Have Toga, Will Travel: Exploring Greece and Rome, Ancient and Modern

Hadrian’s Wall, Part II: Walking from Wallsend to Carrawburgh

56 min · 1. Mai 2026
Episode Hadrian’s Wall, Part II: Walking from Wallsend to Carrawburgh Cover

Beschreibung

Curious to know what it’s like to walk the length of Hadrian’s Wall in northern England and experience the monument the way the ancient Romans did (on foot!)? Join Emily and Cam as they describe what there is to see and do along the first 38 miles of Hadrian’s Wall Path National Trail. You’ll hear about Roman soldiers from Mesopotamia, a Smell-o-Rama (yes, really!), the modern worship of the ancient god Mithras, and what Cam thinks about Real Ale (spoiler: he loves it!). Visit our homepage to subscribe, to find us on social media, and to contact us by email: 1. https://havetogawilltravel.com [https://havetogawilltravel.com/] ---------- 00:10 - Introduction 00:44 - Hadrian’s Wall Path 1. 01:34 - Our experience on the Trail 2. 02:12 - The history of the Trail and the English footpath system 3. 03:32 - How we came to walk the Wall 4. 05:00 - The three main sections of the Wall 06:20 - Arbeia (South Shields) 1. 06:49 - The fort and its garrison: the Tigris rivermen 2. 10:43 - Some fun on the Newcastle Metro 11:53 - Wallsend and Segedunum 1. 12:02 - Latin everywhere! 2. 12:44 - Exploring Segedunum Roman Fort 3. 15:35 - The Wall Passport and Segedunum’s guest book 16:53 - Newcastle and Newburn 1. 16:59 - Tyneside and its industries 2. 18:26 - The bridges of Newcastle 3. 19:49 - Newburn: Keelman’s Lodge and Big Lamp Brewery 4. 21:48 - Cam’s digression on Real Ale 22:58 - Heddon on the Wall 1. 23:19 - Blackberry season! 2. 24:06 - The wall re-emerges 3. 25:36 - Living with livestock along the Wall 27:19 - The Portgate and Dere Street 1. 28:25 - A digression on Sticky Toffee Pudding 29:50 - Corbridge and Corstopitum 1. 30:25 - A strategic junction: Dere Street, the Stanegate, the Tyne 2. 31:50 - The Roman site and the museum 3. 33:43 - Getting to Corbridge from the Wall 4. 33:47 - Making friends along the trail 37:00 - Heavenfield 1. 37:13 - St. Oswald’s Way 2. 37:39 - Bede and the Battle of Heavenfield 38:38 - Planetrees 1. 39:06 - The Broad Wall meets the Narrow Wall 2. 39:45 - Why does the Narrow Wall exist? 40:55 - The North Tyne, Chollerford, Chesters 1. 41:22 - The Roman bridge across the North Tyne 2. 42:26 - Chesters Fort: the site and its inhabitants 3. 45:54 - Greencarts, the AD122 bus, and why doing the Trail in 2 days is a bad idea 48:15 - The Mithraeum at Carrawburgh 1. 49:34 - Mithras: the Romans reimagine an Iranian god 2. 50:07 - Mithraism and other mystery cults 3. 51:19 - The Mithraeum and its remains 4. 52:14 - An encounter with a modern devotee of Mithras 54:55 - Wrap-up

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Episode Thermae Romae: A Japanese Film about Ancient Roman Bathing—and Time Travel! Cover

Thermae Romae: A Japanese Film about Ancient Roman Bathing—and Time Travel!

Have you ever wondered what a bath-house architect from ancient Rome would think if he found himself swept through a time warp into a modern Japanese Spa? Wonder no more! Emily and Cam discuss Thermae Romae, a 2012 Japanese Film that seeks to explore precisely this question by dramatizing the adventures of one Lucius Modestus, an engineer who becomes Emperor Hadrian’s personal bath-house designer. Visit our homepage to subscribe, to find us on social media, and to contact us by email: * https://havetogawilltravel.com [https://havetogawilltravel.com/] Useful Links: * Watch Thermae Romae (with English Subtitles) on Dailymotion [https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x8ftx58] * Watch the Thermae Romae Novae anime series on Netflix [https://www.netflix.com/title/81264354] Cover art adapted from Joseph Theodor Hansen, "Tepidarium at the Forum Baths in Pompeii" ---------- 00:11 - Introduction 01:56 - Thermae Romae: the basics * 02:28 - How to watch Thermae Romae * 03:29 - A plot summary: Lucius Modestus travels through time, learns lots about Japanese bathing culture, and applies his knowledge to Roman bath-houses in the time of Hadrian * 06:59 - The original Thermae Romae manga series * 08:13 - The film’s success and the Thermae Romae Universe 10:17 - A Fish-out-of-Water Comedy * 10:24 - The basic premise and some of the movie’s quirks * 13:35 - Modern Japanese and Ancient Roman bathing cultures, compared * 19:16 - Lucius bumbles his way through modern Japan and discovers the marvels of Japanese bathing * 26:05 - Poking fun of Japanese onsen culture (and a digression on the challenges of translation) 29:46 - Thermae Romae and Roman Culture * 29:56 - A quirky interpretation of real Roman history: the reign of Hadrian, the death of Antinous, and the question of succession (and deification!) * 38:54 - Lucius’ (very Japanese) critique of Roman bathing culture * 42:09 - Does Lucius’ critique hold water? Imperial bath-houses, neighborhood bath-houses, and bath-house sociability * 47:04 - The old men from the onsen teach Lucius to care less about honor and more about community spirit * 49:36 - Some final thoughts about the movie 51:25 - Wrap-up * 51:31 - What’s up next: the Odyssey—both Homer’s Odyssey, and Nolan’s Odyssey * 52:26 - A plug for “The Return” (and for our episode about it!)

1. Juli 202653 min
Episode Vacation Reminder—and a sneak peak at Season 2! Cover

Vacation Reminder—and a sneak peak at Season 2!

We’re dropping a quick note in our feed to remind you that we’re on vacation and won’t be releasing a full episode on June 15, but also to tease a couple of upcoming episodes—including a couple on Homer’s Odyssey and Christopher Nolan’s film of the same name! Visit our homepage to subscribe, to find us on social media, and to contact us by email: * https://havetogawilltravel.com [https://havetogawilltravel.com/] Read the first in our series of blog posts on Hadrian’s Wall here: * Hiking Hadrian’s Wall, Part I [https://havetogawilltravel.com/blog/hiking-hadrians-wallpart-i] If you haven’t done so already, have a listen to our episode on The Return, a 2024 film adaptation of the Odyssey starring Ralph Fiennes and Juliette Binoche: * Homer’s Odyssey on Film: “The Return” [https://havetogawilltravel.com/podcast/have-toga-will-travel/episode/homers-odyssey-on-film-the-return]

15. Juni 20262 min
Episode Hadrian’s Wall, Part IV: Walking from Birdoswald to Bowness-on-Solway Cover

Hadrian’s Wall, Part IV: Walking from Birdoswald to Bowness-on-Solway

Emily and Cam wrap up their series on hiking Hadrian’s Wall Path with a discussion of the final 31 miles of the Wall. Follow along as they explore medieval monuments made of wallstone, find themselves treed by some cows, and are regaled with tales of cannibals (human and otherwise!). Visit our homepage to subscribe, to find us on social media, and to contact us by email: 1. https://havetogawilltravel.com [https://havetogawilltravel.com/] Read the first post in our series of blog posts on Hadrian’s Wall here: 1. Hiking Hadrian’s Wall, Part I [https://havetogawilltravel.com/blog/hiking-hadrians-wallpart-i] If you’re interested in hiking the Wall, you’ll find the following resources helpful: 1. Walking Hadrian’s Wall Path, by Mark Richards (Cicerone Press) [https://www.cicerone.co.uk/hadrians-wall-path?srsltid=AfmBOooKaThgYe2HCCL1VjytbV5NQbDPJWfb8Nj3tAq-NF_Yl9KFU1De] 2. Hadrian’s Wall Path, by Anthony Burton (National Trails Official Guidebook) [https://thetrailsshop.co.uk/products/hadrians-wall-path?_pos=1&_sid=17da385f3&_ss=r] 3. Harvey Maps, Map of Hadrian’s Wall Path [https://www.harveymaps.co.uk/acatalog/Hadrian-s-Wall-Path-YHWRHA.html#SID=4] Finally, you’ll find the rest of the episodes in this series at the following links: 1. Hadrian’s Wall, Part I: The Romans in Britain and the Imperial Frontier [https://havetogawilltravel.com/podcast/have-toga-will-travel/episode/hadrians-wall-part-i-the-romans-in-the-britain-and-the-imperial-frontier] 2. Hadrian’s Wall, Part II: Walking from Wallsend to Carrawburgh [https://havetogawilltravel.com/podcast/have-toga-will-travel/episode/hadrians-wall-part-ii-walking-from-wallsend-to-carrawburgh] 3. Hadrian’s Wall, Part III: Hiking the Crags (Sewingshields to Birdoswald) [https://havetogawilltravel.com/podcast/have-toga-will-travel/episode/hadrians-wall-part-iii-hiking-the-crags-sewingshields-to-birdoswald] ---------- 00:11 - Introduction 1. 00:24 - Episode overview 2. 01:11 - Housekeeping and Summer vacation 02:41 - Birdoswald to Haytongate 1. 03:16 - The character of the trail and the last visible elements of the Wall 2. 05:44 - Honesty Boxes and the Haytongate Hut 06:56 - Lanercost Priory 1. 07:22 - A priory built of wallstone: the history of Lanercost 2. 10:52 - Exploring Lanercost (and our encounter with Max) 12:24 - Haytongate to Carlisle 1. 12:46 - An unpleasant encounter with cows 2. 14:37 - “Where’s the Wall,” or the perils of starting in the west 3. 15:55 - Crosby on Eden, haggis, and black pudding 4. 17:59 - The Wall at the River Eden: Uxelodunum and Milecastle 66 18:27 - Carlisle 1. 18:56 - Carlisle Castle: Luguvalium becomes the old Norman keep 2. 21:31 - Richard III, Mary Queen of Scots, and the Jacobites: Carlisle Castle’s long history 3. 24:52 - Another encounter with Max 4. 27:00 - Carlisle Cathedral (and more plundered wallstone) 5. 28:47 - Carlisle’s Guildhall 6. 30:06 - Misadventures in Carlisle dining 31:46 - Carlisle to Bowness on Solway 1. 32:14 - Burgh by Sands: Aballava, Africans in Roman Britain, and Edward I’s unpleasant bout with dysentery 2. 34:53 - The Tidal Flats: Dykesfield, Drumburgh, and the dangers of high tide! 3. 37:45 - Bowness on Solway and a gathering at Fort Maia: Billy No-Mates and a man obsessed with cannibals! 43:02 - Logistics of the Hike 1. 43:07 - Where to begin? In the west at Bowness, or in the east at Newcastle? 2. 45:38 - Resources for planning: books and maps 3. 47:10 - Lodging, adventure companies, luggage, and the AD 122 bus 4. 50:53 - Food: full English breakfasts and pub fare 5. 53:16 - Tips for the trail: rain, sunburn, and blisters, oh my! 56:56 - Final Thoughts 58:02 - Wrap-up

1. Juni 202659 min
Episode Hadrian's Wall, Part III: Hiking the Crags (Sewingshields to Birdoswald) Cover

Hadrian's Wall, Part III: Hiking the Crags (Sewingshields to Birdoswald)

Fabulous vistas and amazing artifacts await eager hikers along the central section of Hadrian’s Wall Path. Listen as Emily and Cam chat about them all in this installment of their series on the Wall. Get ready for Roman Army re-enactors, the world’s oldest surviving document written by a woman, and the tree that stole the show from Kevin Costner and Morgan Freeman—but watch out for the cheesecake! Visit our homepage to subscribe, to find us on social media, and to contact us by email: * https://havetogawilltravel.com [https://havetogawilltravel.com/] ---------- 00:11 - Introduction 01:19 - Dialects: Cumbrian and Geordie * 02:05 - What's a dialect, anyway? * 02:26 - The Cumbrian Dialect * 04:18 - The Geordie Dialect 05:30 - Sewingshields Crag * 06:38 - Views of the North Ditch * 07:40 - Preserved lengths of Wall along the Great Whin Sill * 09:31 - The summit of Sewingshields, gale warnings, and Joe the Dog 13:02 - Housesteads Roman Fort * 13:39 - History, layout, and garrison of Vercovicium * 14:51 - Exploring Housesteads * 16:52 - The Ermine Street Guard: a modern Roman Legion 19:51 - Hotbank and Highshields * 20:27 - The Clayton Wall * 21:22 - Milecastle 37 and its impressive North Gate 22:51 - Sycamore Gap * 23:27 - The Sycamore that starred in Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves * 25:07 - The senseless destruction of the tree (and some original Roman masonry) 26:33 - Twice Brewed and Vindolanda * 26:44 - The Twice Brewed Inn: beds and beer! * 27:33 - Vindolanda and its history: the forts of the Stanegate * 29:08 - Exploring Vindolanda (and practicing your Latin!) * 29:57 - Vindolanda's anoxic soil and archaeological treasures * 31:17 - The Vindolanda Tablets: Sulpicia Lepidina receives a birthday party invitation, and Maculus wants beer! 35:31 - Peel Crags to Walltown Crags * 36:51 - The Peel Crags and Castle Nick (or Milecastle 39) * 38:10 - The literal high point of the trail: Windshields Crag * 38:52 - Views of the Vallum * 40:16 - An encounter with a real-life snooty professor * 41:52 - The Carvoran Roman Army Museum, and some cool archaeology 45:26 - The Irthing River Valley * 46:18 - Thirwall Castle and plundered wallstone * 47:01 - The Roman bridge at Willowford * 47:41 - Milecastle 49 and the junction of the turf and stone Walls * 48:24 - The walk to Birdoswald: Centurion Stones and Apotropaic Stones 49:20 - Birdoswald Roman Fort * 49:36 - The history of Banna and its residents * 50:19 - Exploring Birdoswald and points nearby * 51:26 - Cocidius: a “Romanized” Celtic war god * 52:41 - Birdoswald's afterlife: warbands, reivers and Henry Norman * 55:19 - A misadventure with English cheesecake 56:05 - Wrap-up

15. Mai 202657 min
Episode Hadrian’s Wall, Part II: Walking from Wallsend to Carrawburgh Cover

Hadrian’s Wall, Part II: Walking from Wallsend to Carrawburgh

Curious to know what it’s like to walk the length of Hadrian’s Wall in northern England and experience the monument the way the ancient Romans did (on foot!)? Join Emily and Cam as they describe what there is to see and do along the first 38 miles of Hadrian’s Wall Path National Trail. You’ll hear about Roman soldiers from Mesopotamia, a Smell-o-Rama (yes, really!), the modern worship of the ancient god Mithras, and what Cam thinks about Real Ale (spoiler: he loves it!). Visit our homepage to subscribe, to find us on social media, and to contact us by email: 1. https://havetogawilltravel.com [https://havetogawilltravel.com/] ---------- 00:10 - Introduction 00:44 - Hadrian’s Wall Path 1. 01:34 - Our experience on the Trail 2. 02:12 - The history of the Trail and the English footpath system 3. 03:32 - How we came to walk the Wall 4. 05:00 - The three main sections of the Wall 06:20 - Arbeia (South Shields) 1. 06:49 - The fort and its garrison: the Tigris rivermen 2. 10:43 - Some fun on the Newcastle Metro 11:53 - Wallsend and Segedunum 1. 12:02 - Latin everywhere! 2. 12:44 - Exploring Segedunum Roman Fort 3. 15:35 - The Wall Passport and Segedunum’s guest book 16:53 - Newcastle and Newburn 1. 16:59 - Tyneside and its industries 2. 18:26 - The bridges of Newcastle 3. 19:49 - Newburn: Keelman’s Lodge and Big Lamp Brewery 4. 21:48 - Cam’s digression on Real Ale 22:58 - Heddon on the Wall 1. 23:19 - Blackberry season! 2. 24:06 - The wall re-emerges 3. 25:36 - Living with livestock along the Wall 27:19 - The Portgate and Dere Street 1. 28:25 - A digression on Sticky Toffee Pudding 29:50 - Corbridge and Corstopitum 1. 30:25 - A strategic junction: Dere Street, the Stanegate, the Tyne 2. 31:50 - The Roman site and the museum 3. 33:43 - Getting to Corbridge from the Wall 4. 33:47 - Making friends along the trail 37:00 - Heavenfield 1. 37:13 - St. Oswald’s Way 2. 37:39 - Bede and the Battle of Heavenfield 38:38 - Planetrees 1. 39:06 - The Broad Wall meets the Narrow Wall 2. 39:45 - Why does the Narrow Wall exist? 40:55 - The North Tyne, Chollerford, Chesters 1. 41:22 - The Roman bridge across the North Tyne 2. 42:26 - Chesters Fort: the site and its inhabitants 3. 45:54 - Greencarts, the AD122 bus, and why doing the Trail in 2 days is a bad idea 48:15 - The Mithraeum at Carrawburgh 1. 49:34 - Mithras: the Romans reimagine an Iranian god 2. 50:07 - Mithraism and other mystery cults 3. 51:19 - The Mithraeum and its remains 4. 52:14 - An encounter with a modern devotee of Mithras 54:55 - Wrap-up

1. Mai 202656 min