Dr. Tyler Nelson: How to Test Critical Force and What to Do With the Results

Dr. Tyler Nelson: How to Test Critical Force and What to Do With the Results

Test YOUR Critical Force, break through plateaus, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber. https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional [https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional]   Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $15) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong [http://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong]   Dr. Tyler Nelson returns to dive deep on Critical Force, including: * How to test critical force  * Why it matters * My critical force test * Why MVC is still king * How critical force tells us what to train  * Improving power endurance on and off wall * The big change I’m making to my training now * What boulderers should focus on kill * Why so many pros don’t test finger strength    Dr. Tyler Nelson's Critical Force Field Test is on the Intentional Climber app! Test your CF and get instant training recommendations from Tyler based on the results.   Here are Tyler's other episodes to check out: * https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dr-tyler-nelson-on-finger-strength/ [https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dr-tyler-nelson-on-finger-strength/] * https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/expert-analysis-training-with-dr-tyler-nelson/ [https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/expert-analysis-training-with-dr-tyler-nelson/] * https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/pro-clinic-power-with-dr-tyler-nelson-free-preview/ [https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/pro-clinic-power-with-dr-tyler-nelson-free-preview/] * https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dr-tyler-nelson-pro-clinic-on-building-endurance-for-bouldering-and-sport-climbing/ [https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dr-tyler-nelson-pro-clinic-on-building-endurance-for-bouldering-and-sport-climbing/] * https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dr-tyler-nelson-stronger-wrists-stronger-climbing/ [https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dr-tyler-nelson-stronger-wrists-stronger-climbing/] * https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/pro-clinic-dr-tyler-nelson-on-how-to-maintain-and-gain-strength-beyond-age-35-free/ [https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/pro-clinic-dr-tyler-nelson-on-how-to-maintain-and-gain-strength-beyond-age-35-free/] - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: * Arc’teryx [http://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/arcteryxpodcast]: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com [http://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/arcteryxpodcast]  * Intentional Climber [https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentionalpodcast]: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play [http://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentionalgp] or the App Store [http://www.intentionalclimber.com/intentionalapp] and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program. And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at https://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dealspodcastthestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals [http://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals] - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Critical Force Teaser 00:22 Show Intro and Focus 01:39 Critical Force Explained 05:20 Host Updates Australia 06:47 Meet Dr Tyler Nelson 08:05 Testing Protocol Breakdown 11:07 Interpreting Your Numbers 15:27 Energy Systems and Plateau 18:23 Testing Method Matters 23:58 Who Should Use This 25:43 Arc'teryx Academy Ad 26:59 What Results Mean Training 31:42 Route Goal Flower Power 33:28 Training Interventions Percentages 41:49 No Gear Testing Options 43:49 Treadwall for Endurance 45:28 How To Train From Metrics 47:38 Critical Force Takeaways 48:57 Power Endurance Priority 50:28 Training Tools Setup 52:09 Active Rest Explained 53:39 80 vs 60 Percent Blocks 56:11 Retesting and Progress 57:35 Elite Curve and Technique 01:01:47 Why Pros Skip Testing 01:04:00 More Quality Attempts 01:09:31 Repeater Protocol Details 01:11:41 In Season Projecting 01:14:52 Peaking for Fall Season 01:19:57 Outro and App Protocol 01:23:49 My Current Training Plan 01:27:25 Final Wrap Up - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!  - Follow along on Instagram [http://www.instagram.com/thestruggleclimbingshow] and YouTube [http://youtube.com/@thestruggleclimbingshow]: @thestruggleclimbingshow  - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Adam Ondra: Stronger than Ever at 33, New Training Tools, Weird Grip Tricks, and Boulders vs Routes

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber. https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional [https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional]     Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow [https://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/patreonpodcast]   - Elite climber Adam Ondra explores: * Flashing multiple V15 (8C) boulders * How he’s stronger than ever at 33 * The new training tools he’s using  * The truth about his "secret" crimp grips  * Going for V17 (and perhaps V18?) * His weird low-intensity warmup for V15 flash attempts  * Training solo vs with a crew  * Is anyone today capable of 9c+ 5.16a - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: * PhysiVantage: [https://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/physivantagepodcast] the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. * Arc’teryx [http://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/arcteryxpodcast]: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com [http://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/arcteryxpodcast]  * Intentional Climber [https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentionalpodcast]: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play [http://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentionalgp] or the App Store [http://www.intentionalclimber.com/intentionalapp] and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program.   And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at https://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dealspodcastthestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals [http://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals]   - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!  - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 App Announcement 01:15 Welcome Adam Ondra 03:46 Life in Arco Italy 05:39 Smith Rock Stories 06:57 Retiring From Comps 08:49 Flash Mindset Explained 12:20 Training Tools and Crew 16:49 Board Climbing Breakdown 19:09 Sponsor Break Arc'teryx 20:52 Sponsor Break Sendurex 22:35 Strength Testing Habits 24:23 Grip Hacks and Thumb 32:09 Flash vs Project Potential 35:02 App Break Intentional 37:04 Mindset for Flash Attempts 38:47 Flash Warmup Routine 40:48 Using Beta Videos Wisely 43:37 Solo vs Crew Training 46:30 Regimen vs Flexibility 51:39 Sport Climbing Goals 53:49 Arco New Route Potential 55:41 Will 9C Get Repeated 59:20 What Makes 9C Plus 01:03:32 Staying Psyched Climbing 01:06:54 Bonus Episode Promo 01:09:45 Host Training Update 01:11:13 Intentional Climber App 01:14:29 Final Wrap Up   - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow [https://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/podcastinstagram] and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow [https://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/podcastyoutube] - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation [https://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/honnoldfoundationpodcast], whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, [https://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/plugtonepodcast] a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Pro Clinic: Angus Kille and Hazel Findlay on Goal Setting and Finding Our "Why" as Climbers

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 150+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow [https://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/patreonpodcast]   In this Pro Clinic, mindset coach Angus Kille (with guest appearance from Hazel Findlay) explore: * Process goals vs outcome goals * The power of journaling and reflection * Using thoughtful goals to mitigate fear of failure  * Finding your big Why * Is grade chasing a “bad” goal? * Intrinsic vs extrinsic goals  * Setting S.M.A.R.T. goals  Free access to the Mindset Makeover kit from Strong Mind: https://www.strongmindclimbing.com/course/mindset-makeover [https://www.strongmindclimbing.com/course/mindset-makeover]   Explore all of Strong Mind's resources: https://www.strongmindclimbing.com/ [https://www.strongmindclimbing.com/]   Start your free 14-day Trial of the Intentional Climber app, and use code STRUGGLE to unlock mindset tools from Hazel Findlay and the Stronger Fingers program from coach Kris Hampton: https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentionalpodcast [https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentionalpodcast]   - The free version of this Pro Clinic is being brought to you at zero cost thanks to: * Intentional Climber [https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentionalpodcast]: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play [http://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentionalgp] or the App Store [http://www.intentionalclimber.com/intentionalapp] and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program. - Gain instant access to the FULL Pro Clinic by supporting the show as a Patron (you can even check it out for FREE with a 7-day trial): https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow [http://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/patreonpodcast] - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Growth Mindset Hook 00:24 Pro Clinic Returns 00:47 Intentional Climber App 02:36 Why Goals Need Purpose 03:56 Meet Hazel and Angus 05:05 Mallorca Retreat Recap 06:27 Trip Goals and Intentions 08:10 Hazel on Goal Setting 10:44 Angus Evolves His Goals 12:30 Meltdown Project Tactics 18:23 Outcome vs Process Goals 23:53 Find Your North Star 27:09 Ryan Shares His Why 32:17 App Break Intentional Climber 34:48 Digging Deeper Than Progress 44:19 Finding Your Why Support 45:47 Strongmind Resources Explained 46:24 Mindset Frames Growth Mindset 49:24 Bad Why External Values 54:12 From North Star To Goals 55:44 Process Vs Outcome Goals 01:01:05 Intrinsic Vs Extrinsic Motivation 01:07:35 Staying Intrinsically Focused 01:11:35 SMART Goals Without Overload 01:16:35 Distill Your Why Mantra 01:18:19 Wrap Up Links Newsletter 01:21:22 Host Reflection North Star 01:26:24 Intentional Climber App Updates 01:28:09 Final Thanks And Support - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter and Michael Martin for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!  - Follow along on Instagram [http://www.instagram.com/thestruggleclimbingshow] and YouTube [http://youtube.com/@thestruggleclimbingshow]: @thestruggleclimbingshow  - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation [http://www.honnoldfoundation.org/] and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, [https://www.plugtoneaudio.com/] a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! Let's get out there and try hard. Thanks for supporting the show, y'all.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Noah Wheeler: Sending Burden, Finger Training (and Injury), the Next Proj, and the Dab Heard Round the World

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber. https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional [https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional]   Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow [https://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/patreonpodcast]   - Elite climber Noah Wheeler explores: * Specific training for Burden * The dab ascent and what happened after * Is Burden really V17? * The change that unlocked the send * Board climbing vs hang boarding * Mindset tools to lock in for a send * What Daniel Woods taught him  * Half crimp vs full crimp  * The next V17 on his list * The happiness advantage - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: * Arc’teryx [http://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/arcteryxpodcast]: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com [http://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/arcteryxpodcast]  * Intentional Climber [https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentionalpodcast]: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play [http://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentionalgp] or the App Store [http://www.intentionalclimber.com/intentionalapp] and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program. And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at https://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dealspodcastthestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals [http://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals]   - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!  - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Secret App Launch 02:23 Noah Wheeler Intro 06:33 Goals and Process 11:51 Evolving Through Struggle 18:18 Board Training Origins 21:15 Board Sessions and Volume 24:05 Intentional Climber Break 26:07 Rehab and Burden Prep 31:10 The Dab and Redemption 36:24 Dab Send Debate 37:25 Grading Burden Reality 42:10 V17 Or Downgrade 43:17 New Beta Breakdown 47:12 Micro Beta Anchors 50:20 Arc'teryx Harness Spot 52:06 Nutrition Calorie Wakeup 53:08 Carbs Protein Caffeine 57:11 Tactics Trip Mistakes 59:44 Footwork Pull Away 01:02:39 Grip Strength Weakness 01:05:23 Finger Strength Metrics 01:05:59 Projecting Mindset Phases 01:09:52 Pre Send Mental Crux 01:11:36 Embodiment Tools 01:15:50 Happiness Advantage 01:19:35 What’s Next Plans 01:20:53 Board Style Dreams 01:22:55 We Will Rock Vision 01:25:24 Wrap Up Bonus Plug 01:28:00 Host App Pitch 01:29:28 Climbing Reflections 01:31:59 Final Thanks Outro - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow [https://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/podcastinstagram] and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow [https://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/podcastyoutube] - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation [https://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/honnoldfoundationpodcast], whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, [https://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/plugtonepodcast] a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

The May Plog: My Endurance Training Plan, Critical Force Assessment, and Realizing I'm a Bad Climber

Reflecting on my training, performance, and experimentation for the month, including: * Recap of May goals (hits and misses) * Finding flow and fun outdoors * Breaking down my endurance training plan * Results from my critical force test * How I'm going to maintain strength and power * A smack in the face regarding my technique * Listener questions * June goals   Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!   Download Intentional Climber [https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentionalpodcast] on Google Play [http://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentionalgp] or the App Store [http://www.intentionalclimber.com/intentionalapp] and use code LAUNCHCREW to unlock $300 of free coaching plans, plus a secret discount (ends June 5th).   Have an awesome month!