Beauty by the Beaker

Chemists Answer YOUR Beauty Questions! EP35

We are cosmetic chemists, and today we are uncovering secrets behind hair care myths, product hype, and what science actually says about styling and cleansing routines in this lively Q&A. From horse shampoos to curl conditioners, discover whether your favorite products are worth the hype, and learn how to optimize your routine, even in hard water or with stubborn color fades.Ever wondered if rinsing with cold water truly seals the cuticle or if hot water strips your hair? Want to know why curly hair responds differently to shampoos or whether you should really avoid sulfate shampoos for color preservation? We break down these common doubts and share surprising insights straight from the lab, demystifying marketing claims and giving you practical, science-backed advice.Discover why hair pH matters, how to choose shampoos that work in hard water, and the truth about the influence of temperature and water type on your hair health. We also explore the real reasons behind product overhype. Including some specific brands that may not deserve the praise — and how to identify the best beauty solutions for your concerns.This episode is perfect for anyone tired of being overwhelmed by endless product choices or questioning the marketing spin. If you’re a curly girl aiming for bouncy curls, a color-treated hair enthusiast, or simply want to optimize your routine, you'll gain insights to make smarter decisions and avoid wasting money. Plus, get a peek into how chemistry impacts everyday beauty routines.Natalie and Sadie are both cosmetic chemists with years of experience formulating skincare and hair care products. Together they are answering your burning questions and bringing clarity to the world of cosmetics.Tune in to decode the myths and make informed choices, because you deserve hair that looks and feels amazing, backed by science, not hype.Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start.Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with sources.https://www.beautyxbeaker.com/Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube!@beautyxbeaker@natbxb@sadiebxbContact us at info@beautyxbeaker.comSpecial thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and Hailey Romero for our branding.

Avoid This Cosmetic Ingredient If You Are Going to the Airport - EP 34

Are you brushing your teeth with explosives? No, not really, but your cosmetics could still set off alarms going through TSA, and not just because they are bigger than 3.4oz. In this episode we are diving into a cosmetic ingredient that might help with tooth sensitivity, but it might also get you stuck at the airport security checkpoint having your luggage swabbed. Potassium Nitrate, KNO3. In this episode we are diving into some of the primary uses of Potassium Nitrate. We are covering fertilizers, fireworks and filet mignon (meat preservation), and how the oxygen present in nitrates makes it helpful for many everyday uses. Then we are talking about its use in cosmetics. If you have ever used a toothpaste designed to reduce sensitivity, then you have used this ingredient. We are covering how sensitivity relief toothpaste works, and the studies that have proven it to be effective (and of course, poking some holes in them). It's always important to remember that the same ingredient can be used in multiple applications, and will perform differently in each of them. If there is an ingredient in common with fertilizer and your toothpaste, that does NOT mean you have fertilizer in your toothpaste. The concentration and the other ingredients in the formula are always going to be more important than any one ingredient (Unless you are have an allergy) Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start.Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with sources.Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube!@beautyxbeaker@natbxb@sadiebxbContact us at info@beautyxbeaker.comSpecial thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and Hailey Romero for our branding.

EP 33 - How to REALLY find Acne Safe Skincare.

Do you know truth behind terms like "non-comedogenic"? Most skincare claims are based on estimates and outdated science,  In this eye-opening episode, cosmetic chemists Sadie and Natalie reveal the hidden flaws in skincare labeling, and why "non-comedogenic" means little without proper evidence, and how marketing exploits consumer fears. If you have shopped for cosmetics you have probably come across the term non comedogenic, but what does that really mean? In this episode we are talking all about what it actually takes to be permitted to legally use the words non comedogenic on your product, shockingly its not much. We are introducing a new more robust term, acnegenic, which tells us more about the likelyhood of a clogged pore actually leading to acne.  We are also talking about some different ways that you can find products that work well with your skin and don't break you out.  In this Episode we cover:  Why the term "non-comedogenic" is virtually unregulated and how companies often label products without rigorous testing The differences between non-comedogenic, non-acnegenic, and their relevance for acne-prone skin How current testing methods like rabbit ear studies and acne checkers often give misleading results The truth about FDA regulations, recent legislation like MoCRA, and why most cosmetic claims are just marketing Practical advice on patch testing, ingredient concentrations, and how to avoid pore-clogging ingredients without falling for buzzwords Empower you to ask better questions and make smarter choices. Perfect for skincare enthusiasts, dermatology skeptics, and anyone navigating the confusing world of beauty marketing, this deep dive will have you questioning labels and understanding what truly matters when it comes to healthy skin. Science is still learning, and skincare brands are often a few steps behind—don't be fooled by marketing. Arm yourself with knowledge and make decisions grounded in real science, not just buzzwords. Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start. Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with sources. Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube! @beautyxbeaker @natbxb @sadiebxb Contact us at info@beautyxbeaker.com Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and Hailey Romero for our branding.

Non-Comedogenic? A 50 Year Old Rabbit Study is Influencing Your Skincare Choices - EP 32

Most people believe certain ingredients or products cause acne, but the truth is far more complex, and surprisingly outdated. This week we are diving into the real science behind the popular non-comedogenic claim that’s been shaping skincare for over 50 years. This episode unpacks the origins of the Rabbit Ear Study, revealing why its findings are not super reliable. If you’ve ever read a label claiming “non-comedogenic” and wondered what it really means, this is your essential guide to understanding the truth about acne-causing ingredients, and spoiler: it's not what you think. Sadie and Natalie, cosmetic chemists with over a decade of experience, break down the belief that certain ingredients block pores and cause breakouts. This idea was born in the 70s using animal testing. You’ll discover how early studies overstated the impact of individual ingredients, and why the finished product’s formulation, ingredient purity, and application hygiene matter far more than isolated components. We explore how modern science challenges the simplistic idea of “bad” ingredients, emphasizing that the overall formula matters, and not just one ingredient on a list. Key Topics: * The history and origins of the "non-comedogenic" claim, starting from the 1972 rabbit ear study by Albert Kligman and Otto Hills. * The limitations and flaws of animal testing models, specifically how they overpredict comedogenicity compared to human skin. * How formulations and the overall chemistry of a product impact its likelihood to cause breakouts, not just single ingredients. * The myth that certain ingredients inherently cause acne, emphasizing the importance of dilution and formulation context. * Insights into how modern studies and testing methods have evolved, including human trials and revisiting old assumptions. * Why consumer-facing lists of "bad ingredients" oversimplify the complexity of skincare formulations. * The influence of marketing, misleading claims, and the importance of understanding how products are tested and regulated. * Timestamps: 00:00 - What does "non-comedogenic" really mean and its misleading origins 02:22 - The 1972 rabbit ear study and its flaws as a predictor of human acne 05:21 - Differences between cosmetic acne (acne cosmetica) and hormonal acne 10:07 - How animal models compare to human skin in skincare testing 13:28 - Revisiting the "rabbit ear" study and its relevance today 17:22 - The role of dilution and overall formulation in comedogenicity 20:34 - Limitations of small sample sizes and outdated testing methods 24:39 - Why individual ingredients are less important than the complete product 27:00 - The impact of application habits and hygiene on acne 30:36 - How marketing simplifies complex science to sell products 33:37 - Modern research and reevaluation of old theories on acne and cosmetics 35:44 - What's next: Regulation, testing, and consumer guidance Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start. Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with sources. Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube! @beautyxbeaker @natbxb @sadiebxb Contact us at info@beautyxbeaker.com Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and Hailey Romero for our branding.

EP 31 - Tretinoin, Adapalene and Retinol. Why FDA Approval Isn't Always Better.

How do we know which skincare ingredients actually work? Do cosmetics even work? Or are over the counter topical drugs the only way to reliably treat problem skin? In this discussion episode, hosts Natalie and Sadie reveal why some treatments are prescription-only while others are OTC, and why this matters more than you think. This week we are continuing our retinol conversation, and also revisiting some of our other recent topics like PDRN and Reale Actives, and explaining why cosmetic brands have no incentive to do good scientific studies.  Discover how the FDA's outdated definitions make it tricky for brands to bring effective ingredients to market, and learn why some companies boldly blur the lines with ambitious claims. Uncover the real science behind retinoids, PDRN, and other active ingredients, debunking myths about strength, formulation, and regulation. We are breaking down why tretinoin is prescription-only, but other retinoids aren't. The complex dance between FDA definitions, bioavailability, and product efficacy, and why some ingredients get labeled as drugs while others stay in the cosmetic market, despite similar effects. We’re chatting about practical tips for choosing safer, more effective skincare, whether you’re a novice or seasoned professional.  In a world flooded with confusing claims and fluctuating regulations, knowing the difference could save you time, money, and skin misery. This episode is perfect for anyone overwhelmed by skincare choices or curious about the real science behind the products you use daily. Join us as we navigate the regulatory retinol maze, and remember that slow and steady wins the vitamin A race. Your skin will thank you.  Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products, and we aren't afraid to bust some myths while doing it. Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start. Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with sources. Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube! @beautyxbeaker @natbxb @sadiebxb Contact us at info@beautyxbeaker.com Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and Hailey Romero for our branding.