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Lunch Break

Podcast af Jalil Johnson

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Kultur & fritid

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A podcast where you’re not just a listener, but part of a lively conversation among friends. It's authentic, engaging, and the only thing better than the dialogue is the delicious lunches that accompany it! consideryourselfcultured.substack.com

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episode Lunch Break with Noah Rinsky at Zabar's cover

Lunch Break with Noah Rinsky at Zabar's

In a way, Old Jewish Men brought me back to Judaism. I first came across it when I saw Liana Satenstein [https://substack.com/profile/23162964-liana-satenstein] post an Instagram story promoting a “Speed Schmoozing” event. Knowing she’d be there, along with the chance to engage in one of my favorite activities—meeting new people—I decided to buy a ticket. On the day of the event, I had no idea what to wear, so I threw on an Alaïa [https://shopstyle.it/l/cfZmA] skater dress that I’d bought and resold about three times. After seeing a picture of myself in it recently, I thought, "Maybe I should buy it again?" But that’s beside the point. At the event, I met Rabbi Matt Green, who would eventually become the rabbi I converted with, and the rest is history. I’ve since attended several OJM events, including one that was even covered by The New York Times [https://www.nytimes.com/2022/11/17/style/old-jewish-men.html]. (Unfortunately, that was also the party where my vintage white leather Dior gloves were tragically ruined by cotton candy.) What I’ve noticed at these gatherings is a lively mix: a gaggle of old-timers, some of whom have been featured on the OJM account, and a wave of younger Jewish folks seeking new ways to connect—not just with people their own age or slightly older, but with their faith as well as the broader community, Jewish and non-Jewish alike. When I sat down with Noah Rinsky, I shared a shorter version of this story. Over the course of our conversation, I learned so much about the Old Jewish Men universe and its quirky cast of characters: Dave, whose wife emailed Noah because she thought her husband needed something to do; Aaron, who responded to a Craigslist ad in 2021 and has stuck around ever since; and the latest addition, Bob, known for his love of Hermès ties. Noah started the account in 2015 under the name dadaroundthehouse, chronicling the antics of his father. Later, the account evolved into Old Jewish Men, and it has since grown into a thriving business. Along with social media [https://www.instagram.com/oldjewishmen/?hl=en], they now have a website selling clever merchandise [https://www.oldjewishmen.net/] that reflects the humor of the account—and recently, they’ve added a book to the mix. The Old Jewish Men’s Guide to Eating, Sleeping, and Futzing Around [https://shopstyle.it/l/cfYyX] https://shopstyle.it/l/cfYyXis a comprehensive handbook, written by Noah and illustrated by Dick Carroll, that humorously covers everything you need to know to consider yourself an OJM. I had the pleasure of chatting with Noah about the book and more, and where better to do it than over bagels (or in Noah’s case, a bialy) at the counter of Zabar’s? Jalil Johnson (00:00): So, thank you so much, Noah, for joining me. Can you introduce yourself and tell everyone who you are, what you're doing, and what you do? Noah Rinsky (00:08): Why I'm here? JJ (00:09): And why you're here? NR (00:11): My name's Noah Rinsky. I am the curator of an Instagram account called Old Jewish Men, and I wrote a book called The Old Jewish Men's Guide to Eating, Sleeping, and Futzing Around. [https://shopstyle.it/l/cfYyX] JJ (00:24): Yes. NR (00:25): So, Jalil was nice enough to have me on his podcast to chat about the book and probably ask me other questions. JJ (00:32): Yes, I'm very excited. I'm just taking out the book right now. It was really a fun read. It was really fun. And I think... NR (00:40): You read it straight through? JJ (00:41): I did. NR (00:41): Wow. JJ (00:42): I kind of... NR (00:43): Sure. I mean, if you read it straight through, great. But it's a toilet book. JJ (00:49): There are a lot of lessons in there. There's a lot that I want to talk about with the book, but I guess the natural start would be to ask you about Old Jewish Men. I kind of know about where it is, but just to give a synopsis to everyone that might not know Old Jewish Men and where the origins of it are. NR (01:07): Wait, what's that? JJ (01:08): I guess to give context to people that are not necessarily familiar with Old Jewish Men, what made you start it? When did it start? NR (01:17): Oh, the account and stuff? Yeah, sure. So, the origin is, I was visiting my parents in the great state of Israel, Tel Aviv. I'm not Israeli—my parents retired there about 12 years ago. Anyway, my dad was trying to get some exercise and was downstairs in our basement kicking this cardboard box. I just started recording him and thought it was funny, so I made an account called Dad Around the House. I posted the video of him kicking the box, and a couple of other things—him napping and stuff. These were the early days of Instagram, but I still had people being like, "Whoa, what is this?" (02:10): When I got back to New York, I was living on the Lower East Side with my brother on East Broadway. I just changed the account to Old Jewish Men because that seemed to be what people were thirsty for—not just my dad, but guys like my dad. I was living at that point in the epicenter of Old Jewish Men country in lower Manhattan. Yes. I would have to ask somebody who still lives there if it really still exists like it did, like the old Jewish men in that neighborhood, East River people. It's the other side of Dime Square. JJ (02:48): Yeah. Yes. Is there still a high population of Jewish people there? NR (02:54): Yeah, if they didn't die out. It was a really old community even when I was there. We were going to shul and stuff, and yeah, it was a really elderly community. JJ (03:05): Were you born and raised in New York? NR (03:06): I'm not, actually. I was raised in Colorado. JJ (03:09): Really? NR (03:09): Yeah. JJ (03:10): Colorado. When did you move to New York? NR (03:12): 2011. JJ (03:14): What made you want to move to New York? NR (03:16): A series of mistakes, I'd say. JJ (03:19): Do you want to talk about those mistakes? NR (03:21): No, I don't have any big plans to move here or anything. My brother was already living here. He invited me to come share this studio apartment with him, and I didn’t have a whole lot else going on, so I moved here kind of on a whim. I’d seen a lot of—well, we don’t have to keep talking about Woody Allen movies. I’d seen enough Woody Allen to want to move to New York or be intrigued by it. JJ (03:47): What do you think are the qualities of an old Jewish man? I guess this naturally leads into the book, because I think the book lays out a more analytical way. But just the heavy hitters—five points—what are the qualities you need to be an old Jewish man? NR (04:09): Well, nothing's ever good enough, except what you're saying in that moment. You’ve got to know how to tell a story, and you don't really care. It's not even that you don't care who's listening; you're going to tell the story no matter what. I think being an old Jewish man means you don’t even care enough to try to read the room. What’s the point? You’ve got something to say. Old Jewish men are going to interrupt you, talk over you. If they don’t think you're listening, they're just going to talk louder. They're not going to change course. They don’t negotiate—it’s their way or the highway. They prioritize comfort. Comfort is a huge, huge thing. I think comfort is something that really powers that... definitely powers me. But you're always kind of fighting against comfort too, because my dad used to say, "Make the decision absent of fear. Do the thing you’re going to do. Try not to let fear enter the calculation." Dave, the guy that's kind of the mascot of Old Jewish Men... JJ (05:21): Yes. How did you meet Dave? NR (05:22): Dave? His wife actually emailed me. We were doing a lot of stuff in the New York Post, and I think Dave’s wife saw it, caught wind of it, and she emailed me and said, "My husband just sits around all day watching baseball. You should get him involved." Take my husband, essentially. But Dave... he's very zen. It's weird. Then he'll say stuff to me. I was hanging out with Eli the other day, our intern, and he said to us, "I usually don't fall asleep until three in the morning. I'm always worried." I said, "Worried about what? It doesn't seem like you worry about anything." But I think he’s just sort of—everyone's got their things, anyways. JJ (06:12): Are you worried about anything? NR (06:14): Everything. JJ (06:14): Everything. NR (06:15): Everything. JJ (06:16): What are you excited about? Let’s make it positive. What are you excited about? NR (06:19): Well, the other thing about old Jewish men is the hypochondria. Which is classic. You're not an old Jewish man unless you're a hypochondriac. JJ (06:29): That’s very true. NR (06:31): Or at least, not even hypochondria—you just have to get off on talking about it. It’s like a pills-on-the-table sort of mentality. JJ (06:38): Yes. NR (06:39): You put your pills on the table and let people know what's wrong with you. JJ (06:41): Yes. NR (06:42): And you don't care about talking about the kidney stone that you passed 20 minutes ago or whatever. JJ (06:47): Well, that's funny you said that. I was talking to Larry Schlossman, who was a guest on Lunch Break, and I talked about Judaism. What I really love about it is that there is that acknowledgement of the reality of life. It’s not afraid of the bittersweetness of life. And I think that’s very much that "pills-on-the-table" vibe—like, why hide it? This is what's happening in real life, and we're going to talk about it. And I think that also fights against the fear in a way. NR (07:19): Yeah, I think that's true. JJ (07:21): Yes. NR (07:22): And there’s really... there's that chapter in the book about the archetype that’s "possibly Gentile." JJ (07:28): Yes. NR (07:29): And to me, it's such a gentile characteristic to pretend like this isn't happening. JJ (07:34): You’re like, a W.A.S.P.? NR (07:35): If you’re not discussing the thing that’s happening, you’re not really living. I think... why are we both sitting here pretending that you’re not 400 pounds? You know what I mean? JJ (07:47): I’m currently not 400 pounds. NR (07:52): Why is this not a thing? You know what I mean? I think that old Jewish men are willing... it’s like Kramer in Seinfeld. He’d be like, "Well, your nose is crazy." Remember that? Or whatever. Jerry was dating some woman or something... JJ (08:05): I’ve only actually seen a handful of episodes. NR (08:07): Oh, really? JJ (08:07): Yes. NR (08:08): Well, I mean, Kramer’s not really Jewish in the show. I mean, I don’t know. It’s hard. I don’t know. He’s not Jewish in the show, but he is. JJ (08:14): I feel like everything is coded like that. Question mark, maybe? I don’t know. I think this is a perfect way to start talking about the book. The first thought that came to mind when I looked at the book or read it was The Preppy Handbook [https://go.shopmy.us/p-7809543], and so I’m wondering... NR (08:31): Never heard of it. JJ (08:33): Really? Are you joking? NR (08:34): I’m joking. JJ (08:38): My question was, were you kind of thinking of that when you were putting together the book? NR (08:42): I had to run next to it. The Preppy Handbook was something that I thought about a lot, and I had it on the table a lot of times when I was writing. JJ (08:52): How’d you find it? They’re really hard to find. NR (08:54): They’re very hard to find. At first, I just had PDFs of it, and then my publisher found an old copy. It’s out of print. We share the same publisher, actually. JJ (09:04): I was going to ask if it was the same publisher, also because there was a whole line of... you probably know this... after the Preppy Handbook, there was The Yuppie Handbook, which I have and I love. But this is now adding to that legacy, which is really exciting. NR (09:23): Yeah. I don’t know who did it better. I don’t know. Lisa Birnbach... I don’t know what she’s going to say. JJ (09:32): I don’t know. Did she get a copy? NR (09:34): Yeah, I sent her one email. I didn’t hear anything back. Maybe I should email her again. JJ (09:39): Yeah, email her again. What’s the deal? But no, it’s a really exciting book, and the way that it’s broken up is interesting. Part of it gives archetypes for types of old Jewish men. So, you have the Tough Guy, the Possible Gentile, and my personal favorite, the Soft West Coast. NR (09:59): Yeah, Soft West Coast. JJ (10:00): Yeah, Soft West Coast. My favorite. I love his outfit. So, you have that in there. Then you also have chapters that kind of give you the rundown of how to be an old Jewish man. So, where did these ideas and archetypes come from? I think it’s, what, eight archetypes? Or seven? NR (10:15): I think there’s 10. I think there might be 10. I think eight or 10, yeah. JJ (10:19): And how did you come up with these archetypes? NR (10:22): I had a long... how did I come up with them? I came up with a long list and had to whittle it down. JJ (10:29): There were more? NR (10:30): Oh, I had a lot more. Yeah. I was asking a lot of my friends about their fathers. "How would you categorize your dad?" There were weird ones because I was also thinking about my own dad and how he kind of falls into this. And obviously, these are just archetypes, but Dick Carroll [https://www.instagram.com/dick.carroll/], the guy who cartooned everything in the book and cartooned the archetypes, kind of made me realize that a lot of these archetypes do come down to what they’re wearing in a lot of ways. JJ (11:09): I wanted to talk about the fashion. NR (11:10): And it is hard to think about... for example, my friend Eddie—I was trying to categorize his dad, and he was just saying, "Well, my dad’s like a sweet old Jewish man." It’s like, well, that’s not really exactly a category in itself. It’s somewhere between "Possibly Gentile" and maybe "Schlub" or something, you know what I mean? JJ (11:36): Yes. NR (11:37): And it’s just... there’s not enough really to hang onto. There’s nowhere to hang your hat on that. JJ (11:45): I was going to say, the thing that stuck out to me with those archetypes is how they were dressed. It was so important. And to your point too, you can’t have that archetype without the costume, in a sense. NR (11:58): Yeah. JJ (11:58): And so my question to you is, how did you piece together these outfits? Essentially, you styled these people out. How did you go about styling them? Who were you looking for? I guess you were talking to your dad, your friends' dads, and getting pictures of your friends’ dads, but what else were you doing to really build out these outfits? NR (12:17): Yeah, I think a lot of it honestly came from literally years of me going back and forth with Dick Carroll, exchanging pictures of old Jewish men without any knowledge that we’d be working on this book. It was just something we did for fun, and kind of always doing the little labels that we do now. Like, okay, this guy, he’s got a mustard stain there, he’s got his glasses stuffed in his pocket, he’s got this, he’s got that. He’s either upright or hunched. What does this say about him? He’s wearing these shoes. And we would always be like, geographically, we identified them by neighborhood, and the neighborhood signals certain things about what type of guy they are. And then once we started talking about the book, we already had so much of a back and forth and all this presumed knowledge of who these guys were that it wasn’t that hard, and Dick got it right away. JJ (13:09): Oh, amazing. NR (13:09): I mean, it was very... it was actually seamless. JJ (13:13): Oh, fantastic. NR (13:13): I basically gave him the list. We probably met up once or twice, talked about it. Dick doesn’t use the phone at all, so he only uses Instagram messages, which is extremely annoying. JJ (13:24): Really? I actually am into that. I love just communicating through that. NR (13:29): I think the reason why Dick does that, in my opinion, is because he likes the colors of the avatars. He likes being the avatar, and on the phone, he’s not that—he’s just some guy, and he knows that. JJ (13:44): Yes, I do it because I don’t save people’s phone numbers. NR (13:50): It’s a good way to organize. Instagram’s a way to organize. JJ (13:53): Such a good way. But I know some people don’t like it. I love it. NR (13:57): I’m not into it, really. I’d rather talk on the phone. I’m always trying to get Dick on the phone. I did it once when we were talking money. JJ (14:06): Yes. Oh, that’s a phone conversation. But it’s a really fantastic book. I just love it. The other thing I also noticed is, in terms of the designer belt, a lot of Hermes. What was it about? NR (14:22): On the Tough Guys? Which one? JJ (14:23): This one right here. The Tough Guy has Hermes. But what is it about the brands—the brands that you picked out—and what’s significant about those brands to the identity of the Jewish men? There’s not only Hermes, there’s the Gucci shoe, there’s the collared future. What do you think the sign of those brands means? NR (14:50): Those are decisions, actually. I think that specific Hermes belt was a decision that Dick made. Yes. And I think that those guys—the first Hermes belt that you just pointed out—I think Dick was taking from the Tough Jews archetype, which is kind of the Uncut Gems, three generations before the Adam Sandler character, his grandfather or whatever, his great-grandfather—how they dressed. And I think he was just kind of like a walker on the Diamond District. You’re probably going to see a lot of Hermes belts, Hermes ties. My friend Bob, he’s 75, I was hanging out with him yesterday, and he was talking about his Hermes tie. JJ (15:34): Oh, I love that. What kind of tie does he have? NR (15:36): I can show you a picture if you want. JJ (16:00): That’s amazing! NR (16:00): Yeah, he’s got great taste. JJ (16:04): So his name is Bob? NR (16:05): His name is Bob, yeah. Out of all the Jewish men, he’s one of my favorites. I love how he dresses. JJ (16:10): He’s a fashion guy? NR (16:11): Yeah, he’s a big fashion guy. JJ (16:13): Okay, so I should also ask, how did your gang of Old Jewish Men come together? NR (16:18): Yeah, Bob is kind of the newest addition, actually. I met him at shul. JJ (16:24): What shul do you go to? NR (16:25): I don’t go very often. It’s an Orthodox shul in Park Slope that I go to once in a while. JJ (16:35): Yes. NR (16:36): I probably go four times a year. JJ (16:37): Yes. NR (16:39): And Bob was there one time, and another friend of mine was there, and I said to my friend, "Who is that guy?" And he said, "Oh, that’s Bob. Do you want to talk to him?" And I said, "Yeah, I’d love to talk to him." So I started talking to Bob, and it’s a very weird thing trying to tell people, "Hey, I’ve got this gang, this stable of Old Jewish Men. We go around town and film gags or whatever. Do you want to be part of it?" Because one, you’re basically saying to them, "Hey, you’re old. I noticed you’re old." Two, you’re also asking if they’re unemployed or have free time to do this crazy stuff. It’s a hard thing to say. So, I needed my friend to kind of go over to him and be like, "Hey, Noah does this thing. It’s something that people kind of know about, and he’s interested in you." So, he did that, and he set up a date for us, and we all met at the 24-hour Donut Diner on Seventh Avenue. JJ (17:27): Oh, I’ve never been. NR (17:28): It’s a great place. Great donuts. And Bob, we were sitting there, and I go, "Bob, is it okay if I record you?" And he goes, "Why do you think I’m here?" JJ (17:43): He was ready. NR (17:44): He was ready. JJ (17:46): All your gang of Old Jewish Men, they love the camera. NR (17:46): They love it. They absolutely love it. Aaron lives in Midwood. I met him—he’s the only one in that crew that I met on Craigslist. JJ (17:57): Wait, did you put a Craigslist ad out? NR (17:59): Yeah, I did. Years ago, in 2021, Brian, my business partner, and I put this ad out. We did a casting call on Craigslist, and the first crew was probably eight to ten guys. We made a movie called OGM Capital with these guys. Then, once the word kind of got out, we picked up new guys like Dave, and we kind of whittled it down from there. Some of the guys were just too young to really be involved. JJ (18:31): Yes. NR (18:31): There’s a guy, John—I don’t know if John Ortner is listening to this—but he was good, just too young. JJ (18:38): Because as we were talking, your criteria is that you must be 70 or older, right? NR (18:43): Yeah, they really can’t be younger than 70. It just doesn’t work. JJ (18:49): I feel you. I did think 65 was a good benchmark, but I hear your point. 70 is solid. NR (18:56): You don’t know anything when you’re 65. You’re still a young man at 65. JJ (18:57): You know nothing about the world! Okay, so that is what kind of went into your gang. NR (19:05): Yeah. JJ (19:05): Are you accepting new members into your gang? NR (19:07): Always considering, yeah. JJ (19:09): Always considering? NR (19:09): Well, the thing is, we work with... I’ll still go. Aaron, for example, has a lot of friends that we work into different projects. The crew of those three guys—that’s the core group. We have a lot of other guys around it. I’ve got Aaron’s friend Tommy, who I’ll call, and different guys from the senior center that we did like the Candy Salad video. JJ (19:33): Yes. NR (19:34): I don’t know if you saw that video? JJ (19:35): Yeah, I did. I saw the shirt for it. It’s great. NR (19:39): And so, if we need more guys, we can always get more guys, basically. JJ (19:44): Okay. And how involved were they with the book? NR (19:46): Oh, I interviewed Dave and Aaron extensively. JJ (19:53): And so, with their interviews, did they inform all the chapters about the qualifications? NR (20:01): I interviewed Dave extensively about some baseball history, Ebbetts Field, and Sandy Koufax. Just listening to Dave tell these stories... I worked those into the book. I really don’t know anything about baseball. I’m more into basketball and football. JJ (20:16): Yes. NR (20:17): I’m into the Mets now, but I can’t say that I know baseball. I didn’t grow up being into it. So, I’ve been kind of playing catch-up. And Aaron, I talked to him a lot about the chapters on shul. JJ (20:36): Yes. NR (20:36):He’s a very religious Jew, so I talked to him a lot about shul. JJ (20:40):So he helped you give the shul types? NR (20:44): Yeah. I was asking him questions—how he sees it. If he sees it one way, then in some ways, that can’t be wrong. You know what I mean? Have you ever seen somebody turn down Hagbah or something like that? You know what Hagbah is? JJ (21:02): No, what is it? NR (21:03): Hagbah is when you lift up the Torah. It’s supposed to be an honor, but if you drop it, then everyone has to fast. If you drop the Torah, everyone fasts for a day. You’re supposed to fast for something crazy like 40 days. JJ (21:17): Oh, wow! NR (21:28): Aaron and I had a lot of discussions like that. I don’t go to shul enough to be an expert on this stuff. JJ (21:39): Okay. One of the other chapters I really loved, and part of the reason why I chose Zabar’s—not only because it’s an iconic place but... NR (21:49): That’s my least favorite word, by the way. JJ (21:51): Iconic? NR (21:51): Yeah. JJ (21:52): Tell me more. NR (21:55): Every time I hear it now, I just think that we’ve all gotten to this place where it’s such a good word, but we’re addicted to using it, and we’re too lazy to find an alternative. So we’re just stuck with that word. JJ (22:09): I would agree. I think it’s overused, oversaturated in the vernacular. Okay, so let’s find a different word for iconic. NR (22:17): Classic. JJ (22:18): A classic. NR (22:18): A staple. But neither of those are as good as iconic because iconic is a great word. That’s the thing. JJ (22:24): Yes. NR (22:25): But it’s kind of been soiled by overuse. Who do we blame? JJ (22:28): The overuse? NR (22:30): Vogue? I don’t know. JJ (22:34): You’re going to get in hot water with your wife. Okay, I will fill in the blank with a different word other than iconic or staple. No, I love this. It’s a good argument. I think the same thing about "love," actually. I think we overuse the word love where it feels watered down. I remember in college I was that student who asked, “Is there a different word for love? Did the ancient Greeks have different words?” Actually, the ancient Greeks did have all these different levels of love. But none of those words made it into the vernacular. NR (23:28): Yeah, I mean, the difficult part is describing love. That’s what every jazz song and poem is about, I guess. But yeah, the word love itself is kind of... JJ (23:49):People throw it around. NR (23:50):Yeah, exactly. But we don’t have to talk about love. JJ (23:50):No. NR (23:55):But it’s funny, too. Most songs, when you think about it, are about love. JJ (23:54):Which I find so interesting because there are so many ways to talk about love and relationships. We just don’t have a variety of words for it. But that’s beside the point. We’re at Zabar’s, and part of the reason I picked it was because of its status. It’s an amazing place. I remember coming here during my first year in New York. This was one of my “must-visit” stops, and I had a lox bagel—it was really delicious. You also have a chapter in the book dedicated to the deli landscape. It’s kind of like a chart. So, what does Zabar’s mean to you? NR (24:38):What does Zabar’s mean to me? Let me think... JJ (24:47):What’s your first experience with Zabar’s? NR (24:48):Well, actually, I’m attached to Zabar’s because—though I don’t know how he feels about me—but Willie Zabar, the grandson, is a good friend of mine. I’m not even trying to name-drop Willie or anything. Willie’s one of these guys who’s always contributed a lot to Old Jewish Men. So much so that he went to Detroit with me to film and do the behind-the-scenes work for our movie Sauna Dreams. And I really respected Willie for being dedicated enough to the spirit of Old Jewish Men to want to do that. I’ve met his brothers, his grandfather, and his great-great uncle, and I’ve got a lot of respect for what they’ve built. I mean, what a business! JJ (25:50):An institution. NR (25:51):Yeah. JJ (25:51):Maybe “institution” is a better word than “iconic.” NR (25:56):Yeah, it’s a real institution. It really is. I think it’s a great sign when a place can do so many things wrong and still be loved. Zabar’s can mess up—they can be a Jewish deli that serves bacon, they can have high prices, they can gouge you—and people will still look at them like they’re the great Jewish deli. You know what I mean? So maybe it’s not about what they’re doing right. Look at all the stuff they’re doing wrong, and yet we still go there. JJ (26:33):We should talk about what we ordered. NR (26:40):I’m kind of off bagels right now. I’m ordering bialys. JJ (26:44):Yes, which you talk about in the book, too. NR (26:45):Yeah, yeah. I talk about bialys. Bagels wear me out now. I’m too old for bagels—I have to take a nap after. But I got a bialy with lox and cream cheese, the works, and I ate it much faster than you because it’s a much smaller sandwich. JJ (26:58):Yes. NR (26:59):And it’s funny because I’m usually a really fast eater, but I was savoring it. NR (27:03):Yeah, I eat very fast. I was also really hungry coming here. JJ (27:07):I was too, and I still took my time to eat. NR (27:10):Yeah, I wolfed it down. JJ (27:11):Yes. I got my usual, which is an everything bagel. NR (27:15):Toasted or untoasted? JJ (27:15):Toasted. I have done something blasphemous in the past, though—I’ve scooped out the bagel. NR (27:23):Yeah, that is blasphemy. JJ (27:25):But it kind of feels better. NR (27:27):Why do you do that? Is that for calories? JJ (27:31):Well, I don’t do it for the calories, but I think, to your point, a bagel has a lot of bread. Scooping out the inside takes out a lot of that excess. So, it almost feels like the meeting of a bagel and a bialy because it gives you the amount of bread as a bialy but still has the sensation of a bagel. NR (27:52):Yeah, you’re fooling yourself into thinking that, but I get it. JJ (27:55):That’s my rationale for scooping out a bagel. I didn’t do that today, but the last few times I ordered bagels, I’ve been scooping them out. NR (28:06):It’s funny—my issue with that is, if someone handed me a scooped-out bagel, I’d eat it all day. But I could never order it. JJ (28:16):Would you feel embarrassed? NR (28:17):I’d feel like an idiot. It’s like asking the cashier at Duane Reade to give you a bottle of laxatives or something—it’s just embarrassing. That’s why I couldn’t do it. JJ (28:31):It’s not in the book either, right? I don’t remember seeing it. NR (28:35):Scoop? No, I didn’t put that in the book. JJ (28:35):But you didn’t shame it, either. You don’t shame it. NR (28:41):I don’t shame it, no. I probably just forgot. Also, it goes unsaid—you’d never do that. If a guy did that... JJ (28:53):I feel terrible now. NR (28:53):No, I’m just saying if one of these old guys did that. But that’s the other thing—it’s so strange what some of these guys eat at delis, what their favorite orders are. You’d never believe it. JJ (29:07):What’s the craziest thing you’ve seen? NR (29:09):The craziest thing that they do all the time is, you go to a deli, and I’m always paying—sorry, I shouldn’t say that. Dave sometimes pays, too. But you go there, and Bob sometimes will just say, “All I want is a plain toasted bagel and a Diet Coke.” And that means: cut the bagel, toast it, put nothing on it, and hand him just a plain toasted bagel. That’s it. It’s basically like a prison meal. JJ (29:38):And a Diet Coke? NR (29:39):And a Diet Coke. JJ (29:39):Which is, I think, the worst Coke in the world. NR (29:41):He loves it. This guy lives on Diet Coke and cigarettes. JJ (29:49):And plain bagels? NR (29:50):Plain toasted bagels. Or, if the bagel’s fresh, he won’t even have it toasted. Dave, every time—plain bagel, toasted, cream cheese. Aaron, same thing. They don’t like lox. JJ (30:06):Really? Something so quintessentially Jewish. NR (30:09):I think Dave feels ridiculous paying that much for lox. JJ (30:18):Because it’s really expensive. NR (30:09):His family probably buys their lox at Costco, and you can’t rationalize paying for it at a deli if you can get it at home. I totally get it. JJ (30:26):I feel that. I usually go for a lox bagel, but I decided to keep it simple today. NR (30:25):Yeah, sometimes simple is good. JJ (30:26):So, another thing I found really interesting in the book is that while it’s New York-focused, it’s actually more international. There’s a great section where you’re charting restaurants in Detroit, London, and Paris. How did you get that intel? Did you have to travel? NR (30:50):I got the Detroit info when we went there for the movie. A lot of those places I asked people about when we were there. For London, I interviewed a couple of friends of mine, like David—what’s his last name? I can’t remember—but I interviewed him, and he gave me a list of places. I didn’t know anything about London. JJ (31:21):And LA? NR (31:21):LA I knew more. I put Courage in there because I love their bagels and I’m friends with them. It was nice for them to let us do an event there. Formosa—I used to go to the new Formosa Cafe; I never went to the old one. I also interviewed people from Miami, Boca, and New York. A lot of these places are from my friend Alex Trout, who’s another great future Old Jewish Man. He works on the obits desk at The Times. He’s the guy who would tell you that Old Jewish Men live many lives. JJ (32:02):Tell me more. NR (32:03):So, even today... what was the name of the guy who had the obit in the newsletter design? Manfred Kirchheimer. He was a film director who struggled his entire career, and then in 2018, 2022, he made four movies based on footage from the ‘70s and ‘80s. And in his last decade of life is when he shined the brightest. These guys just keep going, you know what I mean? They don’t hang it up. They’re powered by ambition. NR (32:44):And his obit came out, I think, last week, and my guy was saying T-Trot wrote it. The point is that in his last decade of life is when he basically shined the brightest. And these guys, they just keep going. You know what I mean? They don’t just hang it up. They’re powered by ambition. JJ (33:04):How long did it take to write the book? NR (33:07):Robert Caro, by the way—I'm definitely not a Caro completist at all—but just what I know about him and his work ethic, he’s definitely a Mount Rushmore guy for me. JJ (33:16):Okay, you’ve added a fifth person to your Mount Rushmore! But how long did it take to write the book? NR (33:23):The book? Well, the first draft… they over-ordered. They asked me for 70,000 words, but only needed 45,000. That took me about six months from beginning to end. In total, it was a two-year project. JJ (33:39):Oh wow, it’s been a two-year project? NR (33:40):Yeah. JJ (33:41):So you’ve been interviewing people for two years. How many people do you think you’ve interviewed? NR (33:44):How many old guys did I interview for the book? About 40, maybe. Yeah, something like that. JJ (33:56):Did you get to talk to Larry David? NR (33:57):What’s that? JJ (33:58):Did you reach out to Larry David? NR (34:01):No, I never reached out to Larry David. JJ (34:02):Did you try? NR (34:04):I didn’t try, but a friend of mine gave me his cell phone number, and I was going to call him, but I decided against it. JJ (34:12):Why? NR (34:15):I just thought... he doesn’t want to talk to me. JJ (34:20):What happened to facing your fears? NR (34:21):Yeah... well, you’re right. I should have. JJ (34:26):Do you still have his number? NR (34:28):I do. I still have his number. JJ (34:29):I think you should call him. Why not? NR (34:34):I was going to call him to ask him to blurb the book, hoping he would say, “I don’t blurb books,” and use that as a blurb. JJ (34:40):Yes. NR (34:41):But you’re right. You’re really right. I should have called him. I did call Robert Caro, though. JJ (34:47):Oh, how did that go? NR (34:48):His wife answered the phone. It was 9:30 on a Wednesday morning. I called their house, and I got the voicemail first. I left a message like, “Hi, it’s Noah Rinsky. I’m calling about The Old Jewish Men’s Guide to Eating, Sleeping, and Futzing Around. I was hoping to talk to Bob.” Then she picked up, and it was his wife, Ina. I said, “Hi, Ina, it’s Noah Rinsky. I’m calling about The Old Jewish Men’s Guide to Eating, Sleeping, and Futzing Around.” She said, “You want to talk to Bob?” I said, “Yeah, put him on.” Then Bob came on the line, and I said, “Hello, Bob. It’s Noah Rinsky. I’m calling about The Old Jewish Men’s Guide to Eating, Sleeping, and Futzing Around,” and he said, “Do we know each other?” I told him, “We have a lot of mutual friends,” and he goes, “What do you want from me?” I said, “I was hoping you could blurb my book.” And he said, “I don’t blurb books,” and hung up. JJ (35:35):Wait, is that one of the blurbs? NR (35:36):We were going to use it, but we didn’t. JJ (35:38):Wait, I feel like I saw the blurb list. There were some really great ones. Your wife had a great one. She said something like, “Master of this generation’s Dead Sea Scrolls.” That’s pretty high praise. NR (36:00):That’s high up there. She also has a really good sidebar in the book about baldness. JJ (36:04):Yes, which I really loved. I’m an advocate for bald men. My boyfriend’s bald. NR (36:11):Oh yeah? How old is he? JJ (36:14):He’s 38 this year. NR (36:14):Okay. JJ (36:15):So, a reasonable age to be bald. He’s been bald since 30. He’s been bald for a while. NR (36:23):Is he totally shaved, or is he just receding? JJ (36:27):He has hair, but there’s a complete bald spot. He’s not going to like that I’m saying this, but it’s the truth. He has hair that he has to cut, but there’s definitely a bald spot. NR (36:38):If you could compare his haircut to any famous person, what would it be? Does he have the Costanza? JJ (36:47):No, Okay. Do you know that guy who was in those Bourne movies? Jason…. This guy NR (36:55):Oh, Statham, yeah. I mean, that’s probably the most attractive living bald man. JJ (37:00):Yeah, that would be his hair. NR (37:07):You’re doing well, then. You’re doing good. JJ (37:07):Yes. So it took you about two years to write the book and you interviewed around 40 people? NR (37:14):Yeah, I’d say so. I interviewed all my friends’ parents, my own father, my mom—I talked a little bit about what it’s like being married to an old Jewish man. I also interviewed my wife’s father, and really, anyone I could. JJ (37:33):Have you always wanted to be an author? NR (37:35):I’ve always wanted to be a fiction writer. That’s always been the dream. JJ (37:40):Yes. NR (37:41):Fiction, and also screenwriting. But I’ve always been more into fiction. That’s where my heart is. JJ (37:48):Is there going to be a sequel to The Old Jewish Men’s Guide? I mean, this hasn’t even come out yet, but you can pre-order the book now. Do you foresee a second guide? What about The Old Jewish Men’s Wife Guide? NR (38:01):Why not? I don’t think I’m the right person to write it, but there could definitely be that book. JJ (38:06):You could oversee it. NR (38:08):I could oversee it. I would happily consult on that book. JJ (38:11):Yes. NR (38:12):I already turned in a proposal for a new book, and I will say that Fran Lebowitz is a central figure in it. JJ (38:21):Have you gotten to talk to her? NR (38:22):Not for this book, no. I’ve never spoken to her. JJ (38:27):I think she’s an honorary Old Jewish Man. NR (38:29):Yeah, we inducted her. She was inducted. JJ (38:34):Did you send her merch? NR (38:36):I’ve never sent her merch. I should. I think she’d get a kick out of it. JJ (38:40):Do you think she’d wear it? NR (38:41):I don’t think she’d wear it, but I think she’d look at it, say, “That’s funny,” and give it to someone else. JJ (38:49):Which is kind of a high honor. NR (38:50):Yeah. JJ (38:53):That’s pretty good. NR (38:53):She’d at least chuckle at it, and that’s fine by me. JJ (38:54):No, it’s amazing. NR (38:55):It’s fine by me. JJ (38:56):So, this has been really amazing. I wrap up my interviews and podcasts with four questions. The first one is, you, my guest, get to ask me a question. NR (39:09):Okay. What was the thing that drew you most to Judaism? JJ (39:19):Wow. Okay, that’s a good one. So, I was raised Christian. NR (39:24):And where were you raised, by the way? JJ (39:26):Virginia. NR (39:28):Where’d you go to school? JJ (39:30):College? NYU, which is also maybe where I converted to Judaism. There’s a large Jewish population here, so this seemed like the ideal place to explore it. But anyways, I was raised Christian, and I’m queer, so I was raised to believe that I would go to hell. That just didn’t make sense to me. Then Orange is the New Black had a storyline about one of the characters converting to Judaism, and they talked about how in Judaism, there’s no hell to put you in. I thought, “This sounds amazing.” So when I came to New York, my first Shabbat, I went to the Jewish Center at NYU. I didn’t know anything that was going on, but it felt right. I just love the feeling that there’s purpose—not saying there isn’t in Christianity or any other religion—but I love how in Judaism, there’s a ritual for everything, a prayer for everything. It just felt right. NR (40:34):It’s all feeling. JJ (40:34):Yes, it’s all feeling. It was a seven-year journey, and your wife was a part of it, actually. NR (40:58):She came to the mikvah? JJ (41:00):Yes. NR (41:01):Wow, I remember that. JJ (41:02):Yes, I have to thank your little family. They’ve played such a significant role in my life. Actually, Liana wrote that Vogue piece about me that kind of started a lot. It was because of your event where I… NR (41:20):Oh, it was from that event? JJ (41:24):No, she wrote it before that event. But your event is what got me back into my Judaism. NR (41:27):I remember meeting you at that event. I had never met you before. JJ (41:31):Yes, and now we’re here. NR (41:33):That was two years ago, right? JJ (41:35):I think so. NR (41:36):It was a summer event, right? JJ (41:37):Yes. NR (41:38):It was like speed schmoozing. JJ (41:40):Yes, yes. I wore an Alaia dress. NR (41:44):I don’t know what that is, but nice. JJ (41:47):That’s a very important designer. Ask your wife—it’s a very important designer. NR (41:49):Alaia? JJ (41:51):Yes. NR (41:52):How do you spell that? JJ (41:54):A-L-A-I-A. I think he was also Jewish. NR (41:56):Okay. JJ (41:57):Azzedine Alaia. Ask your wife. NR (42:00):I’ll ask her. JJ (42:02):Okay, so that’s my question answered. Now for my final three questions—all related to culture. Don’t be scared—they’re open to interpretation. Since my newsletter is called Consider Yourself Cultured, these questions focus on culture. The first question is: Who is the most cultured person you know? NR (42:21):How do you define cultured? Is it being well-read? Is it having decorum in everyday life? Is it someone who corrects you when you don’t know something? Someone who keeps up with the latest trends? How do you define it? JJ (42:43):It’s all of that and everything in between. These questions are open to how my guests interpret culture. NR (42:53):Okay, the most cultured person I know... my friend Susie, I guess. She seems to know everything that’s happening now, for better or for worse—probably because she’s a journalist. I guess all my friends who are journalists seem to be quite cultured. My friend Alex Trout—he’s probably not the most current with what’s happening right now, but he knows what came before. He works on the obituaries desk at The New York Times. He can do the most citations while making a point, using historic references to carve his argument. It makes you feel like you need to catch up and read a little more. So, yeah, someone like that. These New York Times guys really know their stuff. JJ (44:01):I would hope! I would expect it! NR (44:02):Yeah, there’s a reason why they work there. JJ (44:39):What is your latest cultural obsession? NR (44:49):Latest cultural obsession? Can you give me an example? JJ (44:56):Okay, so for instance, mine right now are those at-home machines where you can work out on a treadmill while watching TikToks or shows. I’m obsessed with them. NR (45:12):Got it, something like that... Well, I was talking to Liana about this—she just got a pair of those shoes with the toes, you know, the ones that simulate being barefoot. JJ (45:26):The five-finger shoes [https://shopstyle.it/l/cfYQg]? NR (45:28):Yeah, those. I started running with her probably a year ago, and it makes sense to me to get shoes like that for running—or even wearing shoes like that daily, to simulate being barefoot. I don’t have a pair yet, but I’ve read about them enough to know I’m interested. I wouldn’t say I’m obsessed, though. Another thing I’ve been into lately is watches. A couple of years ago, I bought a bunch of old Tag Heuer [https://go.shopmy.us/p-7813015] watches on eBay—probably seven of them—but most of them have water damage. Except for the one I’m wearing now. And they’re diving watches, so I feel like I really got taken for a ride on eBay. But I want to buy more of them! I don’t know why. JJ (46:27):More of the ones that are water-damaged? NR (46:28):Yeah, I like them. I just want to have more of the different colors. I like that they kind of look like children’s watches. JJ (46:35):Does yours look like a children’s watch? NR (46:37):Yeah, it looks like a little toy watch. JJ (46:42):Do you have a metal preference, or are you open to any? NR (46:44):I like silver a lot. JJ (46:50):Would you do gold? NR (46:50):I would do gold. I have a gold one—two, actually. One of them is all gold. And speaking of gold, we’re going to start making gold jewelry. JJ (47:00):Really? NR (47:01):Yeah, we are. JJ (47:03):Like real gold? Fine jewelry? NR (47:06):Yes, real gold. We’re working on it right now. JJ (47:11):That’s kind of amazing. NR (47:12):Yeah. JJ (47:15):Everyone’s doing jewelry right now. I’m doing a jewelry thing as well. NR (47:18):What are you doing? JJ (47:19):I’m coming out with a jewelry line. NR (47:20):Wow. JJ (47:21):Yeah. NR (47:23):What kind of stuff are you doing? JJ (47:23):I can show you after. NR (47:24):Okay, sure. JJ (47:26):I’ll just have to have you sign an NDA. NR (47:28):Sure. JJ (47:31):I don’t think we would design the same thing. NR (47:33):I don’t think so either. JJ (47:36):But that’s such an interesting pivot—jewelry. NR (47:39):Yeah. JJ (47:40):Why jewelry for you right now? NR (47:45):Well, it goes well with the stuff we’re already selling. When you see it, you’ll know why we’re doing it. JJ (47:50):Okay. NR (47:52):It’s specific. It’s a specific lane. It’s not just about making necklaces for the sake of it. JJ (47:59):Yes. NR (48:00):But we’re getting into that, and we’re going to be doing more cut-and-sew stuff as well. JJ (48:04):Yes. You’re really great—I looked on your website today. There’s a lot of cool merch. Who designs your merch? NR (48:10):My friend Brian—well, my business partner Brian. He designs most of the pieces. JJ (48:12):Does he design the slogans, too, or do you co-design? NR (48:19):Well, he has the actual design skills. JJ (48:21):Yes. NR (48:22):So, we ideate together, and then he works his magic. Actually, our intern, young Eli, has kind of taken the reins for our newest line that we’ll be putting out in the fall. JJ (48:41):What’s the new line about? Can I get a preview? NR (48:44):It has something to do with American sporting, but Eli is kind of relieving Brian from carrying such a heavy load with the designing. He’s been helping us a lot. JJ (48:57):I wanted to ask you something. You’re obviously riffing off established houses, most notably... can I even say it, or will that cause legal problems? I guess it’s known... NR (49:13):Who are you talking about? JJ (49:14):Ralph Lauren. NR (49:15):Oh yeah. Never heard of him. JJ (49:20):How do you all deal with that? Have Ralph Lauren’s people ever contacted you about the designs? NR (49:28):Thank God, no. If anyone from his legal department is listening to this, please don’t show him. JJ (49:35):We have to admit, though—he’s a genius. It’s kind of amazing that the most American brand was created by a Jewish man. That’s pretty fantastic. NR (49:50):Yeah. JJ (49:53):You can’t separate the two, which is a really special thing. Does that make sense? NR (50:01):Definitely. I mean, also by a guy who never went to design school, didn’t know how to design, didn’t know how to sew—he was just a guy who could weave these stories. JJ (50:15):I think that’s what’s special. He has an eye, and the way he thinks about things is very American. It’s an American brand, and it’s such an American way to design clothes—to think of it as something cinematic, a universe. I think that’s the thing about being American. I was a history minor, and my specialty was American history, and I think the beautiful thing about America is that it was a homeland for so many different cultures coming together. So this idea that Yiddish is part of the common American vernacular is amazing, and it speaks to that meshing of identities. Does that make sense? NR (51:08):Yeah. Just to add to what you’re saying, it’s like not only is Yiddish part of our daily vernacular, but it’s almost seen as a form of being cultured and educated, when really, it’s a language of peasants. JJ (51:32):Isn’t that fantastic? Isn’t that amazing? NR (51:35):That is amazing. JJ (51:35):Okay, so the last question I have for you is: What should everyone watch, listen to, and read to consider themselves cultured? NR (51:46):Once you’re done with The Old Jewish Men’s Guide to Eating, Sleeping, and Futzing Around, I’d say... I’m rereading some George Orwell right now, and I’m really enjoying it. So, that’s the first thing that comes to mind. You said listen to? JJ (51:57):Yes. NR (51:58):You always have to listen to Oscar Peterson if you want to feel that swing. And for what to watch... I just went to see Le Cercle Rouge [https://www.criterion.com/films/628-le-cercle-rouge] https://www.criterion.com/films/628-le-cercle-rougeat Film Forum the other night—they’re doing a Melville retrospective. His movies are very cool. If you like moody black-and-white, jazzy films with strong-jawed French protagonists who carry guns and rob banks, it’s perfect. JJ (52:38):What could be better? NR (52:39):Exactly, what could be better? JJ (52:41):Well, thank you, Noah. This was amazing. NR (52:43):Thanks, Jalil. Thanks for having me. I may earn some commission if you make a purchase through one of the links above. Follow me on Instagram here [https://www.instagram.com/jalil_johnson_/?hl=en]! This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit consideryourselfcultured.substack.com/subscribe [https://consideryourselfcultured.substack.com/subscribe?utm_medium=podcast&utm_campaign=CTA_2]

17. sept. 2024 - 52 min
episode Lunch Break with Daphne Seybold at Thai Diner. cover

Lunch Break with Daphne Seybold at Thai Diner.

During my first season at Saks, Vogue released an article titled “Fashion Week’s Coolest Street Style Stars are Behind-the-Scenes. [https://www.vogue.com/article/fashion-week-street-style-publicists]” That piece marked the first time I laid eyes on Daphne Seybold. Although I had previously met her virtually while interning at V Magazine, and even made several trips to the Comme des Garçons office for pickups and drop-offs, I never managed to catch a glimpse of her in person. But there she was in the Vogue article, wearing what I can only assume was one of her many Comme des Garçons pieces. With one hand tucked casually in her pocket and the other tousling her hair, she exuded a serene aura, no doubt influenced by her idyllic surroundings. One line from the piece that truly captivated me was her description of her signature style: "Katherine Hepburn à la Comme des Garçons. Oversized, layered, and easy, with vintage jewels from my mama, and always a flat: slippers, brogues, or creepers." The phrase 'Katherine Hepburn à la Comme des Garçons' immediately captivated me—how could I resist? I rarely use this word, but in this case, it's the only one that fits: chic. So, when I had the opportunity to sit down with Daphne to discuss her current role at Sky High Farm Universe and her 14-year tenure at Comme des Garçons, I knew I would walk away feeling even more inspired and enriched. After leaving CDG in 2022, Daphne transitioned to Sky High Farm Universe as their Co-CEO and also serves as co-founder and CMO. In our conversation, we delved into her remarkable career at CDG, including the all-important question: what does one wear when meeting Rei Kawakubo for the first time? And perhaps even more critically, how does one leave a lasting impression. As is my usual style, I won’t delve too deeply into my guest’s background here—I encourage you, dear reader, to listen to the episode or read the transcript for the full experience. Sky High Farm’s mission is incredibly close to my heart, and I find Daphne to be so intelligent and insightful that it would be a disservice not to make this episode accessible to as many people as possible. (After listening to this episode, I highly recommend going back to my conversation with Danielle DuBois of Sakara Life, where we also explore important topics about the food landscape. [https://consideryourselfcultured.substack.com/p/lunch-break-with-danielle-duboise]) On a side note, as i mentioned yesterday I’ve extended the discount promotion through tomorrow [https://consideryourselfcultured.substack.com/6e91bb69]. So if you enjoy listening to or reading these full-length interviews and don’t want to miss a single moment, consider becoming a paid subscriber. One more thing before we dive into Daphne’s episode: Sky High Farm Universe just launched their F/W '24 collection, co-created with Jen Brill [https://skyhighfarmuniverse.com/] of Homme Girls, and they’ve also released an all-purpose tallow balm [https://skyhighfarmuniverse.com/products/sky-high-farm-universe-all-purpose-tallow-balm] that is simply divine! I’ve been obsessively rubbing it into my hands, and it’s an absolute must-have. Jalil Johnson (00:00:00): Alrighty. Daphne, would you please introduce yourself and what you do? Daphne Seybold (00:00:07): Okay. I'm Daphne Seybold. I am the co-founder, co-CEO, and the CMO. We're a startup called Sky High Farm Universe, which is a brand that we built to generate advocacy and revenue for the food equity work of the nonprofit Sky High Farm, which is a farm that's based in the Hudson Valley. JJ (00:00:29): Amazing. So the first time I met you—and we didn't even really meet, it was over email—was when I was still assisting in the styling world, and you were at Comme. So it was probably when I was assisting Scott Shapiro when he was at V Magazine. That was my first encounter with you, and I think the first time I actually got to meet you in person was via Sidney Munch, who I used to work with as well when she was in the styling world as well. And so it's been really amazing to see the growth of Sky High Farm; it has been really fantastic. And so before we get into Sky High Farm and what you're doing right now, I would just love to know where you came from, what brought you here, and what were you doing before Sky High Farm? DS (00:01:16): So I consider myself to have a pretty intersectional identity. I was born in Canada, grew up in Hong Kong, was educated at British schools in Hong Kong, then went to UCLA for undergrad, and then eventually moved to New York because it was always my dream. Just having lived in all of these different places, it's really informed, I think, not only my identity but hopefully my ability to empathize with people of all different stripes wherever I go. I want to be in places that are densely populated, surrounded by people that are different from me, but also eat different food, look different, dress differently. And so eventually, when I moved to New York, which was, I think, 2005, I thought I wanted to be a fashion journalist. At the time, I was really inspired by Cathy Horn, and I just loved the sort of frankness of her delivery. I thought, okay, maybe I should—I had an English degree—and I was like, maybe I should try to get my start out there. So I moved. JJ (00:02:31): Were you writing when you were in school? Were you writing fashion critiques or...? DS (00:02:35): No, I was just reading. And most of our friends and peers in fashion, I devoured magazines. And growing up in Hong Kong, it wasn't always clear what would get imported, but also you’d get the latest issue of Vogue or Self Service or whatever months and months later. They'd come out when the next issue was hitting over here in Europe. So I really kind of clung to what I saw in those issues, and they really kind of informed me of what the industry could look like or what kind of role I could have in it. When I came out here, I decided that in order to convincingly write about fashion, I needed to go to school to learn how clothes were made. And so I did a degree at Parsons—a Fashion Design degree—just to understand construction and hopefully some of the history. And during that time I interned like crazy. I think my first internship was at Mayle, which is Jane Mayle's brand, but I also interned at Alexander McQueen. I did a wholesale internship there, I did a knitwear internship at TSE, I did a brief internship at V Magazine, and I interned at Comme des Garçons. (00:04:05): I made it sort of my business to try to understand every facet of the industry because I don't really think you can figure out what you don't want to do without having actually tried it. So it's funny because a lot of those experiences were formative, and they ended up bleeding over into the job that I would take on at CDG, which at the time I sort of landed there as an intern in the press department, and it was only a press department of one in the U.S. We were still communicating with faxes. It was crazy. JJ (00:04:37): Oh, in 2005 or what year? DS (00:04:40): 2007. Shop my At Present Edit [https://go.shopmy.us/p-5877924] JJ (00:04:44): Wow. But I think that's another interesting thing too, in terms of during the internships and terms are very important. And it's also funny that you interned at V because I was at V as well, but when you were interning, were you also working another job, or how were you able to intern? Because I think that's another thing people often think about. I have questions about, it's like, okay, you're interning. And especially, I think pre-2000—I don't know when the lawsuit happened—a lot of interns weren't paid. You’re just really just unpaid labor. DS (00:05:18): That all happened, that stuff at Harper's Bazaar and elsewhere, happened when I was at CDG. And I'd been there for a long time. It's interesting because I actually interned while I was at school because I knew immediately when I graduated that I had to get a job because I was Canadian. And so I really kind of hustled and did as much as I could and then very quickly realized that it was actually going to be much harder than I had expected. And I remember this acutely. I was sitting in Parsons at their computer lab, and I applied to Vanity Fair thinking, okay, now's the time for me to really start building those journalistic credits. And I ended up getting an email from the then fashion director, Alexis Bryan Morgan, and she calls me in, she's like, listen, I know you applied for an internship, but you could in theory become our new fashion assistant. I was so excited I even contemplated dropping out of Parsons to do that. I was like, when is this going to drop in my lap? I knew how competitive it was. Those jobs open up only when someone actively decides to leave. (00:06:37): No joke. The first question I was asked when I sat down was, you are a Canadian citizen, right? An American citizen? And I was like, actually, I'm not. JJ (00:06:48): Oh no. DS (00:06:49): And it's no knock on them, but I realized right then that despite being qualified, there was a bit of an uphill battle then. So I really spent a lot of time trying to prove my worth in these internships so that they could then hopefully take the leap on someone who I sort of had to prove that there was more value add than just a person that already lived and worked here. JJ (00:07:16): Because they would've had to pay for you to... DS (00:07:21): They would have to sponsor me. JJ (00:07:23): Sponsor you. That's what—so Vanity Fair, so I'm guessing it didn't happen? DS (00:07:28): No. So I finished my degree, and then I went to intern at CDG, and my predecessor left, and they said to me—and I remember I'd been kind of interning there for an extended period of time—they said, do you want her job? Which they referred to everyone as the head of. So I went from being an intern to being the head of the US PR effort very quickly. JJ (00:07:54): Wait, that's because of the size of the team at the very, yeah. DS (00:07:57): They're headquartered in Tokyo, headquarters in Paris, but Europe was very much a satellite, and so they only had one person doing the entire US market. JJ (00:08:10): Wow. And then also too, so going back briefly when you were in Hong Kong and you were getting those Vogues, was Comme one of those brands you were always like—was Comme already kind of in your perspective of fashion? What drew you to Comme initially for the internship? DS (00:08:30): I mean, I knew it through going to the department stores out there, but they didn't have a Comme store yet. I knew the breadth of Japanese design, but I hadn't had an opportunity to fully engage with it. And back then I couldn't afford it. I was in high school, and things like designer vintage—it was all very different then. Not nearly as easily accessible. I was really kind of reliant on going to the department stores to look around. But over time, I continued to follow the brand and understand that what makes them unique is their approach to fashion, which has always just naturally bucked the status quo. They never do anything for the sake of doing it. They didn't believe in diffusion lines; they believed that every collection that they put out had a reason to exist. And I was really always interested in beauty as a social movement, beauty as a sense of identity, beauty as self-expression. (00:09:42): And I remember my interview—I showed up wearing, at the time I was wearing a Vena Cava blouse and a pair of very nondescript wool pants. I was wearing heels. And then I also wore a McQueen scarf that I had gotten on my internship when I was there. And it definitely stuck out. But over time, when your eye adjusts, whatever you had trepidation about and sort of understanding that you only dress for yourself was very important to me. My husband still sort of laughs to this day. I have a lot of jackets in the closet with three arms or that you have to wear inside out or backwards. It's funny; my eye normalized to that pretty quickly. And I realized there were people out there who were actively inspired to think differently about how they could self-express, and that was always really interesting. JJ (00:10:40): It's beautiful. And I think that's also—that is the beauty of fashion really. I think fashion at its best makes a person think and change their perspective or change their opinion on something and really get excited about getting up and putting on that coat with three arms. DS (00:11:02): I mean, it's funny. I used to—this was back when the office was in Starrett-Lehigh, and I would—at the time, my husband was studying at Columbia. I would take the 1, 2, 3 down in my Comme couture, and then I would trudge out from Eighth Avenue all the way out to where Starrett-Lehigh is, which is 11th Ave, through the snow. And I would pack boxes all day. I mean, I had so many samples I had to send out, so I'd be in my Comme, literally just like—and it was kind of funny in hindsight, but I loved everything that the company stood for, that Rei and Adrian had built, what they stood for. And because I got such direct exposure to them, I was like, there's no other place in the world where I would get to talk to them directly at the age of 20, whatever. And then on top of that, the way that they sort of thought was a lot about—a lot of the people that came up through the company had been at the company for a while and really had absorbed the DNA, and they really entrusted young people to do the work of more senior people at other companies. And I just felt like it was a constant challenge. I was of course very much afraid of failing, but at the end of the day, it's a very self-selecting person that chooses to work there. JJ (00:12:27): Well, also, I am kind of dying to know, and I hope this is not vapid...what do you wear to meet Rei? What did you wear to meet Rei for the first time? DS (00:12:41): Oh my gosh. I'm trying to remember. JJ (00:12:44): I feel like that's very daunting. DS (00:12:46): Well, you know why it's hard for me to remember? Because I tripped. JJ (00:12:52): No! DS (00:12:53): On the stairs up to her office, the very first time I met her in person. We'd already corresponded over email by then, but, you know, I was in Paris for my first set of shows. I amble up the staircase and tripped right in front of her, and she was very sweet. She actually started speaking to me in Japanese; she'd forgotten that I was Chinese. I'm pretty sure I was wearing all black, and my wardrobe was minimal at that point. I'd started—pretty sure I was wearing Comme Comme, which is what she wears every day, which is all the kind of codes of CDG distilled into everyday wearables. But yeah, that's what sticks out in my head because I 100% embarrassed myself. JJ (00:13:40): You gave a lasting impression. DS (00:13:42): I mean, they didn't get rid of me. JJ (00:13:45): And then, okay, you were at CDG as the head of PR for how many years? DS (00:13:52): So my entire journey there was about 14 years and seven months. When I started at CDG, there was no Dover yet. Dover came in 2013, but by then I had already—it was kind of ironic. The nature of doing PR was such that I actually got to talk to all of my inspirations. I was on shoots because we would bring the clothes to set ourselves. I was on set with, or I organized stories with, Cathy Horn. I was shooting with Craig McDean, and I was with Karl Templar. I was with Mario Sorrenti. It was just like, Grace Coddington—all these people that I would never dream of having contact with, who I later became very familiar with, and many of them have supported me through this period too, like Phyllis Posnick, who's the legendary sittings editor at Vogue. She created all those iconic images with Irving Penn. JJ (00:14:52): Like with the bee and all those things. DS (00:14:53): Yeah, exactly. Some of the most arresting images. JJ (00:14:58): Yes, I'm getting chills actually. DS (00:15:00): I worked with her. And then a few months ago, we did a shoot for our first beauty product with Tata Harper. Oh my God. So just that there's so much goodwill that kind of followed. And I felt very privileged in that job because I realized pretty quickly that not only were they entrusting the world to me, but I got to talk to all of the experts in the industry. Even though I was scared shitless, you have to push back on Grace or push back on someone. It's not a great feeling. JJ (00:15:27): It must be terrible. DS (00:15:27): But I learned also—the brand like CDG, where we really were careful about the brand image and thoughtful about it—I tried to really approach those conversations with a sense of transparency about our goals rather than playing all of these strategic cards. I was like, okay, I'm 20-something years old. (00:15:46): All I can do is be honest about what we're trying to accomplish and see if they're willing to support us. And it turns out in life that tact has worked pretty well. I'm not a hardliner. I can't walk into a room and be like, I want this, and walk out. And I think that's also a reaction to how in the old days, a lot of the fashion industry was run. It was like one figurehead, I'm going to prescribe the rule of law, and everyone has to live by it. Now, I feel like we live in a society that's much more flat and more voices can come to the table. So anyway, I was in the head of PR job at CDG, doing all the shows, doing every kind of whatever, launch, all the press release writing, all the send-outs, all the show prep, all of everything. And then Dover Street opened in 2013, and they trusted me enough to let that fall under my remit as well. So then I sort of became very well-situated actually to manage the PR work for so many emerging brands... JJ (00:16:53): I was going to just say... DS (00:16:53): ...in the store. JJ (00:16:54): When I think of Dover, I think about the vast amount of emerging brands that they've helped really start in a sense. And that's pretty amazing that you were getting that first experience with them too. DS (00:17:06): Oh, a hundred percent. I mean, I remember Simone. Simone and I are around the same age; we're friends. Craig Green—I remember when I walked into the show in Paris, and he would be there. And at the time he was with Barbara Anii at Drk or Dark. I've never known if it's... but really it was the early days. Melitta Baumeister, Marine Serre—I got Marine Serre her first piece in the New York Times. Just I sort of saw myself as an agent on behalf of all of these young brands that needed support and visibility. I got a piece for Idea Books in the New York Times. They were Idea Books back then. They've become Idea now. But this idea that through the credibility of CDG and Dover Street, we could lend our apparatus to supporting so many up-and-coming designers was amazing. JJ (00:18:02): It's really fantastic. I think I talk to so many people about this. We're in a very interesting retail landscape, and especially emerging brands are so important. And we're going to talk about the brand that you're with right now too. Sky High Farm, which I still see—it's a small brand—I still see it in that emerging category. They're really important. I think they lay the foundation for the industry. They set the trend, whatever they may be, they set, I think, the initiatives for where we're going. So I think about sustainability, I think about investing in initiatives such as food sovereignty. I think those are all important things that we all collectively will have to start thinking about and we should be thinking about. But I want to talk to you about what made you take the step from the world of CDG—which I mean Sky High Farm is still in that world—but go to a different company. Going into a small brand. DS (00:19:03): So towards the end of my tenure at CDG and Dover Street, which frankly I feel is the biggest gift I could ever have had as a career. Dover Street sat at the center of something where you could convene all this energy and power. And I think that's what really got carried through to Sky High Farm, which is really how we got our start. And at the time, I think it was 2018-19, I met Dan. He had already founded the farm, gosh, in 2012, and had been doing that food equity work for that long. But he wanted to make some products that he could sell in a retail space that bore the brand's—not the brand, sorry, it was under the umbrella of the farm—but could bear the farm's icon and be a physical object that someone could interact with and learn more about the farm through. So we met through Marissa Jartcky. (00:20:07): Dan and I began working on a project with my then Vice President, James Gilchrist, and Matty Friedman, who you know, and it was really about utilizing the time—it was vintage clothing, much like you're wearing now, that we could customize and use to uplift not only Sky High Farm but other food equity partners that the farm had. So we organized a talk around a vintage collection for these customized goods and also some jarred products, did it in New York and in LA. We hauled a tractor into Dover Street Market LA. And then the pandemic struck. And Dan and I at that point shared friends in common but had not ever formally met and then really interacted extensively. And he invited me to be on the founding board of the farm, which at the time was myself, John Gray of Ghetto Gastro [https://ghettogastro.com/?srsltid=AfmBOopSbLKkXhCFwGItP9yJKbrDzhdarepWr_sm-6W2vfa-bsylMVRE], Josh Barfield, who's now stepped off the board and is the co-executive director of the farm. And that's slowly expanded to include many wonderful people that work in the communities that we serve as well as some other experts. But we were in dialogue and the pandemic hit. It was really hard. Everyone was losing the shirts off of their backs. I realized people were really hurting. We would be trying to move goods to keep the store going and had a job to fulfill; it employed all these people. And I just felt like there was such an urgent river of need, and I'd become more attuned obviously, to food sovereignty work at that point. So that happened. And then BLM... JJ (00:22:13): What was the moment that turned your eye to that? Because I feel like you've always—from before you even got to New York—you always had attention to community. So was food poverty something that—when was the exact moment that you became aware of it? DS (00:22:34): I mean, honestly, when I moved to the States, I had come from a homogenous society and gone to a school that was very diverse. But also people's relationship to food back then, or over there, was very different, right? Food wasn't expensive. You could go to a wet market and buy your fish, fresh fish. It wasn't like the kinds of New York prices you're seeing. And it was actually only after I moved to the States and was at a big public school for college. And I really sort of credit UCLA with this. I mean in hindsight, sometimes I'm not sure I should have gone there, but I realized that watching a public school at work and the dynamics within it—it was essentially a small city. It was 50,000 people. There was so much unrest. People were always protesting something. And of course, California has a relationship to agriculture, right? (00:23:28): So I sort of understood a little bit about it then but was really becoming immersed in the dynamics of living in the States: inequity, the way the makeup of the States poses this tremendous chasm between the widening gap between the very wealthy and the impoverished. And so when Dan invited me to be on the board in that sort of immersion, it really kind of—something I became really kind of—not infatuated with it, but I saw a pathway to participate. Whereas before, even though I'd always wanted to volunteer—it was something that me and my friends would be like, oh yeah, when we have time, we're going to do this on the weekend. But at that point we were working 60, 70 hour work weeks and it was a lot. There was no free time. My identity was so wrapped up in my work, and this really allowed me to see that there was a world of need, but also that there was a pathway or an avenue by which I could play a very small role in it. And so around about just following those really sort of pivotal social justice movements—BLM, which is still with us obviously, API—I said, gosh, I don't think I can do the status quo anymore. And there's nothing about CDG that's rote. But I needed to step out of that cycle a little bit. (00:25:01): It was a hard choice because they're my family. JJ (00:25:04): You've been there for so long. You really, in a sense, grew up there. DS (00:25:08): I grew up there. I spent all my formative years there. I married my husband during those years, had my first baby while I was there. It is a part of my makeup now. And I think what really informs a lot of my approach to what we're building, but I remember just sort of thinking, I have agency, I was like, I'm the age I am now, and this is as good as it's going to get. I'm not going to wake up tomorrow and be like, oh, I've now metamorphosed into another person. This is it. And I kind of have to trust what I know and the relationships that I've garnered, the friendships that I've made, the little wisdom that I think I have. That's it. I got to make something with that. And Dan and I sort of realized that there was a world in which we could start a brand because the farm had these wonderful icons. We'd already seen the power of those icons to interact with people within the public sphere. They're uplifting; they're playful. When you look at it—I mean, the shirt that you're wearing doesn't even have the name on it, but it's so recognizable. JJ (00:26:28): I would love to talk about this too. So for the viewers is a strawberry sitting on top of the moon. And so where did this idea, this iconography, come from? DS (00:26:40): Well, that really preceded me. So in the years where the farm was operating, Dan worked with the illustrator, Joana Avillez, who's still a very good friend of ours, to create these icons. And there's a whole host of characters, and they're all things that come off of a farm. But it's kind of funny because a lot of people think the moon is a banana, which could be the case. But I have this sort of acute memory: Jake Gyllenhaal was wearing a pair of our sneakers, and I think the stylist—I don't know who it is at the moment, I know who used to take care of him before—but she clearly put these sneakers on him, and he's sitting at a press event, and I forget who was sitting next to him. It was a pretty renowned actor, but he was like, dude, what's up with your shoes? And he's like, well, it's a strawberry and a banana. And then I realized the icons have a capacity to transcend. They're funny. They're cute. They're youth- and adult-appropriate. There's just something in them that is just engaging. JJ (00:27:46): I think the colors too. I feel like red is such a warm color, and I feel like so many people—red and yellow—they just feel very calming. And I think that's also when I think about the farm, I think about the farm and the brand. Shop My Fall Wishlist [https://shopmy.us/jjohnson851] (00:28:03): This approachability to everyone. I think that's what this icon brings to me. It's like to your point, it isn't specific to an age group. It isn't specific to a specific person. It's digestible for everyone. And I think the farm's approach to the farm and the brand, there's something for everyone, which is quite beautiful. And I think something else that's sticking out to me—and this came to me when I went to the festival, which I want to talk about with you as well—it's like the brand and it's truly operating like a farm. There's a whole host of pieces there. It's truly... DS (00:28:44): Inputs, JJ (00:28:44): Inputs. They're truly a community. And that is one of the first words that comes to mind when I think about Sky High Farm is community. And it's beautiful because I think—we were talking off the podcast—but I think fashion sometimes can be very insular. It can be very elitist. And I would say to you, really, that has fostered such community, which feels really refreshing and beautiful and it feels new, especially in the fashion space. Beautiful. DS: So nice of you. JJ: Of course, of course. And I think there are so many people that are supporting Sky High Farm, and their support, they're there for you, they're there for the brand, which is really amazing. And what goes into building a community? DS (00:29:34): I think it's a purpose that has to sort of transcend all of our differences. And I just want to preface all of this by saying I'm one of a team of people that makes all of this happen. I really can't take credit for all of it at all because I realize it's a very spirited group of individuals, including yourself, that have decided to make a change in their work life to support something that's new and unknown. So I kind of see us all as kind of this renegade crew that's building something from scratch that has no known outcome. (00:30:18): But to the point about community, coming from a place that had a very strong identity and sense of community, it seemed obvious to me that that would be a big part of why I would go anywhere is that I would be able to foster something that would join what maybe seem like very different spheres of the world together. And in doing so, could actually broaden the community. And so much of the stated aim of the brand now is to basically coalesce the average customer who cares about these issues but may not be able to write a million-dollar check, may not be able to volunteer—I couldn't back in those days with corporate entities—asking them to participate with their dollars, looking at participants in an industry as a whole and saying, okay, every one of these different sectors or groups of people can be in dialogue with food equity work. (00:31:15): We just have to create the bridge. And I think that has really kind of served us because everyone understands the urgency that we should all be feeling around the state of the world, right? Climate change is fully upon us. The hardship that faces so many farmers is a story that needs to be told more. But also the way that the farm approaches community, and I just want to be clear that they are separate entities, and I'll explain why, but the farm centers its work around the communities it serves. So instead of being prescriptive about what the Ecuadorian community should eat, it instead says, what should we grow that they want? And that dialogue is sort of essential to informing the choices they make about what to grow and what to give away. It's also about giving the best and most nutritious food to people that have been deprived of it. (00:32:15): Many of them help grow it, but they actually can't afford what they grow. And these farmers that we're connected with, they don't benefit from the subsidies that the big agro-industrial complex benefits from. So it's really about empowering the next generation of farmers, right? Regenerative farmers and food system advocates through a model for a nonprofit. Now, I don't know how much you know about the difficulty of running a nonprofit, but you have traditional revenue streams, right? Donations and grants, but those are very much contingent on a wealthy donor's willingness to write you a check of a certain amount of money and that they're willing to do it continuously, right? Because most organizations need this funding to continue their work over time. But oftentimes also when you get grants, there are lots of institutional interests attached to those dollars. So the idea of creating a separate entity that could storytell, that could create vessels for this work regardless of the type of product, but that could also just raise as much money as possible through consumption that people were already engaged in seemed like a way forward. (00:33:28): And in looking at other brand examples that exist out there, you have something like Red, which was Bono’s AIDS and HIV nonprofit. They're still very much active. I think they've generated something like 750 million to date. And then a company like Newman's Own, which is the most ubiquitous salad dressing and popcorn and pizza in the States, they're a hundred percent of profits to charity. They've raised $600 million. I mean, the fact that people don't know this kind of tells you there's something to be said for being able to communicate right to the center of culture to where people feel like they want to be engaged. And if we can package it, which I feel like we're learning how to do in a way that feels like not only we're creating excellent products that are desirable, but people actively can be like, oh, I'm buying this because it's a great alternative to my other hand cream. But it also does something so much greater. JJ (00:34:32): Which I think you're hitting it right on the head about culture because there are a host of things I want to talk to in the realm of culture. One is we're right now eating at Thai Diner, and it's fantastic. We got the same meal, correct? Which is the second time in the history of this podcast has happened except you got a chicken version and I got the mushroom. But something really special happened where I picked this place sometime in terms of the restaurant, it's kind of a back and forth of who picks. I picked this restaurant because I knew last year there was a partnership with Thai Diner and Sky High Farm when you all were developing a drink. Yes. And I would love to hear about how did that come around? DS (00:35:17): So even before we had a clothing line, Dan and I were conceiving of a beverage. It just seemed obvious that we should do something in f&b, but all things, and especially for two people that never set out to make a brand—a clothing brand, at the very least—we learned the process from scratch. And we were very fortunate to have linked up with a fellow named Andrea Schneider at FedUp Foods. And his company is a company that was born out of a desire to rethink the beverage system because that's also very broken. I think that's something that I would say to everyone on this podcast is just that now that we straddle so many industries, you see that they're all dealing with their own systemic issues. And so we learned from scratch how to make a product. We conceived of something that we thought was delicious, a sparkling water flavored with honey. (00:36:16): We love the idea of using honey because honey is great for people to understand the pollinator story and the ecosystem of the farm, but people also understand the plight of the honeybee, which is a very real one. And so we brought that to market, and I'm friends with the owners of Erewhon Market, which of course is a very beloved grocery store. JJ (00:36:39): I've yet to go. DS (00:36:40): Oh, you must. And we essentially launched the drink there. They were very generous with us and also some merchandise to accompany it. And I was really interested in this idea of cross-pollinating—having a beverage, but then also doing clothing with them, thinking about the lifestyle that you could create out of these types of more responsibly produced goods. The drink was a great success. We got so many people contacting us. We were putting it into industry events. And I put it on pause recently because I want to make it shelf-stable right now. (00:37:18): It's a pre- and probiotic drink, so it has to be refrigerated. It has a lot of fiber. We wanted to work to tweak the formulation so that it could have a great shelf life. But what Thai Diner did for us, which gave me a tremendous amount of confidence, was I emailed Ann, the owner, and I was like, would you be interested in carrying this here? She immediately wrote back and said yes. Ann basically was like, we'll take the product in and we'll give you all of the profits from its sales. And I was like, wow, what an act of generosity. (00:38:13): The margins in beverage, in food in general, are so low; for her to do that was really remarkable. And I realized that in some ways, restaurant owners and the people that work in the service industry and hospitality industries, their connection to the land is very real because they’re dependent on the products that come from it. And so the plight of the farmer is equally as prescient to them as an issue, as many other things that we're dealing with. And so seeing that we could transcend this fashion as a space and apply this model broadly was very attractive. JJ (00:38:48): And it was a delicious drink. I can't wait for it to come back. And what made you pick Thai Diner specifically? Is this your...? DS (00:38:59): I had met Anne through friends but have always just loved the vibe. When you come in this restaurant, the food is incredibly cosmopolitan but very well made. And it's always full when I come in. And I feel like there's so few restaurants in New York now that are price-accessible but also make great food that is dependable. And we have a lot of shared friends in common, so it seemed like a great starting point. But yeah, we sent it here. We sent it to Attaboy, which I don't know if you're familiar with them, but they're these two really, really esteemed. It's a chef and his wife. And his wife is my friend, Elliot Park. And JP, they own Atomics, which is one of the best or most highly rated Michelin star Korean restaurants. JJ (00:39:51): Oh, I think I have heard of this. DS (00:39:53): Yes. And they have a whole restaurant group now, so they've got Naro at Rockefeller Center. And they were very supportive too. They're like, we'll put this on the menu. And I was like, wow, really? Their food is amazing. And then the other group that I called was Four Horsemen, because I'm very good friends with Christina Topsøe and her husband James Murphy. They're part owners of Four Horsemen. And I also am very good friends with Amanda. I'm forgetting her last name now. She's going to kill me, but she's not. Well, I just think of her as Mandy in my mind, Amanda McMillan. She was once in PR at PR Consulting and then went on to basically become, I think the general manager for Four Horsemen. So I was like, do you think you could put this on the menu? And she's like, yeah, send it over. Let's see what it tastes like. And just that generosity and everyone's sort of willingness to just take the drink without really knowing if it was vetted or good was kind of inspiring. JJ (00:40:54): It was. And then something else that we have right here too, which is, again, not a fashion-based product, but I think this again speaks to the ecosystem of everything, is a balm. And I got to try it at the festival this summer. And what made you all want to design a balm? DS (00:41:16): Well, first of all, we just embarked on a partnership, a collaboration with Tata Harper, who for me, even long before I knew her, I was a tremendous fan of what she'd built. And there was something very sort of convincing about a partnership between two farms. She is the leader in clean beauty. She has a very devoted and loyal following, and she's just like a wonderful human being, as is her whole team. And we saw that there was appetite for something like this from us, but also all of these raw materials come from the environment. They come from the earth, they come from animals, they come from wherever. And so the idea for the balm—maybe I would've waited a little longer to put it into the market—but was essentially came out of conversations we had with the farmers at the time. I'd also met this amazing group called Shellworks based out of the UK. (00:42:14): They had developed this amazing material called Vivomer, which is basically a plastic substance. It has no plastic in it, but essentially is created by microbes. It's a protein that's extruded from microbes when they're fed, and when it hardens, it behaves like plastic. But not only is it zero plastic, but it also fully decomposes in your home. Wow. So the idea of using a container like that, that was already illustrative of the sort of cyclical circular movement of the earth and the seasons and the soil, was really intriguing. But the idea for this balm, which I'll share with everyone, is a tallow-based balm, which for those of you that aren't familiar with it, is beef fat. Was this idea really that there's an ingredient that exists in a world that's highly efficacious and has been used for centuries. It really kind of tries to illustrate that there are amazing raw materials in the world that might be deemed waste, but that we really see as a co-product, something that comes out of the food system that has tremendous value. Tallow is packed with vitamins. It mimics the natural lipids in your skin, provides a really nice moisture barrier. It's an antioxidant, everything. And the thought that it could illustrate not only that there are these waste products that can be converted to something different, but also that we could potentially successfully create another revenue stream for farmers. Because most of the cattle that they send to the places where the meat is convert, the animal's converted to meat is wasted. 60% of the carcass is wasted. JJ (00:44:07): Oh, that's terrible. So this is a fantastic way to your point. This is all creating a place for those byproducts to go. And then there are 2 scents, I guess you would call them. Yes. So there's tomato leaf and... DS (00:44:23): Meadow. JJ (00:44:24): Meadow. What made you all decide between a tomato? What made you all pick these? DS (00:44:30): Well, I think we obviously wanted to ground the scents in things that felt familiar, but also specific to the scent experience on the farm. JJ (00:44:39): And I'm—for the listeners, our readers—I am putting it on right now. DS (00:44:44): Yeah, rub it into your hand and see how you like the way it absorbs. But essentially, tomato was inspired by when you're harvesting a garden, the smell that comes out of that bounty. We were thinking a lot about tomato stems and leaves, which is such a unique smell that we all know. And then Meadow is really about—it's inspired by upstate New York meadows that are kind of dewy and marine, but also have tremendous sort of earthy smells. So I'm curious, I think you prefer the tomato leaf, right? JJ (00:45:20): I think both smell amazing. I am a big tomato part. I love tomato. I hope it's tomato in anything. Me too. So I have kind of a bias for anything tomato. DS (00:45:29): Yeah, me too. JJ (00:45:30): But no, it feels amazing. I am very particular about hand products, and I told this to you too when I tried this Tata Harper, your collaboration with Tata Harper, fantastic hand cream. I like something that has, I feel like, a bit of weight to it. I really despise very liquidy, thin moisturizers. It just does nothing for me. And I think this is, it's great. It's not greasy. It has that nice weight to it. I love it. DS (00:45:58): No residue, no white cast, nothing. You wouldn't know. Oftentimes what I do is I put it on people's hands and then I tell them it's fat. And they're like, oh, where can I buy this? I got into an Uber the other day, and the Uber driver, I'm not even joking, or she was a Lyft driver, she wouldn't let me get out of the car until I told her where she could buy it and when it was because the scent was so fragrant. And I think it really kind of, like the aromatherapy, which is something Tata is really known for, was important to us. But I'm not a person that can do heavy fragrance. So it had to be sort of subtle and not feel too chemical. But I think that the cream, in some ways, it's so much the embodiment of what we do to support regenerative farming. It's a product that's conceived with the land in mind. It uses the resources from the land that the land naturally produces as part of whatever that cycle of life is. It's not about extracting more from the land than the land can provide, which is where we find ourselves in the current climate. We're basically extracting more from the earth than we put into it. And I wanted to, with Dan, with the team, turn that relationship to products on its head. JJ (00:47:18): That's amazing. And then too, when will this product be live? DS (00:47:23): Well, we're looking to launch at the beginning of September. So after Labor Day weekend, we want to make it really price affordable, whereas the Tata cream is a little bit more expensive. That retails for $50. But everyone should know that Tata Harper is donating a hundred percent of all of her profits from the cream to the farm. So that's fantastic. So the price is a little elevated there, but this particular product, I think, will retail for $38, and it will last a very long time. You just need a little bit; a little goes a really long way, and you... JJ (00:47:55): Can put it on your whole body. DS (00:47:56): I put it everywhere. JJ (00:47:59): And then something else you were telling me too off, will this be available? So by the time this is released, but Barney's is coming back for a brief moment. DS (00:48:10): Yes, yes. We plan to sell our tallow there. Barney's, through the sort of continuing generosity of Julie Gilhart and Simon Doonan and the entire team at Hourglass Cosmetics, they will be hosting a multi-week Pop-up in Soho. Sky High Farm Universe is really sort of privileged to appear alongside many of the brands that Julie helped discover. But Barney's is an identity that has such equity. So the opportunity to show alongside some of our friends Proenza Schouler, Thom Browne, they're all going to be there. And we get to have a platform that not only celebrates the clothing we produce—I think our next collection is co-creatively directed with Jen Brill of Homme Girls, who's a very longtime friend of Dan's, and a friend of mine now too. And we're going to essentially have tallow hot off of the presses there at the store. That'll be... JJ (00:49:13): That'll be fantastic. Oh my gosh, I can't wait to, I mean, it's going to be amazing. Iconic moment. DS (00:49:17): I hope so. I hope so. I hope that everybody tries it and loves it. And the festival was actually a very important moment for us to see if the concept had legs, because I didn't know if anyone would be willing to adopt a fat-based product. Never mind that it's used for... People use it for all kinds of biofuel for cooking. It's been used for time immemorial, but with this specific purpose, it's a relatively new thing in modern culture. JJ (00:49:47): Yes, and then I would love to talk about the festival too, because how... Well, the Picnic? Picnic, picnic festival. DS (00:49:52): Picnic festival. JJ (00:49:53): And how did that come alive? Because that was also amazing that there's so many people there. It was beautiful to see again, community. It was a beautiful community there. And so what birthed that idea? DS (00:50:06): Yeah, so the farm—and I'd love to just take a second to describe the work that it does. It's a nonprofit, again, it was founded almost 12 years ago or more than 12 years ago now by Dan and a group of co-founding team. From day one, they've donated a hundred percent of all of their regeneratively grown produce and pasture-fed livestock to marginalized communities. Over time, the organization in acknowledging that it can't feed everybody, has also undertaken this sort of mantle of helping to create equity in the food system and modeling that change. So we now write grants. This year we're writing $350,000 worth of grants to regenerative farmers, many of whom are BIPOC and unseen by the system that benefits from all the subsidies that Big Ag does. (00:51:02): They're people that are doing this work and actively stewarding change and fostering healthy eating habits in their communities, but are unseen. And in some cases, they exist in opposition to their governments. We also do a paid fellowship onsite, which is a nine-month program, which is very intensive. Six months are spent on the land over the course of the growing season. The next three months are spent on a research project. But the idea really is that people that are interested in jobs in the food system, whether it be in farming or within the actual work of farming itself like that, they can garner the hands-on experience that you actually need in order to have those kinds of jobs. Farming is the most laborious, most skilled labor. Every time I listen to our vegetable farmer talk about what goes into growing and all of the planning, I, I'm amazed she's an engineer and a scientist in one. (00:52:04): But if you think about what that kind of work is, it's not well paid. It's not acknowledged in the same way as other very high specialty industries or work. And so the idea there is to really arm people with the skills they need so they could find those jobs after the fellowship. Then we also do educational programming for youth. Many of the youths that are in the communities we serve, the farm actually is in the process of transitioning onto a much bigger property. It's 40 acres right now, and the property that it's moving on to is 560 acres. So it's almost like a small town. JJ (00:52:45): And how far is the farm moving from where the farm is right now? How far is it moving to this new farm? What's the distance? DS (00:52:53): It's down the street. Oh, down the street, which is pretty amazing. But the idea there is that they can really expand their capacity as it relates to the urgent food donation work they do, but with everything else too, and how that land can be used and stewarded, that's a longer process. But of course, it's important that we begin raising awareness around the work that we're doing as well as funds. So the festival was really sort of our first large-scale fundraiser for the farm. Whereas everything else had been small fundraising dinners. This was really meant to be the opposite of—it's like the anti-gala, not just a bunch of very well-to-do people who know each other, but rather really about bringing all of these people that we serve into dialogue with everybody else. And what was really kind of remarkable is in the same way that the brand is sort of set out to do this through products, we were able to bring together an amazing group of performers. (00:53:55): It was a one-day event in Hudson Valley: the Roots, Moses Sumney, Kelsey Lu, Michaël Brun dj’ed. And then we had Devon Tuscher, who was a prima ballerina at American Ballet Theater performed. But tickets were sold on a sliding scale. Some people in the community came for free. I think we'd allotted 250 tickets out of the 700 for free. And then the rest of the ticket prices range from $250 to $25,000. We were able to bring in a host of amazing fashion companies as donors. Actually, they weren't just fashion companies. We had Chanel, Gagosian, Levi's, Birkenstock, the North Face, Jansport, Nike. We brought in Luna Luna, which is that fair that's opened up on the West coast. Tata Harper was there, was there. So it was really just a collection of our friends and family that really kind of came together to help underwrite the project. And the brand had this amazing sort of merchandise booth where we sold goods, really trying to connect all the dots and using this sort of moment of gathering through music to enliven people's spirits and gather everyone. And then through the merchandise, to raise some additional funds. JJ (00:55:16): It was really fitting that it was upstate too. I feel like it not only is a problem up there, but I think there's something about that land. I mean, Woodstock is—I don't know how far Woodstock was, but Woodstock happened upstate. It was a very magical moment that day. I think there was something about a lot of people from the city coming to the land and getting to see all the greenery. There was a nature walk that Nike put on that was quite beautiful. And the trail guides told us about the different plants. And there are particular plants—I can't remember the name of them—that you can bite into if you are stung by a bee. But no, it's beautiful to see the land. And I also think it taught to appreciate the land that we're on because we only have one earth. And I think, again, a big part of Sky High Farm, the brand, and the farm is to remind us about the importance of where we live, the importance of the land. It was a beautiful moment. DS (00:56:19): I think there are few more beautiful outdoor performance venues than Kaatsbaan, which is in Tivoli, New York. And to be able to share in this moment with everyone outdoors—it was pretty idyllic. JJ (00:56:37): I had lobster rolls. DS (00:56:40): Lobster rolls. I mean, it's interesting. A lot of all the beverages were donated, so we had water donated, we had Moet donate, but all of the food vendors, we invited them to come in and there was no charge. They just sold their goods so that they could make some money. We wanted to give them the opportunity to generate some. JJ (00:57:09): Is this going to be yearly? DS (00:57:12): Maybe not yearly, maybe biannual. It's a lot of work. JJ (00:57:15): I like a biannual. I feel like there's something—it really builds momentum to the... I like it biannual. DS (00:57:21): Yes. Hopefully people won't forget what it is by then. (00:57:23): No, you couldn't forget. So this has been really amazing, and we're kind of nearing the end of our time together. I feel so motivated, not if I feel even more motivated now to get out there and spread the message. And also, I think food sovereignty is so important. I grew up in a very small town. I grew up with a working-class background. And so food always, I have a weird relationship with food. And so I think as I gotten older, I am contextualizing food and also the importance of what it does to our bodies. Yes. Also, making sure that people, no matter—food should not be a privilege in a sense. Everyone should have access to... DS (00:58:13): That's exactly right. JJ (00:58:14): ...good food, whole food, those kind of things. And I think what you all are doing is so important and it's making changes, and that's... DS (00:58:23): Really important. Thank you. Well, having someone like you model in our campaign with Cass Bird and styled by Samira Nasar was amazing, but I might just close on saying the brand has raised in two and a half years a million dollars for this work. And to see that this germ of an idea is bearing fruit, but has almost—it has so many directions to go in and expand into—is very exciting. So yeah, watch this space. JJ (00:58:56): You're going to make another million, more millions. More million. So to wrap up each, we have four questions. So the first question is, do you have any questions for me? This is a very new, new segment I'm doing that was unintentionally given to me, but I thought this was actually kind of brilliant, because I think the purpose of this is for it to feel like a conversation. And I just want everyone to feel relaxed. And I think oftentimes when you're getting interviewed, the interviewee never gets to ask a question. So I'm giving the power back to you all to interviewees. Do you have any questions for me? DS (01:00:04): I do. I mean, I feel like you are in the midst of forging a new chapter in your life, which I told you at the top of the interview that I just have such admiration for the way you move through the world and what you've built through your own identity and sense of self. And even when I was a young fashion person, which I was at some point, I always felt like I was pretty faceless. And I didn't know where. I'd argue that this job has allowed me to really come to the table as myself. And I see you and I think, wow, what you've been able to accomplish in terms of your own identity and representing your values and your interests and also just having such amazing style is wonderful. And I guess, what does it mean to sort of transition through these different identities in this sort of new chapter? JJ (01:01:02): That's a very good question. I only know how to be myself. And I think that clothing has always been a vehicle for me to express who I am, even when I didn't really know fully who I was. DS (01:01:23): Is it a character that you're assuming when you do it, some of your looks have proper characters? JJ (01:01:29): I think the act of putting on clothes as a performance—I mean, RuPaul always has a phrase that...what is the phrase? It's like life is a drag. Or (01:01:41): I will find the quote and put in there. But basically, we're all putting on a performance. And you have to have a costume of what that is. And the real test, though, is will you let the costume be the whole thing, or will you shine through that costume? And so I think something for me is everything I put on my body is genuinely something that I'm invested in and I want. I'm not dressing for another person's idea of what it means to be cool or what is considered trendy. I'm purely dressing for my own happiness. And I think that that's what comes, I hope that's what comes through in how I dress, is that I am trying to find joy in myself first in performing. DS (01:02:27): That seems smart and right. JJ (01:02:31): Because I think so many people go through life concerned about what other people think, which is—that's how we're taught. Also, we're supposed to think about others as we go through life, but it's really a challenge to put yourself first. DS (01:02:48): Yeah, it really is. That's beautiful. JJ (01:02:54): That was a good question. Now I have three questions for you to wrap this up. Okay. So the first question out of the three, who is the most cultured person? DS (01:03:08): It's a really, really hard question to answer because I feel like there's a lot of people to reach for. But the person that I want to talk about is someone who I think is deeply cultured is—he goes by the name of Nav. I don't want to butcher his first name, but I think it's Nav. And he's someone I met this past May, right after the festival in Copenhagen. I was there to speak on a panel with him on the subject of how the consumer can play a role in affecting change as it relates to the climate. And we were in this sort of small panel, and he had built a company called The Washing Machine Project [https://www.thewashingmachineproject.org], and he's a former engineer that was working at Dyson. And he tired of creating really nice vacuums for wealthy people and was like, I think on a trip he came to see that there are so many women and children or girls that are spending time in developing countries washing clothes. (01:04:21): So he's based in the UK. He's now traveled all over Africa, India, and they have some partners here in the US too, but they're sponsored by Whirlpool. And what he's done over, I think, five years is to create a washing machine that can be assembled by hand. It's almost like an Ikea-style thing where you can assemble it on location, and it's like a manual crank that you have to turn, and the clothes get washed inside. It obviously minimizes the amount of water you use as compared to what we use, but it completely allows anybody who's washing clothes to cut their wash time down from sometimes as much as 20 hours a week to 15 minutes a day. JJ (01:05:09): Wow. DS (01:05:10): So you can really kind of—what you do in terms of not only empowering people with their time or giving them their time back, but the physical hardship, the skin irritation, the soreness in your joints from spending all day washing, but also the ability to make money—you could wash other people's clothes—is really kind of remarkable to me. And when I think of culture, I think of somebody that has a degree of fluidity that can step into different spaces, (01:05:46): Has garnered a sense of empathy and relatability to all kinds of people. And I see that Nav travels to the world in a way where he's, almost all the places he visits is imprinted on him, and he's motivated by those exchanges and experiences. So he's the person that comes to mind. JJ (01:06:10): I have to look up his name. This sounds really, DS (01:06:13): He's incredible. JJ (01:06:14): And is there a way to donate to his...? DS (01:06:17): Yeah. Yeah. So you just look up the washing machine project. He's actually coming to town soon. It'd be cool to introduce you—is the time of the conference that happens in September, mid-September. Fantastic. Yeah, he's wonderful. That's amazing. JJ (01:06:34): That's great. Okay. Wow, that's an amazing person. That's cultured. What is your latest cultural obsession? DS (01:06:47): Cultural obsession. (01:06:53): Now that I'm in the beauty space—or sort of—I'm really into K-Beauty, which has always been around, but little known fact, Korea is the second biggest in terms of our traffic to our website. And in terms of the support outside of the organic influencers that we get in the US, all of our biggest supporters come out of Korea. So new jeans, Jenny, Ruby, Jane, they all buy the stuff. We don't know that they've bought it. They just buy it and wear it. And I'm just so fascinated by their evolution as a people in style. They're so outgoing; they really get the aesthetic. They also love the transformation in the beauty process. So I love that. What was the other cultural question? JJ (01:07:49): Oh, then the last one is a three-parter. DS (01:07:51): Oh my gosh. Okay. JJ (01:07:52): So basically it's watch, everyone read, watch, and listen to consider themselves cultured. DS (01:08:01): Okay. Wow. These are going to be a little different from what you might normally think of, I suppose. So the book that I would pull for—I was going to give you an academic text, JJ (01:08:12): You can do that. You can give two, you give as many as you want. DS (01:08:14): Many as you want. Okay, I'm going to do it. So I'm actually reading a textbook of essays by an ecological economist called Herman Daly. JJ (01:08:26): From what time period? DS (01:08:28): So he wrote this in the eighties and nineties, I believe, this particular book. He's written several books, but he talks a lot about a steady-state economy, which is something that I really have become attracted to in a world where we're kind of juggling the tension between consumption and waste. What he posits is that the earth as a biosphere is a finite space with limited resources, and the economy is like a subsystem that grows within the sphere. And it's not really possible—the economy has got to stop growing at some point when it's used up all of the resources and can't continue to scale at the rate that it's been growing. So, so much of what he tries to address in the book is this concept of what it would mean to have a steady-state economy. And by implication, what that means for the inequity between rich and poor. And it all sort dovetails with conversation around who should pay for the pollution that's brought and who actually pays the price in farming. We talk a lot about externalities. (01:09:41): When you think of a drink manufacturer, anybody that's making anything for raw materials in order to sell goods at a rock-bottom price, someone else somewhere in the production line is paying the price. And so this idea of who pays is a big one to me. And who are we trying to benefit in our choices. The other book I was going to say is The Overstory [https://shopstyle.it/l/cfA3S] https://shopstyle.it/l/cfA3Sby Richard Powers, which is a beautiful book that is a series of vignettes by different people in different places over the course of time that talks about nature's constancy amidst the sort of turmoil and peaks and valleys of our everyday life, which it's a really beautiful collection of stories. JJ (01:10:23): Oh, I want to read both of them. DS (01:10:23): Now that you're moving up to Hudson Valley, you should read. And then to watch. I'm trying to think of something recently that I've watched. I watched, okay. (01:10:38): My best friend is a filmmaker, and she does a lot of shorts, and she's working on her first feature film. She co-wrote a film with her then-partner called Civic. And Civic has gone on to become really sort of lauded, especially in the New Yorker where the film critic a year later went back and decided to write a full-fledged review of it. But it's a short that is told from the perspective of a car, and you're sitting in the backseat of the car—whoever it is is sitting in the backseat of the car—and they're witnessing a conversation that's had between the driver and the passenger. And I won't spoil it, but they drive to a number of different places, many of which have significance in this returning person's life. And it's against the backdrop of Los Angeles. And so you see this gradual shift in the scenery and the landscape. Some of the shots are vast where you can see the sky and palm trees and others are parked at a bodega. And I thought it's really hard to do this as a short, but to capture the totality and the range of human life and the sort of degrees of it in one short film was really amazing. So Civic [https://www.newyorker.com/culture/the-front-row/concentrated-but-far-reaching-civic-is-an-ideal-short-film], (01:12:02): So it's Nicole Otero and Dwayne Le

7. sept. 2024 - 1 h 13 min
episode Lunch Break with Marc Bridge at Le Gratin cover

Lunch Break with Marc Bridge at Le Gratin

Long-time readers know that I've been working with At Present since May and that I was named their Stylist in Residence back in June! It has been an absolute joy working with the team, but more than that, it’s been a real pleasure getting to know them personally. I’ve learned so much—not just about the world of jewelry, but also about the art of creating something meaningful as a team. I’m thrilled about a special project we've been working on, which will debut soon. I’ll share more details during fashion week, so be sure to stay tuned! As a bit of a teaser for what's to come, I had the opportunity to sit down with Marc Bridge, the founder of At Present, to talk all things jewelry! As you'll discover in our interview, jewelry truly runs in his veins; it's something he lives and breathes. His passion for the industry is evident in the way he discusses what’s exciting him in the market and what keeps him motivated in this business. We enjoyed a delightful light summer lunch at Le Gratin (I had a refreshing summer salad with a side of fries, and Marc had a fantastic chicken dish with a few vegetables to complement it.), Chef Daniel Boulud’s Bouchon Lyonnais (for those curious, a “Bouchon Lyonnais” is a type of restaurant unique to Lyon) located on the ground floor of The Beekman Hotel. If you follow me on Instagram (and if you don’t, you’re missing out [https://www.instagram.com/jalil_johnson_/?hl=en]!), you might remember me mentioning Le Gratin in my most recent Q&A as one of my favorite spots in the city, especially for its perfect atmosphere for a bit of gossip. The restaurant was buzzing with energy that day, but thankfully, Marc and I found a quiet corner. I’m especially happy to report that the audio quality is great (hooray!); you’ll still hear some clinks and chatter, but overall, it sounds pretty crisp. I hope you all enjoy this episode, and don’t forget to check out my August Edit for At Present [https://go.shopmy.us/p-7236743]! Jalil Johnson (00:00:00): Let's begin. Please introduce yourself to the audience—who you are and all that jazz. Marc Bridge (00:00:05): Yeah, my name is Marc Bridge. I am the founder of At Present. We are a marketplace for extraordinary jewelry, and we like to think of ourselves as matchmakers between the best jewelry artists in the world and people who are looking for unique things to celebrate where they are in their personal journeys. JJ (00:00:29): Fantastic. Well, thank you so much for joining me on Lunch Break. I am really excited to talk to you. We've had dinner before and exchanged emails and whatnot, but it's been quite an honor to be a part of the At Present family. This is the first big gig that I've been working on since leaving Saks. It has been such a pleasure to be a part of this, and it's taught me a lot about jewelry, so I'm excited to talk about jewelry with you, of course, and to teach the audience about it. MB (00:00:57): Few things are better to talk about than that. JJ (00:00:59): The best thing to talk about. So I know that you come from a jewelry family, so how about you just tell us about your family and where you come from in that background? MB (00:01:09): Yeah, geographically, I come from Seattle, which has been home to me and my family for about 115 or 120 years. That's a long time. And particularly out at the end of the world in Seattle, which is, in so many ways, such a new place and has transformed so many times in just the last couple of decades. My great-great-grandfather was a watchmaker who was originally from Poland and came to the United States in Altoona, Pennsylvania, in the late 19th century. He then followed the railroad out to the end of the line and ended up in Seattle in 1912. This was really a frontier town—this was the aftermath of the Klondike Gold Rush and pretty much the end of civilization. He set up a little watch shop on First Avenue in downtown Seattle in 1912. And so began a five-generation family jewelry business that I spent the first 35 years of my life working in and around. MB (00:02:22): And that business was very much the classic family jewelry business. We sold engagement rings and diamond earrings, Rolex watches, and Mikimoto pearls. I spent all of my summers and school holidays—and I think anytime my parents wanted to get me out of the house—on the floor of the jewelry store, which in the 1920s moved four blocks up the hill to the corner of Fourth and Pike, where it was until, I dunno, about a year and a half ago. Some of my earliest memories are of being thrown out onto the sales floor in an oversized suit. Nobody told me it was strange for a 14-year-old to be selling engagement rings and expensive watches, so there I was. JJ (00:03:16): In a big suit. Well, I mean, I have several questions about the clothing. First, who was the suit made by? Were you rocking a huge Armani-esque suit? MB (00:03:26): I think this was probably... JJ (00:03:28): What year was this? MB (00:03:29): So, if I was 14, this was the mid-nineties, probably right after my bar mitzvah. JJ (00:03:38): What was your bar mitzvah theme? MB (00:03:40): My bar mitzvah theme? All I remember from the theme was that we had pop-a-shots, like the game where you play with the little basketball hoop. JJ (00:03:51): Oh, like an arcade? MB (00:03:52): Yeah, exactly. JJ (00:03:53): Fantastic. MB (00:03:55): But I was thinking about that in terms of clothes because, for whatever reason, my mom was morally opposed to children dressing like adults, which is sort of funny when you get to the later part of this story. But for her, the bar mitzvah was the moment when you could get your first suit. I don't know why—maybe because I saw my dad getting dressed in a suit and tie every morning—I wanted a sport coat, and my mom was like, "Nope, that is something you get at your bar mitzvah." So I got my first blue blazer for the Friday night ceremony and my first green suit—it was sort of an olive color—and I even remember the woven tie that I wore for the Saturday morning service. JJ (00:04:42): That's quite a bold fashion choice—a green suit. MB (00:04:46): I don't remember. I assume that was not something that I picked at that point. JJ (00:04:51): Did your mom say that you needed to be in a green suit? MB (00:04:52): I imagine I was just sort of handed this when we went to the store. "This is what you're wearing." JJ (00:04:59): Oh, fantastic. Okay, a green suit. I love that. So... MB (00:05:02): I don't know. By the time I was working in the store, did I still have the green suit? Maybe. But where... JJ (00:05:07): Where is that green suit now? That's the... MB (00:05:09): Somewhere deep in the archives. It's going to be in the Marc Bridge Memorial Museum someday. My mother has tried for years to get rid of all of the things, and I don't know where she is in that process of purging, but I think the green suit has probably gone on to greener pastures by now. JJ (00:05:27): I hope it's still alive and well. MB (00:05:28): I hope somebody's enjoying it. I hope there are generations of bar mitzvah boys who have worn that same drag ball of a suit. JJ (00:05:35): It's a rite of passage. It was a suit of passage. MB (00:05:37): Exactly. So I'm trying to remember... I remember that the first thing I got really excited to buy, I found a Hugo Boss Blazer on sale. There was a Barneys store in Seattle at the time. JJ (00:05:54): RIP. MB (00:05:55): Yeah, of blessed memory. And to go in there and find something that was probably 70% off or something at the time was still way beyond what any 14-, 15-, or 16-year-old should be wearing. But I thought that was pretty cool. JJ (00:06:13): That's a big moment. Yeah. So at 14, you're in your big suit, your big green suit. Where do you go from there? MB (00:06:21): Where do I go from there in terms of the jewelry business? JJ (00:06:23): Yes, in the business. MB (00:06:25): So I spent from 14 through, I mean, really through 25, 26, sort of working in between school, graduated from high school in Seattle, went off to college in St. Louis, went to graduate school in London, spent a couple of years in London, which was fabulous. I came home and went to law school, all to do the same thing I would have done had I dropped out of high school, which was to go into the family jewelry business. And so I joined in a full-time capacity after I passed the bar in 2009 and then spent a decade as the minister without portfolio in a family jewelry business. JJ (00:07:10): Oh, I like that—a minister without portfolio. And so what made you feel like that? MB (00:07:14): Because you do all of the things that either no one knows how to do or is willing to do. And so they go, "All right, we have this problem. Who do we have to solve it? Give it to Marc." "Okay, here's this other thing. Here's this thing that we should be doing." So I was corporate secretary and corporate counsel and head of visual merchandising and head of marketing and head of e-commerce and store construction and real estate and legal and all of these bizarre things, some of which I had qualifications for, others of which I had absolutely no business doing. They throw you in, and you go, "Alright, now you're going to figure it out." So that's those sort of sink-or-swim moments, and I had a lot of fun with it. JJ (00:08:03): Then there was a moment, though, when you kind of took a step back, correct? From the business, and you went out on your own, right? Or not went out and started At Present, but you took a step back to think about what you wanted to do. MB (00:08:15): Yeah. Well, the thought had always been that my sister and I would run that business when our father retired. And he came to us one day and said, "Alright, it's time." The family actually sold the business during that period to Warren Buffett, to Berkshire Hathaway. And so it was a family business in some ways, and in other ways, it was not. And Dad said, "Alright, put your business plan together. We're going to go to Omaha to see Uncle Warren and effectuate this transition plan that we've been talking about for three and a half decades." And I had been thinking about this for a long time and spending a lot of time looking at the world and the market and where I thought the opportunities were. MB (00:09:04): Then I was evaluating, "Alright, do you take this existing model, this existing enterprise, and try to pursue some of these new opportunities? Or is it an opportunity to start something new?" Ultimately, I decided, both for the opportunity and for the challenge that I wanted for myself, that I think it's more fun to start something new. It's hard to take a big, existing ship with a lot of momentum and find new things and move it in a different direction. I kept seeing all of these things that I loved in the world—all of these amazing artists, all of these beautiful pieces—and it never worked with those in our hundred mall-based jewelry stores, where you have to cater to a very broad audience. In the legacy business, we sold all the foundational elements that people should have. We sold diamond stud earrings and Rolex submariners—the building blocks of a collection. I think about it a little bit like the... JJ (00:10:16): Oh, thank you. MB (00:10:16): It actually looks very pretty. JJ (00:10:18): Oh, delicious. Oh, yes, thank you. Yeah. MB (00:10:26): Beautiful. Thank you so much. MB (00:10:30): Think about it like buying a pair of 501s and a great t-shirt. You should absolutely have those things. Those are foundational, and they will be evergreen. And then you want something fun to layer on top of it—something that is expressive of your style. It was very hard to find those things, and that was really the birth of At Present. It was this idea of, "Could we find the most exciting, the most interesting emerging and artistic jewelry designers, and could we be that matchmaker between them and the people who are like, 'Okay, show me something different. Show me something cool. Show me something that marks this moment in my life.'" JJ (00:11:17): Which is exciting. I think, and we've talked about this before too, and I've talked about this with other people and other jewelry designers. Right now, this present moment, it feels like jewelry is super exciting. Not to say that it has not always been, but at this particular moment, jewelry feels so novel, so important. I think especially in this very chaotic time, it feels even more important in a way. And I think At Present, even the name itself, is such a beautiful sentiment. You said that you want to be a matchmaker for people to great jewelry, but you also want to celebrate these people in their present. So, can you talk to me about why you think, at this very moment, jewelry is so important? I mean, I think that’s... MB (00:12:00): Preaching to the choir here, yeah. JJ (00:12:02): But tell me about that. And then also, I mean, I think it's important also to talk through the name At Present. It's such an impactful story, and I think it's really important. MB (00:12:11): Yeah, no, I think that's exactly right. It's really sort of playing off of that idea of what was missing in the world. The traditional business was built on these prescribed occasions, and it was generally a major advertising campaign telling a man, "You need to buy this shiny object for your female partner for these reasons. If you want to celebrate Valentine's Day, if you want to get married, if you want to celebrate a round-number birthday or anniversary, we have this particular thing for you." And there's something uniquely powerful about those gifts of love, and that is the foundation of the jewelry business. But it fundamentally misses just how powerful these objects are because it says you have to wait for impossibly perfect life moments, and you have to wait to be worthy of somebody else giving them to you. MB (00:13:18): And I think both of those things are both anachronistic and kind of problematic, and they miss an opportunity for self-expression. And I think that's where you start talking about things that are really fun. So much of what you saw in the world was based on trying to sell somebody something to give. So do I really know what she's going to like? Well, I can't go wrong with this. If you're buying something for yourself, you get to lean really hard into the things that you love. And so the notion of At Present is about celebrating right now. It's a little bit of taking the idea of "A diamond is forever," which is sort of this old-world concept, and flipping it on its head. These things are enduring, but that's actually not the point. The point is not that this needs to be worthy of all time; it needs to be worthy of today. And today's the only place that we get to live. So, celebrate that. JJ (00:14:22): Like I said, I think jewelry is so exciting and really important right now. But I think let's get even more micro about it, maybe. What are the specific things that you're seeing in the jewelry market? I know you were in Vegas; it looked amazing. What is really exciting you right now? What should everyone be keeping their eyes on and shopping for? That's the most important thing. What should people buy? MB (00:14:46): Exactly. Let's get down to brass tacks here. We are excited about color. Maybe it's summer, maybe it's all the creativity that we're seeing, but I just like things that make me happy. So, bright colors. We're here in New York because we're doing a launch tonight with Fry Powers, one of our newest partners, who just has this bright, happy, and very contemporary and expressive view of the world. I think that's something we've seen a lot of. We've seen a lot of people playing with cool materials; we've seen a lot of things in blown glass that have done really well for us. You did a shoot with this very cool fish ring from Lizzie Fortunato [https://go.shopmy.us/p-7341010] that was like the runaway hit of the summer. Blown glass pieces from Keane [https://go.shopmy.us/p-7341018], these really cool fruits from Notte, have done great for us in the last six months. It's just like these little bits of "Ah, okay." JJ (00:15:54): Yeah, it just feels like, it seems from what you're saying, that the jewelry that's really popular right now has a sense of character. It's a little novel, which is really important. I think it's really interesting. And then let's even go a step further in terms of the jewelry. If I were trying to build out my collection right now, can you tell me what are the five pieces that you think everyone should have? Like, base level, I want to get into jewelry. I don't know where to start. These are the five things. Maybe let's do three. MB (00:16:27): Five seems daunting. We'll start with three and see where we end up. I think that having a statement necklace is really foundational. Here is something that you can play with in a lot of different ways. We've seen layering continue to be a very strong trend, but it is, "Alright, here is my base piece, and here are the things that I'm dressing up or down around it." So having something strong as a base there. We see that fun, multiple ear piercings, people love doing different things, creating really cool stacks continues to be really, really strong. So, are there some of those elements that you're going to want to wear and never take off? I think people like both the really durable pieces but also like, "Alright, here's something that's fun. Here's something that's colorful." Rainbows are doing really well in earrings. So, I think an awesome necklace, an ear stack, and then, I dunno, I've been very excited about bracelets recently. JJ (00:17:43): Oh yeah, I love a bracelet. I just got an amazing bracelet that I'm very excited about. MB (00:17:44): From whom? Do you have it on right now? JJ (00:17:51): Yeah, so this is a piece from James Banks [https://go.shopmy.us/p-7340283]. JJ (00:17:53): For the audience, I'm taking a picture. It's really nice. It's really nice and sturdy. MB (00:17:56): So, James Banks is a partnership between our friends Adam Shulman and Heidi Fink Nasher. Adam is here in New York, and Heidi... JJ (00:18:06): It's very nice. Wave for the... MB (00:18:09): ...is in Northern California. Everything that they do has some degree of movement or some degree of function. They do locks. This is a version they call "the vault," and it's actually made in part by a locksmith. You can see that there's actually a key element to it. JJ (00:18:32): Wow. Okay, beautiful. MB (00:18:35): So, as you put it on, you spin that, and that's the lock. JJ (00:18:39): Which leads me to the next question: Should you take off your jewelry, or can you wear it in the shower? Can you sleep in it? Can you go in the ocean? What are your jewelry recommendations for taking care of your jewelry? MB (00:18:54): I think it depends on what it is. Something that is gold and diamonds is very durable, so that's something you can wear all the time. If it's comfortable to sleep in it, by all means. You might want to clean it every once in a while if you're showering in it, but there's no reason you couldn't. There are some materials that you should be more cautious about. If you start talking about softer stones, if you're talking about opals, if you're talking about emeralds, if you're talking about things that are not as durable, those are things that you probably shouldn't be in the hot tub with or jumping in the ocean with. JJ (00:19:37): Also, this is more of a selfish question, so I wear... MB (00:19:44): It's your lunch; you can ask whatever you like. JJ (00:19:45): I can do it. If this is my thing, I can do whatever I want. MB (00:19:47): The benefit of having your own show. JJ (00:19:49): Yes. So, my birthstone is a pearl. I feel like everyone... for the audience, my birthday's in June, so my birthstone is a pearl, and I always wear a pearl on this pendant. Should I be taking off this necklace every day because of the pearl? MB (00:20:09): A pearl is definitely a piece that you want to be more careful with. JJ (00:20:13): Yikes! MB (00:20:14): So it depends on what you're doing. If you're rock climbing, you probably don't want it smacking against the wall. Is there any problem sleeping with it? No, the pearl came from the ocean originally, so I wouldn't be as concerned about that going in the water. But... JJ (00:20:34): Oh, so showering with it is fine? MB (00:20:38): If you're talking about water, it's fine. The things that you want to worry about are the other things—the soaps and the shampoos and all of those things could be problematic for your pearl. I think they often say with pearls, it's the first thing that comes off and the last thing that goes on. Hairspray is not something that you want to get on your pearl. MB (00:21:00): So I would be a little bit more careful with your pearl. It's probably not the answer that you're looking for. JJ (00:21:05): No. Oh, that's good for me. MB (00:21:08): But you decide if this is the patina that you want. "I want this to be..." I think that's also part of the notion of our ethos—these are things that are meant to be lived in. One of the things that's been problematic about the way in which jewelry has been made so precious is that it's like, "Oh no, no, that's just something for fancy occasions." And people keep it in the safe, keep it in the drawer, and then have nowhere to wear it. It breaks my heart because these are pieces that are meant to be lived in. I'm a firm believer that a piece of jewelry is the least valuable at the moment when you buy it. It is through the life that it has living with you that it really achieves its value. JJ (00:21:55): That's an amazing sentiment. I agree. I totally agree with you. The sentiment that jewelry should be bought to be lived in, but I'd never thought of it as it doesn't gain its value until you start living in it, which I think is a beautiful thing to think about. It gives more life to the piece, which is really special. I think it makes it even more personal. I think that's the other beautiful thing about jewelry. I mean, I love clothes; I adore clothes. But there does feel like there's something a bit more personal about jewelry and more timeless because you're not going to toss it away with the changing winds of trends and whatnot. I'm guessing you feel the same way. MB (00:22:44): Yes. People often ask me, "Should I invest in jewelry? Is jewelry a good investment?" And I have to ask them, "What do you mean by investment?" If you mean, "Is this something that is going to provide you with an enormous amount of joy and satisfaction and gratitude and appreciation?" I can't think of anything that is a higher-yielding investment. If it's a question of, "Can I resell this to somebody at some point?" I have no idea. I have no idea what the price of gold is going to do. I have no idea what the price of diamonds is going to do. But I have 100% confidence that something you wear as part of your life will be more valuable to you and to the people in your life at some point down the line, without question. JJ (00:23:37): I have another somewhat selfish question, but I think this is also really interesting. Could you explain how value is attached to a diamond or the price of gold? How do they determine that pricing? Or is this a secret? MB (00:23:56): No, I mean, I think it's supply and demand, right? This is the foundation of any price. I went to graduate school in economics, so these sorts of questions about "What is something worth?" are really, really interesting to me. It's this balance between how many of these things exist in the world, how hard it is to get more of them, and how many people want it and at what rate they value it. There are lots of things that are very rare that have absolutely no value because nobody cares. JJ (00:24:35): Like what? MB (00:24:36): Oh, I dunno. I'm sure you could find all sorts of, "Here is a particular mineral; here's a particular gemstone that is found in one place in the world, and there are only six of them, but it's not very attractive. Nobody's ever done anything with it." So, like, okay, take it or leave it. Where the magic happens is where there is something that is limited and people go, "Oh, this is actually very cool; I want this." So it is subject to the vagaries of the market. Diamonds are an interesting example. In the natural diamond world, these are things that developed in the earth over hundreds of millions or billions of years and are found in places where they are very difficult to extract. So there's a limited supply of diamonds that you can find at a prevailing market price. Then you have everything that's happening in the lab-grown diamond market, which has completely changed the value equation because you can effectively print these in a factory. MB (00:25:50): I'm kind of fascinated at the moment by the question of, "Are these the same thing?" You would think it's an objective question, but it's actually not. "Is it the same thing?" Well, objectively, it is the same material—this is carbon, it's crystallized carbon, and it has a very similar or identical atomic structure. It was made over a very short period of time in a warehouse using a lot of electricity. Here's something that is chemically identical that was made in the earth, spit out by a volcano, and extracted with great care and attention. Are those the same thing? I don't know. JJ (00:26:42): There are so many... It's really interesting you say that because I think lab-grown is such a growing industry. There are so many brands popping up that are solely focusing on lab-grown. MB (00:26:54): You can do lots of really cool things when all of a sudden it's not thousands of dollars for a carat of diamonds. It's actually an opening for great creative expression. JJ (00:27:06): Are the lab-grown diamonds affecting the price of natural diamonds? MB (00:27:11): The answer seems to be that nobody really knows. There has been an enormous amount of market share taken by lab-grown diamonds. But the primary trend in the market has been that the price... We're talking about, "Alright, what is the value of something?" and that being the product of supply and demand. Demand has gone up for lab-grown diamonds, but the supply has gone up enormously more. So if you look at the price of lab-grown diamonds over the course of the last 10 years, it's dropped by a factor of 90 or 95%. MB (00:27:50): So therein lies that investment question. "Is that a good investment?" If you bought a diamond to propose to somebody that you love, the value of that diamond is very strong. If you were trying to go out and sell that diamond today, well, you're probably not going to get what you paid for it if it's a lab-grown diamond. So, a good investment or a bad investment? I have bought a lot of jewelry in my life for myself, for my wife, and for lots of people in my life. I've never sold anything. I don't have any... JJ (00:28:19): You've kept it all. How do you store it all? Do you have loads of jewelry? How do you store all that jewelry? MB (00:28:25): The vault that Scrooge McDuck was swimming around in. JJ (00:28:29): You just have that in your basement. MB (00:28:30): That's very similar. That's where my children and my dog play. I dunno. JJ (00:28:35): Wow. Also, I guess... MB (00:28:37): The point being that I have no idea what the market value is for that. If I think about my personal balance sheet, that is not a monetary asset. If I think about my emotional balance sheet, it's a very strong asset. These are pieces of great value. Just thinking about all the things I'm wearing... My grandfather recently gave me some cufflinks. MB (00:29:03): And these are... So, my grandfather, in the seventies and eighties, was a very strong believer that men should wear diamonds. JJ (00:29:13): That's so, I feel, counterculture, especially in the seventies. MB (00:29:17): Totally. And he was particularly of the belief that if you are going to sell diamonds, you should wear diamonds. He's still happily alive, but he doesn't get dressed up anymore. He doesn't put on a suit and tie, he doesn't wear a tuxedo anymore. JJ (00:29:34): Even though you're wearing a suit right now. MB (00:29:35): I do, but he doesn't. And I wear suits a lot less often than I used to. But he gave me this beautiful set of cufflinks and matching tuxedo studs, and he goes, "Would you wear these?" I said, "Absolutely, I would wear these." I have no idea what he paid for it; I have no idea what the price of gold or the price of diamonds was at that point, but I know that this is something that he wore while he was building his jewelry business. So as I build a jewelry business, that's very powerful for me. JJ (00:30:08): And then, also, what watch are you wearing? I feel like you talked about watches because your family started in watches. I feel like we have to also mention what watch you're wearing. MB (00:30:16): So I love watches, and I actually wrote a dissertation on the history of Swiss watchmaking. JJ (00:30:22): Is it available for everyone to read? MB (00:30:24): I can send it to you if you would like to share it. JJ (00:30:26): I would love to. MB (00:30:27): It's actually a really interesting story, which is not what you asked, but I'll give you the synopsis of it. Watches, particularly high-end Swiss mechanical watches, are objectively inferior to every other means of timekeeping. JJ (00:30:46): How so? MB (00:30:46): So we're talking about objective versus subjective value. We have iPhones sitting on the table here that tell far better time than my watch. JJ (00:31:00): Oh, really? MB (00:31:01): Yes, by orders of magnitude. Timekeeping is fascinating. You're getting an unsolicited thesis today on the history of timekeeping, but that is what you're going to get. In order to keep time, all you need is something to happen at a constant rate. If you think about it, sundials kept time because the sun rises and sets at a constant rate, so we can organize our day around that. Traditional watchmaking was about using all these moving parts and gears and springs to tell time. The fun thing about this is a mechanical watch I'm holding up—this is my Patek Nautilus [https://www.patek.com/en/collection/nautilus], which was my 30th birthday present to myself. MB (00:31:55): You can see the... Oh wow, that's really fun. The gold thing that's spinning around there is called the rotor. This is an automatic mechanical watch, meaning that it is winding a spring, and the spring gets let out. You can see there's a little wheel there that's oscillating, and that lets out that spring at a constant rate. That's what turns it into the keeping of time. For centuries, this was the process of timekeeping. You had lots of people working in lots of little workshops, most famously in Switzerland, right? In France, in England, and in all the more industrialized countries, and in the United States, trying to find better ways of measuring time that way. Then, starting in the 1950s and 1960s, they used quartz crystals oscillating and little microcomputers to be able to count how often the quartz crystal was oscillating. It was orders of magnitude more accurate than these mechanical pieces. MB (00:33:05): So my research was about how this should have destroyed traditional watchmaking. These things were bought because they were accurate. Someone created a more accurate way of doing this, rendering this completely obsolete, except they stuck around. What they represent is not the accuracy of timekeeping; it's a piece of jewelry. Someone once described it as a piece of jewelry that has a functional alibi. "I need to wear this because it tells me the time." There's a clock on the wall, two clocks on our phones, and a clock on my computer when I'm sitting at my desk, but "Yeah, this is what I really need in order to tell time." MB (00:33:51): What it turned out is there's something more interesting at play here, which is that these are pieces of art, these are pieces of craftsmanship, these are things that tell a story about who I am, about who I want to be, about what community I want to be a member of, about my appreciation for a long craft history. My obsession with mechanical watches very much comes out of that. JJ (00:34:19): Well, I'm so excited to definitely read this dissertation. MB (00:34:21): I will send it to you. Let me know what you think. JJ (00:34:24): So when it comes to clothing, besides jewelry, what are you looking towards? What are you shopping for? You have a very nice collection of pieces I'm putting together. MB (00:34:37): I like things that... It's similar to jewelry. I like things that have a story. I don't know the makers in clothing the same way that I know the makers of jewelry. When I buy jewelry, I buy it from people I know and whose worldview I'm sympathetic with. Whether it's Adam Shulman with my bracelet or these rings, which are both made by my friend Lauren Detelli, who's this extraordinary goldsmith in Hermosa Beach, California. I just like their outlook on the world. I think the same thing is true when I'm thinking about clothing, accessories, or shoes, which is another kind of black hole of... JJ (00:35:22): Are you a big shoe person? MB (00:35:23): I love shoes. JJ (00:35:24): Oh, what shoes are you wearing right now? MB (00:35:26): I am wearing some Alden Cordovan. JJ (00:35:29): Oh, fantastic. And they're a nice black, right? MB (00:35:33): Yeah, they're kind of sort of... there's a maroon or something. There's some color that they get very excited about. JJ (00:35:43): I see you're also not wearing socks. Have you seen the big debate about socks versus no socks [https://www.nytimes.com/2024/06/20/style/gen-z-crew-socks-ankle-millennials.html]? MB (00:35:50): Yeah. And I don't know, generationally you and I might be on different ends of the spectrum on this. I saw this was the great, in this world full of division. This is the key division in culture now is... JJ (00:36:01): So I'm guessing you're a no-socks person. MB (00:36:03): I'm a no-socks person during the summer, and maybe it's because I live in Seattle, where most of the time you have to be bundled up. I definitely had a sock era, like... JJ (00:36:17): The crazy funky socks. MB (00:36:18): Yeah, I was in London during the Paul Smith stripe sock era. I have a drawer full of Paul Smith stripe socks, which still, again, are things that make you happy and have color. But if there's an opportunity for me to wear loafers when it's 90 degrees outside without socks, I take great delight in that. JJ (00:36:41): This may surprise you, but I actually prefer no socks. MB (00:36:46): But you're a sandal person, right? JJ (00:36:47): I love a sandal, but even with a loafer or... It also depends on the outfit. Somack, who I interviewed too, who is the creative director of Alex Mill, we talked about socks as well because he used to be the assistant to the sock designer back at J. Crew when he first started. Which I didn't even know that was a... MB (00:37:09): Great title. I know. JJ (00:37:10): I'm like, these titles are kind of fantastic, but we were talking about socks, like... MB (00:37:16): George Costanza, right? JJ (00:37:17): Yeah, it's like who came up with it? The sock really can make or break an outfit because if you're wearing a pattern sock, which I'm not a big fan of, it has to be a solid color, but it can really elevate or really take down the outfit. It's a really high-stakes choice to make or break an outfit. So if possible, I can get away with no socks. I love no socks and not those little socks that are no-show. I don't like those. MB (00:37:52): They don't work very well. The concept is intriguing, but I have never found those. And I'm like, yes, I feel better wearing these. JJ (00:37:58): They always fall off your foot. You should just not wear socks. Okay. MB (00:38:03): And I read somewhere recently, it was funny, I was thinking about this and I said, "What is the story?" Everybody's like, "It's going to be bad for your shoe." And somewhere I read—and I have no idea if this is true—that if you have something that's made out of a nice leather, the leather will breathe. The real problem is if you are sweating in something that is not real quality. Whatever, I have no idea if that's true, but I like that as a story. And that's my justification for continuing to buy nice shoes. JJ (00:38:30): I love that. I am going to carry on that. MB (00:38:34): Stories are better when you don't know whether they have any veracity to them. JJ (00:38:38): So outside of the fashion of jewelry, what else? What is your perfect day outside of the responsibilities of running a business and shopping? Because it seems like... MB (00:38:50): Shopping is the most important. That is the most important responsibility. JJ (00:38:52): Shopping... MB (00:38:54): Somewhere in there, I do attempt to spend time and take care of my children. JJ (00:39:00): How many kids do you have? MB (00:39:02): I have two kids. I have an 8-year-old son and a 4-year-old daughter. They're utterly delightful and very amusing. But my perfect day... I have a perhaps unnatural love for really long plane flights. JJ (00:39:23): Really? MB (00:39:23): Yes. JJ (00:39:24): Have you gone to Australia? MB (00:39:26): I have never been to Australia. I have been to Africa, the Middle East, and Asia, but I have never been to Australia. JJ (00:39:34): So what's the longest flight? Is it to China, I'm guessing? MB (00:39:37): So I went at the beginning of this year to the Middle East and I flew from Seattle to Dubai. It's 14 and a half hours. My perfect day is getting on a very long flight with a very large stack of periodicals. I love magazines, I love newspapers, and if I could sit on a plane for 14, 18 hours and just be totally isolated from the world—the incursion of wifi onto airplanes has sort of ruined my perfect day because it used to be that you weren't even taunted or tempted to check in and look at email and see if there's something on Slack. There was nothing that I could do other than sit here and read my giant stack of magazines. But that's my happy place. JJ (00:40:31): A plane. What is your preferred plane? Because I'm slowly getting into... I went to an astrologer, random fact, I went to an astrologer for the first time this year, which was very scary because of how I grew up—very religious and it was a big taboo. So the astrologer told me that in my chart she saw moving and she saw travel, which so far it's happening. There is travel happening. So what's your preferred flight? But also, do you have any travel secrets? What's the Marc 101 of flying? MB (00:41:10): This is, I dunno, maybe embarrassing to admit, but one of my great passions is travel planning and particularly travel planning using airline and credit card miles. I spend a disproportionate amount of time trying to find great deals to go somewhere. I would take a trip just because I found a great ticket using airline miles to go somewhere. So I plan lots of trips, the vast majority of which I never take. JJ (00:41:45): What do you mean? MB (00:41:46): Different people have different outlets for stress and relaxation. Planning travel, for whatever reason, is one of my things I love. JJ (00:41:55): So do you book everything, or do you just plan? MB (00:41:59): Sometimes I book them, and then they just never go. Yeah, they'll cancel it. JJ (00:42:02): Okay, alright. Do you ever just give it away to someone? Like, "Hey, I just planned this. I don't feel like going. Do you want to go?" MB (00:42:09): I should at some point. It's harder to rebook because you asked for all the details on this. To change the name on it is actually not easy. JJ (00:42:16): Oh, really? MB (00:42:17): What you're saying is maybe I should just start booking trips in your name. JJ (00:42:20): That would fulfill the prophecy of the astrologer. MB (00:42:23): We need to make sure that the astrologer gets paid off here. JJ (00:42:25): Yes, yes, yes. MB (00:42:27): No, I mean, I have been really fortunate to travel to a lot of different places, and I like walking around. So, what is the rest of the perfect day? Take the long flight. I get somewhere, preferably a big city, and I have no plans other than walking out the front door and seeing what I find along the way. That's one of the reasons I love New York. You never know what you're going to find when you're walking down the street. I love Tokyo. I love that, both as a city and so many cool things about Japanese culture. My guess is that you would probably find great satisfaction in that. JJ (00:43:09): After I had my astrology reading, I also got a tarot reading. MB (00:43:13): And how similar were they? JJ (00:43:15): They were pretty similar. My astrology one, I was more like, "This is what I want to talk about." It was three big things. We only had an hour. The tarot reading was much longer, and I was just like, "Tell me what you see in the cards." And she told me not to go to Tokyo because I'll never come back. And I was like, I don't know. Is that... MB (00:43:34): And is that a good thing or a bad thing? If you find goodness, then... JJ (00:43:40): I was like, that kind of sounds fantastic. Great shopping. I've heard fantastic things about the shopping, the subcultures. My boyfriend's mother used to travel a lot for work as well, and every time we get on the topic of travel, she's always like, "Jalil, you have to go to Tokyo," because of everything you said. It's like the people take everything to the next level. There's such a, I guess it's curation. Yeah, because there's an appreciation for it. It's like there's such a level of appreciation for it that is beautiful to see. MB (00:44:14): And there's a definition or sort of a commitment to craft that I think is different than in a lot of other places. Have you ever seen the documentary "Jiro Dreams of Sushi [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8R02NE050Jk]"? JJ (00:44:28): No. MB (00:44:29): You haven't seen this? This is one of the greats. If you are a fan of commitment to a craft, this is the story of—I think he's still alive—this guy's name is Jiro Ono, who has a very small sushi counter in the subway station in Ginza. This was the first sushi restaurant in the world to receive three Michelin stars. This is someone who has spent their entire life perfecting a singular craft. This documentary, which came out 10 or 15 years ago, does such a beautiful job of demonstrating what it means to be this committed to doing a particular thing. I don't generally like sweeping cultural generalizations, but that seems to be more prominent in Japanese culture than in a lot of other cultures—a sort of commitment to, "This is the thing that I do, and I'm going to keep incrementally improving on it for every day of my life." You just see a lot of those kinds of things. JJ (00:45:40): It's amazing. Well, this has been such a fascinating conversation. I feel like I learned a lot about jewelry. I hope everyone else learned a lot about jewelry. And, of course, since this is "Consider Yourself Cultured," we have three questions. MB (00:45:54): Before we get to that, you offered that I can ask you questions. JJ (00:45:56): Okay. Yes. MB (00:45:57): You asked a really interesting question about basically why jewelry matters. I feel like I am in Seattle, surrounded by a lot of very practical tech people who are like, "Alright, these are the things that we do that are based on reason." They go, "What you are doing is gratuitous. It is superficial." Clearly, I don't believe that, insofar as I have dedicated my life to it. But why does what we do matter? JJ (00:46:40): That's a great question. JJ (00:46:46): I think, actually, yes, there is a frivolity to all of this—the clothing, everything. There is a frivolousness to it; there isn't a true necessity to it. But that doesn't mean it doesn't matter. I think it matters because, specifically if I think about jewelry, I think jewelry can carry such a history. When I think about jewelry, I think of heirlooms, and the idea of an heirloom is to pass something down, to keep the family alive, to keep a memory alive. I think that is very important; I think it's priceless. You can't put a price on things like that. Also, I think it's expression. You talked about the man in the gray flannel suit, which Thom Browne has so wonderfully subverted. It's fighting against conformity. I think especially in this day and age right now, where I think about what's happening in the world, there is this push for people to conform to an idea, to conform to a look. JJ (00:47:49): I think that jewelry, fashion, and all these elements, at their best, fight against that. Because without individuality—and, of course, you can debate what that means and whatever—but without individuality, where do we progress in a culture? We don't move the needle forward if we're all looking and dressing and thinking the same thing. In order for change to happen, which is the root of fashion and the root of jewelry, there is a change built into it. You have to have individuality. I think that's where fashion and all these things come into play. Yes, there is a frivolous element to it because you need clothes, of course, to survive. But in the reality of this... MB (00:48:37): Probably not the clothes that we're talking about. JJ (00:48:39): This is... MB (00:48:40): It's not primarily shielding us from the elements. JJ (00:48:42): No. In fact, I am exposing myself to the elements in what I'm wearing right now. But it makes me happy. I am also wearing it because it's a small designer, Henry Zankov [https://go.shopmy.us/p-7340330]. I think what he's doing is really important, and he has such a storied history. So to wear his piece, it's to show that to the world and everything like that. And I'm wearing Fry Powers. I'm wearing this beautiful heart ring. MB (00:49:04): Love that ring. Yeah, it's a... JJ (00:49:05): It's a cocktail ring, which I feel is very vintage, which I love—vintage. I think that's also really important to bring to the present. It's full of color, and it just is really happy. It just makes me really happy. And that's, I think, also the important thing about life. I think that clothing, I think jewelry, there's happiness. Why would you buy something if there's a note of sadness? These are things to make us happy, not necessarily to forget or not think about what's happening in the world, but to the point of At Present, to celebrate where we are right now. And that is my answer. MB (00:49:48): That's great. JJ (00:49:50): I think I did a lot of circles, but at the root of it, these things are important because they help us get through the day. MB (00:49:58): It's so interesting. We launched At Present in the summer of 2020, and we were building this during chapter one of COVID. When this started, we were cooking this up just as the whole world fell apart. We asked, "Is this the thing that we should be working on right now?" from a couple of perspectives. One, there are bigger and more important problems in the world. And two, when the world falls apart, what do people stop buying? These sorts of discretionary items. We looked at it and said, "We still think that in the long run, this is the kind of thing that people want to buy, and this is the way in which they're going to shop." So we proceeded—maybe we went a little bit slower. And then a funny thing happened: it was the best time in the world to be in the jewelry business because nobody had anything else to spend money on. MB (00:51:03): They were looking for doses of joy. They weren't traveling, they weren't going out to eat, they weren't getting dressed most of the time. But your entire world consisted of a Zoom rectangle, and having an awesome pair of earrings [https://go.shopmy.us/p-7341041] was just a little bit of solace in the midst of a world that felt totally chaotic and horrible. We saw extraordinary success right out of the gate because we were offering these little packages of joy. In those moments when checking to see whether you got a package was the most exciting activity of the day, we were the bringers of goodness. JJ (00:51:44): Yes, those packages... I mean, I love shopping, but during COVID, I shopped more than I've ever shopped before, and it's amazing. Do you have any other questions before... MB (00:51:58): No, no, you have... JJ (00:51:59): That's the one question. MB (00:52:03): ...but I like your answer a lot. JJ (00:52:05): Oh, thank you. Thank you. So I have three final questions to wrap up that I ask everyone to wrap up every interview. The first one is, who is the most cultured person? MB (00:52:20): The question I should have asked you is what does it mean to be cultured? Because it's such an interesting concept, but do I have to answer your question before I ask my follow-up? JJ (00:52:30): I'll tell you right now because then that might help you. I think that's also the point of the newsletter. I think culture can mean something different to different people. I don't want my definition of culture to inform other people. I hope that what people get out of the newsletter and this podcast is that they leave with something they didn't know or with a different perspective. So I will let you determine what your idea of culture is to inform your answers. MB (00:53:10): I think the most cultured person that I know has to be my grandmother. We grew up next door to my grandparents, and their house was in between our house and the bus stop. I spent pretty much every afternoon growing up with my grandmother. My grandmother is this brilliant, polymathic person who has such a broad frame of reference on everything. She is a philosopher and a theologian and loves collecting art. She introduced me to the world of ideas and manifested a curiosity and enthusiasm about curiosity that I think has been one of the animating elements of my life. So many of my frames of reference just come from her. She is 92 years old, still sharp as a whip, and has a depth and appreciation and love of the world unlike anybody that I have ever met. So I think that's beautiful. That's a definition of culture that I would hope to emulate in my life. JJ (00:54:34): I think it's amazing. The next question is, what is your latest cultural obsession? MB (00:54:42): When we watch TV, we watch a lot of bad TV. JJ (00:54:47): Define bad TV. MB (00:54:48): Well, I guess there's bad TV, and then there's really bad TV. I can't do any of the reality shows. So if that's its own category of special, that's... I can't do that. But we just finished the most recent season of Outer Banks, which I think is really silly and really enjoyed that. The other thing that I just watched that I loved recently—do you know the comedian John Mulaney? JJ (00:55:21): Yes, love him. MB (00:55:22): He did this unbelievably bizarre show on Netflix. There were six episodes of this at the beginning of May called "Everybody's in L.A." JJ (00:55:25): Yes, yes. MB (00:55:27): Have you seen this? JJ (00:55:28): I have not seen it, but I've heard people have raved about it. MB (00:55:30): You're just watching this, and it's just pure absurdism, and it's absolutely brilliant. I haven't seen anything in a long time that gave me so much amusement as watching this variety show of chaos that he masterminded. JJ (00:55:42): That's amazing. And then the last question—and I'll also add that to my list because you're not the first person that's recommended it, so I need to watch it now. The last question is a three-parter: What should everyone read, watch, and listen to in order to consider themselves cultured? MB (00:56:02): The "read" part is challenging for me because for much of my life, I have been a news junkie. To the point about my happy place being with a stack of magazines and newspapers, if I had my happy thing, if I had six daily newspapers that I could read in physical form, I would love that. I think that's probably part of being cultured, which is being involved in the culture. Honestly, I've just found everything going on in the world to be very oppressive. I have a hard time emotionally handling all of the inputs that once were very interesting and very central to my world. I will say that I actually think that is a key part of being an engaged member of the polity. It breaks my heart because that's just something that I can't do with the degree of fervor that I would like to be able to. JJ (00:57:10): So is that going to be your "read"? Is your read still the newspaper, even though...? MB (00:57:15): Yeah. JJ (00:57:15): Okay. So any particular newspaper or just any newspaper? MB (00:57:22): I have a certain love of all things British, so I actually still get the Financial Times in paper form at home. I think I'm the last person in the world that still gets the salmon-colored paper. JJ (00:57:37): It's a beautiful color. MB (00:57:38): It's a great color. To sit with the weekend FT—if I have two hours on a Saturday, if I'm not on an 18-hour flight—if I can make a cup of tea and sit and read the weekend FT from cover to cover, I can feel like I am globally cultured after that. JJ (00:57:55): Oh, fantastic. So reading the Financial Times, I do adore it. It's very elevated. And then what should everyone watch? MB (00:58:08): I would recommend that John Mulaney show as something to watch. Does that make you generally cultured? I don't know. JJ (00:58:14): It seems like it's a part of culture. MB (00:58:16): It's a part of culture. I don't know if there's anything on a higher level that is emblematic of culture at the moment. JJ (00:58:27): I think that's perfect. And then what should everyone listen to? MB (00:58:30): I am a big fan of podcasts. Some of my best friends are the hosts of a show called "Acquired," which is... JJ (00:58:39): Oh, yes. This is an amazing show. Everyone talked about... the Hermes episode [https://www.acquired.fm/episodes/hermes]. Everyone. Yes. MB (00:58:44): Yes. So Ben and David are very dear friends, and I think that they have done just this masterful job of storytelling. They had a great feature on the front of the Wall Street Journal maybe a month or two ago. But if people haven't listened to "Acquired," I would strongly endorse that. I also love Ezra Klein for popular events or things going on in the world. He's a New York Times columnist and has a New York Times podcast. I feel like I'm smarter every time I listen to him. JJ (00:59:20): Yes, I would concur. I adore both of those answers. I listen to both of them. So I'm... MB (00:59:29): We have convinced each other that we are both cultured. At least we got that. JJ (00:59:32): I'm the most cultured. Well, no. Well, thank you so much, Marc, for being a part of this. I'm very excited. I hope everyone shops the array, shops everything. This was really informative, and I really appreciate it. MB (00:59:44): And just to say at the end, what a joy it's been to work with you and how much fun it is to see somebody who is doing something with uniqueness and singularity of vision and voice. I just feel so grateful that we had the opportunity to find you and work with you. I'm just so delighted to see all the fun things that you create and put out into the world because you're amazing. JJ (01:00:09): Oh, Marc. Well, thank you. The feeling's mutual. The feeling's mutual. Well, that is all. Thank you so much. MB (01:00:14): Thank you for lunch. I may earn some commission if you make a purchase through one of the links above. Follow me on Instagram here [https://www.instagram.com/jalil_johnson_/?hl=en]! This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit consideryourselfcultured.substack.com/subscribe [https://consideryourselfcultured.substack.com/subscribe?utm_medium=podcast&utm_campaign=CTA_2]

29. aug. 2024 - 1 h 1 min
episode Lunch Break with Danielle DuBoise at La Mercerie cover

Lunch Break with Danielle DuBoise at La Mercerie

This is a free preview of a paid episode. To hear more, visit consideryourselfcultured.substack.com [https://consideryourselfcultured.substack.com?utm_medium=podcast&utm_campaign=CTA_7] Hello! In today’s episode of Lunch Break, my podcast where I chat with fascinating and stylish individuals over lunch, we've got another exciting conversation for you. As a paying subscriber, you’ll have access to the full interview along with today’s complete newsletter. To ensure you never miss a moment of Lunch Break, consider upgrading to a paid subscription. This not only unlocks full-length episodes but also gives you access to exclusive letters and the entire newsletter archive. I had the pleasure of sitting down with Danielle DuBoise, co-founder of Sakara Life, which she started with her friend Whitney Tingle [https://www.instagram.com/whitneytingle/] back in 2011. Before our interview, I had the privilege of trying out their meal delivery service. It’s a treat to have someone else do the cooking, but what really stood out to me was how the meals made me feel—this might sound odd—but I didn’t feel bad. We all know food is essential, but for many of us, eating can sometimes feel more like a burden. Danielle and Whitney’s goal with Sakara Life is to remove the guilt associated with eating. Instead of focusing on cutting portion sizes, they emphasize the quality of ingredients, ensuring every meal is packed with healthy, whole foods. Beyond just meals, they offer a variety of supplements, and they've recently introduced a Fiber Powder (which I absolutely love!) to address what Danielle calls a “fiber epidemic.” It was a pleasure to sit down with Danielle over a meal to discuss her journey, the launch of the fiber supplement, and more! You can find Danielle DuBoise [https://www.instagram.com/danielleduboise/?hl=en] here and you can check out Sakara Life [https://www.sakara.com/] here.

15. aug. 2024 - 34 min
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En fantastisk app med et enormt stort udvalg af spændende podcasts. Podimo formår virkelig at lave godt indhold, der takler de lidt mere svære emner. At der så også er lydbøger oveni til en billig pris, gør at det er blevet min favorit app.
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