Off Hours

Daniela Marin

Jon [https://twitter.com/undertheloupe] and Chris [https://twitter.com/silver_hand] sit down for a chat with Daniela Marin, co-founder of the original Speake-Marin brand and the driving force behind The Naked Watchmaker [https://www.thenakedwatchmaker.com] as well as their recently released Masterclass [https://the-naked-watchmaker-masterclass.thinkific.com/courses/understanding-watchmaking-an-introduction?ref=1ec0fc]. [http://offhours.show/resources/uploads/2022/01/offhours-ep89.jpg] This episode of Off Hours was made possible in part thanks to the Amazon Associates Program. As a part of the program, the show earns from qualifying purchases when you click on links to Amazon (like this one [https://amzn.to/2GwqacS]) from our show notes. If you enrol in a Naked Watchmaker Watchmaker Masterclass [https://the-naked-watchmaker-masterclass.thinkific.com/courses/understanding-watchmaking-an-introduction?ref=1ec0fc] by following one of the links on this page, the show will earn from qualifying purchases there, as well. Our thanks to Amazon and The Naked Watchmaker for helping to keep Off Hours on the air. Interested in sponsoring a future episode of Off Hours? Get in touch. * TheNakedWatchmaker.com [https://www.thenakedwatchmaker.com] * The Naked Watchmaker Masterclass [https://the-naked-watchmaker-masterclass.thinkific.com/courses/understanding-watchmaking-an-introduction?ref=1ec0fc] Use the coupon code offhours-100$tnw.voucher to receive $100 off * The Naked Watchmaker on LinkedIn [https://www.linkedin.com/in/peter-speake-marin-575238128] * The Naked Watchmaker Facebook Page [https://www.facebook.com/intheinterestoftime/] * The Naked Watchmaker on Instagram [https://www.instagram.com/the_naked_watchmaker/] * The Naked Watchmaker on TikTok [https://www.tiktok.com/@thenakedwatchmaker] * The Naked Watchmaker on Twitter [https://twitter.com/nakedwatch] * Speake-Marin Watches [http://www.speake-marin.com] (no longer affiliated with Daniela Marin or Peter Speake) * Philippe Dufour [https://www.ahci.ch/members/philippe-dufour/] * The BBC [https://www.bbc.com] Where Daniela was working prior to moving to Switzerland * The Grönefeld Brothers [https://www.gronefeld.com] * Stephen Forsey [https://www.greubelforsey.com/en/greubel-forsey/robert-greubel-stephen-forsey/stephen-forsey/] * Audemars Piguet (Renaud et Papi) SA [https://www.fhs.swiss/eng/2003-10-09_265.html] A 2003 press release detailing the expansion of APRP’s facilities, around the same time that the Speake-Marin brand was getting started * Andreas Strehler [https://astrehler.ch] * Stepan Sarpaneva [https://www.sarpanevawatches.com/watchmaker/] * The McGonigle Brothers [https://www.mcgonigle.ch] * Kari Voutilainen [https://www.voutilainen.ch] * WOSTEP [http://www.wostep.ch] Watchmakers of Switzerland Training & Education Program * Pentti Sarpaneva [https://www.britishmuseum.org/collection/term/AUTH232324] Famed jewellery designer & Stepan Sarpaneva’s father * Vianney Halter [https://www.vianney-halter.com] * François Junod [http://www.francoisjunod.com] * Deconstruction of Breguet Tourbillon Pocket Watch 1188 [https://www.thenakedwatchmaker.com/decon-breguet-toubillon-1188] Among the earliest tourbillon watches ever produced * Deconstruction of Philippe Dufour’s Simplicity [https://www.thenakedwatchmaker.com/deconstruction-philippe-dufour] * Deconstruction of Breguet Tradition Tourbillon Fusée 7047 [https://www.thenakedwatchmaker.com/decon-breguet7047] The modern Breguet Daniela would like to own one day * Speidel Twist-O-Flex [https://amzn.to/3qQESPa] An expanding metal watch bracelet, like the one on the watch Daniela purchased for her mother * Schwartz Étienne [https://www.schwarz-etienne.ch/en/home/] * Czapek & Cie [https://czapek.com] * AHCI [https://www.ahci.ch] Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants * Urwerk [https://www.urwerk.com] * Felix Baumgartner [https://www.urwerk.com/story] * Pita Barcelona [https://www.pita.es] * Robert Bray [https://www.ahci.ch/members/robert-bray/] * Piaget [https://www.piaget.com] * Seiko [https://www.seikowatches.com] * COSC [https://www.cosc.swiss/en] The official chronometer certification body in Switzerland * Kees Engelbarts [https://www.thenakedwatchmaker.com/land-kees-engelbarts] * Rebecca Struthers [https://www.strutherswatchmakers.co.uk/about] * Oster Watches Podcast [https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/keeping-time-s5-e07-daniela-marin-and-peter-speake/id1106061729?i=1000543174289] Daniela Marin & Peter Speake’s discussion about their new Masterclass with Jeremy Oster The Naked Watchmaker Masterclass [https://the-naked-watchmaker-masterclass.thinkific.com/courses/understanding-watchmaking-an-introduction?ref=1ec0fc] Off Hours listeners can receive $100 off of a Naked Watchmaker Masterclass using the following coupon code: offhours-100$tnw.voucher [http://offhours.show/resources/uploads/2022/01/offhours-ep89.jpg]

Quintessential Bellows

Jon [https://twitter.com/undertheloupe] and Chris [https://twitter.com/silver_hand] discuss the future of filmmaking, the transmission of know-how, and ornamental turning. Interested in sponsoring a future episode of Off Hours? Get in touch. This episode of Off Hours was made possible in part thanks to the Amazon Associates Program. As a part of the program, the show earns from qualifying purchases when you click on links to Amazon (like this one [https://amzn.to/2GwqacS]) from our show notes. * White 2.0 [https://culturehustle.com/products/white-2-0-beta] An extremely white paint, from Stuart Semple * Pink Potion [https://culturehustle.com/products/neon-pink-potion-high-grade-professional-acrylic-paint-by-stuart-semple-100ml] To pink what White 2.0 is to white * LIT [https://culturehustle.com/products/blue-lit-the-worlds-glowiest-glow-pigment-100-pure-lit-powder-in-blue-by-stuart-semple] Glowing pigment from Stuart Semple [http://offhours.show/resources/uploads/2021/09/bellows.jpg]Chris’ new bellows * The Best Bargain in Macro Photography [https://www.allanwallsphotography.com/blog/2018/9/10/nikon-pb-6-bellows-the-best-bargain-in-macro-photography-equipment-ever] A look at the humble bellows * Allan Walls Photography [https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC3N1BvkmnYWqa3SSthhzReA] Allan has done some fantastic work using a bellows * Tilt-shift Photography [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tilt–shift_photography] * Powered Rails for Macro Photography [https://cognisys-inc.com/stackshot-macro-rail-package.html] * The Future of Filmmaking? [https://youtu.be/M-AV-bctI1o] Film Riot delves into Unreal Engine * The Mandalorian [https://disneyplusoriginals.disney.com/show/the-mandalorian] * Unreal Engine [https://www.unrealengine.com] * Robert Rodriguez [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Robert_Rodriguez] Independent filmmaker * Black Magic Design [https://www.blackmagicdesign.com/ca/products] * DaVinci Resolve [https://www.blackmagicdesign.com/products/davinciresolve/] Non-linear video-editing software * Inside Voutilainen’s Atelier [https://www.swissinfo.ch/eng/business/kari-voutilainen---the-master-watchmaker-who-came-from-the-north/46918446] with SwissInfo * Kari Voutilainen [http://www.voutilainen.ch] * Comblémine [https://comblemine.ch] Voutilainen’s dial manufacturer * Voutilainen & Cattin [http://www.voutilainen-cattin.ch] Voutilainen’s case manufacturer * Reuben Schoots [https://www.youtube.com/c/ReubenSchoots] * Tommy Jobson [https://www.youtube.com/c/TommyJobson] * James Palmer [https://www.youtube.com/c/JPPalmer] * Philippe Dufour [http://dufourwatches.free.fr] * Greubel Forsey [https://www.greubelforsey.com] * Bradley Taylor [https://www.bradleytaylor.ca] * Watches TV [https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCj3See1FxZIe9xkZx5oBNcQ] * Naked Watchmaker Masterclass [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rjv4pR2rFQk] * MADE Lathe Rose Engine Presentation [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5W_vTLKnO98] By David Lindow * OTI [http://ornamentalturners.com] Ornamental Turners International * Society of Ornamental Turners * Plumier Foundation [https://plumier.org] * Holtzapffel [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Holtzapffel] * Chris Ploof [https://chrisploof.com] * L.A. Pen Show [http://www.lainternationalpenshow.com] * Al Collins [https://www.instagram.com/northwdcabinets/] * Coburg Ivories [https://www.ivoryexperts.com/artists/heiden.html]

Watchmaking Studio in a Box

Having recently rescued some sorely abused collets after acquiring yet another lathe, Chris [https://twitter.com/silver_hand] is now swimming in a sea of collets. He and Jon [https://twitter.com/undertheloupe] discuss various tools, blackest black ink, hyperwhite paint, watch photography, and movement finishing. Interested in sponsoring a future episode of Off Hours? Get in touch. This episode of Off Hours was made possible in part thanks to the Amazon Associates Program. As a part of the program, the show earns from qualifying purchases when you click on links to Amazon (like this one [https://amzn.to/2GwqacS]) from our show notes. * Southbend Lathes [https://www.southbendlathe.com] * Cromwell Lathes [http://www.lathes.co.uk/cromwell/index.html] * Waterjet Cutting Service [https://carleton.ca/stc/waterjet/] at Carleton University * Schaublin 102 [http://anglo-swiss-tools.co.uk/schaublin-102-lathes/] * Cardon Tools [https://cardontools.com] [http://offhours.show/resources/uploads/2021/08/schaublin-102-turret.jpg]https://www.ebay.ca/itm/274366427138An example of a turret for a Schaublin 102 * Schaublin 70 [http://anglo-swiss-tools.co.uk/schaublin-70-lathe/] * Aciera F1 [http://anglo-swiss-tools.co.uk/aciera-f1-milling-machine/] Milling machine that uses the same collets as the Schaublin 70 * Sixis 101 [http://www.lathes.co.uk/sixis/] Another milling machine that shares the same collet system as the Aciera F1 & Schaublin 70 * Hardinge [https://www.hardinge.com/] * Stuart Semple BLINK Ink [https://culturehustle.com/products/blink-black-ink] * Whitest White Paint [https://www.livescience.com/whitest-paint-ever.html] * Watch Photography Using Camera Flashes [https://www.diyphotography.net/what-i-learned-during-quarantine-shooting-watches-with-the-hasselblad-x1d-ii-and-godox-v1-flash/] Some timely, macro photography perspective from GaryG * Aputure Lights [https://www.aputure.com] * Light Tent [https://amzn.to/3y4NhAh] * 100 Ways to Improve Your Photography [https://blog.mingthein.com/2012/08/26/10x10-100-ways-to-improve-your-photography/] by Ming Thein * Ming Watches [https://ming.watch] * Focus Stacking [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Focus_stacking] * Camera Bellows [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bellows_(photography)] * Anglage Work [https://twitter.com/Silver_hand/status/1426640008941916162] A macro video of Chris polishing the chamfer on one of the bridges for the watch movements he has been working on * Sigma 105mm F2.8 Macro Lens [https://amzn.to/3mnbOOy] One of the lenses that Chris has been using to film watch work with * Laowa 24mm f/14 Probe Lens [https://amzn.to/3kefnnM] Another of the lenses Chris has been using to film watch work with * African Blackwood [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dalbergia_melanoxylon] * Gentian [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gentiana] * Ebony [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ebony] * Gold LUXOR Polishing Compound [https://www.merard.com/en/polishing-compounds-and-buffing-mops-wheels/how-to-polish-and-gloss-jewel-gold-silver-platinum-metal/] * Jeweller’s Rouge [https://amzn.to/3sBIZ22] * Chopstick Master [https://bridgecitytools.com/collections/chopstick-master] from Bridge City Tool Works, the jig that Chris has been using to shape wooden laps for polishing the chamfers on the movements he’s been working on * Daniela Dufour [https://www.watchestv.com/videos-watch-news/2021/7/29/interview-with-philippe-dufour] Interviewed alongside her father, Philippe Dufour, on The Watches TV

Over-polished Bevel

Chris [https://twitter.com/silver_hand] and Jon [https://twitter.com/undertheloupe] continue their discussion of finishing techniques, as well as custom tools, and specialized work holding techniques. Interested in sponsoring a future episode of Off Hours? Get in touch. This episode of Off Hours was made possible in part thanks to the Amazon Associates Program. As a part of the program, the show earns from qualifying purchases when you click on links to Amazon (like this one [https://amzn.to/2GwqacS]) from our show notes. * Straight Line Engine Turning [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LBiiDpexmA8] An introduction to the art, by Roger W. Smith * 8mm Watchmaker’s Lathe [http://www.lathes.co.uk/swartchild/] * David Lindow [https://lindowmachineworks.com/our-team/david-lindow/] * A unique & memorable unboxing experience [https://www.instagram.com/p/CRZkZKPLHXN/] * Dr. Rebecca Struthers [https://twitter.com/drstruthers] * Struthers 248 [https://www.strutherswatchmakers.co.uk/watches/project-248] Craig & Rebecca Struthers project to craft a timepiece using two minds, fours hands, & an 8mm watchmaker’s lathe. * Struthers’ Screw Head Polishing Tool [https://twitter.com/DrStruthers/status/1418109032146034692] * KHWCC Screw Head Polishing Tool [http://khwcc.blogspot.com/2011/09/screw-polisher-piece-number-2.html] * Henrik Korpela [https://www.instagram.com/henrikkorpela/?hl=en] Director of the KHWCC * Glendo Accu-Finish [https://accu-finish.com] The lapping machine Chris uses to prepare his cutters for engine turning * BECS Sàrl [https://www.becs.ch] Jon mentioned CNJ Duret in the episode, turns out since he last purchased from them they’ve been acquired by BECS Sarl * Rich Loen [https://loen.design] * LUXOR Polishing Compound [https://www.merard.com/en/polishing-compounds-and-buffing-mops-wheels/how-to-polish-and-gloss-jewel-gold-silver-platinum-metal/] * Jeweler’s Rouge [https://amzn.to/3C5kwGD] * “Metal is fibres.” [https://www.europastar.com/e-zine/1004092956-report-5-master-watchmakers.html#/5] Denis Flageollet, of De Bethune, interviewed in the latest issue of Europastar Magazine * 904L Stainless Steel [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OWSKyGRKHYA] A video detailing an alloy Rolex now refers to as Oystersteel * Manufactor S.A. [https://www.instagram.com/manufactor_sa/?hl=en] Official Instagram account * Philippe Narbel [https://www.instagram.com/philippe_narbel_watchmaking/] Official Instagram account * Nathalie Jean-Louis [https://www.instagram.com/decoration_horlogere/] Official Instagram account * Contantin Chaykin [https://chaykin.ru/en/] * Super Glue Fixturing for CNC Machining [https://www.nyccnc.com/super-glue-fixturing/] From John Saunders & crew at NYC CNC * Painter’s Tape [https://amzn.to/3xliTkt] * Super Glue [https://amzn.to/3xixdu2] * Powder Coating Masking Tape [https://www.mcmaster.com/7630A175/] Thinner than painter’s tape, this is what Chris uses for fixturing watches dials for engine turning * Vacuum Chuck [https://piersonworkholding.com/vacuum-chuck/] * Breguet [https://www.breguet.com]

Mill of Theseus

Chris [https://twitter.com/silver_hand] and Jon [https://twitter.com/undertheloupe] are back recording after lockdown. They discuss the first-documented watch produced in Canada, which Jon recently performed some conservation work on, Chris’ many machine woes, and what constitutes a perfect finish. Interested in sponsoring a future episode of Off Hours? Get in touch. This episode of Off Hours was made possible in part thanks to the Amazon Associates Program. As a part of the program, the show earns from qualifying purchases when you click on links to Amazon (like this one [https://amzn.to/2GwqacS]) from our show notes. * Compliant Mechanisms [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compliant_mechanism] * Bistability [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bistability] * Chaykin Minotaur Wristwatch [https://twitter.com/kchaykin/status/1403766688785567750] Konstantin Chaykin beat Jon & Chris to production * Dr. Organ’s Retirement [https://www.thegoldsmiths.co.uk/company/today/news/2021/04/30/dr-robert-organ-retire-after-21-years-hallmarking-/] Dr. Robert Organ has retired from the Goldsmiths’ Company after 21 years of hallmarking * Trial of the Pyx [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trial_of_the_Pyx] * Kicked Out by Royalty [https://offhours.show/ep17/] Chris recounts his visit to the Goldsmiths’ Company back in episode 17 of Off Hours, the show art for the episode features one of the one-kilo gold proof coins * Rich Loen [https://loen.design] * 007 Special Issue [https://www.royalmint.com/our-coins/events/james-bond/007-special-issue-2020-uk-seven-kilo-gold-proof-coin/] A Bond-inspired, seven-kilo gold proof coin in a very limited edition of one. * Hazy Blue Halo [http://offhours.show/ep30/] Episode 30 of Off Hours [https://offhours.show/resources/uploads/2021/07/kincaid-masterpiece-watch.jpg]Masterpiece watch completed in 1890 by the Canadian Horological Institute’s first graduate, John Kincaid. * Henry Playtner [https://wurm-hastings.com/histories/playtner.html] * NAWCC Bulletin May/June 2021 Issue [https://docs.nawcc.org/Bulletins/2020/articles/2021/451/05_21_May_June_Full_WEB.pdf] Featuring an article on Henry Playtner, as well as John Kincaid’s pocket watch (subscription required) * Museum of Timekeeping [https://www.museumoftimekeeping.org.uk/contact-us/] Museum of the British Horological Museum * Speaking Clock [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Speaking_clock] * Rigid 10K Resin [https://formlabs.com/store/rigid-10k-resin/] From Formlabs * Schwartz Étienne [https://www.schwarz-etienne.ch/en/home/] * Techform Advanced Casting [https://www.techformcasting.com] * Castable Wax 40 Resin [https://formlabs.com/store/materials/castable-wax-40-resin/] From Formlabs * BlueCast Resin [https://www.bluecast.info] * ANYCUBIC Photon Mono X [https://amzn.to/3e8i9sb] A relatively inexpensive but effective resin-based 3D printer * Elagoo [https://www.elegoo.com] * B9 Resins [https://www.b9c.com/products/materials] * Chris’ Taig Mill Conversion [https://www.instagram.com/p/CPgq-R7L8u0/] * Haas Super Mini Mill 2 [https://www.haascnc.com/machines/vertical-mills/mini-mills/models/sminimill2.html] * Haas Compact Mill [https://www.haascnc.com/machines/vertical-mills/compact-mills.html] * Rexhep Rexhepi [https://www.akrivia.com/collection/collection-rexhep-rexhepi/] * Grönefeld Brothers [https://www.gronefeld.com] * Greubel Forsey [https://www.greubelforsey.com] * Lapping Film [https://amzn.to/3e9L1jU] * Lee Yuen-Rapati [https://watchtype.net/about/] * Watches and Wonders [https://www.watchesandwonders.com/en] * WWDC [https://developer.apple.com/wwdc21/]