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That's Not Real Climbing

Podcast by Jinni Xia

English

Sports

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About That's Not Real Climbing

A glimpse into everything behind world of competition climbing.Hear from setters, organizers, athletes, and everyone in between to learn about this fast-growing sport!For further discussion, check out the comp climbing Discord at https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp.

All episodes

64 episodes

episode Meagan + C Lad - SPONSORED belayers?! artwork

Meagan + C Lad - SPONSORED belayers?!

Meagan Knecht and C Lad are both level 5 belayers in the USA who are also helping out with belay training videos for World Climbing. In this episode, we’ll debunk the myth that women can’t belay men or heavier climbers, we’ll learn about the problems with Assisted Braking Device (ABD)requirements in gyms, and of course, we'll talk about how to get into high level belaying and how they became SPONSORED belayers thanks to Trango. Guest links: USA Belay Instagram [https://www.instagram.com/usabelay/] C Lad's Instagram [https://www.instagram.com/_c.lad_/] Meagan's Instagram [https://www.instagram.com/megsknecht/] USA Belay YouTube [https://www.youtube.com/@USABelay] Reference links: Wujiang 2025 Belayer Aiding Climber [https://www.youtube.com/live/MWIG2oPt6xA?si=AG1rS4uvxwyyg2U2&t=5901] Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ [https://madrock.com/] Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com [http://www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com] Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast [https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast] Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp [https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp] Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast [http://www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast] Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:29 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 2:19 - Excitement for Pan-American series 4:21 - Getting into climbing and belaying 14:02 - AUDIENCE Q: Difference between an avg vs elite belayer? 20:26 - Work that allows the flexibility for travel 22:48 - How to get into belaying at a high level 27:43 - Setting the standard for World Climbing 34:36 - ATC vs ABDs in gyms 39:06 - The belayer's unique pivotal role 43:41 - Snugroping? 45:28 - Athlete interactions 48:00 - Dual-belay system 52:44 - Is it too late to become an Olympics belayer? 56:42 - Being sponsored as belayers 1:01:54 - Why is belaying para the best? 1:08:46 - Routesetting that makes belaying harder 1:14:25 - AUDIENCE Q: What's it like to walk up to an Olympian and belay them? 1:16:59 - AUDIENCE Q: Favorite venue to belay at? 1:18:33 - Where to find the beladies and words of wisdom

13 Jul 2026 - 1 h 22 min
episode Max Ayrton - "Alternative" Climbing Moves Are SO In artwork

Max Ayrton - "Alternative" Climbing Moves Are SO In

Max is a World Climbing routesetter from Great Britain who most recently set for the bouldering world series in Bern 2026 and will be setting for Salt Lake in October as well. In this episode, we’ll learn about hold shaping, what happened when the Bern finals boulders got leaked early online, whether world cup routesetters can actually climb the boulders they set, and we’ll hear about his extremely hot take on “alternative” climbing moves...I had no idea that he was the infamous cartwheel boulder setter. Guest links: Max's Instagram [https://www.instagram.com/max_ayrton/] Reference links: Bern Women's M3 [https://www.youtube.com/live/Z2R7bspWSPo?si=i4CV120j8eQKnW-s&t=4468] CWIF Cartwheel Boulder [https://www.youtube.com/live/zxnJExZn71s?si=Syj_hnNu-1ufSKvu&t=3702] Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ [https://madrock.com/] Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com [http://www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com] Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast [https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast] Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp [https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp] Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast [http://www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast] Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:21 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 2:28 - Climbing, competing, setting background 7:00 - World climbing setting levels 10:44 - Bern Finals boulders got leaked 15:24 - AUDIENCE Q: Is it easier setting in a climate-controlled venue? 18:24 - What is the perfect round? 22:02 - AUDIENCE Q: What guidance does world climbing give for setters? 24:19 - Forerunning process 29:26 - Setting "unconventional" moves 34:46 - OMG!! This is the OG cartwheel guy!! 38:00 - The divergence of indoor/comp climbing from outdoors 42:34 - Zones vs tops point change 44:53 - Starting Contact Holds with Alex Waterhouse 52:55 - AUDIENCE Q: What's Alex Waterhouse up to?! 54:26 - AUDIENCE Q: Is there any consideration for the belayer when setting? 59:21 - AUDIENCE Q: Planning vs improvising problems? 1:00:45 - AUDIENCE Q: Will the Christmas Yule log comp be on this year? 1:02:29 - AUDIENCE Q: Favorite member of house 51? 1:03:21 - Words of wisdom and where to find Max

29 Jun 2026 - 1 h 5 min
episode Samuel Richard - New School Climbers are LOCKED IN artwork

Samuel Richard - New School Climbers are LOCKED IN

Sam is an 18 year old French boulderer who just recently won bronze at the 2026 Madrid world climbing series. You may also know him as the youngest person to ever do v17. In this episode, we’ll get insight into the world of new school climbing, how regimented routines and being locked in could push climbing further than ever before, and how he may want to just give up climbing one day. Guest links: Sam’s Youtube [https://www.youtube.com/@Saam.richard] Sam’s Instagram [https://www.instagram.com/saam.richard/] Reference links: Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ [https://madrock.com/] Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com [http://www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com] Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast [https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast] Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp [https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp] Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast [http://www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast] Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:26 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 2:17 - Reflecting on Madrid World Series 6:40 - Can you see results in ISO? 9:31 - Starting climbing at age 2 12:46 - Climbing strengths and weaknesses 16:17 - Fearlessness for new school climbing 22:05 - French team training and powering out 24:30 - French Team Selection 29:36 - Qualis is the most physical round 31:37 - "Sam Richard" as a persona 35:19 - Getting energy from the audience 38:41 - Climbing journal 43:49 - Hot take: outdoor climbing is better than indoor? 51:35 - Youngest person to climb v17? 53:08 - Climbing optimization 57:13 - Quitting climbing for running... 1:01:39 - AUDIENCE Q: How's the transition from youth to senior? 1:05:13 - AUDIENCE Q: How to hype yourself up? 1:07:05 - AUDIENCE Q: How's the bromance between you, Mejdi, and Manu? 1:10:05 - Words of widsom and where to find Sam

15 Jun 2026 - 1 h 11 min
episode Andy McVittie - The Kids are Climbing TOO MUCH! artwork

Andy McVittie - The Kids are Climbing TOO MUCH!

Andy is a climbing PT and this is his second time on the podcast. This time, he’s here with new research to talk about why youth climbers are maybe overdoing it with the climbing training, what early arthritis looks like, and the surprising dangers of outdoor climbing when it comes to competition climbers. Guest links: Website [https://www.processphysiotherapy.co.uk/] Instagram [https://www.instagram.com/process.physio/] Reference links: Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ [https://madrock.com/] Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com [http://www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com] Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast [https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast] Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp [https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp] Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast [http://www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast] Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:05 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 1:45 - Spain trip and watching PCL 4:44 - Getting into climbing and PT 8:00 - Youth getting into competing more? 9:10 - Are youth climber overtraining? 11:28 - Outcome of growth plate fractures 16:43 - Youth Climbers very rarely get injured 21:28 - Youth climbers should not specialize in climbing 32:03 - What does arthritis look like? 37:00 - Is synovitis a sign of future arthritis? 38:55 - Injuries are actually coming from outdoor climbing.... 46:32 - Max Milne's Foot Injury 49:53 - Are injury rates increasing within comp climbers? 52:53 - AUDIENCE Q: Common adult injuries breaking into the comp scene? 59:48 - AUDIENCE Q: Can you even climb with hyper mobility? 1:06:54 - Words of wisdom and where to find Andy

4 May 2026 - 1 h 9 min
episode Emil + Felix Abrahamsson - ANNOUNCING Fantasy Climbing League! artwork

Emil + Felix Abrahamsson - ANNOUNCING Fantasy Climbing League!

You likely know Emil from being one of the OG climbing Youtubers who has also competed in a few world cups for Sweden. With his brother, Felix, they have started a new Fantasy Climbing League platform! In this episode, we’ll learn about how the Fantasy Climbing League works, how they feel about sports gambling in climbing, who their top picks are for their teams, and their predictions for all things competition. Guest links: Fantasy Climbing League Site [https://fantasyclimbingleague.com/] Emil’s Youtube [https://www.youtube.com/@EmilAbrahamsson] Felix’s Instagram [https://www.instagram.com/krimpmonster/] Emil’s Instagram [https://www.instagram.com/emil_abrahamsson_/] Reference links: Boardclimbs App [https://apps.apple.com/se/app/boardclimbs/id6499280509] Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ [https://madrock.com/] Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com [http://www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com] Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast [https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast] Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp [https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp] Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast [http://www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast] Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:21 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 2:01 - Living in Arco 5:22 - Starting climbing and competing 14:26 - Existential AI talk 17:14 - Fantasy Climbing League overview 21:10 - They've never played fantasy sports before!! 22:47 - Drafting strategy 25:37 - Are fantasy leagues gambling-adjacent?? 33:36 - Top picks of the season 42:07 - Are injury comebacks good picks? 45:13 - Janja vs Ai debate 52:26 - Will Tomoa have a downfall?! 1:00:03 - Tomoa v Meichi? 1:02:37 - AUDIENCE Q: What style of comp climbing would change the results the most? 1:10:21 - AUDIENCE Q: What will the future of comp climbing look like? 1:13:38 - AUDIENCE Q: What expectations should a comp beginner have? 1:18:04 - AUDIENCE Q: What's your favorite WoW dungeon? 1:19:05 - Join Fantasy Climbing League ASAP!!!

27 Apr 2026 - 1 h 20 min
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