Ep 22: Climbing Hallasan, The Heart of Jeju | Outdoor Jeju

Ep 22: Climbing Hallasan, The Heart of Jeju | Outdoor Jeju

Ed has been waiting 22 episodes to talk about his favorite mountain in the world: Hallasan, South Korea's tallest peak at 1,947 meters. This episode breaks down everything visitors need to know about climbing Hallasan, from the two summit trails (Gwaneumsa and Seongpanak) to the two partial trails (Eorimok and Yeongsil) for those who want the experience without the full commitment. Ed shares his hard-won lessons about wet rocks, knee braces, and the humiliation of being passed by children and seniors on the descent, while Sora reveals she climbed to the summit solo on a snowy November day and made friends along the way. KEY TAKEAWAYS * Hallasan is the tallest mountain in South Korea (1,947m) and a bucket-list climb for Koreans; about 900,000 people climb annually * Two summit trails (reservation required): Gwaneumsa (north, shorter but steeper, many rock stairs) and Seongpanak (east, longer but gentler, more forest); 1,500 spots per day total (1,000 Seongpanak, 500 Gwaneumsa) * Book on the 1st of the month for the following month; weekdays are easier for visitors since Koreans tend to book weekends * Recommended strategy: climb up Gwaneumsa (steep but faster), descend via Seongpanak (longer but easier on knees); you must start from your registered trailhead but can descend either way * Time cutoffs: must pass checkpoints by certain times (varies by season, roughly 11:30am-12:30pm for checkpoints, 1-2pm to leave summit); start by 7am at the latest, 5am is better * Two partial trails (no reservation): Eorimok (longer, wooden decks, famous for autumn foliage at Eorimok Gyegok) and Yeongsil (shorter, steeper, famous for 500 rock formations called the "500 sons of the goddess"); both meet at Witsaeoreum * No convenience stores in the park; bring all food and water; bathroom water is not confirmed potable * Koreans bring thermos flasks to make ramyeon at rest stops; at altitude, water boils at a lower temperature so noodles don't fully cook (this is apparently the point) * Gear: hiking poles, knee braces (especially for descent), crampons in winter; wet volcanic rock stairs on Gwaneumsa are treacherous * Bus 240 connects Jeju City to Eorimok, Yeongsil, and Jungmun (once per hour), but plan a 30 minute hike from the bus stop to the trailheads * Koreans are friendlier on hiking trails; strangers share snacks and encouragement (파이팅!) NEXT STEPS * Blog post: vamosajeju.com/climb [http://vamosajeju.com/climb] * Plan your Jeju trip at vamosajeju.com/trip [http://vamosajeju.com/trip] * Follow @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, and Facebook * Subscribe to our YouTube channel @vamosajeju * Share the show with a friend!

Ep 21: Mini Jeju Olleh Trails: 80% of the Majesty, 30% of the Effort | Outdoor Jeju

Ed invented the "mini Olleh trail" concept as a secret strategy to get his hiking-averse family members hooked on the Jeju Olleh Trail. The idea: walk a short, easy section that includes at least one stamping station, get them a passport with a few stamps, take them to the gift shop, and hope they come back to finish the rest someday. This episode maps out mini trails across the island, all under 90 minutes, close to bus stops, and featuring at least one passport stamp. KEY TAKEAWAYS * Mini Olleh standards: under 90 minutes, not too difficult, within 15 minutes of bus stops on both ends, includes at least one stamping station * North coast (Jeju City): Sarabong Oreum (Trail 18 start, under 1 hour, murals, harbor views); Dodubong + Rainbow Coastal Road (Trail 17 midpoint at Eoyong Park, 1-1.5 hours, cafes, plane views) * Northeast coast: Haengwon to Gimnyeong Beach (Trail 20 midpoint near Camel Coffee and windmills, flat walk, emerald beaches, K-drama location, bus 201 nearby) * East coast: Gwangchigi Beach to Seongsan port (Trail 1 endpoint, walk through town, cross bridge for Iceland-like views, bus 201 serves both ends) * East coast: Sehwa Beach and Haenyeo Museum (Trail 21 start, Sumbisori Gil loop through farmlands, Byeolbangjin fortress with canola flowers, optional push to midpoint for two stamps, kalguksu restaurant with money on the walls) * South coast (Seogwipo): Olleh HQ is the stamping station for Trail 6 end / Trail 7 start; east fork goes to Jeongbang and Sojeongbang waterfalls (60-75 min); west fork goes past Jeju's only rice field to a temple and coastal road (45-60 min) * More mini trails in the blog post: vamosajeju.com/hike [http://vamosajeju.com/hike] NEXT STEPS * Plan your Jeju trip at vamosajeju.com/trip [http://vamosajeju.com/trip] * Follow @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, and Facebook * Get a passport, collect a few stamps, and come back to finish the trail

Ep 20: The Jeju Olleh Trail - The Hike of a Lifetime| Outdoor Jeju

Ed has been waiting 20 episodes to talk about his favorite thing in Jeju: the 437-kilometer Jeju Olleh Trail. This episode covers everything a potential hiker needs to know, from the meaning of "Olleh" (a Jeju dialect word for the narrow pathway between a traditional house and the village road) to the passport stamping system, the blue (clockwise) and orange (counterclockwise) trail markers, and how to get the completion certificate at the Seogwipo headquarters. Ed shares his top three favorite courses and Sora teases a future guided Olleh tour for English speakers. KEY TAKEAWAYS * 27 routes totaling 437 km; most people do one trail (5-8 hours) or half a trail, not the whole thing * No registration required to walk; just follow the blue and orange ribbons with the Ganse horse symbol * Optional passport system: buy a booklet at any Olleh visitor center; stamp at the start, midpoint, and end of each trail; endpoint of one trail is the start of the next * Blue arrows = clockwise direction; orange arrows = counterclockwise * Completion certificate and pin awarded at Jeju Olleh Foundation HQ in Seogwipo (warning: they make you ring a bell and read an award speech) * Who should try it: people who like walking, have time, are comfortable navigating buses (some routes have buses only every 2 hours), and are okay staying in local pensions * Ed's top 3 courses: Course 21 (Haenyeo Museum through Sumbisori Gil, farmlands, Hado Beach, Jimibong); Course 8/9 (Gunsan Oreum descent through horse trail tunnel to a Mediterranean-style port); Course 1 (ending at Gwangchigi Beach with sunset or sunrise views of Seongsan Ilchulbong) * Sora is developing a 1-2 week guided Olleh tour in English; contact soraya@vamosajeju.com [soraya@vamosajeju.com] * Blog post: vamosajeju.com/olleh [http://vamosajeju.com/olleh] NEXT STEPS * Plan your Jeju trip at vamosajeju.com/trip [http://vamosajeju.com/trip] * Follow @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, and Facebook * Share the show with someone who needs a walking challenge

Ep 19: Hikes for People who Hate Hiking Part 2 | Outdoor Jeju

Continuing Ed's menu of hike-hater-friendly options for his family trip, this episode covers coastal headlands, windmill walks, historically significant trails, tea plantation strolls, and waterfall visits. These are all designed with the same principles: not too long, not too steep, interesting throughout, and easy to bail out of when needed. Key Takeaways * Coastal headlands: Seopjikoji (east coast, flat, canola flowers March-May, views of Seongsan); Songaksan (southwest, loop trail, K-drama filming location for When Life Gives You Tangerines) * Windmill walks: Sinchang Windmill Coastal Road (west coast, 30-60 minutes depending on route, raised platform over water); Haengwon to Gimnyeong Beach (east coast, Camel Coffee starting point, Woljeong and Gimnyeong beaches, snorkeling in summer) * Historical hikes: Sumbisori Gil from Haenyeo Museum through farmlands to Hado and Byeolbangjin fortress (2 hours full loop; take bus one way to halve it); Altereu Airfield (WWII Japanese hangars among garlic and radish fields, connects to Seodal Memorial and April 3rd massacre site; dark tourism, requires car) * Tea plantation: Osulloc (walk past the crowded cafe into the plantation itself; biggest in Jeju; rows of tea as far as you want to walk) * Waterfalls: Jeongbang (only waterfall in Korea that flows directly into the sea); Sojeongbang (small Jeongbang; peaceful, fewer crowds); both connect to Lee Jung-Seop Street walk; art gallery and Sora's House (shell museum) nearby * Blog post with all hikes: vamosajeju.com/hike [http://vamosajeju.com/hike] Next Steps * Plan your Jeju trip at vamosajeju.com/trip [http://vamosajeju.com/trip] * Follow @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, and Facebook * Leave a review and let us know which hike you tried

Ep 18: Hikes for People who Hate Hiking Part 1 | Outdoor Jeju

Ed is planning a family trip to Jeju for Christmas 2026, and some family members love hiking while others absolutely hate it. This episode presents his solution: a curated menu of hikes designed for reluctant walkers. He establishes four benchmarks for hike-hater-friendly trails: under 90 minutes, minimal elevation gain, interesting things to see throughout, and places to rest (preferably cafes). A bonus criterion: easy bail-out options via bus or taxi. Part 1 covers urban walks in Jeju City and Seogwipo, easy Oreums near the airport, and beach walks at low tide. KEY TAKEAWAYS * Urban walks in Jeju City: Jeonnongno Cherry Blossom Street has murals, cafes, and souvenir shops even without cherry blossoms; 30 minutes to 2 hours; quit anytime * Urban walks in Seogwipo: Lee Jung-Seop Street starts at the Olle daily market and goes downhill past cafes and shops to the artist's museum (closed for renovation until 2027, but free gallery available); can extend to Saeyeongyo Bridge and Saeseom Island * Sarabong Oreum: 7-15 minutes to the top; one of the top 10 views from Joseon dynasty (Sabong Nakjo sunset); local kids, rabbits, exercising elders; cherry blossoms in spring * Dodubong Oreum + Rainbow Coastal Road: views of planes landing; cafes with rooftops and elevators; Eoyong Park near the runway; Daiso escape hatch for shopping; buses run hourly * Beach walks: Pyoseon (check tide tables; combine with Jeju Folk Village); Gwangchigi Beach near Seongsan (green carpet of seaweed on lava rock at low tide; stunning sunrise or sunset views of Ilchulbong) * Blog post with all hikes: vamosajeju.com/hike [http://vamosajeju.com/hike] NEXT STEPS * Plan your Jeju trip at vamosajeju.com/trip [http://vamosajeju.com/trip] * Follow @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, and Facebook * Share the show with a friend who hates hiking but loves views