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Don't Pretend We're Dead Podcast

Podcast af Corina Zappia

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For each episode of the Don’t Pretend We’re Dead podcast, I’ll be talking with women doing really cool work right now in the fields of advocacy, arts and culture, food, science and technology. Let's meet them together. Subscribe for free. dontpretendweredead.substack.com

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8 episoder

episode Inside the world of snakes, snake experts and "snake bros" cover

Inside the world of snakes, snake experts and "snake bros"

On this episode: What is it like to search for 14-foot-long Burmese pythons in the Everglades? What is it like to wrestle with sea turtles in the water? And what exactly is a “snake bro”? I talk with herpetologists Dr. Hayley Crowell and Dr. Leonard Jones about common snake misconceptions, hypermasculinity in snake-expert world, and Hayley’s advice to women who want to work in the male-dominated field of herpetology.. For each episode of the Don’t Pretend We’re Dead podcast, I’ll be talking with women doing cool work right now in the fields of advocacy, arts, culture, food, journalism, science and technology. Let’s meet them together. Subscribe for free to learn about new episodes. About Dr. Hayley Crowell Dr. Hayley Crowell [https://sites.google.com/view/hayleylcrowell] is an evolutionary ecophysiologist interested in the secret world of animal coloration. The majority of her work focuses on large-scale patterns and physiological consequences of “hidden colors” (i.e., UV and NIR) in snakes and lizards (see her article about this in [https://www.nature.com/articles/s41467-024-49506-4.epdf?sharing_token=O-zQwe6_e9g0pNZCMaOP3tRgN0jAjWel9jnR3ZoTv0OiTNd7tHSC8FVAXMlnohHdrAHGseqNkdoCd7-EqH41jNTBqiB4TdmJE2Q7LjhLWqksrLBN531oKKIHNI0sLjzW5Y7Q6DBUK_fgaaM_qH6QelGQIQ3UrG0MCQix3TZpAIM%3D]Nature [https://www.nature.com/articles/s41467-024-49506-4.epdf?sharing_token=O-zQwe6_e9g0pNZCMaOP3tRgN0jAjWel9jnR3ZoTv0OiTNd7tHSC8FVAXMlnohHdrAHGseqNkdoCd7-EqH41jNTBqiB4TdmJE2Q7LjhLWqksrLBN531oKKIHNI0sLjzW5Y7Q6DBUK_fgaaM_qH6QelGQIQ3UrG0MCQix3TZpAIM%3D]). She is currently a lecturer and researcher at the University of Michigan’s Ecology and Evolutionary Biology Department. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit dontpretendweredead.substack.com [https://dontpretendweredead.substack.com?utm_medium=podcast&utm_campaign=CTA_1]

13. feb. 2026 - 59 min
episode Why we should be talking about internet inequity in 2026—and not just AI cover

Why we should be talking about internet inequity in 2026—and not just AI

On this episode: Talking with the editor of the forthcoming book Internet Decolonized, Dr. Henna Zamurd Butt, on why people still get unequal internet service and prices across a city like Chicago—and how communities are fighting back. For each episode of the Don’t Pretend We’re Dead podcast, I’ll be talking with women doing cool work right now in the fields of advocacy, arts, culture, food, journalism, science and technology. Let’s meet them together. Subscribe for free to learn about new episodes. Mentioned in this episode with Dr. Henna Zamurd Butt: Internet Innovation Initiative [https://internetequity.org/] at University of Chicago Internet Decolonized (forthcoming), Oxford University Press, 2026. Race After Technology by Ruha Benjamin, Wiley, 2019. [https://www.wiley.com/en-us/Race+After+Technology%3A+Abolitionist+Tools+for+the+New+Jim+Code-p-9781509526437] A Declaration of the Independence of Cyberspace by John Perry Barlow, Duke Law & Technology Review, 2019. [https://scholarship.law.duke.edu/dltr/vol18/iss1/2/] Digital Democracy, Analogue Politics by Nanjala Nyabola, Bloomsbury, 2018. [https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/digital-democracy-analogue-politics-9781786994318/] Digital Dilemmas: Power, Resistance and the Internet, by M.I. Franklin, Oxford University Press, 2014. [https://global.oup.com/academic/product/digital-dilemmas-9780199982707?cc=gb&lang=en&] Feminist Principles of the Internet v2 by the Association for Progressive Communications, 2024. [https://www.apc.org/en/pubs/feminist-principles-internet-version-20] About Dr. Henna Zamurd Butt Dr. Henna Zamurd Butt is an interdisciplinary scholar-artist and Assistant Professor of Communication & Culture at Columbia College Chicago. Her work brings together ethnographic and participatory methods with a creative research practice that spans curation, digital network-making, printmaking, ceramics, and DJing. She is interested in the cultural politics of sociotechnical systems and the possibilities of feminist and decolonizing praxis. Technē Studio serves as the hub for Henna’s creative research. In March 2026, the Studio will launch Mehfil, a situated server art gallery inaugurated with everyday marks—an archive of images documenting her personal henna practice. The project unsettles binaries of right/left hand and active/passive, foregrounding embodied and habitual forms of knowledge. In late spring 2026, Henna will open a preparatory installation ahead of her forthcoming solo exhibition, Bodies of Knowledge, which uses ceramic and print works to consider the ethnographer’s body as a technology of knowledge-making. As co-editor of Internet Decolonized (Oxford University Press, 2026), Henna has worked with her collaborator, Professor Marianne Franklin, to curate a collection that brings activists’ and academics’ writing into conversation, exploring how the internet might be decolonized. Her forthcoming publications include a comparative analysis of internet connectivity projects in Michigan (Digital Culture & Society) and an autoethnographic account of DJ practice as technē (Journal of Cultural Politics). In 2025, Henna completed a postdoctoral scholarship at the University of Chicago. She holds a PhD from the Department of Media & Communications at Goldsmiths, University of London, and master’s degrees in Global Politics (Royal Holloway) and Politics and Communication (LSE). Transcript Hello there and welcome to the Don’t Pretend We’re Dead podcast. I’m Karina Zappia and every episode I’ll be talking with women who are doing some really interesting work today in the field of advocacy, arts and culture, food, science and technology. The way I think of it is women who give me a shred of hope in these dark times and who doesn’t need a little bit more of that. Today, I’m talking with Dr. Hannah Zimmer, who is a disciplinary scholar interested in how cultural politics shapes sociotechnical systems, power and Internet governance, civic tech, community media and tech activisms. Currently, Hannah is a postdoctoral scholar working with the Internet Equity Initiative at the University of Chicago. where she’s examining community-based efforts to expand broadband and connectivity in the upper Midwest of the U.S. They’re also the co-editor and contributor of Internet to Colonized with Professor Marianne Franklin, which is coming out in 2026 by Oxford University Press. I first got to know Hannah when they were working as the editor and director of Media Diversified, a nonprofit which challenges the homogeneity of voices in UK news media through addressing the underrepresentation of marginalized communities. They also founded Bear Lit, an annual literature festival featuring writers of color in London. Welcome to the podcast, Hannah. How is Chicago treating you right now? So today the warm day for Chicago Windsor, it’s like two degrees and we had like snow to my knees, but now it’s snow to my like toes. So it’s pretty temperate. Nice. Very nice. It is. Warm and damp and wet in London, so you ain’t missing anything. So I wanted to start kind of at the present and work backward a bit. I’d love to learn more about the Internet Equity Initiative. I feel like technology is unperceived as making people’s lives easier and more connected, but clearly this isn’t the case when not everybody has equal access to the Internet. There’s this quote I read by the sociologist Ruha Benjamin, technology is not creating the problems, It is reflecting and amplifying and often hiding pre-existing forms of inequality and hierarchy, which I thought was really interesting. So I was wondering, yeah, if you could talk a little bit about University of Chicago’s Internet Equity Initiative a little bit, the goals of the initiative, how they’re carried out, the work you’re doing with them. Yeah, absolutely. I love Ruha Benjamin’s work, actually. Her book Race After Technology is excellent. And yeah, I think her quote that you just pulled up really goes to the heart of what the Internet Equity Initiative has noticed and is trying to therefore explore through research. And that is the inequalities and inequities that we see in society are reflected in the way that socio-technological systems work. I’d use that word socio-technological to emphasize something because sometimes when we’re talking about technology, it’s really easy to think of it as tools that are kind of separate and above and apart from society. But to say the social before the technical is to kind of emphasize that social relations, so humans, make those tools. And therefore, if there are things that affect us as humans, they are going to get in some way transported into whatever technology we produce but it’s also not just like a teen and tidy one-way relationship in that way that we design something and it exists in the world there’s a constant kind of like cycling so technology then has an impact on society that then impacts technology so their initiative initially started around the covid pandemic i think As someone who’s been researching internet access for a long time, it had kind of gone out of fashion to think about internet access because it was kind of like a passé problem. In the West and in wealthier nations, internet access had largely been taken care of for people in like urban centers. And so technology and tech-related research had become more involved with newer and sexier topics like big data and machine learning and AI. Obviously, internet access was still an issue for large swathes of the world, particularly if you don’t count mobile, right? Because mobile had changed the picture in that it had expanded very quickly from when we only could rely on wireline connection. So what they noticed is in the city of Chicago, over the COVID pandemic, there were neighborhoods and areas where people weren’t able to access online services that were really necessary at the time, like online education for kids…. Across the United States, it really put a spotlight on the issue of the fact that internet access was not available in all places and for all people. And it suddenly came really high up in the agenda. And so the Internet Equity Initiative started to explore in the city of Chicago, okay, where don’t we have internet and what does that reflect? And they did a study where they measured the quality of the internet on the South side. And for those who aren’t familiar, the setup in Chicago is... quite a divided city and it’s quite segregated. The north side is a little bit wealthier. The south side has had more neglect and underdevelopment and is also home to middle class and a range of African-American communities and then also a large Latinx community as well. And so those parts of liberty were experiencing worse internet performance. Through my research, I’ve seen that it’s more expensive to have internet in those parts of liberty. So then that really spurred on the wider project, which you mentioned that I’ve been working on over the last two years. Why was internet more expensive in those areas? Great question. There’s not a lot of transparency over ISP pricing protocols for internet packages. And generally what happens is you might sign up initially a package that you kind of understand and is a bit more transparent. And then we all experience these like silent negotiations about like what my upgrade is going to be. And so I remember a really stark case where I had gone to the west side of Chicago, which is another area that’s experienced some degree of neglect. And there was a person speaking there from an organizing group. And she was saying that she pays $75 for her internet package, which is pretty steep. And the quality isn’t very good. And she has a daughter that lives on the north side of the city. And the daughter was paying like something like $40. And so that just highlights to you like the real disparities that you have in terms of pricing. And it was with the same company. Interesting. What kind of data analysis did this initiative kind of look at? When it came to things like that or kind of mapping broadband, I was kind of curious a little bit about that. So the project is interesting in that it brings together the Data Science Institute at the University of Chicago and the Crown School of Public Policy. And so we’ve got principal investigator from the Data Science Institute, Professor Nick Feimster. And then we have a principal investigator from the Crown School of Public Policy and Nicole Marwell. And so you’ve got sociologists and a data scientist. And the data scientist in question had created this product, which is called Metrics. And it measures internet performance over time. And then if the internet connectivity drops off at any point, it was reporting that over time. And then sending that data directly back to the research group. who would then analyze it with geographic information or look at it longitudinally to see, okay, in the last two weeks, this person’s been paying to receive these speeds and they’ve only received those speeds 6% of the time. But they’ve been exploring because there’s certainly variables involved with internet connectivity, right? You’ve got different providers, different subscriptions that people might pay for, different devices that people have. One thing that they’ve been trying to figure out is when we do the analysis on that data, right? how to kind of bring it together in such a way that we can still take something from it. And that’s, like, I would say one of the main focuses for my colleagues who are data scientists has been what kind of sampling strategy can we use to, okay, say, like... Do we need to look at the census tract? Do we need to look at a neighborhood level? And it seems to be like from the research they’ve done so far that disparities exist either at a kind of micro level, like street level, or they exist at a county level. And you worked on some of the community-based efforts. Can you talk a little bit about that? So I am not a data scientist. I’m an ethnographer, creative researcher, participatory researcher. And so the project that I’ve been doing has involved looking at six sites, three of them in Illinois and three in Michigan, so those neighboring states. And two of those sites have been urban, the city of Detroit and the city of Chicago. And then two of them are suburban counties. And then two of them are rural areas. And in each of those places over the last couple of years, I’ve been visiting and meeting people essentially who have been, these are all places that have had their own kind of experience of trying to close gaps in internet connectivity over the last couple of years. And so I visited them. I’ve spent time with them. I’ve interviewed people there. to try and understand what have they done, what have been their experiences, policy initiatives by the federal government, which, you know, I mentioned earlier that COVID created this more attention. It also ended up in legislation that allocated a very large amount of funds towards broadband-based initiatives. And I’m using high-speed internet and broadband interchangeably here. At the time, they put $42 billion towards the goal of getting everyone in the country connected to the internet, a certain standard. And so the study kind of took this two-year period because it was like when this policy was kind of unfolding and to see how are these communities that we’ve selected experiencing that period and are they able to kind of make the changes that they want to make. Okay. I think what was interesting when I was reading your paper on internet featuring was I think something you had said was really interesting to me. You mentioned, although extremely costly, rural broadband expansion is far less politically fraught than addressing urban disparities in internet service, which are often entangled with race and have been shown to map onto historical patterns of discrimination. Okay, so there is a thesis out in... internet research land or digital redlining. And it comes up in, I think it’s mentioned in Ruha Benjamin’s book that you mentioned earlier and some other writers. There’s also been kind of counter research to say that digital redlining doesn’t exist, but a history of redlining for us. so redlining is in the us a process by which financial services were not offered to people in certain parts of cities and essentially they would take a map out and put red lines of areas they weren’t going to be serving and those were generally areas where black communities or other racialized communities were living so essentially a process of like financial racism which is also geospatially distributed And then that has had, obviously, legacy effects since it’s been happening. I mean, I think it was in the late 60s that it was outlawed as a practice, but it has continued to have persisting effects. And there’s been a thesis that digital redlining is the kind of result of that when it comes to internet-based services and internet access. there are parts of the urban areas where residents are predominantly from racialized or black communities and those people still have worse quality internet service than other surrounding areas that is potentially more costly or they actually don’t have access to internet access they don’t have access to internet through certain technologies So I should mention that there’s a kind of hierarchy of good technologies when it comes to connecting to the internet with a fiber optic being the best kind. It’s like very resilient. It gives you those really like super fast speeds that people advertise that comes from fiber optic. But in a lot of these areas, they’re still relying on wireless internet provision, which is provided by a tower. And obviously anything that comes in a non-wire based way is not as resilient and often doesn’t perform as well. Gotcha. And you mentioned digital redlining kind of ended in the 60s, but, you know, they’re still kind of feeling these after effects. Yeah. So the thesis is essentially that because of digital redlining, homes are less valued in those areas. There’s less infrastructure that’s been built in those areas. And then that has a kind of snowball effect. And so when it comes to putting Cables in the ground to connect people to high speed Internet. It’s a kind of like legacy effects of not having other kinds of infrastructure that leads to that infrastructure not being built as well. And even in my research. So I’ve spoken to ISPs in the city of Chicago. who have said, oh, we don’t want to build in certain parts of the city. And I’m talking about the South Side in particular, because we don’t think that people will be able to afford subscription or maintain their subscription. And that is... Is that not redlining? And I’ve had similar from my interviews with folks in the city of Detroit as well. Like in Detroit, there’s some very wealthy, predominantly white suburban locations and they have really good quality internet connectivity. But then as you go towards the city, the picture changes. And actually in Detroit, I think it was about 10 years ago, maybe 15 years ago, they started to create their own community-based networks to make up for the lack of infrastructure being built there. So in both cases, I think we do see instances of something that’s related to race playing out when it comes to the building and availability of internet infrastructure. Are there certain patterns that research-wise have kind of unfolded with some of the rural communities that you’ve noticed when it comes to internet inequity? The reason why I had written that it’s more politically fraught to talk about internet inequity in cities as against rural areas is also related to race because in cities, particularly the ones that I’m looking at, you know, Chicago and Detroit, there are very large black communities. To talk about the lack of internet provision, you have to talk about race. And so... The acknowledgement of race playing a role in this, it makes the discussion very politically fraught because even the acknowledgement of race, particularly in the current political climate, but I would say even beach ball, because I was also here last year, is difficult. And to say, okay, like historical patterns have led to this happening is difficult. Whereas when you’re trying to make the case for building infrastructure in rural areas, I’m not saying that there are not people of color in rural areas, but I’m talking about perception. And so race-based perception is less of an issue in those rural areas, but also there’s a very kind of like almost bland reasoning for the high cost of building infrastructure in rural areas. And that is the fact that they’re large and sparsely populated. And so, you know, when you’re saying we need to put money into building in those areas, it’s like, okay, well, yeah, makes sense. The kinds of, so I had two sites, two rural sites. One is right at the southern tip of Illinois. It’s Jackson County and their challenges there are quite interesting. So they have a lot of forest and they have a lot of rocky ground because I think they’re coming up to a mountain range. Putting fiber under the ground there is kind of difficult. and very expensive. And so they’ve had to live with wireless in rural parts of the county for a long time. At the same time, there’s one university town, Carbondale, that is very well served by fiber-based internet. And the market-based model for internet provision really relies on a provider being able to weigh up the money they’ll make in a small area that has a lot of people because you have to put a little bit of infrastructure to connect a lot of people. And the money that they can then they’ll have to spend to put infrastructure into a large area to serve fewer people. And so in that situation where you’ve already got fiber in arguably the more lucrative area, then the case becomes even more difficult to build there. So in the end, what they did is they got a cooperative provider. And they worked for the cooperative provider to apply for some government funding, which they received. They won the grant to start building fiber, actually aerial fiber. So it will be hanging from like poles around the rural parts of the county. But unfortunately, It requires them to have permission from landowners to be able to build through their land. And that permission has not been granted by many of the landowners in that part of Illinois. In Illinois, they need to have permission before they can build. And so they tried to write to people. They’ve tried to have community events where they give pizza and beer and chat to people about the benefits of fiber internet if they can just build over their land but yeah they just haven’t been able to i think the project’s installed for about a year now and they’ve put money into trying to get these permissions and they haven’t been able to do it i spoke to my one of my interviewees there who it works at an isp and she told me that if someone had said to her if you come on my land or if you send people on my land i will put a bullet in their head So that is the kind of sentiment they have about people building fiber internet. And so at the moment, it’s just stalled. Hey, guns. She says, coming from Texas, I’m kind of interested in something you said before. I never thought about, like, internet connectivity. But what you were saying about it being passé, why do you think it has become passé? It was a topic and now is no longer a topic. I’m kind of fascinated by that. I mean, I know we’re all chasing, you know, we’re all looking at AI, etc. But I am kind of a little bit curious about that. That’s a really good question. So... The reason why I think it became per se is there’s a researcher of the internet, his name is Gert Loving, and he is from the Netherlands, I believe. And he says that in internet studies, we’re obsessed with now, which is kind of like, isn’t essentially like a focus on what’s happening right now and like a forgetting of what happened before and just chasing the new, essentially the next big thing, just like you said with AI. And so... When it comes to even like grant funding, like a lot of the research grants that I’ve been looking at focus on AI now or research positions or postdocs are focusing on AI. And so like the hype cycle of technology really pulls us in that direction. So I think that’s one reason. Another reason is... So here in the US and in many countries around the world, the predominant model for the proliferation of internet connectivity is through the market. It’s kind of like, how do you hold companies accountable for not wanting to do something? The problem here is that internet connectivity is, or should have been, a utility, just like other utilities like smartphone and water. But because it is not legislated in that way, companies will go where they can make money. And so, you know, there’s kind of an accountability vacuum there where people who don’t have connectivity available in their area, what are they going to do? Petition AT&T and say, hey, can you build some infrastructure here? It’s difficult for them to hold that accountability. And so what people have ended up doing is... And also these are areas that are kind of... really experiencing several different kinds of neglect when it comes to infrastructure. And so internet is not always on the top of their list in terms of like trying to advocate for internet connectivity. Plus they’re used to not getting infrastructure like everybody else around them. That kind of combination of factors means like difficulty for self-advocating, being used to not having things. Finding workarounds with mobile internet and then the hype cycle. And I think all of those things come in. And then like the market-based model and not being able to get accountability from companies means that it just kind of fell out of public consciousness in some ways. Not for the people that experience it, of course, but even they don’t have a route to like try and get internet. Interesting. I’m curious, you mentioned open access infrastructure. I’m curious, and you’d said as a model for internet deployment, open access remains at the fringes in the United States. Can you talk a little bit more about that? First of all, what it is and how it could help? Open access. is a model that essentially at the moment in the United States, what happens is I build a bit of internet infrastructure and then I serve my customers on that internet infrastructure. And so like the cables are mine and then the service is mine. Open access would be a different model. And I think it’s like, Potentially, like one of the biggest markets for open access is in Sweden. So look to that if you’re interested in finding out more. But essentially, it means that the infrastructure could be publicly built and then different carriers can be using that infrastructure to provide service. And so I think mobile phones are a good example of actually how this works, where, you know, the towers, the cell phone towers are not like all owned by one company. The cell phone towers are generally owned by either other companies or publicly owned. And then they are shared. You can have one provider, like all lots of providers using the same infrastructure. The positive thing around that is if it’s publicly owned infrastructure, when it is built, The cost cutting kind of incentive that happens with private providers is kind of curtailed. And that’s important because at the moment, like I said, $42 billion of public money is going to go into making infrastructure. But who’s going to own that infrastructure at the end? Private companies. They have the guarantee that it works for 10 years, only 10 years. And then after that, it doesn’t really matter too much. They’ll do the cheapest option. It won’t have as much resilience in it. And then they will be the only ones that can provide service on it. And so even if they’re really terrible, and you know, ISPs have some of the lowest consumer ratings in this country. And also in the UK, there’s not a lot of alternatives often. You can have one or the other. If you’re lucky, if you’re in a major urban center, you might have a few. But there’ll be some people who don’t really have an option and then they’ll just be stuck with it. And so it gives consumer choice in a model, in an imperfect capitalist model. The least we can do is have market competition, right? That’s the way it’s supposed to work. If we’re not even going to have that, then it’s not going to work. Yeah, but clearly it’s less money for them. So they’re, as you said, they’re not quite warming to the idea. Less money for them. And also they’re used to doing business that way. So I had a research participant in Michigan and they have actually used public money to build their own infrastructure. And they’re now looking for providers that’s going to use the infrastructure to give service to customers. providers have just not been able to compute. They’re just like, we want to buy your infrastructure. And then say, no, we want to keep the infrastructure, but you provide service on it. And they have said that those conversations have actually gotten quite aggressive because providers are just not willing to move. Because once they, the fear that they have is that if they give on this point, the market will move in that direction. I would like to switch and talk about the book you have coming out. You co-edited Internet Decolonized. It’s coming out early next year. For those of us who are unfamiliar, what does it mean to decolonize the Internet? That’s what the book is about. That’s the question we’re asking. I think... Without summarizing the entire book... We don’t have an answer, so that’s a spoiler alert. But it’s an edited volume and there are 11 different chapters and each of the writers uses different histories and genealogies of thinkers to tackle the question. When the internet was first offered up to us, It had this kind of image attached to it of equalizing global information and communications in some way that like when we’re on the internet, we can do things we haven’t been able to do before. It closes gaps. It’s a place of opportunity. That is kind of like the early internet was very much cyber libertarianism was the way of thinking about it. It was all about how it’s a new space. You remember the term cyberspace? It’s like a new space. But what’s come to pass is I think we’ve all realized the internet doesn’t just suddenly erase social inequality. Yeah. What a kind of decolonizing way of looking at the internet. What it achieves is it connects the internet, which is still, historically speaking, a fairly new technology, with broader histories of European coloniality. And by doing that, it takes away what I mentioned earlier, which is this kind of technological focus that dehistoricizes and says, okay, actually there were existing power relations happening in the world that the internet emerged from and works within and reproduces in certain ways. And so the question for us in the book is, okay, can those power inequalities be changed? Can the internet be reformed, as it were, so that it serves... everyone’s needs or more people’s needs or changes those power dynamics or actually because it emerged from that modern and colonial past and military history in fact and because it emerged in the wealthy West Europe and North America and because it is still characterized by inequality when it comes to not the different aspects but control and like profit for sure Can it even be salvaged? Or maybe like this internet is not a workable internet. I know you did a lot of working with and talking with kind of youth and feminist activists in Asia and Africa. Was wondering if you could talk a little bit about that. And did that kind of feed into your chapter on internet featuring? Sounds like. For sure. So actually, when I went into the research, I had read about how Facebook, this was back in 2015. Back a long time. Facebook had started to provide internet access for free as part of people’s mobile plan in different parts of the world. This is leading some blowback because it was... thought to be kind of breaking one of the cardinal rules of the internet, which is that all data on the internet should be treated the same. It’s a principle of net neutrality. And so there were, in India in particular, a discourse kind of emerged in counter to that, which was saying, this is digital colonialism. We have an American corporation coming here and controlling our internet. And obviously this discourse really landed like something that was, you know, net neutrality became like a movement across the country where, and obviously it landed in India because it is a post-colonial nation. And so I read about that and I was really struck by, okay, actually, at the time I was a journalist and I was running Media Diversified, this online publication for writers of colour. And I was also thinking like, okay, we’re putting all this stuff into the world, but really when it comes to power... When it comes to controlling who gained value from a lot of this material, it’s definitely not the writers. I don’t see a distribution of power coming from publishing these things or being on the internet. Actually, I see a movement towards more centralization of power in certain ways in a new form on the internet. And so I went into my research with youth and feminist activists with that in mind, very much like a domination kind of narrative. But then that research really changed how I looked at it because that perspective doesn’t give agency to all of the people that are using the internet or trying to rethink the internet or trying to do the internet their own way. And that’s what I found with those activists is They have their own agendas of what works for them and their communities, and they are pursuing them. Sometimes that is in line with this kind of like dominant, market-based, Western-controlled view of the internet, but sometimes it’s not. I’m very interested by what it means to do the internet your way, which is what I was alluding to earlier when I said those communities in the United States, which are finding their own ways to connect. Gotcha. Looking at their own different possibilities of futures, different futures. Yeah, for sure. Are there any books you could, I mean, we’ve talked about Race After Technology by Ruva Benjamin. Are there any other books you could recommend for people who are interested in this area, want to learn a little bit more and kind of what’s going on right now? So on... Internet kind of governance at the global level. I really recommend the work of my co-editor, Professor Marianne Franklin. She wrote a book, which is honestly like fairly prophetic back in 2013 for Digital Dilemmas. And it’s one that I go back to a lot. And then I think out in the kind of on the Internet, there are some really interesting tech that are not necessarily like published books, but I really recommend because When I was talking about cyber libertarianism, there is John Perry Barlow’s Declaration of Independent Fiberspace. which is a foundational document for how the early internet was envisaged. And then since then, other entities have tried to create their own principles for what the internet should be, which are in line with different kinds of politics. And so there’s the feminist principles of the internet, which was created by a coalition of activists, and they work with the Association for Progressive Communication. And so I like looking at those kind of values documents because I think They show what people want the internet to be in the future. Books that I cite a lot for ideas around like colonialism and the internet is Nanjala Nyabola’s book. What is it? Digital Analog Politics, Digital Democracy. Those words are all in the title, but I can’t remember in what order. I was just going to say, but that book is great because it’s located in Kenya. And the argument she makes is that there are things that are happening in parts of the world where people are not paying enough attention. And that’s where places where, like, these power plays get practiced. So Cambridge Analytica did stuff in Nigeria and Kenya before it did anything in Europe and North America. And so she said, like, these are kind of practice zones. And that’s a similar argument to the one made by an academic called Miriam Raghu. who wrote a book in 2012 called Palestine Online. And again, talks about this kind of like experimentation in parts of the majority world that ends up affecting people everywhere. Yeah, I read a little bit about that with, what is it, how to stand up to a dictator and the things that were done in the Philippines. I was kind of curious what you have coming up in the future. I know you have an art exhibit in Oregon. Tell us a little bit about that. yeah so that’s going to be an installation and the whole kind of like the idea behind the work is it’s an exhibition called bodies of knowledge and so i do work as an ethnographer and that involves going to places spending time with people and essentially like getting to know something that is of interest for research and um I’m also very interested in the idea of technology as we’ve discussed. And so in that exhibition, I’m exploring my body as a technology of knowledge creation. And so like the ways in which the kind of functions that I have to have as an ethnographer to be able to produce knowledge and the kinds of works that I have I have a series of sound vessels which are made from clay. They’re ceramic. And they are essentially objects that you put to your ear. And the resonance from the air around you produces some noise. Think of a seashell. And the idea is that it reflects whatever’s in the room at the time. And so if there’s a lot of people in the room, it’s going to produce a resonance of the sounds that they’re producing, but also they’re going to change the air quality and the humidity and everything in the room. And also the shape of the object itself, the vessel, and all the things that the vessel has been through also shapes what you hear. And so that’s about how things pass through me. when i’m doing the research and then we also have different clay objects that have cyanotype on them which is a type of ink that when you expose it to sunlight areas that are exposed change color and areas that are covered do not and so it gives you kind of like a what people call a sun print and I’d use those as part of the process. And actually during firing, that colour burns out. But that’s really about like... When I’m going through the research process and I’m then analyzing, I don’t know, some transcription or some field notes, like the initial images often burned out, but it’s what comes on top of it that ends up being what’s seen by people. It’s obviously been through a process during that time. And then there’s some objects about indexing, which are stacks of tiles, essentially. They have different things on the edges and different things on the tops. And that helps you think about indexing. So it’s basically like bodies of knowledge really is a... It takes you through the entire ethnographic process and shows different aspects of that knowledge making through the body and tries to help reflect on what that involves. Cool. I wish I could see. Where is it in Portland? It’s going to be at the University of Oregon in Portland. Nice. There’s this last question that I ask everybody. So this podcast is basically just born of my desire to talk to a cool girl and I meet them and find out what they’re doing. And it’s because it’s a joy in my life. So one question I always ask people at the end is, if there was a woman you could meet, you know, talk to, living or dead, basically, who would it be and what would you ask them about? That’s a big question. That’s a big question, right? Yeah. But I think that I, in terms of my family history, so my family’s been displaced a few times by British colonialism, essentially. And so I didn’t get to learn a lot about my own family history because of that. And my grandparents all died when I was, either before I was born or when I was very, very small. So even being able to talk to a great grandparent A great grandmother would be amazing because like, I don’t know anything about these people. And yeah, that’s a bit of me. And I don’t know. I wish I could go back and talk to, yeah, my aunt, my grandmother, a lot of different people. Oh, thanks a lot. Yeah. Thank you so much for talking with me today. I think that’s it for today’s episode. I am Karina Zappia, and you’ve been listening to the Don’t Pretend We’re Dead podcast today with myself and Dr. Hannah Zimmerd-Butt. Links to what we were talking about today are going to be available on my Substack page for this podcast. at don’tpretendweredead.substack.com. You can also subscribe there to learn about new podcast episodes coming up. And we’ve got some really cool people I’m super psyched to talk to in the new year. Thanks for listening. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit dontpretendweredead.substack.com [https://dontpretendweredead.substack.com?utm_medium=podcast&utm_campaign=CTA_1]

12. jan. 2026 - 38 min
episode “As a black trans woman, I'm painfully aware that conforming is not an option” cover

“As a black trans woman, I'm painfully aware that conforming is not an option”

On this episode: Trans Legal Clinic [https://www.translegalclinic.com/] founder Olivia Campbell-Cavendish on why the April 15 UK Supreme Court ruling affects all women. For each episode of the Don’t Pretend We’re Dead podcast, I’ll be talking with women doing cool work right now in the fields of advocacy, arts, culture, food, journalism, science and technology. Let’s meet them together. Subscribe for free to learn about new episodes. Trans and non-binary rights organizations you can donate to: Trans Legal Clinic’s Crowdfunder for McCloud vs. United Kingdom (UK) [https://www.translegalclinic.com/mccloud] Mermaids (UK) [https://mermaidsuk.org.uk/] TransActual (UK) [https://transactual.org.uk/] Transgender Law Center [https://transgenderlawcenter.org/] (US) Advocates for Trans Equality [https://transequality.org/] (US) About Olivia Campbell Cavendish Olivia Campbell-Cavendish [https://www.oliviacampbellcavendish.com/] is a human rights lawyer and the founder of the Trans Legal Clinic. She made history as the first black trans lawyer in the UK (Garden Court Chambers, 2025). She has briefed MPs in Parliament on the human-rights implications of recent Supreme Court rulings affecting trans people and has served as part of the legal team supporting Dr Victoria McCloud’s application to the European Court of Human Rights. She is an ambassador for Stonewall Housing and was recognised by National Student Pride as ‘Activist of the Year.’ This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit dontpretendweredead.substack.com [https://dontpretendweredead.substack.com?utm_medium=podcast&utm_campaign=CTA_1]

22. okt. 2025 - 39 min
episode Using food "as a lens to interrogate power" cover

Using food "as a lens to interrogate power"

On this episode: Talking with Isabela Bonnevera and Zoë Johnson, the founding editors of Feminist Food Journal [https://www.feministfoodjournal.com/], about building a publication that explores everything from the exploitation of women in dairy production to the politics of party food. For each episode of the Don’t Pretend We’re Dead podcast, I’ll be talking with women doing really cool work right now in the fields of advocacy, arts, culture, food, journalism, science and technology. Let’s meet them together. Subscribe for free to learn about new episodes. Mentioned in this episode with Isabela Bonnevera and Zoë Johnson: Articles from Feminist Food Journal: Green, Lira. 2025.“My Trans Body Longs for Love and Salt: Does difference in taste mean difference in love?” Issue #08 - Body. 3-part Series: Part 1: Pickle Cravings. [https://www.feministfoodjournal.com/p/my-trans-body-longs-for-love-and] Part 2: Comfort Food [https://www.feministfoodjournal.com/p/my-trans-body-longs-for-love-and-3ec]. Part 3: Sharing Meals [https://www.feministfoodjournal.com/p/comfort-food]. (Note: Released since podcast was recorded.) “Our recipes tell the world that we exist: Introducing Palestinian food writer Lama Obeid." 2025. Letter from the Editors. [https://www.feministfoodjournal.com/p/our-recipes-tell-the-world-that-we?utm_source=publication-search] Isaac, Rejoice. 2024. Where Does All the Food Go?: [https://www.feministfoodjournal.com/p/where-does-all-the-food-go] https://www.feministfoodjournal.com/p/where-does-all-the-food-goOn body size and Nigerian beauty standards, Issue #08 - Body. [https://www.feministfoodjournal.com/p/where-does-all-the-food-go] Jones, Megan. 2022. “An Oyster’s Burden: Why are we still using food to represent female and queer desire on screen?,” Issue #03 - Sex. [https://www.feministfoodjournal.com/p/an-oysters-burden] Overstreet, Katy. 2022.“Be the Boar: Sex, sows, and courtship on a Danish pig farm,” Issue #03 - Sex. [https://www.feministfoodjournal.com/p/being-the-boar] Sripathi, Apoorva. 2022. “Milking Bodies to Make a Nation: Women and the bovine as founding mothers.” Issue #01 - Milk. [https://www.feministfoodjournal.com/p/milking-bodies-to-make-a-nation] Gitlin, Lauren. 2022. “The Childless Mothers: Motherhood, extraction, and the value of the female body on a Vermont goat farm.” Issue #01 - Milk. [https://www.feministfoodjournal.com/p/the-childless-mothers] Other writing they recommend: Taylor, Sunaura. 2017. [https://thenewpress.org/books/beasts-of-burden/]Beasts of Burden: Animal and Disability Liberation [https://thenewpress.org/books/beasts-of-burden/]. The New Press. [https://thenewpress.org/books/beasts-of-burden/] Obeid, Lama. I Come From There (Substack). [https://lamaobeid.substack.com/] About Isabela Bonnevera, Founding Editor of Feminist Food Journal: Isabela is a PhD candidate at BCNUEJ [https://www.bcnuej.org/] and ICTA-UAB [https://www.uab.cat/icta/], where she examines how urban food policies impact food justice for immigrant communities using community-engaged methods. She also works as an independent consultant on food policy issues. She has a Master’s degree in Public Policy and International Affairs from the Hertie School of Governance, a postgraduate certificate in food systems studies from Toronto Metropolitan University, and a Bachelor of Arts (Hons) in Sociology and Journalism from the University of Victoria. About Zoë Johnson, Founding Editor of Feminist Food Journal: Zoë has an academic background in gender equality, food systems, and international development, and experience working in research, publishing, communications, and consulting. Her work for FFJ has recently been honoured with a Zelda Award for my design and illustration work and she was selected to participate in the 2023 Break Fellowship for Women Entrepreneurs. She is a graduate of the MPhil in Development Studies at Oxford's Department of International Development and holds a BSc in Global Resource Systems from the University of British Columbia where she studied food systems, with a regional focus on South Asia. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit dontpretendweredead.substack.com [https://dontpretendweredead.substack.com?utm_medium=podcast&utm_campaign=CTA_1]

10. juli 2025 - 36 min
episode "I realized why this harmful side of beauty culture isn't really talked about” cover

"I realized why this harmful side of beauty culture isn't really talked about”

On this episode: Talking with Guardian “Ask Ugly” columnist and beauty critic Jessica DeFino on why it's hard to challenge the beauty industry, the slick rebranding of skincare as self-care, concerning beauty trends right now and more. For each episode of the Don’t Pretend We’re Dead podcast, I’ll be talking with women doing really cool work right now in the fields of advocacy, arts, culture, food, journalism, science and technology. Let’s meet them together. Subscribe for free to learn about new episodes. Mentioned in this episode with Jessica DeFino: Articles by DeFino: “Plumpgasm Nudegasm: The small absurdities of Met Gala beauty,” [https://jessicadefino.substack.com/p/met-gala-beauty-2025-review]The Review of Beauty [https://jessicadefino.substack.com/p/met-gala-beauty-2025-review], May 9, 2025. [https://jessicadefino.substack.com/p/met-gala-beauty-2025-review] “Are we heading for a beauty burnout?,” [http://Are we heading for a beauty burnout?]Vogue Business [http://Are we heading for a beauty burnout?], April 14, 2025. [http://Are we heading for a beauty burnout?] “ [https://jessicadefino.substack.com/p/the-substance-review]The Substance [https://jessicadefino.substack.com/p/the-substance-review] Is A Fairy Tale (But So Is Beauty),” [https://jessicadefino.substack.com/p/the-substance-review]The Review of Beauty [https://jessicadefino.substack.com/p/the-substance-review], March 25, 2025. [https://jessicadefino.substack.com/p/the-substance-review] “Post-Election, Beware 'Self-Care': [https://jessicadefino.substack.com/p/2024-self-care-boom-trump] https://jessicadefino.substack.com/p/2024-self-care-boom-trumpWould Audre Lorde recognize "self-care" today? Would we recognize her?”, [https://jessicadefino.substack.com/p/2024-self-care-boom-trump]The Review of Beauty [https://jessicadefino.substack.com/p/2024-self-care-boom-trump], November 15, 2024. [https://jessicadefino.substack.com/p/2024-self-care-boom-trump] “EAT ME,” [https://jessicadefino.substack.com/p/dewy-dumpling-skin]The Review of Beauty [https://jessicadefino.substack.com/p/dewy-dumpling-skin], October 8, 2023. [https://jessicadefino.substack.com/p/dewy-dumpling-skin] “I Worked My Ass Off for the Kardashian-Jenner Apps. I Couldn’t Afford Gas.”, [https://www.vice.com/en/article/i-worked-my-ass-off-for-kim-kardashian-jenner-apps-i-couldnt-afford-gas-jessica-defino/]Vice [https://www.vice.com/en/article/i-worked-my-ass-off-for-kim-kardashian-jenner-apps-i-couldnt-afford-gas-jessica-defino/], April 12, 2022. [https://www.vice.com/en/article/i-worked-my-ass-off-for-kim-kardashian-jenner-apps-i-couldnt-afford-gas-jessica-defino/] Nonprofit groups to donate to: Transgender Law Center [https://transgenderlawcenter.org/] Slow Factory [https://slowfactory.earth/] The BeautyWell Project [https://thebeautywell.org/] Book recommendations: Thick [https://thenewpress.org/books/thick/] by Tressie McMillan Cottom [https://thenewpress.org/books/thick/] Ugly Feelings [https://www.hup.harvard.edu/books/9780674024090] by Sianne Ngai [https://www.hup.harvard.edu/books/9780674024090] Disobedient Bodies [https://wellcomecollection.org/books/disobedient-bodies]by Emma Dabiri [https://wellcomecollection.org/books/disobedient-bodies] Ugly [https://www.anitabhagwandas.com/home/author] by Anita Bhagwandas [https://www.anitabhagwandas.com/home/author] Girl on Girl [https://www.hachette.co.uk/titles/sophie-gilbert/girl-on-girl/9781399812344/]by Sophie Gilbert [https://www.hachette.co.uk/titles/sophie-gilbert/girl-on-girl/9781399812344/] About Jessica DeFino Jessica DeFino is the award-winning beauty reporter and critic who writes the Guardian US’s beauty advice column, Ask Ugly [https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/series/ask-ugly], and has been called "the woman the beauty industry fears" by the Sunday Herald. In addition to her column in the Guardian, Jessica also writes a newsletter, The Review of Beauty [https://jessicadefino.substack.com/], and has a monthly podcast with fellow fashion critic Emily Kirkpatrick, called The Review of Mess [https://jessicadefino.substack.com/podcast], which takes a critical look at the dregs of pop culture. Jessica started The Review of Beauty “to cover what traditional beauty publications don’t, won’t, or can’t — whether that’s to appease advertisers, preserve brand relationships, or cling to the conventional wisdom, outdated ideals, and marketing myths that keep consumers consuming.” Her freelance reporting has appeared in The New York Times, The Sunday Times, Vogue, Allure and more. Thanks for reading Don't Pretend We're Dead! Subscribe for free to receive new posts and support my work. Transcript Hi there. Welcome to the Don't Pretend We're Dead podcast. I'm Karina Zappian. Every episode, I'll be talking with women who are doing some really cool work today in the fields of advocacy, the arts, culture, food, science, and technology. The way I think of it is women who give me a shred of hope in these dark times.And who doesn't need a little bit more of that these days? Today I'm talking with Jessica DeFino, the award-winning beauty reporter and critic who writes the Guardian Beauty Advice column, Ask Ugly, and has been called the woman the beauty industry fears by the Sunday Herald. In addition to her column in The Guardian, 0:35 Jessica also writes a weekly-ish newsletter, The Review of Beauty, and has a monthly podcast with fellow fashion critic Emily Kirkpatrick called The Review of Mess, which takes a critical look at the dregs of pop culture. In her writing, Jessica takes on everything from the body horror of the wedding industry to the 0:55 double standards we set for gap-toothed celebrities we admire versus our own harsh expectations of teeth perfection. I first fell in love with Jessica's writing when I read a term she coined cosmetic cannibalism. our curious desire to consume beauty products that make us more consumable ourselves. 1:12 And my love for her work only grew when I read her take on the movie The Substance, which she regards as a feminist fairy tale, but that, a quote from her, its reflection of the conditions of women's oppression has been repeatedly mistaken for endorsement. 1:28 And so I really love that explanation for why some people are regarding it as anti-feminist. So Jessica is a bit busy these days, but has kindly accepted our invite to join us on Don't Pretend We're Dead, which we are very excited by. Hello, Jessica, and welcome to the podcast. 1:44 Hi, thank you so much for having me. I'm very excited to be here. 1:47 Awesome. I'm just going to get into it. What I often find interesting is some of the absurdist humor that can be pumped from this topic of writing about beauty in which I feel like you're really excellent at leaning into. The Met Gala is always, of course, such a rich source, 2:03 which struck me more than anything with your take on the Met Gala this year was not the writing on Zendaya or Doja Cat, but on Walter Goggins. yeah when you said if sabrina carpenter is an example of effort sold as effortlessness walton goggins is an example of effortlessness sold as effort yeah 2:23 and then you mentioned that his stylist wanted to create an unexpected look for the met gala and so what you mentioned was what's unexpected is not goggins's hairstyle which looks roughly the same as it did when he played a rugged and greasy-haired character on The White Lotus, but the work that went into it, 2:41 and then you go ahead on to proceed and list it, $250 worth of Moroccan oil products, including the shampoo, conditioner, detangler, volumizing mist, volumizing mousse, texture spray, texture clay, and hairspray. So I think of this a lot with some celebrities. I honestly often think about this when I look at Jarvis Cocker. 3:01 This is a man who used to keep journals on the exact brands of coat he wanted to wear in his band Pulp. So I can't imagine that this doesn't somehow extend to his disheveled hair routine that he has now in whatever 60s or 70s celebrity he's clearly modeling after. So I wanted to ask you, 3:17 does this often happen that many celebrities often spend a ton of time and money to look disheveled or something? They do. 3:27 I think so. I think the disheveled look is an aesthetic like any other and it can come from like pure effortlessness, of course, but especially in the celebrity sphere, particularly on a red carpet and especially Especially like at the Met Gala, that sort of disheveled appearance is actually a very studied, 3:47 a studied version of it that's actually meticulously crafted to seem as if it's messy when it's very precisely done. 3:56 Very, very precise. Good to know. Yeah, often kind of one of this because there's such a focus on women. It's the no makeup makeup, but I imagine there is quite the equivalent with men. So I just thought that was pretty amusing. Yeah. You also said something really interesting, and you had a recent article in Vogue Business. 4:13 And I thought this to me was really interesting, that in times of crisis such as today, instead of you would think like the average beauty routine constricting, we're in kind of this time of huge political upheaval. But you said it actually expands in direct proportion to political upheaval, what you called the aesthetic index. 4:32 And I didn't even think about this, but you mentioned during the Great Recession 2007-2008, The financial crisis coincided with the arrival of Keeping Up with the Kardashians, which I didn't even put those together. But what also particularly interested me was COVID. I've always thought COVID is this time where we just let the beauty go, couldn't see. 4:52 Everybody talks about, I stopped wearing a bra, I stopped wearing a bra after that, whatever. But you actually mentioned... I was wondering if you could talk about this a little bit, that people were actually pretty focused, fixated on beauty code. 5:05 Yeah. The beauty industry saw a huge growth during COVID. Maybe not the first month of lockdowns and precautions, but after that... Yeah, I think everyone was feeling very out of control. And as I put forth in that Vogue business piece, usually in times of like political upheaval, when everything feels out of control, 5:29 the closest thing we have that makes us feel like we're in control of something is our bodies. So people tend to use more products, buy more things, try to meet particular beauty standards. Yeah. When they're feeling out of control politically or socially or economically, because it's OK, this is the one thing that like I own. 5:51 I am in control of my body. I think the big cosmic joke is that, of course, we are not like the products that we're using and the standards that we're trying to meet are like we're culturally coerced to want those products and meet those standards. So it's not quite the thing. 6:05 this display of control that we might feel it is. But yeah, during COVID, it was a big rebrand from beauty to self-care. So a lot of skincare was now being marketed as self-care, as part of a healthcare routine. We took a lot of things. It stopped mattering about what things looked like necessarily in the marketing and 6:25 more about how they would feel or make you feel. We also saw in the years following COVID, a huge fragrance boom, which I think is a big part of this shift from the Visual marketing. How will you appear if you use this product to like feelings based marketing or 6:42 nostalgia based marketing is how will you feel if you use this product? And then we also had this sort of mass migration online into Zoom rooms, just like we are now where people were suddenly confronted with their own experiences. mirror image on the screen all day every day when normally in the workplace you're 7:01 not forced to look at yourself in a mirror as you talk and people developed this real hyperfixation on what they looked like and their perceived flaws and were going not only to Sephora and Ulta or the drugstore and getting skincare and makeup to work on or correct these perceived flaws, 7:20 but also going into cosmetic injectors offices and plastic surgeons offices and saying, OK, I can see things that I don't like and I don't want to see them anymore. And choosing to go like the semi-permanent or permanent route to be confronted with an image that they liked a little bit more on Zoom. 7:39 So this was kind of a little bit after lockdown when people started going into it. 7:43 Yeah, I would say like 2021, 2022. 7:47 It makes sense. I just saw my dentist and I was like, I never noticed this with my teeth. And there I am thinking about Invisalign because I've seen myself on videos all day long for work. So I guess, yeah, you just look at your personal self. It does make sense. But yeah, it is interesting. 8:03 And there was like a misappropriation of an Audre Lorde quote, wasn't there? 8:07 Oh, yeah. And I think the big quote that like started circulating, I would say after like 2016, I The election, the first election of Donald Trump, a lot of people were circulating these activist quotes, one in particular from Audre Lorde that said self. What is the quote exactly? 8:27 It's like self caring for myself is an act of self-preservation. It's an act of political warfare, something along those lines. And. That is very true. We need to care for ourselves in order to be the best political activists and most effective political activists that we can be. 8:44 But the beauty industry really took the popularity of that quote and ran with it and just sort of inserted the word skincare instead of self-care and really imbued, yeah, the beauty space with this sort of liberatory political potential that I don't think it actually has and I don't think it's actually lived up to in the years since. 9:06 I was wondering how all of these things got so well combined, so smoothly. I don't know. They're very good at what they do. 9:14 Oh, my gosh. Yeah. I think the industry is partly good at what they do because a lot of people in the industry... I think are very well-intentioned and are just repeating these beauty culture ideas that we're all taught like almost from the moment of our birth, these cultural messages that your beauty is your worth. 9:36 And when you look as beautiful as possible, you will be treated better. Like those things are true. I just don't think they're the things that we want to hinder political activism on and say, if people treat me better when I'm beautiful, being beautiful is actually great for me. It's OK. 9:53 Maybe let's look at what are the underlying factors there. And can we change that? Can we direct our energy toward changing the world to better reflect our bodies versus changing our bodies to fit into the world? 10:06 No, that totally makes sense. I did have a question. So I know that previously you used to work on the Kardashian-Jenner apps, like all five of the Kardashian, Kourtney, Kim, Khloe, Kylie, whatever, Kendall. And I know that's an experience you wrote about for Vice magazine. 10:22 I know you've written for a lot of beauty and fashion publications in the past. What made you decide to turn more of a critical eye towards the beauty industry? Was there a certain event, a certain kind of confluence events? 10:33 Mm-hmm. There were so many things. I think it was like a lesson that I had to learn over and over again in different ways. But I think the first like glimmers of something being amiss in beauty culture that I was very much a part of was one working. 10:51 It was a company called Whale Rock Industries that ran these apps with the sister. So working at Whale Rock. And working on the Kardashian-Jenner apps, it was the first time in my career that I'd been on the receiving end of beauty PR. So I was getting a ton of free products, the top of the line products, 11:05 products I had lusted after my entire adult life, like La Mer. Oh, my goodness. Yes, exactly. And so that felt very exciting. And of course, I used all of the products. I was obsessed with all of the products. And my skin steadily grew like worse and worse over time. It was extremely reactive. It was red. 11:25 It was peeling. It was dry. It was oily. It was oozing. I developed contact dermatitis, I think, from a combination of just like overuse of products and also just being in a high stress environment. Stress also really affects your skin. And was prescribed topical steroids for the dermatitis, had a horrible reaction to the topical steroids, 11:45 was just like thrown into this like this space where my skin was like literally peeling off of my face. My skin was so sensitive. I couldn't even splash it with water without it burning. And I was sort of forced to go through this almost like recalibration phase where I 11:59 couldn't put anything on my face in order to let it heal for a couple of weeks at a time. And having to go out in public like that, not having the shield of beauty products that I had used in my life up until then, really did a number on me. I felt absolutely worthless. 12:15 I felt like I did not deserve to be seen. I did not deserve to date. I did not deserve to be at work, to have this career. And that really got me thinking because I was like, wait, what else have I built up in my life? 12:29 What other sense of like self or self-worth do I have without beauty if not feeling beautiful for this number of weeks that I have to go through in order to heal my skin is enough to make me feel like my life is not even worth living. Like something is seriously wrong here. 12:43 Like I've invested way too much in like the aesthetics of life and not enough in the experience of life. And that was my first little wake-up call to start thinking a little bit more deeply and a little bit more critically about the beauty industry. And, yeah, 12:57 I eventually pivoted into freelance beauty reporting to try and explore some of these topics. And then in the reporting and trying to get these articles placed at mainstream publications, I quickly realized why this sort of harmful side of beauty and beauty culture isn't really talked about, and that's because the beauty media is dependent on beauty advertisers. And so there's this almost inherently corrupt relationship there that really makes it challenging to talk about beauty in a more critical way. Which kind of fueled my fire, I would say. 13:30 Yeah, no, that leads into my next question. I do feel there's, I know you started the review of beauty newsletter to explore how the current beauty culture impacts us physically and mentally. And yeah, I noticed there's not a ton of critics who do what you do on such an ongoing basis. 13:46 Occasionally there will be a book here or there critiquing the beauty industry or existing trends, but somebody like you who does it weekly on a weekly basis and looks at it that often is very rare and very valuable to me. What do you think is the advantage of doing this work on a more regular basis than 14:03 turning out an occasional book, that kind of thing? 14:07 I mean, I would love to do both. I'm sure you'll be there. Working on that book and it is a much more difficult and lengthy process than anticipated. Yeah, I think being able to have this like ongoing conversation is is really helpful because it's not just looking at sort of the broad strokes. 14:26 I'm writing this newsletter right now, and I'm also working on a book, so I can kind of compare and contrast. And I think when I'm looking at book material, I'm almost tempted to do these sort of look at things from a more like zoomed out, overarching perspective. And sometimes the specifics get lost. 14:43 And I think in beauty industry, the specifics are actually very complex. compelling and when something is like happening in the moment and I can take a look at it and take it apart with a critical eye something that might not seem like it's 14:58 as big of a deal something that I want to put in a book format a product launch with a product name that I find abhorrent or something like that like it might not feel important enough overall to fit into that book but it feels like 15:13 timely enough and of the moment enough and interesting enough to put into a weekly newsletter. And I think, yeah, I think the specifics help readers identify these larger overarching themes of beauty culture in like our day to day lives. Whereas when you read a book, sometimes there are I don't know, 15:34 a lot of the books that I've read on beauty culture, I find them completely inspiring and also hard to apply in an everyday sense because there's like this push-pull of, okay, yeah, I know beauty culture is harmful or the beauty industry is manipulative, 15:48 but how do I navigate that in my everyday life when I feel like I want to buy this product or what's the harm in adopting a tend-to-step skincare routine or something, you know? So I'm trying to like bridge that gap between, yeah, zoomed out analysis and commentary and making it applicable to day-to-day situations. 16:10 I think one thing you're really great at is bringing in, putting it in this larger, it's not easy to do, putting it in this larger historical and social context and also adding the dialogue of other writers writing about beauty and putting in a lot of the financials attached to it, etc. 16:30 And bringing all of these together is, I think, such a great skill set you have. What I was wondering was, we talked about these, you were talking about some of the books you're reading, and sometimes it's hard to find that more practical day-to-day application. Are there any books about beauty that you regularly fall back? 16:46 I know everybody talks about the beauty myth, but I think that's the one I've read, but beyond the beauty myth, if there's any recommendations you have about ones that you're like, this is really... 16:57 Yes, so many. I mean, my number one is always Thick by Tressie McMillan Cottom. She's a brilliant sociologist and just really just cutting commentary about the beauty industry. Let's see. Right now, I've been really into Sian Nye, who is a critical literary theorist who's written a lot of books on aesthetics. She's written a book called Ugly Feelings. 17:20 One called Our Aesthetic Categories and one called Theory of the Gimmick, which are not necessarily about the beauty industry in particular, but just cultural aesthetics overall with insights that I think are pretty easily applied to the beauty industry. So she's definitely someone I look up to quite a bit. Trying to think. 17:38 There's a great book called Disobedient Bodies by Emma Dabiri. There's a great book called Ugly by Anita Bhagwanda. Yeah, those are the ones that are coming to mind right now. There are. Oh, I just read this really great book, Girl on Girl by Sophie Gilbert, 17:57 which takes a look at the 2000s and misogyny in pop culture in the 2000s. I know. And so beauty culture is not the whole book, but there's definitely a chapter or two that are dedicated to beauty standards that are fascinating and depressing. 18:13 God, I just think of those American apparel years. Oh, my gosh. Yep. Of course they are in there. That's awesome. No, good to know. What do you like about the book Ugly? You mentioned that one. 18:26 I feel like Anita is I like consider her a contemporary like she is an editor who's been working in the beauty industry for a really long time which is actually kind of rare in beauty books. I feel like we often get a lot of beauty culture commentary from like a feminist 18:42 perspective or even from like a scientific perspective from dermatologists but There's not actually a ton in book format from the editors who are the ones writing about beauty day in and day out and know sort of the small corruptions in the industry and the pressures from advertisers and the press trips that you're sort of 19:02 bribed with and the products that you get. So I thought Anita just does a really fantastic job of weaving things. all of that experience into a broader cultural commentary. While also, and this is something that I don't really do in my writing, and I appreciate when other people can do it well, 19:19 weaving in like a real appreciation for beauty and all that it can be. That's not something that I really write about that much. I feel like there's so much of it out there of people championing beauty products that I'm like, I don't need to do this, even though, of course, I use some products in my day-to-day life. 19:35 But yeah, I think Anita and Ugly just really weaves all of that together very masterfully. 19:40 Do you ever think there are certain misconceptions about what you do or about how you feel about the beauty industry? 19:48 Yeah, I think that I don't even know if I would call it a misconception because it might be my fault that I haven't emphasized this part of my own ideology enough. But I think people think that I hate beauty or I'm like very anti beauty. And I don't feel that way at all. 20:05 I think I critique beauty because I love beauty so much. Most of my life has been oriented by beauty. toward beauty and around beauty and I feel like the work that I do now pulling it apart and critiquing it is born out of if not a love for it at least like a deep 20:25 obsession with it and a need to know why I am so obsessed why I did dedicate so much of my life to this pursuit and like a sort of Yeah, I guess justification for how I spent the earlier years of my career wanting to atone for that. But yeah, 20:44 I think it's because I believe in this almost like spiritual relationship to beauty that I feel compelled to critique the things in the industry that are like masquerading as spiritual beauty, but are really just purely physical manipulation or cosmetic adornment or there's a difference. 21:07 I always imagine it was also born of a fascination and interest as well. 21:11 Yeah, completely. 21:13 What do you find most difficult about critiquing the beauty industry? In some ways, I see them almost like silent force, like a silent air gas or like a monolithic, like Leviathan type of sort of thing. 21:25 I think the most difficult thing for me is... Trying to be aware of my own limitations and the limits of my own perspective. I think I had a couple of lessons that I learned a little bit earlier on in my career where I was really excited about what I was researching and writing. 21:41 And then only post-publishing in public outcry did I realize, oh, I missed a really key part of this. There are real sensitivities and especially cultural sensitivities about beauty routines because beauty is such a part of our lives and yeah I think balancing the critique with almost like a respect for the history of certain beauty 22:05 practices and an awareness that my own interpretation of events is not the only interpretation and bringing in yeah making sure that I'm just covering all of the bases and not just hating for the sake of hating 22:23 Fair enough. Which is easy to do and I love to do. I totally understand that and have definitely leaned on that too in my own writing. What would be to you the biggest change you dream of seeing with our current beauty standards and how do you think we can work towards that? 22:42 I know that you do donate to a number of different non-profits that have their own vision and whatnot. 22:48 Yeah, yeah. So some proceeds from the newsletter go to Slow Factory, which is all about decolonizing these large industries. It's mostly focused on fashion, but there's definitely some beauty in there too. And focusing on the environmental impact of these industries, which I think is something that's overlooked in beauty sometimes. 23:07 Proceeds go to Transgender Law Center because I firmly believe that a lot of the things that we do categorize under the beauty umbrella, right, are tools and tools that can be used to liberate or tools that can be used for harm. And I think in so many cases, plastic surgery can be this like amazing tool from 23:31 gender normative things it's an amazing tool for gender liberation and i definitely want to preserve that power and who's the other one oh the beauty well project who which is doing incredible work on colorism in beauty culture and white supremacy and doing the work to like both fight for safer products because a lot of like skin lightening 23:57 creams are still used it's still like an eight billion dollar industry a year globally and these products come with like really terrifying physical effects but then also addressing the roots of colorism and white supremacy and culture and making sure that at the same time as we're fighting for safer products we're also 24:15 working on fixing the culture so that people don't feel this pressure to use those types of products so those are the organizations that i'm not like affiliated with we're not like partnered but i donate to because i really believe in their mission for me right now i'm really interested in like 24:34 how much we could change beauty culture just by massaging the language that we use a little bit or being a little bit more precise in the language we use. So something that I'm really interested in is when is the word beauty not appropriate to describe what we're using it to describe? 24:52 And I would say that like most of the beauty industry is not about beauty at all. It's about appearance and beauty and appearance are very different things. And so I wonder if we could call the beauty industry the appearance industry, How would that affect our relationship to it? 25:07 And would that lessen any of the pressure we feel or the drive we have to use these products or change our bodies in these ways? Because I think the word beauty has a very deeply like spiritual, metaphysical connotation. And I think that's used a lot as justification for things that, you know. That's interesting. 25:29 I never think about it like as the, I don't know, it's kind of really an interesting thought. What is continuously surprising to you about the beauty industry or maybe or about people's reactions to the industry, say? 25:47 I think what's continuously surprising to me about the industry is I think actually most consumers have this idea of knowing better. Like, we're all kind of aware, like, beauty marketing's a little bit of a scam. We all make fun of it. And yet the, like, most dedicated beauty consumers, despite having this, like, this point of view, 26:12 still feel compelled to buy in, right? And, yeah... I'm always surprised by the gap between our beliefs and our behavior. I think when I started out, I assumed like people must not, if people are buying into the beauty industry at this rate, they must not know some of this stuff. But it's like, no, we know. 26:39 We all know. And we're doing it anyway. And I'm just really curious about that. What does that hinge? When do your beliefs and convictions actually start to modify your behavior? Yeah, I don't know. It's a great question. 26:58 Is there anything that never ceases to surprise you? You're like, yep. Classic. 27:06 Oh, that doesn't surprise me at all? I mean, like... the many ways like anti-aging has been rebranded. We're always coming up with new words to describe anti-aging that are supposedly not anti-aging, but in practice are the exact same thing as anti-aging. So we have like pro-aging and... Preserve aging and non aging. Yeah, it's like a portmanteau. Yeah. 27:32 Or like preventative aging or like the big one is aging gracefully. And these are all supposed to be terms that signal like aging is great. But when you look at the products they're promoting, they're used to reduce your wrinkles and erase your fine lines. And it's all the same as anti aging. So. Yeah, there's always, 27:54 anytime a new, exciting, supposedly positive term for anti-aging comes out, I must roll my eyes and... 28:03 fair enough speaking of terms okay I did love the phrase cosmetic cannibalism and bite me beauty did you and just this idea and I never even you never even think about it until you mentioned it but this idea of you're consuming things to to be 28:19 more consumable and edible yourself it's like I was I was in the I was on the tube yesterday and the woman next to me smelled like strawberries and I was like why do I want to bite her It's kind of creepy, but I don't know. And I thought about your phrase again. 28:35 Did you get any weird reactions on the cannibalistic aspect of this? It makes perfect sense to me. 28:44 The reactions are pretty split with people being like, yes, this makes perfect sense and really having fun with it. And then I think a big thing that I get that I got a lot for that piece was just like, It's not that deep. You're making way too much of this. It's not that big of a deal. 29:00 Or you don't need to go through all these lengths to try to analyze why we're doing it. It's just like people like the smell of strawberries, you know, which I think is a cop out. I don't believe in that sort of point of view. I think everything is deep. It is that deep. We're deep. No, it's weird. 29:15 There are layers to our behavior and what compels us to buy something or whatever it is. So, yeah, I think a lot of people had fun with that one, though. 29:25 Yeah. No, it's weird. I even think like, why do we say to a baby, I want to eat you up? It's weird, man. I don't know. I thought it was fun because it made me think of something and I just never, especially as somebody who always likes fruit scented perfumes and stuff like that. Let's see. 29:42 I think, God, so many questions. What are the three or maybe one just worst beauty trend right now? I know you're not supposed to hate, but this is just, I'm so curious. 29:55 No, I love to hate. I love to hate. Let me see. 29:59 I... One or a few, whatever, if you have more than one. 30:04 I'm going to say, I mean, I have so many. I think this... I'm concerned about... people now it seems we're moving away from this idea of having to appear effortless at least on social media to like wanting the effort one puts into their beauty routine to be acknowledged and celebrated as work and we're seeing a lot of 30:28 different things in the culture around this too like urban outfitters came out with those t-shirts a couple weeks ago that said like too hot to work um and things like that so i think we're seeing like this beauty labor being celebrated as like worthy labor that should be rewarded and 30:45 acknowledged and i think that's kind of a concerning place to get to i think there are layers of that that are interesting of like okay yes we're exposing the labor it takes to look a certain way like that exposure is good rather than hiding it under this like of effortlessness. But yeah, 31:02 I think we need to take it a step further and not be like, look at how hard I'm working. Aren't you proud of me? And just be like, whoa, look at how hard I'm working. And for what? So that is concerning to me. I am concerned about all of the 31:21 beauty partnerships with women's sports leagues and female athletes. I think like, of course, we should have like representation in the beauty industry. But I think combined with some other things that we're seeing, like culturally and politically, this like sort of mass migration of beauty brands into women's sports Isn't necessarily, 31:44 I think what it's saying is that there is no space a woman can go where she is not expected to be as beautiful as possible. Whereas previously, like sports were like a haven for where you didn't have to care about those things. I think beauty is really infiltrating every area of women's lives. 32:01 And there are aspects that are like, can be self-expression and celebratory and adornment and are great. Yeah. And then there are aspects of that that feel very oppressive. So that's a big one. And let's see. Yeah, those are the two things coming to mind right now. 32:21 Fair enough. No, that is a little frightening. I think there's always been this kind of look at some of the fashion. But that's, I don't know, when you have to also think of the beauty industry as well. I've always liked how... Some people can flaunt their own style on the rink, on the courts, etc. 32:41 But I think style is a different thing than, you know, making sure you look flawless at all times. 32:49 Yeah, I will say I think there is a huge difference between beauty that like adorns or decorates the body and then beauty that tries to like perfect or correct things. the body and i'm concerned about like the idea of like corrective beauty um 33:05 infiltrating all aspects of our lives great well thank you so much for being on uh 33:11 the show today really appreciate it jessica thank you so much for having me absolutely This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit dontpretendweredead.substack.com [https://dontpretendweredead.substack.com?utm_medium=podcast&utm_campaign=CTA_1]

6. juni 2025 - 33 min
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