The Skincarma® Pod

The Skincarma Pod | Ep. 78: Waterless Beauty Isn’t About Sustainability — It’s About Potency with Stephanie Farsht of Small Wonder

We tend to think about innovation in beauty as adding more — more actives, more steps, more complexity. But what if the next frontier in formulation is actually about removing something fundamental instead? In this episode of the Skincarma Pod, Carmine sits down with Small Wonder [https://go.skimresources.com?id=153039X1618868&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fsmallwonder.world%2Fcollections%3Fgad_source%3D1%26gad_campaignid%3D20363110681%26gbraid%3D0AAAAApujqcQpUol6PH0NJUDkEDhhv-0V9%26gclid%3DCj0KCQjww8rQBhDjARIsAE43KPP1Y5NRrPuFrDjGE7_yMQBpx66gvQMcfLlQ3sHpfi0p0d4hlCWaFgoaAvXxEALw_wcB] Co-Founder and CEO Stephanie Farsht to explore one deceptively simple question: What if water — the foundation of most beauty products — is actually making them less effective? Drawing from her background in strategy and innovation at Target, along with years teaching entrepreneurship and innovation at Northwestern’s Kellogg School of Management, Stephanie explains how she approached beauty not as a traditional founder, but as a systems-level problem solver. The conversation explores the hidden trade-offs inherent to conventional water-based formulations — from ingredient degradation and oxidation to the need for preservatives — and why powder-based products offer a fundamentally different approach to potency, stability, and performance. Together, Carmine and Stephanie unpack the science and philosophy behind Small Wonder’s powder-to-lather haircare system, including the challenge of preserving active ingredients in their most stable form, redesigning packaging from the ground up, and rethinking how consumers interact with products in the shower. But the episode also goes beyond formulation science into broader questions around innovation itself: why truly disruptive ideas often require rethinking the entire user experience, why sustainability should be a byproduct of smart design rather than a marketing headline, and how failure became one of Stephanie’s most important tools as a founder. At its core, this is a conversation about challenging assumptions — and reconsidering whether beauty products are being designed primarily for convenience, tradition, or actual performance. In this episode, you’ll learn: • Why water-based beauty products may compromise ingredient potency over time;• How oxidation, degradation, and preservatives impact formulation performance;• Why powder formulations help preserve active ingredients in their most stable form;• How Small Wonder redesigned not just the formula, but the entire shower experience;• Why packaging can function as part of the efficacy system — not just the aesthetic experience;• Why consumer behavior change is often the biggest hurdle in product innovation;• Why sustainability alone rarely drives consumer adoption in beauty;• And, how the future of beauty may increasingly center on intentional, systems-level design rather than endless product launches. Key Takeaway Sometimes the most meaningful innovation doesn’t come from adding more — it comes from questioning assumptions that no one else thinks to challenge. As Stephanie Farsht explains, Small Wonder wasn’t built simply to create a more sustainable product. It was built around a deeper question: what if the conventional way beauty products are formulated is inherently limiting their performance? That shift in thinking led not only to a new type of haircare formula, but to a complete reimagining of packaging, user experience, and ingredient stability itself. The result is a broader reminder that true innovation rarely happens by optimizing the existing system. More often, it happens when someone is willing to redesign the system entirely. Connect with Stephanie on LinkedIn here [https://www.linkedin.com/in/stephaniefarsht/] and on Instagram at @sfarsht. [https://www.instagram.com/sfarsht?igsh=NTc4MTIwNjQ2YQ==] Explore Small Wonder on Instagram at @smallwonder.world [https://www.instagram.com/smallwonder.world?igsh=NTc4MTIwNjQ2YQ==] and discover Small Wonder’s products and brand ethos at https://go.skimresources.com?id=153039X1618868&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.staminacosmetics.com%2F%3Fgad_source%3D1%26gad_campaignid%3D23238913388%26gbraid%3D0AAAAA9fdfowKR8IJQTV6GTxmtslMewcXc%26gclid%3DCj0KCQjw2YDQBhD_ARIsAE1qeSeLWADpIB5kNoYzw0iqlZWBq-_Sxlyu3SpesPbFqFZjwg61e75fD6EaAnahEALw_wcBsmallwonder.world. [https://go.skimresources.com?id=153039X1618868&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fsmallwonder.world%2F] — Follow Skincarma on Instagram [https://www.instagram.com/skincarma?igsh=d2JmemE3aXo0a3Fw&utm_source=qr] and on TikTok [https://www.tiktok.com/@skincarma?_t=ZT-8ubN2Gvz7xS&_r=1]. Catch product reviews of Carmine’s top picks of the best skincare on the Skincarma Blog. [http://www.skincarma.com] You can also connect with Carmine on Substack [https://skincarma.substack.com/podcast] and LinkedIn [https://www.linkedin.com/in/carminemontalto/] – and explore his extensive work in beauty on the Carmine Montalto INK website here [https://www.cminknyc.com]. If you enjoyed this episode, please subscribe, rate and/or leave a review on Apple Podcasts, [https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/the-skincarma-pod/id1793186495] Substack [https://skincarma.substack.com/podcast], or Spotify [https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PL7bGZdDAmYChhO1-WsRyu26PVGe9WFToy&si=H9AqKo1fDbAiToeA] to help Carmine reach more curious listeners. Product links: Small Wonder Signature Shampoo & Conditioner Set [https://go.skimresources.com?id=153039X1618868&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fsmallwonder.world%2Fproducts%2Fsignature-shampoo-conditioner-set%3Fvariant%3D45919400591575] Small Wonder Signature Shampoo [https://go.skimresources.com?id=153039X1618868&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fsmallwonder.world%2Fproducts%2Fsignature-shampoo-wonder%3Fvariant%3D44509120823511] Small Wonder Signature Conditioner [https://go.skimresources.com?id=153039X1618868&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fsmallwonder.world%2Fproducts%2Fsignature-conditioner-copy-1] Small Wonder Magic Perfecting Serum [https://go.skimresources.com?id=153039X1618868&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fsmallwonder.world%2Fproducts%2Fmagic-perfecting-serum%3Fvariant%3D48587112087767] SURI 2.0 Electric Toothbrush [https://go.skimresources.com?id=153039X1618868&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.trysuri.com%2Fen-us%2Fproducts%2Fsuri-2-sonic-toothbrush-uv-c-led-case] Product reviews on the Skincarma Blog: Explore the Best Sunscreens for Face here [https://www.skincarmanyc.com/best-sunscreens-for-face]. Explore the Best Retinol Face Creams and Serums here [https://www.skincarmanyc.com/best-retinol-face-creams-and-serums]. Explore the Best Vitamin C Serums here [https://www.skincarmanyc.com/best-vitamin-c-serums-for-face]. Explore the Best Niacinamide Serums here [https://www.skincarmanyc.com/best-brightening-serums-for-face-1]. Explore the Best Acne Treatments here [https://www.skincarmanyc.com/best-acne-treatments]. Explore the Best Anti-Aging Creams and Serums here [https://www.skincarmanyc.com/best-anti-aging-creams-and-serums]. Explore the Best Face Creams for Dry Skin here [https://www.skincarmanyc.com/best-face-creams-dry-skin]. Explore the Best Face Creams for Oily Skin here [https://www.skincarmanyc.com/best-face-creams-oily-skin]. The Skincarma® Pod is where indie beauty meets fearless curiosity. Hosted by Carmine, his podcast pulls back the curtain on the beauty industry with sharp insights, candid interviews, and a healthy dose of irreverence. From deep dives into ingredient science to raw conversations with dermatologists, brand founders, and industry insiders, each episode is a no-BS exploration of what really matters in skincare: how to attain and maintain healthy skin. If you’re obsessed with products, passionate about transparency, and love calling out hype, this is the place to learn, question, and glow smarter. The Skincarma® Blog is written and curated by skinfluencer, skincare junkie and Brooklyn writer Carmine Montalto. With 25 years of expertise in beauty across every category, Carmine has helped build multiple consumer brands from the ground up. He’s named 100s of skincare, haircare & makeup products – some of which are probably in your bathroom cabinet right now! And, he’s tested 1,000s of products, the best of which can be found reviewed on his blog at skincarma.com. [https://www.skincarmanyc.com] With the right skincare routine including sunscreen...You CAN change your skin’s destiny!™ Get full access to Skincarma® at skincarma.substack.com/subscribe [https://skincarma.substack.com/subscribe?utm_medium=podcast&utm_campaign=CTA_4]

The Skincarma Pod | Ep. 77: Beauty Has No Expiration Date: Sarah Kugelman on Aging, Identity & the Evolution of Beauty

We tend to think about aging in beauty as a biological process — wrinkles, collagen loss, hormonal change. But what if part of the issue isn’t just what’s happening to the skin but how women are being seen in the first place? In this episode of The Skincarma Pod, Carmine sits down with beauty industry veteran and founder of Skyn Iceland and All Golden, [https://go.skimresources.com?id=153039X1618868&xs=1&url=http%3A%2F%2Fallgolden.com%2Fpages%2Fabout-us] Sarah Kugelman, for a wide-ranging conversation about aging, identity, stress, menopause — and the evolving relationship between women and the beauty industry. Drawing from decades of experience in beauty — from her early years at L’Oréal to pioneering the concept of “stressed skin” with Skyn Iceland — Sarah reflects on how internal wellness has increasingly shaped the way we think about skin health. She also shares the personal health crisis that ultimately inspired Skyn Iceland and helped introduce the idea that psychological stress could manifest physiologically in the skin. The conversation then shifts to All Golden, Sarah’s newest venture focused on the needs of Gen X women navigating hormonal change, thinning skin, collagen loss, and shifting identity during perimenopause and beyond. But rather than centering menopause as a problem to “fix,” Sarah makes the case for a more expansive vision of “well-aging” — one rooted in vitality, relevance, authenticity, and self-perception. Along the way, Carmine and Sarah unpack the beauty industry’s longstanding blind spot around women over 40, the disconnect between marketing and lived experience, and why today’s consumers are demanding products — and narratives — that better reflect how they actually feel. Whether you’re interested in longevity, hormonal skin changes, or simply the future of beauty itself, this episode offers a thoughtful look at how the conversation around aging is finally beginning to evolve. In this episode, you’ll learn: • How Sarah Kugelman’s personal health crisis led to the creation of Skyn Iceland and the concept of “stressed skin”;• How perceptions of aging — especially for women over 40 — have shifted culturally over the last several decades;• Why many women feel unseen or misrepresented by the modern beauty industry;• How hormonal changes during perimenopause and menopause impact skin thickness, barrier function, collagen, and hydration;• Why menopause skincare is about more than dryness — and why the conversation is still evolving;• How All Golden approaches well-aging through both product innovation and cultural positioning;• Why Gen X consumers represent one of the beauty industry’s greatest overlooked opportunities;• And, how the future of beauty may increasingly center on longevity, vitality, and authenticity rather than “anti-aging.” Key Takeaway Beauty doesn’t stop mattering as we age — but the way we want to be seen often changes. As Sarah Kugelman explains, today’s women over 40 aren’t looking to “turn back time” so much as they’re looking for alignment: between how they feel internally and how they’re reflected externally. That shift has implications not just for skincare products, but for the language, imagery, and assumptions that have historically defined beauty marketing. The result is a broader rethinking of what aging in beauty can look like — less about decline or invisibility, and more about vitality, relevance, and continuing evolution. Connect with Sarah on LinkedIn here [https://www.linkedin.com/in/sarah-kugelman/-faad-71164b54/] and on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/dermwithstamina?igsh=dTl5bnlzbnRkbGxm@sarahskyn. [https://www.instagram.com/sarahskyn?igsh=YWQxcG9uMHFpdmxh] Explore All Golden [https://go.skimresources.com?id=153039X1618868&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fallgolden.com%2Fpages%2Fabout-us] on Instagram at @allgoldenbeauty [https://www.instagram.com/allgoldenbeauty?igsh=Y2Z3dzVobWdxY3ly] and discover All Golden products and brand ethos at https://go.skimresources.com?id=153039X1618868&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.staminacosmetics.com%2F%3Fgad_source%3D1%26gad_campaignid%3D23238913388%26gbraid%3D0AAAAA9fdfowKR8IJQTV6GTxmtslMewcXc%26gclid%3DCj0KCQjw2YDQBhD_ARIsAE1qeSeLWADpIB5kNoYzw0iqlZWBq-_Sxlyu3SpesPbFqFZjwg61e75fD6EaAnahEALw_wcBallgolden.com. [https://go.skimresources.com?id=153039X1618868&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fallgolden.com%2Fpages%2Fabout-us] — Follow Skincarma on Instagram [https://www.instagram.com/skincarma?igsh=d2JmemE3aXo0a3Fw&utm_source=qr] and on TikTok [https://www.tiktok.com/@skincarma?_t=ZT-8ubN2Gvz7xS&_r=1]. Catch product reviews of Carmine’s top picks of the best skincare on the Skincarma Blog. [http://www.skincarma.com] You can also connect with Carmine on Substack [https://skincarma.substack.com/podcast] and LinkedIn [https://www.linkedin.com/in/carminemontalto/] – and explore his extensive work in beauty on the Carmine Montalto INK website here [https://www.cminknyc.com]. If you enjoyed this episode, please subscribe, rate and/or leave a review on Apple Podcasts, [https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/the-skincarma-pod/id1793186495] Substack [https://skincarma.substack.com/podcast], or Spotify [https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PL7bGZdDAmYChhO1-WsRyu26PVGe9WFToy&si=H9AqKo1fDbAiToeA] to help Carmine reach more curious listeners. Product links: STAMINA INTENTION MOISTURIZER [https://go.skimresources.com?id=153039X1618868&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.staminacosmetics.com%2Fproducts%2Fstamina-intention-moisturizer] STAMINA MIST [https://go.skimresources.com?id=153039X1618868&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.staminacosmetics.com%2Fproducts%2Fstamina-mist] STAMINA MASK [https://go.skimresources.com?id=153039X1618868&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.staminacosmetics.com%2Fproducts%2Fstamina-mask] Product reviews on the Skincarma Blog: Explore the Best Sunscreens for Face here [https://www.skincarmanyc.com/best-sunscreens-for-face]. Explore the Best Retinol Face Creams and Serums here [https://www.skincarmanyc.com/best-retinol-face-creams-and-serums]. Explore the Best Vitamin C Serums here [https://www.skincarmanyc.com/best-vitamin-c-serums-for-face]. Explore the Best Niacinamide Serums here [https://www.skincarmanyc.com/best-brightening-serums-for-face-1]. Explore the Best Acne Treatments here [https://www.skincarmanyc.com/best-acne-treatments]. Explore the Best Anti-Aging Creams and Serums here [https://www.skincarmanyc.com/best-anti-aging-creams-and-serums]. Explore the Best Face Creams for Dry Skin here [https://www.skincarmanyc.com/best-face-creams-dry-skin]. Explore the Best Face Creams for Oily Skin here [https://www.skincarmanyc.com/best-face-creams-oily-skin]. The Skincarma® Pod is where indie beauty meets fearless curiosity. Hosted by Carmine, his podcast pulls back the curtain on the beauty industry with sharp insights, candid interviews, and a healthy dose of irreverence. From deep dives into ingredient science to raw conversations with dermatologists, brand founders, and industry insiders, each episode is a no-BS exploration of what really matters in skincare: how to attain and maintain healthy skin. If you’re obsessed with products, passionate about transparency, and love calling out hype, this is the place to learn, question, and glow smarter. The Skincarma® Blog is written and curated by skinfluencer, skincare junkie and Brooklyn writer Carmine Montalto. With 25 years of expertise in beauty across every category, Carmine has helped build multiple consumer brands from the ground up. He’s named 100s of skincare, haircare & makeup products – some of which are probably in your bathroom cabinet right now! And, he’s tested 1,000s of products, the best of which can be found reviewed on his blog at skincarma.com. [https://www.skincarmanyc.com] With the right skincare routine including sunscreen...You CAN change your skin’s destiny!™ Get full access to Skincarma® at skincarma.substack.com/subscribe [https://skincarma.substack.com/subscribe?utm_medium=podcast&utm_campaign=CTA_4]

The Skincarma Pod | Ep. 76: Skin Under Stress: How Chronic Stress Affects Your Skin with Dr. Marianna Blyumin-Karasik

We tend to think of skincare as something topical — ingredients, routines, products. But what if one of the biggest drivers of skin health isn’t what we put on our skin at all? In this episode of the Skincarma Pod, Carmine sits down with board-certified dermatologist and founder of Stamina Cosmetics Dr. Marianna Blyumin-Karasik (Dr. MBK) to explore the growing concept of “stress skin” — and how chronic psychological stress may be reshaping the way our skin functions, heals, and ages. Drawing on her clinical experience, Dr. MBK explains how stress signals travel from the brain to the skin through what’s known as the mind–skin axis — triggering inflammation, disrupting the barrier, accelerating collagen breakdown, and even altering how skin responds to treatments. From the surge in stress-related skin conditions she observed during COVID to the development of her adaptogen-based skincare line, this conversation explores a more integrative view of dermatology — one that connects biology, psychology, and skincare in a way that feels increasingly relevant. Along the way, Carmine and Dr. MBK unpack the science behind adaptogens, the emerging category of neurocosmetics, and the role of the skin not just as a surface — but as a signaling organ in constant communication with the nervous system. Whether you’re dealing with breakouts, sensitivity, or simply noticing changes in your skin during stressful periods, this episode offers a deeper look at what might really be going on beneath the surface. In this episode, you’ll learn: • How chronic stress impacts the skin through the mind–skin axis and hormonal signaling;• Why dermatologists are seeing more “stressed skin” — from acne and rosacea to dullness and accelerated aging;• How inflammation, barrier disruption, and collagen breakdown are linked to psychological stress;• What adaptogens are — and how they may help regulate skin responses through multiple biological pathways;• What neurocosmetics are and how they aim to influence both the skin and the nervous system;• How hypochlorous acid functions as a multi-purpose, clinically backed ingredient for stressed or reactive skin;• Why post-procedure skin can serve as a model for understanding stress-induced skin vulnerability;• How skincare rituals — including texture, scent, and repetition — may influence the nervous system;• And, why a more holistic view of dermatology may be necessary to fully understand skin health today. Key Takeaway Stress isn’t just something we feel — it’s something the skin responds to in real time. As Dr. MBK explains, the skin is not an isolated organ, but part of a larger communication network involving the brain, immune system, and hormones. When stress becomes chronic, that signaling loop can drive inflammation, disrupt the barrier, and accelerate visible aging. The implication is clear: skincare alone isn’t enough — but it can play a role. By focusing on resilience, regulation, and recovery — both topically and systemically — we may be able to support the skin not just in reacting to stress, but in adapting to it. Connect with Dr. MBK on LinkedIn here [https://www.linkedin.com/in/marianna-blyumin-karasik-md-faad-71164b54/] and on Instagram at @dermwithstamina [https://www.instagram.com/dermwithstamina?igsh=dTl5bnlzbnRkbGxm]. Explore Stamina on Instagram at @staminacosmetics [https://www.instagram.com/staminacosmetics?igsh=MWx3cDdhcGMwMGk1eA==] and discover Stamina products and brand ethos at staminacosmetics.com. [https://go.skimresources.com?id=153039X1618868&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.staminacosmetics.com%2F%3Fgad_source%3D1%26gad_campaignid%3D23238913388%26gbraid%3D0AAAAA9fdfowKR8IJQTV6GTxmtslMewcXc%26gclid%3DCj0KCQjw2YDQBhD_ARIsAE1qeSeLWADpIB5kNoYzw0iqlZWBq-_Sxlyu3SpesPbFqFZjwg61e75fD6EaAnahEALw_wcB] — Follow Skincarma on Instagram [https://www.instagram.com/skincarma?igsh=d2JmemE3aXo0a3Fw&utm_source=qr] and on TikTok [https://www.tiktok.com/@skincarma?_t=ZT-8ubN2Gvz7xS&_r=1]. Catch product reviews of Carmine’s top picks of the best skincare on the Skincarma Blog. [http://www.skincarma.com] You can also connect with Carmine on Substack [https://skincarma.substack.com/podcast] and LinkedIn [https://www.linkedin.com/in/carminemontalto/] – and explore his extensive work in beauty on the Carmine Montalto INK website here [https://www.cminknyc.com]. If you enjoyed this episode, please subscribe, rate and/or leave a review on Apple Podcasts, [https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/the-skincarma-pod/id1793186495] Substack [https://skincarma.substack.com/podcast], or Spotify [https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PL7bGZdDAmYChhO1-WsRyu26PVGe9WFToy&si=H9AqKo1fDbAiToeA] to help Carmine reach more curious listeners. Product links: STAMINA INTENTION MOISTURIZER [https://go.skimresources.com?id=153039X1618868&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.staminacosmetics.com%2Fproducts%2Fstamina-intention-moisturizer] STAMINA MIST [https://go.skimresources.com?id=153039X1618868&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.staminacosmetics.com%2Fproducts%2Fstamina-mist] STAMINA MASK [https://go.skimresources.com?id=153039X1618868&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.staminacosmetics.com%2Fproducts%2Fstamina-mask] Product reviews on the Skincarma Blog: Explore the Best Sunscreens for Face here [https://www.skincarmanyc.com/best-sunscreens-for-face]. Explore the Best Retinol Face Creams and Serums here [https://www.skincarmanyc.com/best-retinol-face-creams-and-serums]. Explore the Best Vitamin C Serums here [https://www.skincarmanyc.com/best-vitamin-c-serums-for-face]. Explore the Best Niacinamide Serums here [https://www.skincarmanyc.com/best-brightening-serums-for-face-1]. Explore the Best Acne Treatments here [https://www.skincarmanyc.com/best-acne-treatments]. Explore the Best Anti-Aging Creams and Serums here [https://www.skincarmanyc.com/best-anti-aging-creams-and-serums]. Explore the Best Face Creams for Dry Skin here [https://www.skincarmanyc.com/best-face-creams-dry-skin]. Explore the Best Face Creams for Oily Skin here [https://www.skincarmanyc.com/best-face-creams-oily-skin]. The Skincarma® Pod is where indie beauty meets fearless curiosity. Hosted by Carmine, his podcast pulls back the curtain on the beauty industry with sharp insights, candid interviews, and a healthy dose of irreverence. From deep dives into ingredient science to raw conversations with dermatologists, brand founders, and industry insiders, each episode is a no-BS exploration of what really matters in skincare: how to attain and maintain healthy skin. If you’re obsessed with products, passionate about transparency, and love calling out hype, this is the place to learn, question, and glow smarter. The Skincarma® Blog is written and curated by skinfluencer, skincare junkie and Brooklyn writer Carmine Montalto. With 25 years of expertise in beauty across every category, Carmine has helped build multiple consumer brands from the ground up. He’s named 100s of skincare, haircare & makeup products – some of which are probably in your bathroom cabinet right now! And, he’s tested 1,000s of products, the best of which can be found reviewed on his blog at skincarma.com. [https://www.skincarmanyc.com] With the right skincare routine including sunscreen...You CAN change your skin’s destiny!™ Get full access to Skincarma® at skincarma.substack.com/subscribe [https://skincarma.substack.com/subscribe?utm_medium=podcast&utm_campaign=CTA_4]

The Skincarma Pod | Ep. 75: Skin Without Damage: Dr. Ben Johnson on the Retinol Myth, Dermal Repair & the Future of Regenerative Skincare

We’ve been taught that skin needs damage to regenerate — that the path to better skin runs through controlled injury. But what if that entire premise is flawed? In this episode of The Skincarma Pod, Carmine sits down with physician, formulator, and founder of Osmosis Beauty [https://go.skimresources.com?id=153039X1618868&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fosmosisbeauty.com%2F] Dr. Ben Johnson to challenge one of the most foundational assumptions in skincare: that inflammation and injury are necessary to stimulate repair. Drawing on decades of clinical experience and formulation work, Dr. Johnson makes the case for a radically different model — one centered on dermal repair, cellular signaling, and systemic health, rather than exfoliation, resurfacing, and inflammation. From his critique of retinoids and lasers to his emphasis on vascular supply, fat pad loss, and ingredient delivery, this conversation explores a more holistic — and at times controversial — view of how skin actually ages and regenerates. Along the way, Carmine and Dr. Johnson unpack the limits of ingredient penetration, the rise of growth factors and exosomes, and the growing conversation around the gut-skin connection. Whether you agree with all of his conclusions or not, this episode challenges the conventional playbook — and asks a bigger question: Are we trying to repair skin the wrong way? In this episode, you’ll learn: • Why Dr. Johnson believes skin does not need controlled damage to regenerate;• His argument that retinoids may deliver short-term benefits with long-term tradeoffs;• Why collagen loss alone doesn’t explain visible aging — and how vascular decline plays a role;• The emerging importance of facial fat pads in structural aging and volume loss;• How GLP-1 medications (“Ozempic face”) may accelerate fat pad depletion;• Where growth factors, cytokines, and exosomes fit into regenerative skincare;• How signaling molecules may work through receptor activation and follicular pathways, not just direct penetration;• Why many popular ingredients — including hyaluronic acid and peptides — may function primarily as “plumpers”;• Dr. Johnson’s perspective on the gut-skin connection, including links between acne, rosacea, and digestion;• Why he believes Candida, toxins, and microbiome imbalance may be driving common skin conditions;• And, where marketing continues to outpace science in skincare — from lasers to longevity claims. Key Takeaway The skincare industry has long relied on a “damage-to-repair” model — but Dr. Ben Johnson argues that true skin regeneration may come not from injury, but from supporting the skin’s biology: improving circulation, preserving structural volume, optimizing signaling, and addressing root causes beneath the surface. Whether or not you agree, one thing is clear: The future of skincare may depend less on forcing the skin to react — and more on understanding how to help it function. Connect with Dr. Ben Johnson on LinkedIn here [https://www.linkedin.com/in/ben-johnson-md-34655311/] and on Instagram here [https://www.instagram.com/benjohnsonmd?igsh=dDYxaDh3dDJmcnBq]. Follow Osmosis Beauty on IG at @osmosisbeauty [https://www.instagram.com/osmosisbeauty?igsh=emI3bzNtNXBqYXAx]— and explore Osmosis products and brand ethos on their website at osmosisbeauty.com. [https://go.skimresources.com?id=153039X1618868&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fosmosisbeauty.com%2F] — Follow Skincarma on Instagram [https://www.instagram.com/skincarma?igsh=d2JmemE3aXo0a3Fw&utm_source=qr] and on TikTok [https://www.tiktok.com/@skincarma?_t=ZT-8ubN2Gvz7xS&_r=1]. Catch product reviews of Carmine’s top picks of the best skincare on the Skincarma Blog. [http://www.skincarma.com] You can also connect with Carmine on Substack [https://skincarma.substack.com/podcast] and LinkedIn [https://www.linkedin.com/in/carminemontalto/] – and explore his extensive work in beauty on the Carmine Montalto INK website here [https://www.cminknyc.com]. If you enjoyed this episode, please subscribe, rate and/or leave a review on Apple Podcasts, [https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/the-skincarma-pod/id1793186495] Substack [https://skincarma.substack.com/podcast], or Spotify [https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PL7bGZdDAmYChhO1-WsRyu26PVGe9WFToy&si=H9AqKo1fDbAiToeA] to help Carmine reach more curious listeners. Product links: Osmosis STEMFACTOR [https://go.skimresources.com?id=153039X1618868&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fosmosisbeauty.com%2Fproducts%2Fstemfactor] Osmosis RESCUE [https://go.skimresources.com?id=153039X1618868&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fosmosisbeauty.com%2Fproducts%2Frescue] Osmosis PURIFY [https://go.skimresources.com?id=153039X1618868&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fosmosisbeauty.com%2Fproducts%2Fpurify] Product reviews on the Skincarma Blog: Explore the Best Sunscreens for Face here [https://www.skincarmanyc.com/best-sunscreens-for-face]. Explore the Best Retinol Face Creams and Serums here [https://www.skincarmanyc.com/best-retinol-face-creams-and-serums]. Explore the Best Vitamin C Serums here [https://www.skincarmanyc.com/best-vitamin-c-serums-for-face]. Explore the Best Niacinamide Serums here [https://www.skincarmanyc.com/best-brightening-serums-for-face-1]. Explore the Best Acne Treatments here [https://www.skincarmanyc.com/best-acne-treatments]. Explore the Best Anti-Aging Creams and Serums here [https://www.skincarmanyc.com/best-anti-aging-creams-and-serums]. Explore the Best Face Creams for Dry Skin here [https://www.skincarmanyc.com/best-face-creams-dry-skin]. Explore the Best Face Creams for Oily Skin here [https://www.skincarmanyc.com/best-face-creams-oily-skin]. The Skincarma® Pod is where indie beauty meets fearless curiosity. Hosted by Carmine, his podcast pulls back the curtain on the beauty industry with sharp insights, candid interviews, and a healthy dose of irreverence. From deep dives into ingredient science to raw conversations with dermatologists, brand founders, and industry insiders, each episode is a no-BS exploration of what really matters in skincare: how to attain and maintain healthy skin. If you’re obsessed with products, passionate about transparency, and love calling out hype, this is the place to learn, question, and glow smarter. The Skincarma® Blog is written and curated by skinfluencer, skincare junkie and Brooklyn writer Carmine Montalto. With 25 years of expertise in beauty across every category, Carmine has helped build multiple consumer brands from the ground up. He’s named 100s of skincare, haircare & makeup products – some of which are probably in your bathroom cabinet right now! And, he’s tested 1,000s of products, the best of which can be found reviewed on his blog at skincarma.com. [https://www.skincarmanyc.com] With the right skincare routine including sunscreen...You CAN change your skin’s destiny!™ Get full access to Skincarma® at skincarma.substack.com/subscribe [https://skincarma.substack.com/subscribe?utm_medium=podcast&utm_campaign=CTA_4]

The Skincarma Pod | Ep. 74: The SPF Illusion: Inside Sunscreen Testing, Trust & the Truth About Protection with Janna Mandell

We’ve been taught to trust SPF as the gold standard of sun protection—but what if that number isn’t as precise, or as reliable, as we think? In this episode of The Skincarma Pod, Carmine sits down with BeautyMatter journalist Janna Mandell to unpack one of the most unsettling questions in skincare today: can we actually trust SPF claims? Following her deeply reported investigation into sunscreen testing, Janna reveals a system shaped by human variability, lab inconsistencies, commercial pressure—and in some cases, outright manipulation. At the center of it all is a surprising truth: there is no such thing as a perfectly precise SPF number. From labs being given “target” results to brands unknowingly relying on flawed testing, this conversation explores the structural issues behind one of the beauty industry’s most trusted categories—and why accountability is far more complicated than it seems. This is not an anti-sunscreen conversation. It’s a reality check on how sunscreen works—and what it can (and can’t) promise. In this episode, you’ll learn: Why SPF is an estimate—not an exact number; How in vivo testing introduces variability—and opportunity for manipulation; What “too perfect” results reveal about faulty data; How brands, manufacturers, and labs share (and blur) responsibility; Why many brands and founders may not fully understand their own testing reports; Why lawsuits—not regulators—may be the real enforcement mechanism; Why SPF 30 vs. 50 differences are often less meaningful than consumers think; And, what actually matters: application, reapplication, and behavior—not just the number. Key takeaway: SPF isn’t a lie—but it’s far less precise, far more variable, and far more vulnerable to manipulation than most people realize. And while the system behind sunscreen may be flawed, the answer isn’t to stop using it—it’s to use it smarter. Connect with Janna on LinkedIn here [https://www.linkedin.com/in/janna-mandell/] and on Instagram at @janna_mandell_writer [https://www.instagram.com/janna_mandell_writer?igsh=cmJyZGh1Njh1eG03]. Explore her deeply sourced and insightful journalism for BeautyMatter here [https://beautymatter.com/authors/6162]. Publications in BeautyMatter by Janna Mandell [https://www.linkedin.com/in/janna-mandell/]: Is Everyone Lying About Their Spf Claims? It’s Complicated [https://beautymatter.com/articles/is-everyone-lying-about-their-spf] (Published April 7, 2026) The Real Sunscreen Scandal Isn’t In Australia. It’s In The Lab [https://beautymatter.com/articles/the-real-sunscreen-scandal-isnt-in-australia-its-in-the-lab] (Published October 3, 2025) “Big Sunscreen”: When Misinformation Fuels Extremist Conspiracy Theories [https://beautymatter.com/articles/big-sunscreen-when-misinformation-fuels-extremist-conspiracy-theories] (Published June 22, 2025) — Follow Skincarma on Instagram [https://www.instagram.com/skincarma?igsh=d2JmemE3aXo0a3Fw&utm_source=qr] and on TikTok [https://www.tiktok.com/@skincarma?_t=ZT-8ubN2Gvz7xS&_r=1]. Catch product reviews of Carmine’s top picks of the best skincare on the Skincarma Blog. [http://www.skincarma.com] You can also connect with Carmine on Substack [https://skincarma.substack.com/podcast] and LinkedIn [https://www.linkedin.com/in/carminemontalto/] – and explore his extensive work in beauty on the Carmine Montalto INK website here [https://www.cminknyc.com]. If you enjoyed this episode, please subscribe, rate and/or leave a review on Apple Podcasts, [https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/the-skincarma-pod/id1793186495] Substack [https://skincarma.substack.com/podcast], or Spotify [https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PL7bGZdDAmYChhO1-WsRyu26PVGe9WFToy&si=H9AqKo1fDbAiToeA] to help Carmine reach more curious listeners. Product reviews on the Skincarma Blog: Explore the Best Sunscreens for Face here [https://www.skincarmanyc.com/best-sunscreens-for-face]. Explore the Best Retinol Face Creams and Serums here [https://www.skincarmanyc.com/best-retinol-face-creams-and-serums]. Explore the Best Vitamin C Serums here [https://www.skincarmanyc.com/best-vitamin-c-serums-for-face]. Explore the Best Niacinamide Serums here [https://www.skincarmanyc.com/best-brightening-serums-for-face-1]. Explore the Best Acne Treatments here [https://www.skincarmanyc.com/best-acne-treatments]. Explore the Best Anti-Aging Creams and Serums here [https://www.skincarmanyc.com/best-anti-aging-creams-and-serums]. Explore the Best Face Creams for Dry Skin here [https://www.skincarmanyc.com/best-face-creams-dry-skin]. Explore the Best Face Creams for Oily Skin here [https://www.skincarmanyc.com/best-face-creams-oily-skin]. The Skincarma® Pod is where indie beauty meets fearless curiosity. Hosted by Carmine, his podcast pulls back the curtain on the beauty industry with sharp insights, candid interviews, and a healthy dose of irreverence. From deep dives into ingredient science to raw conversations with dermatologists, brand founders, and industry insiders, each episode is a no-BS exploration of what really matters in skincare: how to attain and maintain healthy skin. If you’re obsessed with products, passionate about transparency, and love calling out hype, this is the place to learn, question, and glow smarter. The Skincarma® Blog is written and curated by skinfluencer, skincare junkie and Brooklyn writer Carmine Montalto. With 25 years of expertise in beauty across every category, Carmine has helped build multiple consumer brands from the ground up. He’s named 100s of skincare, haircare & makeup products – some of which are probably in your bathroom cabinet right now! And, he’s tested 1,000s of products, the best of which can be found reviewed on his blog at skincarma.com. [https://www.skincarmanyc.com] With the right skincare routine including sunscreen...You CAN change your skin’s destiny!™ Get full access to Skincarma® at skincarma.substack.com/subscribe [https://skincarma.substack.com/subscribe?utm_medium=podcast&utm_campaign=CTA_4]