Beauty by the Beaker

Why Does Isotretinoin Work SO WELL? History and Controversy Behind Accutane - EP 40

40 min · 24. juni 2026
episode Why Does Isotretinoin Work SO WELL? History and Controversy Behind Accutane - EP 40 cover

Description

This week we are diving deep into Accutane, also known as isotretinoin. This is one of the most talked about acne treatments in dermatology. If you’ve ever wondered how Accutane works, why skin can get worse before it gets better, what the purge phase feels like, or whether Accutane is actually safe, this episode breaks it all down in a science-backed, easy-to-understand way. We cover the accidental discovery of Accutane, the history behind isotretinoin, how it targets sebaceous glands and oil production, and why it’s often considered a last-resort treatment for severe or stubborn acne. We also talk about common Accutane side effects like dry skin, dry lips, bloody noses, joint pain, vision changes, and increased breakouts during the purge phase. You’ll also learn about the iPledge system, the required pregnancy prevention program, the controversy around its new rollout, and the reasons dermatologists and patients have criticized it.  We are discussing the real-world experience of going on Accutane, as well as the emotional side of dealing with Acne. We talk about how to decide with a medical professional, how to determine the right time, if ever, to try this stuff out.  Whether you’re researching Accutane for yourself, comparing acne treatments, or just want to understand the science behind one of dermatology’s most effective medications, this episode is for you. Chapters:  00:00 Intro + why Accutane deserves its own episode 02:03 What Accutane is and what it treats 04:17 How acne actually forms 06:10 The history of Accutane 09:10 Early studies and why it worked so well 13:13 How Accutane works 18:03 Getting prescribed Accutane 19:19 Dosage, cumulative dose, and cost 21:19 Pregnancy testing, birth control, and iPledge 25:15 The iPledge controversy and website overhaul 27:47 Common side effects and purge phase 30:47 Long-term effects and benefits 31:22 Microdosing Accutane 32:14 Does acne come back after Accutane? 33:05 Should you be scared of Accutane? 34:37 Acne stigma and confidence 37:39 Final thoughts on trying Accutane 39:06 Outro Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start. Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with sources. Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube! @beautyxbeaker @natbxb @sadiebxb Contact us at info@beautyxbeaker.com Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and Hailey Romero for our branding.

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44 episodes

episode Why Does Isotretinoin Work SO WELL? History and Controversy Behind Accutane - EP 40 artwork

Why Does Isotretinoin Work SO WELL? History and Controversy Behind Accutane - EP 40

This week we are diving deep into Accutane, also known as isotretinoin. This is one of the most talked about acne treatments in dermatology. If you’ve ever wondered how Accutane works, why skin can get worse before it gets better, what the purge phase feels like, or whether Accutane is actually safe, this episode breaks it all down in a science-backed, easy-to-understand way. We cover the accidental discovery of Accutane, the history behind isotretinoin, how it targets sebaceous glands and oil production, and why it’s often considered a last-resort treatment for severe or stubborn acne. We also talk about common Accutane side effects like dry skin, dry lips, bloody noses, joint pain, vision changes, and increased breakouts during the purge phase. You’ll also learn about the iPledge system, the required pregnancy prevention program, the controversy around its new rollout, and the reasons dermatologists and patients have criticized it.  We are discussing the real-world experience of going on Accutane, as well as the emotional side of dealing with Acne. We talk about how to decide with a medical professional, how to determine the right time, if ever, to try this stuff out.  Whether you’re researching Accutane for yourself, comparing acne treatments, or just want to understand the science behind one of dermatology’s most effective medications, this episode is for you. Chapters:  00:00 Intro + why Accutane deserves its own episode 02:03 What Accutane is and what it treats 04:17 How acne actually forms 06:10 The history of Accutane 09:10 Early studies and why it worked so well 13:13 How Accutane works 18:03 Getting prescribed Accutane 19:19 Dosage, cumulative dose, and cost 21:19 Pregnancy testing, birth control, and iPledge 25:15 The iPledge controversy and website overhaul 27:47 Common side effects and purge phase 30:47 Long-term effects and benefits 31:22 Microdosing Accutane 32:14 Does acne come back after Accutane? 33:05 Should you be scared of Accutane? 34:37 Acne stigma and confidence 37:39 Final thoughts on trying Accutane 39:06 Outro Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start. Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with sources. Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube! @beautyxbeaker @natbxb @sadiebxb Contact us at info@beautyxbeaker.com Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and Hailey Romero for our branding.

24. juni 202640 min
episode EVERYTHING You Need To Know Before Using Bemotrizinol | The HOTTEST New Sunscreen Active! - EP 39 artwork

EVERYTHING You Need To Know Before Using Bemotrizinol | The HOTTEST New Sunscreen Active! - EP 39

EMERGENCY SUNSCREEN UPDATE!  The FDA just approved the first UV filter in over 20 years! Join us for breaking news in US sunscreens. This ingredient promises to be the safest and most effective filter the United States Market has ever seen, but what does that actually mean as a consumer?  This week we are telling you EVERYTHING you need to know about Bemotrizinol, BEMT, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (Which is actually still an INCI name, not IUPAC) Tinosorb S, or Parsol SHIELD. Whatever you decide to call it, we are here to break down what it means for the future of your sun protection products.  Plus we are diving into the history of sunscreen regulation, and explaining why this ingredient is brand new in the US, but has been used abroad for almost 20 years. If you’ve ever wondered why American sunscreens feel different from those in Europe or Korea, this episode unpacks the complex history behind US regulations and the science behind a game-changing sunscreen active, BEMT. We are unpacking how this new ingredient offers broader UV protection, reduces skin irritation, and could finally end the white cast nightmare. Whether you’re a skincare fanatic or just tired of greasy feeling skin, you’ll discover how this novel ingredient could make your sunscreen better, lighter, and more effective, and why it’s a symbol of progress in a long-standing regulatory limbo.  Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start. Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with sources. Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube! @beautyxbeaker @natbxb @sadiebxb Contact us at info@beautyxbeaker.com Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and Hailey Romero for our branding. 0:00 Introduction and Episode Overview 2:10 Emergency Sunscreen Update   3:05 Understanding Sunscreen Ingredients  16:33 FDA Approval Process Explained  19:08 Historical Context of Sunscreen Regulation 25:43 Future of Sunscreen in the US 32:58 Conclusion and Social Media Call to Action Sources:  https://www.fda.gov/news-events/press-announcements/fda-expands-sunscreen-options-first-time-20-years [https://www.fda.gov/news-events/press-announcements/fda-expands-sunscreen-options-first-time-20-years] https://www.npr.org/2026/06/13/nx-s1-5856385/sunscreen-skin-protection-bemotrizinol [https://www.npr.org/2026/06/13/nx-s1-5856385/sunscreen-skin-protection-bemotrizinol] https://labmuffin.com/how-do-sunscreens-work-the-science-with-video/ [https://labmuffin.com/how-do-sunscreens-work-the-science-with-video/] https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8682817/ [https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8682817/] https://www.fda.gov/drugs/historical-status-otc-rulemakings/rulemaking-history-otc-sunscreen-drug-products [https://www.fda.gov/drugs/historical-status-otc-rulemakings/rulemaking-history-otc-sunscreen-drug-products] https://www.govinfo.gov/content/pkg/FR-1999-05-21/pdf/99-12853.pdf [https://www.govinfo.gov/content/pkg/FR-1999-05-21/pdf/99-12853.pdf] https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC12332967/ [https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC12332967/] https://thehill.com/policy/healthcare/5922475-bemotrizinol-sunscreen-approval-fda/ [https://thehill.com/policy/healthcare/5922475-bemotrizinol-sunscreen-approval-fda/]

18. juni 202633 min
episode Is Looksmaxxing The Answer To A Bigger Problem? - EP 38 artwork

Is Looksmaxxing The Answer To A Bigger Problem? - EP 38

0:00 - Introduction to Looksmaxxing  Discussion on the concept and its societal implications. 15:18 - A Never Ending Pursuit For Perfection How looksmaxxing has roots in historical beauty practices. 19:06 - Modern Trends and Influences  The role of social media and influencers in popularizing looksmaxxing. 21:35 - Gender Perspectives  Differences in beauty standards and expectations for men and women. 25:14 - Psychological and Social Impacts How looksmaxxing affects self-esteem and social interactions. 28:31 - Ethical Considerations  The dangers and ethical concerns surrounding extreme beauty practices. 29:37 - Conclusion and Personal Reflections  Final thoughts on the future of beauty standards and personal empowerment. This week we are diving into a HOT topic - Looksmaxxing. Most of society can agree that appearance ISN’T everything, but why haven’t we ever been able to move past the importance of our looks? and why are straight men suddenly going to such dangerous lengths to maxximize their appearance? In this provocative episode, we unravel the (not so) surprising parallels between gendered beauty practices and the extreme phenomenon of looksmaxxing among men, from steroid injections to bone smashing. Is this just a new twist on a tale as old as time? Join us in the Science Salon, and discover how the desire for societal acceptance fuels this dangerous trend and why mainstream media, social media, and even medical professionals play a role in pushing these extreme practices. We break down the origins of looks maxxing, revealing how a 2010s niche internet phenomenon has become a mainstream obsession. We explore the impact of black pill ideology, where appearance is seen as the only way to social mobility, and why society's system of beauty standards needs urgent reevaluation. We analyze real examples like Braden Peters, better known as  "Clavicular", the TikTok star injecting steroids and smashing his jaw, and examine how younger generations are risking their health in pursuit of perfection. We are talking about the dangerous extremes like plastic surgery, illegal drugs, and body modifications that are widely normalized in the beauty industry, even if they are inherently reckless.  Beyond the shock factor, this episode challenges you to think about the systemic pressures behind looksmaxxing. Is this merely individual vanity, or are we all complicit in a system that prizes superficial beauty over genuine confidence? We consider how media, societal expectations, and gender stereotypes shape this obsession, and what we can do to foster self-love and confidence outside of appearance. At the end of the day, the non stop pursuit of perfection is in vain. Remember to love each other, and look for ways to help people out. BXB welcomes all, no matter their physical appearance.   Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start. Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with sources. Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube! @beautyxbeaker @natbxb @sadiebxb Contact us at info@beautyxbeaker.com Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and Hailey Romero for our branding. Key Sources:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pvqBPkJIkmc&list=PLV7JqwvL7SSsYciULwVUZuYwXPZybUDHN https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CXKCoFz3WRs&list=PLV7JqwvL7SSsYciULwVUZuYwXPZybUDHN

11. juni 202631 min
episode Can Makeup Be Good For Your Skin? BB Creams, K-Beauty and More! EP 37 artwork

Can Makeup Be Good For Your Skin? BB Creams, K-Beauty and More! EP 37

Is there a line between makeup and skincare? If there is, it's extremely blurry, and understanding the science behind it can change the way you approach your beauty routine. In this eye-opening episode, cosmetic chemists Sadie and Natalie peel back the layers of what truly goes into your favorite complexion products. from BB creams with origins in 1960s Germany to the skin tints that are still very popular today. Discover the surprising history of BB and CC creams and why they’re more than just beauty trends, but a reflection of industry shifts, inclusivity challenges, and innovative formulations. You'll learn about the pigments added to skincare and makeup, the difference between oil-soluble and insoluble colorants, and why each ingredient in a product can impact it’s texture, wearability, and skin benefits. We break down the complex chemistry behind oil-based formulas, explaining why many makeup products are potentially good for skin, despite their ‘call out’ ingredients.  This episode dives deep into currently available products like concealers, skin tints, and SPF makeup. We share real-world reviews and the truths behind marketing claims. Get insights into why shade inclusivity is such a challenge, but why it’s not acceptable to continue to make excuses for it.  Is makeup claiming to treat skin issues just marketing hype? We offer our best practices for layering skincare underneath makeup effectively. Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start. Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with sources. Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube! @beautyxbeaker @natbxb @sadiebxb Contact us at info@beautyxbeaker.com Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and Hailey Romero for our branding. Extra Reading!  https://labmuffin.com/whats-a-cc-cream-and-dd-and-ee/ [https://labmuffin.com/whats-a-cc-cream-and-dd-and-ee/] Flawless: Lessons in Looks and Culture from the K-Beauty Capital - Elise Hue

3. juni 202653 min
episode The Complex World of Color Cosmetics: Outsourcing Secrets Behind Your Favorite Skincare - EP 36 artwork

The Complex World of Color Cosmetics: Outsourcing Secrets Behind Your Favorite Skincare - EP 36

We are unlocking the secret differences between makeup and skincare formulations and discover why most companies excel in one, but not both.  Cosmetic chemists Sadie and Natalie pull back the curtain on how the beauty industry structures its product development, from the complex web of outsourcing to the specialized labs that craft your favorite products. They explore the vast “umbrella” of cosmetics, breaking down why makeup (color cosmetics) require such painstaking precision, and how formulating a lipstick or foundation is a whole different ballgame from creating a serum or night cream. You'll learn about the intricacies of color matching, the high cost of pigments, and our opinion on why darker shades may be less common.  Listen to this episode now and discover:  How the cosmetic industry separates color cosmetics from skincare and why they’re often produced at different facilities The specialized skill sets required to craft liquids, solids, powders, and aerosols, and why not every lab can do it all Why color accuracy in makeup is so critical, and how formulation impacts everything from shade range to product stability The role of active ingredients and how their concentration impacts efficacy, compared to the immediate visual impact of color cosmetics The hidden costs behind pigment selection and why darker shades tend to be more expensive to produce How FDA regulations influence color choices and ingredient options in the US market This episode is perfect for beauty lovers, aspiring formulators, or anyone curious about what goes into the products they use every day. Get a crash course in the science that makes makeup vibrant and skincare effective, and understand why some products are more complex (and costlier) than they appear on the surface. Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start. Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with sources. Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube! @beautyxbeaker @natbxb @sadiebxb Contact us at info@beautyxbeaker.com Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and Hailey Romero for our branding.

27. maj 202641 min