Isère, France. May, 2021.
(After you have read these introductory paragraphs once, you can skip to the new/old content below. If you are listening, then the time stamp is around the two minute 45 second mark.)
Introduction
The word settled, to me, carries connotations I am keen to avoid. I have never felt settled or, perhaps, I cannot recall a time I felt settled. I do not feel settled now, writing this, and I’ve lived in the same house for three and a half years.
Without even discussing the obvious issues of colonisation, I just don’t feel like I could, or should, settle; better to keep my constituent parts shook up, agitated perhaps, rather than separating and stagnant.
Instead, I feel as though I have been travelling for years, maybe because I have not lived in my ‘home’ nation of Scotland for eight and a half years, perhaps because I know I won’t stay here forever, or maybe because I carry that concept of home in a way which differs from many?
More precisely, I still think of myself as a slow traveller, globally feral [https://alexandermcrow.substack.com/i/143668758/globally].
Recently, I have been revisiting places through the photographs and words I recorded when my feet crossed their soil. This is a way of reminding myself of where I have been, not just in space and time, but in mind, too. It is a wonderful thing, to come out of a low and rediscover myself through words I crafted, through the lens of a camera, when memory has wandered in the fog for too long. Thank you, past me.
When I first started sharing letters with the world in this fashion, six or more [https://alexandermcrow.substack.com/p/the-third-state-of-the-nest-address] years ago, I usually began them with a vignette of where I was, a sort-of travel diary, mixed with nature observation, locking in the setting for the reader, before I spoke of other things—and, by so doing, ensuring that place fed into the whole. It was a useful device, for reader and myself both but, as these letters were sent to so few readers, and now languish archived behind a paywall, I thought it a shame not to share these snippets again.
As such, I am going to share a short series of these sketches, accompanied by a photograph from that time, sent to you in date order.
I shall include the above paragraphs in each of the letters in this series, but I shall also include a link at the very start, so you can skip ahead once you are familiar with the above words. If you are listening and similarly want to skip, then the timestamp you want to navigate to will be in the same place.
Taken without these paragraphs, each is a short read, and I hope you enjoy them.
Isère, France. May, 2021.
Of all the magics I have witnessed, the time of the mountain greening is perhaps that which quickens my heart the most.
The bursting of spring is deliciously fresh, the bee drone of the long hot summer days sensuality itself, the roaring of the stags as the woodlands turn red and gold and yellow and russet thrills without exception, and the deep quiet of the snow-thick winter places the perfect hideaway for serious meditation.
Yet, for each of the four readily-acknowledged seasons, there are many others shoehorned within their boundaries—and, increasingly, those boundaries and dates are themselves stretched and altered.
Winter is not just deep winter, it is first-frost and first-snow, it is the shortest day, and the coldest time, it is when the wolves howl and the skies dance with the magic of the aurora, the sparkle of the stars and galaxies stretching out and out and out, far beyond our time and space. It is full of many things, each a season unto itself, each a moment which is reached, a step on a path winding through our lives.
The mountain greening is a small portion of spring. I have been fortunate to be near mountains in spring on several occasions. Perhaps not as much as I would like, but there are other springs in other places, and I do not have that many years to experience every shift of the earth. Other springs, whether by the coast of Scotland and the changing of the birds and budding of the clifftop and dune flowers, or whether the end of the dry season and the coming of the rains in the tropics, the relief of clear air palpable—they are all wonders of their own.
Watching that creeping line of fresh, bright green moving up a wooded mountainside, however, is something ancient, something primeval—buried within me so very deeply I cannot help but pause and stare, no matter how many times I look. There are days where the sun coaxes the trees to leaf almost before my eyes, another strata unfurling, pushing higher and higher, only to pause with the night, or a colder or overcast day, resting on this plateau, catching a breath in that corrie or below that ridge, before pushing over and beyond and ever up.
Here, in Isère, the mountain greening is well underway, but not yet over. Every morning, as I look out the window at the view of the Vercors Massif to the west, I try and gauge whether the line of trees in leaf is higher than yesterday, whether the yellow tree flowers and catkins on the lower slopes have conquered another elevation, or have decided to camp and recover for a spell. As in Scotland, there are days in which the unfurling is almost visible to the naked eye, and others where nothing moves at all. (The two photos of the same scene below were taken a week apart, on the south shore of Loch Nevis—the Lake of Heaven—in the west of Scotland.)
For me, this is true magic. It is not straightforward, it is not a yes/no response, does not follow a strict timetable or plan. Instead, it is chaos, diverse factors acting upon each tree, each branch and each leaf bud. The whole is a metaphor for the year, for life itself—we cannot fit everything into neat bundles of pre-ordained time: life and death happen, whether we want them to or not.
The mountain greening also reminds me of something I studied back in the mists of time—the concept of refugia, of places in mountain valleys where life continues, no matter how strong the wind, how high the ice beyond. This is where certain tree species hid and waited, biding their time and outlasting the ice age, spreading forth once more across continents, a slow, inexorable march.
Refugia are hope encapsulated. Each refuge an ark of genetic material, each carrying promise of life anew. As I look at the world we live in, how we are failing—or have failed?—to contain great change ahead, I remember these places, every spring a flush of green joy, every leaf a reminder that we have been mislabelling climate change for too long. The idea of global systems failing, of huge swathes of the earth becoming uninhabitable or too dangerous to live in is, of course, too esoteric, too obtuse—it does not engage the individual, or the tribe at large.
Every civilisation before ours has been sure they would continue on and on. Every civilisation has looked at those before their own and deemed them lesser developed, less hardy, surmising their own had fewer chances of failing. Every civilisation has been wrong. Ours is no different.
The real peril of climate change is not to the earth itself—the planet operates at different timescales remember, vast, vast timescales very difficult for the untrained to comprehend—no, the real peril is to humankind.
If we relabel the battle to save the planet as the battle to save our species I suspect more might be done but, honestly, throughout all this, I simply prefer to remember the mountain greening, the refugia—those species which will survive beyond ours. It is a curious sense of hope, one entangled in a web of death and extinction and violent change—but it is hope nevertheless, and that is something joyful.
Well, that turned out a little longer than intended. I had planned on merely sharing the joy of watching the mountain turn green, but my brain decided you should instead hear my wider thought-process. Sometimes this is the way, similarly with my fiction—what I think will be a quick scene turns into something more, something more dense, more chewy...
[EDITOR’S NOTE, May 2026: This particular month marked the point when my briefer vignettes, those I’ve been sharing as my Witness Notes, began to take on a different appearance, longer, more entwined with the world and the events shaping all around us. I toyed with the idea of editing this down, just to include the place- and time-specific, but that felt reductive and a little sad. There was—and is—a reason why I talk about active hope and the great upheaval our species is creating and receiving both. As such, I have left the piece as it was, taking other parts of the same letter (separated by the photos) which followed on with the same theme. There will be other Witness Notes, shorter scenes and observations, but I think I need to share these as they were crafted, with only minor alterations, in order to do the words justice. I hope that they are still of interest.]
It is May, my favourite month of the year, not because it contains my birthday, but because it is the month where new growth and new green consistently gathers pace and pushes the year forward into a burst of life. At least here in the northern hemisphere, of course—I do not forget there are many millions of people for whom May means something different.
Although there are obviously other months with 31 days within them before May in the calendar, this is the first month I see as truly long. I suspect this is because the daylight continues to lengthen (again, up here in the north), and the sun works its magic upon me after the winter and early spring.
The world we live in is at a point of great change. All too often, people assume things will continue along the same path they have in recent history, but recent history is just that, a snapshot in time. Move the scale a little and it is hard not to notice how we as a species are still relatively new. All of civilisation itself has occurred within a tiny timeframe, the portion since the industrial revolution even more microscopic. Yet, it is this portion which is altering our planet at a ridiculously fast rate.
It is easy to place our heads in the sand and ignore the damage, ignore the issues. It is easy to overlook the changes, to simply focus on the day-to-day, the simple acts of making a living, eating, sleeping, rinse and repeat. And this is how you can be controlled, how you can lose a sense of your own individual power.
Some people think about the changes in the world and then give in to despair, they do not see how they can make a difference. It is all too easy to lose hope.
However, remember the refugia? Those small mountain valleys where trees rested, biding their time, to once more spread out across a continent?
I would suggest we all take some time to acknowledge the good things in our lives: good food, the connection we feel to a powerful story, those lateral shifts in our brains when we play a game and, above all, perhaps, that sense of belonging we can achieve through the study of the nature around us.
Take these things and consider yourself a mountain valley, a refuge of one—and reach out, spread your joy at a movie, your delight at identifying a species of fungi for the very first time, or the fact you can vote peacefully and safely in your country. Share it. Show others who may either have their heads buried in the proverbial sand, or may have given in to despair, to ‘I’m one person, what can I do?’; show them, and offer them something powerful.
We are all refugia, we all carry the potential of hope, the potential of joy and rebirth and love. Times are perilous, times are changing—but I wholeheartedly believe we can all make a positive difference, nevertheless.
Finally
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Finally, many thanks for reading. I truly appreciate each and every one of you who does.
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