#38 - Henry Davis

#38 - Henry Davis

Henry Davis is a professional routesetter and coach based in Austin, TX. He coached and set for Team Texas, set for multiple training centers, and is one of the founders of the future climbing gym, The Workshop. On this episode, we talk about route setting, comp climbing, paths to skill development, and much more.

#37 - April AMA

Thanks patrons for the questions this month!  Become a patron: https://www.patreon.com/innerfireclimbing [https://www.patreon.com/innerfireclimbing] 0:01:30 Ethan – Strength and finger training after an outdoor session 0:05:05 Josh – Improving high step ability and hip mobility 0:09:50 Jantina – Utility of off-the-wall balance exercises 0:13:05 Sam – Responsibility in developing climbing areas 0:19:25 Foo – What is “good form”? 0:22:50 Cian – Helmet when bouldering 0:25:20 Matthew – When to go for send attempts 0:31:00 Brian – Brushing ethics 0:36:15 Anthony – Crag dog etiquette

#36 - Karly Rager

Karly Rager is a Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist (CSCS), an AMGA Single Pitch Instructor (SPI), and has over 13 years of climbing experience. Karly is the founder and head coach for Project Direct Coaching. On this episode, we talk about her multi-pitch first ascent in Mexico, her strategies for hard projecting, her coaching focus, and much more.

#35 - Juliana Merighi

Dr. Juliana Merighi is a Doctor of Physical Therapy, a Board Certified Orthopedic Clinical Specialist, and a Board Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist. She offers a pelvic physical therapy and orthopedic physical therapy based in Golden, Colorado and remotely as well. On this episode of the podcast, we cover everything at the intersection of climbing, pregnancy, and pelvic floor health. Citations: https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10831648/ [https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10831648/] (diastasis and core function) https://csep.ca/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/CSEP-PATH_GAQ_PP_Guidelines.pdf [https://csep.ca/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/CSEP-PATH_GAQ_PP_Guidelines.pdf] (questionnaire for return to exercise postpartum) https://journals.lww.com/acsm-msse/abstract/9900/high_load_resistance_training_in_the_first.999.aspx [https://journals.lww.com/acsm-msse/abstract/9900/high_load_resistance_training_in_the_first.999.aspx] (high load resistance training in 1st trimester) https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/40551058/ [https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/40551058/] (elite climbers during pregnancy) https://www.flowstateclimbing.com/ [https://www.flowstateclimbing.com/] (contact me!)

#34 - March AMA

Thanks patrons for the questions this month!  Become a patron: https://www.patreon.com/innerfireclimbing [https://www.patreon.com/innerfireclimbing] 00:01:02 Anthony - Managing fatigue / autoregulation with self-coaching 00:05:49 Josh - Body recomp 00:09:08 Greg - How to progress on the Moonboard 00:11:55 Instagram - Questions about boulder development 00:17:08 Marcel - V10-12 compression demands analysis 00:25:36 Angel - Deadlift alternatives  00:28:25 Jantina - Why don't pros wear helmets? 00:33:31 Cian - Strategies I employed on my bouldering trip with an infant