ep. 24 \\ Way Out West Trip to Big Bend National Park
Day 1:
We drove from Wichita Falls to Monahans Sandhills State Park. We spent about 2 hours in the park hiking and sledding down sandhills. This park is very small, and you can rent sleds at the Visitor Center for $6 per sled per day.
They do have camping at this park, but we chose to continue on to Balmorhea State Park. The campgrounds there have been recently renovated, and the facility was amazing. We got there right before dark and took a quick dip in the pool— we had the place all to ourselves! The water stays around 74-76 degrees year-round, so it wasn’t too cold. Be sure to bring towels because, as soon as we got out, it was quite nippy! The park was at full capacity, so plan ahead and book your site before you get there.
Day 2:
We woke up early and headed out to spend time in Marfa before driving into Terlingua. We drove through Fort Davis before getting to Marfa, and we could have easily spent more time there. The Davis Mountains are beautiful, and we plan to make a return trip!
We took our sweet time, with no agenda except checking into our rental. It was a barn with three rooms that we rented out. We met my parents, two siblings, their spouses, and kids there. They each got a room, while I slept in the van with one of the girls. The other two girls slept on the couches in the common room to have more space.
We were able to hike around the property, visit the ghost town, and check out some of the old mine spots. We also enjoyed looking at all the amazing rocks, ocotillo, and cactus.
Day 3:
We decided to wake up early (ish) and get a good breakfast in our bellies before heading into the park. We went to the Chisos Basin portion of Big Bend National Park to hike the Window Trail. It’s about an hour and a half from Terlingua to this part of the park. This trail is a great option for families with small children and adults. There were 7 adults and 9 kids in our group. The 2-year-olds were in backpack carriers, and the others, aged 4 and up, hiked themselves. The trail is about 4.5 miles in total, and it took us around 2 hours to complete. We didn’t rush and took our time, letting the kids climb on rocks along the way. It definitely could be done faster, but we enjoyed a leisurely pace.
After finishing the hike, we all ate lunch and then headed to the Hot Springs, which is about a 45-minute drive (give or take). The last mile or two before you can park is very narrow, and parking is limited, but we got lucky and found spots for all three of our vehicles. The Hot Springs Trail is short and easy. I highly recommend visiting this spot when you’re in Big Bend! The hot springs water stays around 105°F, and it’s a small pool area where you can sit and soak. The Rio Grande runs right next to the hot spring, so it was fun to warm up in the spring and then dip into the chilly river! We spent about an hour there before driving back to Terlingua, which took about an hour. We arrived back at our home away from home around 4:30 PM.
We had planned our meals ahead of time, and all but one were crockpot meals, which worked perfectly since we had a hot meal waiting for us after a long day of hiking.
Day 4:
We decided to hike the Mule Ears Spring Trail, a short, 2-mile trail that’s an easier hike. This trail is in full sun, not in the Chisos with trees, so make sure to wear long sleeves, bring a hat, and apply sunscreen! At the end (or halfway through) this trail, there is a tiny spring of water flowing out of the rocks, surrounded by green ferns. It was beautiful and very surprising, considering the entire hike is through desert cacti and rocks. I highly recommend it!
A few kids were on "breakdown mode" for part of the trail, so it took a bit longer, but we weren’t in a rush. Next, we drove to Santa Elena Canyon, which is an iconic and breathtaking location in the park. The canyon is so grand and beautiful that it’s hard to describe its beauty. The trail is easy, and most of our group completed it. While we were there, we also saw a pack of wild horses grazing near the river, which was pretty cool!
Afterward, we took the highway out of the park to return to Terlingua, but you can also take a “shortcut” down Old Maverick Road, an 11-mile stretch of bumpy dirt roads. Two of the three cars in our group took the dirt road, while my parents, kids, and I drove the longer but smoother highway. We all arrived back at our place within 5-10 minutes of each other, so it wasn’t much of a difference!
Day 5:
Everyone was ready for a more relaxed day since it was our last full day in West Texas. We decided to visit Big Bend Ranch State Park to hike the Closed Canyon Trail. The road from Terlingua the state park is a scenic, beautiful highway that runs alongside the Rio Grande. The Closed Canyon Trail is short, easy, and stunning! You do need to stop at the visitor center to get your permit before entering the park.
We had lunch at the end of the trail in a shady spot before heading back to the house. In the afternoon, half of our group went on another adventure near our property, while the other half went shopping and grabbed a margarita at the Star Light Theatre. We never ate at the Star Light, but here’s a tip: get there early if you want a spot! The line starts forming at 3 PM, and the restaurant opens at 5 PM. The Cantina opens at 4 PM. We tried the frozen prickly pear margaritas, and they were delicious!
We let the kids explore the store, and each of them picked out a souvenir. Then we walked to the Terlingua Cemetery, which turned out to be a very special experience. The kids loved reading the tombstones, and if a grave didn’t have one, they would talk about who it could be and what might have happened to them. It was unexpected but really beautiful to see the empathy and compassion the kids showed for the people there.
I highly recommend getting a map of the Terlingua Ghost Town and exploring the old buildings, school, and church to learn more about this small mining town.
Final Thoughts:
West Texas is vast and wide open, with many miles between towns and not much that’s convenient, so you’ll need to plan ahead. Fuel up whenever you can, especially in Alpine or Marathon, depending on which side of Big Bend you’re entering from. You’ll also want to plan your meals and pack food well. We cooked every breakfast and dinner and brought snacks and sandwiches for lunch while hiking.
Also, bring plenty of water!
I’m sure I left a lot out of this summary of our Far West Texas trip, but the main takeaway is that it’s beautiful. It’s one of the most majestic areas I’ve been to. I love the lack of cell service and the bright, starry skies—so amazing to see! The area has very little light pollution, so be sure to plan to stargaze while you're there. I would love to know if you’ve been or if you plan to go way out west. I’ve designed a new collection around this trip and it will launch late January to early February. Chat soon!
