A Surfer's Notebook: A Life Optimized for Waves

28 - Tipping Point

Once I knew what to look for I started recognizing tipping points everywhere. I found the first one on the mountainside in rural Japan but realized I'd experienced one just a few days earlier in the water, during the height of the typhoon swell. Both were tests I'd have to face on my own.

27 - Miyazaki By Van

What's it like to live in the "Wave Hunter" and surf typhoon swells in Japan? Follow the ups and downs of this eventful week on the Miyazaki coast.

26 - Planting The Seed

Today we are kicking of the Japan series... which includes multiple notes from my extended stay and extensive search for surf in Japan. This first note covers how I came to decide that spending several months in Japan to find my stoke would be a good idea...

25 - The Arc of A Swell

Each swell follows a predictable arc that plays out in the surf community. Here's how it goes... Read this note and see pics and diagrams here: https://surfersnotebook.com/uncategorized/the-arc-of-a-swell/ [https://surfersnotebook.com/uncategorized/the-arc-of-a-swell/]

24 - Dreaming of Surf

Why can't I come to terms with "surf dreams"? Read it here: https://surfersnotebook.com/uncategorized/dreaming-of-surf/ [https://surfersnotebook.com/uncategorized/dreaming-of-surf/]