The Wine Grapes Project - Tasting 1,368 Grape Varieties
Zéta is one of the six grapes permitted in Tokaji Aszú, and one you'll almost never see on its own. It's rare enough as a dry, single-varietal wine that I doubted I'd find one at all — until a wine shop in the village of Tokaj turned up a bottle.Get more from my wine journey on Instagram 📷 https://www.instagram.com/uncorkmywine_official/Zéta is a fitting name. In Géza Gárdonyi's Hungarian novel, Zéta is a Greek slave who moves unseen through the court of Attila the Hun — an invisible man. The grape is nearly as invisible: around 110 hectares, almost all in Tokaj, and mostly used as a blending partner in Aszú rather than bottled alone.It's also a modern variety. Zéta was crossed in 1951 by Ferenc Király — a breeder so fond of the letter Z that its half-siblings include Zenit, Zengő and Zeusz. It was called Oremus until 1999, when it was renamed to avoid confusion with the famous Oremus vineyard and winery. Among the six Tokaji Aszú grapes it earns its place by ripening early and taking botrytis readily, which makes it a useful backbone for the noble-rot sweet wines.The wine here is a dry, 100% Zéta from a small family estate run by Péter Ákos, between the villages of Tokaj and Tarcal, aged in old oak. Pale and greenish, 13% alcohol, and more complex than I expected: citrus and lime, an underripe-peach freshness, wet-stone minerality, and a chemical, almost bergamot edge on the nose, with a light creaminess and roundness from the barrel. Medium-plus acidity, good structure, fresh and lively with a medium finish — a terrace wine that also handles light fish or a cheese plate.
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