The Climbing Doctor Podcast

In this conversation, Jared Vagy and Josh Foster discuss meniscal injuries in rock climbers. They explain what a meniscal injury is and how climbers can injure their meniscus. They discuss the signs and symptoms of a meniscal injury and how it is diagnosed and treated. They also outline a rehabilitation plan for meniscal injuries, including exercises to restore range of motion and strengthen the muscles around the knee. They emphasize the importance of proper movement patterns and provide climbing-specific exercises to prevent meniscal injuries in climbers. Joshua Foster's Bio Josh Foster is a Doctor of Physical Therapy with a passion for movement and health, beginning his journey in 2001 when he discovered climbing. He has been deeply embedded in the climbing community for over 20 years, starting as a youth competitor who reached the national level in high school. He spent 12 years setting routes and more than a decade as a youth competitive climbing coach, where he facilitated success for new athletes and national champions. Chapters * 00:00 Introduction * 01:23 What is a meniscal injury and how do climbers get them? * 06:52 Diagnosis and treatment of meniscal injuries * 09:00 Rehabilitation plan for meniscal injuries * 22:47 Movement patterns and climbing-specific exercises * 30:35 Preventing meniscal injuries in climbers Links and Resources for This Episode: * 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/new-knee-pains-for-climbers-how-to-prevent-and-recover-from-meniscus-injury/] * 🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode [https://youtu.be/v-XdNw-8cR8] Social Media and Webpage: * 🕸️Webpage [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/] / 📸 Instagram [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/grid/] /📍Pinterest [https://www.pinterest.com/theclimbingdoctor/] / 📝 Blog Articles [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/grid/]:  Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools * Climb Injury-Free Book [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/product/climb-injury-free-5/] / Self-Help Injury Protocols [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/rock-rehab-protocols/] / Rehab Tools [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/rehab-products/]:  /Brand Partner Discounts [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/brand-partner-discounts/]  Injury Rehab Coures * Courses for Medical Providers  [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/courses/]/ Courses for Coaches [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/climbing-coach-courses/]

In this conversation, Dr. Nick Hedges discusses the importance of the lower body, specifically the ankle, in climbing. He highlights the prevalence of ankle injuries in climbing and the potential consequences of ankle sprains. Dr. Hedges provides self-assessment techniques to determine ankle susceptibility and reduce the risk of injury. He also explains how to test ankle mobility and function, as well as how to tease out the different systems involved in balance. Dr. Hedges offers tips for training and improving balance and provides insights on benchmarking and comparing balance performance. The conversation concludes with a case study of sprained ankles in a climbing gym. This conversation explores the assessment, treatment, and rehabilitation of ankle sprains in rock climbers. The importance of addressing ankle stability and mobility is emphasized, along with the need to determine the severity of an ankle injury. The stages of ankle rehabilitation are discussed, including the unload stage, partial loading stage, initial loading stage, dynamic and plyometric stage, and fear avoidance. The conversation concludes with a reminder to seek professional help if needed and to prioritize ankle health to prevent chronic instability and future injuries. Nicholas Hedges's Bio * Nic Hedges has a Doctorate in Chiropractic as well as a Masters degree in Sport Science and Rehabilitation. Since graduating chiropractic school, Nic has taught anatomy and physiology at Colorado Mountain College. He was also a member of the climbing special interest group, which provided him the opportunity to collaborate with other professionals in a niche sport. He is now the proud owner and operator of Synergy Sports Clinic in Grand Junction, Colorado. When he’s not working in clinic, he can be found climbing in rifle or trail running. Chapters * 00:00 Introduction and Background * 01:30 The Importance of the Lower Body in Climbing * 06:19 The Consequences of Ankle Sprains * 08:02 Self-Assessment for Ankle Susceptibility and Injury Risk Reduction * 11:33 Testing Ankle Mobility and Function * 14:26 Teasing Out the Different Systems Involved in Balance * 21:09 Benchmarking and Comparing Balance Performance * 22:39 Case Study: Sprained Ankles in a Climbing Gym * 22:46 Importance of Assessing and Addressing the Ankle * 27:05 Determining the Severity of an Ankle Injury * 35:30 Stages of Ankle Rehabilitation * 44:05 Closing Thoughts on Ankle Sprains and Rock Climbing Links and Resources for This Episode: * 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/s3-e2-ankle-sprain-rehab-for-rock-climbers-nicholas-hedges] * 🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode [https://youtu.be/aYu1rg9Jk_U] Social Media and Webpage: * 🕸️Webpage [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/] / 📸 Instagram [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/grid/] /📍Pinterest [https://www.pinterest.com/theclimbingdoctor/] / 📝 Blog Articles [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/grid/]:  Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools * Climb Injury-Free Book [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/product/climb-injury-free-5/] / Self-Help Injury Protocols [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/rock-rehab-protocols/] / Rehab Tools [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/rehab-products/]:  /Brand Partner Discounts [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/brand-partner-discounts/]  Injury Rehab Coures * Courses for Medical Providers  [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/courses/]/ Courses for Coaches [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/climbing-coach-courses/]

In this conversation, physical therapist Kimmy Wiley and Jared Vagy discuss TFCC wrist injuries in rock climbers. They cover the definition and location of the TFCC, common symptoms, and tests to diagnose the injury. They also discuss the importance of deloading and modifying climbing movements to avoid aggravating the injury. Kimmy shares her approach to rehab, which includes gradually building mobility and strength in a progressive manner. They emphasize the need for individualized exercises and the importance of pain management during the rehab process. Kimmy Wiley's Bio * Kimmy Wiley is a doctor of physical therapy and owner of Peak Pursuit Performance & Rehab- an online physical therapy and strength and conditioning service for outdoor athletes. While Kimmy has had experience in most physical therapy settings, she has found a passion for sports therapy- specifically for adventure sport athletics. During the winter months Kimmy travels with the U.S. Snowboard Halfpipe Team, helping them stay happy and healthy as they travel the world for training camps and competitions. When at home in Salt Lake, Kimmy can be found in the Wasatch Mountains climbing, snowboarding, or hiking with her dog, Nomad. Chapters * 00:00 Introduction and Background * 08:41 Rehabilitation Approach * 25:16 Returning to Climbing and Specific Movements * 32:32 Conclusion and Contact Information Links and Resources for This Episode: * 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/tfcc-injury-a-common-source-of-wrist-pain-in-climbers/] * 🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode [https://youtu.be/lGA-8Asoz2w] Social Media and Webpage: * 🕸️Webpage [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/] / 📸 Instagram [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/grid/] /📍Pinterest [https://www.pinterest.com/theclimbingdoctor/] / 📝 Blog Articles [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/grid/]:  Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools * Climb Injury-Free Book [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/product/climb-injury-free-5/] / Self-Help Injury Protocols [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/rock-rehab-protocols/] / Rehab Tools [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/rehab-products/]:  /Brand Partner Discounts [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/brand-partner-discounts/]  Injury Rehab Coures * Courses for Medical Providers  [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/courses/]/ Courses for Coaches [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/climbing-coach-courses/]

This conversation explores the impact of the menstrual cycle on training and climbing performance. The menstrual cycle consists of different phases, including the follicular and luteal phases, each characterized by hormonal changes. During the follicular phase, when estrogen levels are higher, climbers may benefit from intense strength training and challenging climbs. In contrast, the luteal phase, with higher progesterone levels, may be a time for focusing on mobility, technique, and lower-intensity exercises. Understanding these phases can help climbers tailor their training programs and be more forgiving of their performance fluctuations. Coaches and partners can also consider these factors when working with female climbers. Takeaways The menstrual cycle consists of different phases, including the follicular and luteal phases, characterized by hormonal changes. During the follicular phase, climbers may benefit from intense strength training and challenging climbs. The luteal phase may be a time for focusing on mobility, technique, and lower-intensity exercises. Understanding the menstrual cycle can help climbers tailor their training programs and be more forgiving of performance fluctuations.   Katrina Wong's Bio Currently, Katrina is a resident in orthopedics at Kaiser, where she is dedicated to expanding her knowledge and honing her skills. Katrina is slowly building her foundation and working to make positive contributions to both the climbing and physical therapy communities.  Chapters * 00:00 Introduction * 02:12 Understanding the Menstrual Cycle * 04:16 Awareness of Menstrual Cycle Phases * 06:07 Hormones and their Roles * 08:46 Training in the Follicular Phase * 12:09 Effects of the Menstrual Cycle * 19:17 Positive Aspects of the Luteal Phase * 23:17 Training Recommendations for Different Phases * 25:47 Considerations for Coaches and Partners  * 26:33 Personal Variability in Cycle Phases * 28:35 Final Thoughts  Links and Resources for This Episode: * 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/climbing-as-therapy-for-mental-health/] * 🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode [https://youtu.be/Bukxht2326g] Social Media and Webpage: * 🕸️Webpage [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/] / 📸 Instagram [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/grid/] /📍Pinterest [https://www.pinterest.com/theclimbingdoctor/] / 📝 Blog Articles [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/grid/]:  Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools * Climb Injury-Free Book [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/product/climb-injury-free-5/] / Self-Help Injury Protocols [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/rock-rehab-protocols/] / Rehab Tools [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/rehab-products/]:  /Brand Partner Discounts [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/brand-partner-discounts/]  Injury Rehab Coures * Courses for Medical Providers  [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/courses/]/ Courses for Coaches [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/climbing-coach-courses/]

In this conversation, Stacey Castaldo shares her personal experience with concussion and discusses the signs, symptoms, and rehabilitation of concussions in rock climbing. She emphasizes the importance of seeking medical attention and getting screened after a head injury. Stacey also highlights the structured return to climbing protocol and the role of physical therapy exercises in concussion recovery. The key takeaways include wearing a helmet, resting for no more than 48 hours, and seeking professional guidance for rehabilitation. Takeaways Wear a helmet while climbing to reduce the risk of head injuries. Seek medical attention and get screened after a head injury to rule out serious complications. Rest for no more than 48 hours after a concussion, as prolonged rest may slow down recovery. Follow a structured return to climbing protocol, gradually increasing intensity and monitoring symptoms. Engage in aerobic exercise as part of concussion recovery, as it has been shown to be beneficial. Consult with a physical therapist for guidance and exercises to aid in concussion rehabilitation. Chapters * 00:00 Introduction and Background * 01:14 Stacey's Personal Experience with Concussion * 03:00 Signs and Symptoms of Concussion * 08:00 Seeking Medical Attention and Diagnosis * 11:00 Rehabilitation and Return to Climbing * 24:00 Structured Return to Climbing Protocol * 32:00 Physical Therapy Exercises for Concussion Recovery * 38:00 Key Takeaways and Recommendations Stacey's Bio Stacey received her doctorate in physical therapy from California State University in Long Beach. Originally from Palos Verdes, she is a Southern California native and a lifetime athlete. A former competitive gymnast, varsity long distance runner, and avid snowboarder; she found rock climbing 4 years ago and has fallen in love with the sport. She was a member of the Climbing Special Interest Group while in PT school, where she gained valuable experience in learning to treat climbing specific injuries and wrote an article on returning to climbing after concussion after sustaining a concussion herself and struggling to get back on the wall. She currently works in the Orthopedic and Sports setting and has also worked as a Strength and Conditioning coach, and uses her fitness background to help athletes of all ages and levels stay active and doing what they love.  Links and Resources for This Episode: * 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/climb-on-after-a-concussion/] * 🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode [https://youtu.be/Bukxht2326g] Social Media and Webpage: * 🕸️Webpage [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/] / 📸 Instagram [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/grid/] /📍Pinterest [https://www.pinterest.com/theclimbingdoctor/] / 📝 Blog Articles [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/grid/]:  Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools * Climb Injury-Free Book [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/product/climb-injury-free-5/] / Self-Help Injury Protocols [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/rock-rehab-protocols/] / Rehab Tools [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/rehab-products/]:  /Brand Partner Discounts [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/brand-partner-discounts/]  Injury Rehab Coures * Courses for Medical Providers  [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/courses/]/ Courses for Coaches [https://theclimbingdoctor.com/climbing-coach-courses/]