Beyond Organic Wine

Listen Twice, Speak Once - Villa Callicanthus

This is a free preview of a paid episode. To hear more, visit beyondorganicwine.substack.com [https://beyondorganicwine.substack.com?utm_medium=podcast&utm_campaign=CTA_7] My guest for this episode is Daniele Delaini who owns and farms and makes wine for his family winery Villa Callicanthus [https://www.villacalicantus.it/en/wine-tasting-in-bardolino-lake-garda/] near Lake Garda in northeast Italy. He grows most of his grapes on cement pergola, what they locally call “pergola veronese,” and farms local indigenous varieties of grapes biodynamically and makes wines without adding anything to nor …

The Quest for the Wild Vine – Patrick Pierquet

As a younger man, Patrick Pierquet found the wild grape that became the Frontenac grapes (noir, gris, and blanc). He tells about his experiences discovering the wild parents of several of the North America’s most popular, commercially used wine grapes, as well as the practical aspects of what it takes to breed new varieties of grapes. He also tells stories of Elmer Swenson, with whom he got to work. I recorded an entire episode while picking one of Patrick’s grapes: Fearless Wine [https://beyondorganicwine.substack.com/p/fearless-wine-picking-frontenac-gris-acd?utm_source=publication-search] Patrick also mentions Tom Plocher, who was also influenced by Elmer Swenson, and you can hear Tom’s episode here: Tom Plocher [https://beyondorganicwine.substack.com/p/tom-plocher-how-to-breed-grapevines-ee5?utm_source=publication-search] And if you want to learn more about how important grape breeding is to the present and future of wine, check out my episode with the most famous European grape breeder: Valentin Blattner [https://beyondorganicwine.substack.com/p/earth-day-special-valentin-blattner?utm_source=publication-search] This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit beyondorganicwine.substack.com/subscribe [https://beyondorganicwine.substack.com/subscribe?utm_medium=podcast&utm_campaign=CTA_2]

The French Won The Judgement of Paris

This month we, in California especially, will be inundated with reminders that 50 years ago this May a few pioneering California winemakers beat the French at their own game in a blind tasting that came to be known as the Judgement of Paris. The rise of California wine on the global stage began when French judges preferred California wines to their own Bordeauxs and Borgognes. California won, and the golden age of California wine followed for the next several decades. At least that’s been the doctrine for the last 50 years. Let me suggest an alternative perspective on this historical event: The French won. “But,” you’ll insist, “They didn’t! It’s a matter of historical record.” It depends on which game we think was being played. If we think the game was, “Who makes a better Cabernet or Chardonnay?” Sure, California won that game. But was that really the most important game that was being played that day in 1976? I don’t think so. I think the more important game being played 50 years ago was, “What is the global benchmark for fine wine?” It was a game the French couldn’t lose no matter what wines the judges picked. The French won the Judgment of Paris merely by agreeing to the tasting because it positioned California wines, and any other would-be wines of global importance, in the position of imitating French wines. California only won at being the best imitators of French tastes in wine. But the French won the bigger prize. They showed that if you wanted to be taken seriously, you had to emulate them. You had to follow their lead. The Judgment of Paris created the dynamic that established the French as the arbiters and definers of taste in wine. They became the producers and directors of the game, and the rest of the world became mere players. And so for 50 years California wine has not been Californian. It has mostly been French wine made in California. We even aged our Judgement of Paris-winning wines in imported French oak. Outside of Europe, nine varieties of grapes account for over 50% of the global wine vineyard area, and most of those grapes have French names. Most people in wine are so inculcated in this way of thinking that it’s probably hard for them to imagine a different kind of wine world. That’s how total the French victory was: We can’t imagine wine without French grapes. California has essentially never even tried to develop its own wine culture… despite the fact that there are three species of grapes endemic to California. That’s three times as many species as the French have, but we never even tried to build our own wine varieties from them. Do you know any named wine grape varieties that have Vitis californica genetics? A century before the Judgement of Paris, a wine made from America’s oldest wine grape, Norton, won the award for “best red wine of all nations” at the Vienna World’s Fair of 1873. Yes, an American wine made from an American hybrid grape won a tasting that compared it to the best wines from all over Europe. Why didn’t we celebrate the 150th anniversary of that victory three years ago? While there’s a certain amount of pride to be taken in beating someone at their own game, it’s still their game. The greater pride comes from building your own game that represents your tastes, your culture, your grapes, and your ideas of what wine can be. Everywhere can do this, and will do this differently, leading to a diversity of amazing wine cultures around the world. I think it’s time for another tasting. This time the rule is that your wine has to be your own, from your local grapes or other indigenous fruit. And I have a prediction of the outcome: We will all be winners. This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit beyondorganicwine.substack.com/subscribe [https://beyondorganicwine.substack.com/subscribe?utm_medium=podcast&utm_campaign=CTA_2]

Lost Ranch - Temecula and the New Wave of California Wine

My guest for this episode is Joseph Wiens. With his wife, Jasmine, Joseph founded and makes wine for Lost Ranch Winery [https://www.lostranchwinery.com/] in Temecula Valley California. If you aren’t from Southern California, you might not have heard of Temecula. There are many reasons for this, some we discuss, some historical, some justifiable, and some not. Whatever the reasons, Joseph and Jasmine are giving everyone a reason to take notice, to reconsider this historic wine region, and to discover the next generation of Temecula wine and the new wave of California wine. As a second-generation winemaker, Joseph was steeped in vineyard and cellar approaches that were considered to be best practices. But he didn’t see his values represented in the status quo conventional approach and began planning Lost Ranch. He and Jasmine think ecologically and guide their farming and winemaking by regenerative, organic values, while practicing very low-intervention yet non-dogmatic winemaking. The results are wines of outstanding quality that reflect their region beautifully and uniquely. Some highlights from this include how they use prickly pears in their winemaking to make a stunning wine called Les Cactus. How they incorporate a diversity of genetics in their vineyard, including Italian, Greek, and American genetics, to deal with the climatic and insect-spread disease factors of their region. How they make wine by listening and letting the land and their community determine wine style, resulting in a very delicious and bee-friendly rosé. How they make a wine from 100-year-old grapes, some of which might be hybrids misnamed as Mataro. How they used their sheep’s wool to insulate their chicken mansion. And much more. Temecula Valley is a hot climate wine region that is one of California’s oldest, with records of vineyards from the early 1800’s. It is named for one of the original peoples who made it their home before the arrival of Europeans. Their name meant “Where the sun breaks through the white mist.” Some of these original people still live there, and there are ancient grapevines growing on the nearby Pechanga reservation. Temecula Valley is 22 miles from the Pacific Ocean, around 1500 feet in elevation and at the base of mountains that rise up to 11,000 feet. As the afternoon sun hits those mountains and heats them, the valley gets cooled as ocean breeze gets pulled through the Rainbow Gap in the coastal hills. By night the air on the high mountain peaks spills down to cool the valley further. For these reasons, Temecula has a climate similar to regions several hundreds of miles further north in California, like Calistoga and Lake County. Unlike those regions it brings in over a billion dollars in wine tourism revenue each year…. So yeah, maybe it’s time we give it some much deserved attention. Lost Ranch is giving us some incredibly delicious reasons to take this region seriously. This is the new California wine. Enjoy! This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit beyondorganicwine.substack.com/subscribe [https://beyondorganicwine.substack.com/subscribe?utm_medium=podcast&utm_campaign=CTA_2]

Wine's Heritage Is Adaptation

This is a free preview of a paid episode. To hear more, visit beyondorganicwine.substack.com [https://beyondorganicwine.substack.com?utm_medium=podcast&utm_campaign=CTA_7] My guest for this episode is Marc-André Selosse. He is a professor at the Musée national d’Histoire naturelle in Paris and at the universities of Gdansk (Poland) and Kunming (China), where he heads research teams. He has taught in Brazil and is a lecturer at Ecole Normale Supérieure and Hautes Etudes Commerciales (HEC). His work focuses on the ecology a…