] For comments, questions, or guest inquiries, contact: contact@vainquermag.ca ---------------------------------------- Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy [https://acast.com/privacy] for more information.