The Struggle Climbing Show

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow [https://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/patreonpodcast]   Jackie Hueftle and Kevin Cuckovich from Kilter join the pod to chat through our exciting partnership, including: * The history and current landscape of system boards * Where Kilter fits compared to the Moon Board and others * Why adjustability and a dense variety of hold types matters * Kevin's assessment of me as a boulderer * Route climber pitfalls when we turn our sights to bouldering * My current strengths and weaknesses * Grades, and why they differ indoors, outdoors, and on boards * A look ahead at my training journey * The impact of endurance training on strength adaptations * The surprising benefit of setting problems on the board * How to get stronger fingers using larger holds - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: * Rúngne [https://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/rungnepodcast2]: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! * Kilter [http://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/kilterpodcast]: Award winning, adjustable, light-up board. It’s what I’m training on at home, and if you’re psyched to join me then use code STRUGGLE at checkout when you build your board, and you’ll score a free gift pack plus $500-$1000 off depending on your setup (Fullride, Mainline, and Auxiliary kits) let’s gooooo!   And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at https://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dealspodcastthestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals [http://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals] - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right): 00:46 Why Choose the Kilter Board? 01:53 Training and Goals with the Kilter Board 02:59 Meet the Experts: Jackie and Kevin 05:56 Jackie's Journey in Climbing and Route Setting 09:18 Kevin's Climbing and Training Background 12:44 The Evolution and Design of Kilter Boards 16:51 Comparing Kilter with Other Climbing Boards 22:42 Training Strategies and Goals for V8 31:53 Balancing Bouldering and Sport Climbing 33:09 Balancing Strength and Endurance in Climbing 35:07 Learning from Past Climbing Goals 36:04 Maximizing Home Wall Training 38:34 The Importance of Movement and Setting in Climbing 44:17 Consistency and Smart Training 46:30 Avoiding Pitfalls on the Kilter Board 52:05 Mastery and Skill Development in Climbing 55:06 Excitement for the Journey Ahead 59:42 Conclusion and Final Thoughts   - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Follow along on Instagram [http://www.instagram.com/thestruggleclimbingshow] and YouTube [http://youtube.com/@thestruggleclimbingshow]: @thestruggleclimbingshow  - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow [https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow] - Meet me at ICF this year, July 10-13! https://www.climbersfestival.org/ [https://www.climbersfestival.org/] - In this episode, legendary climber and developer Alan Watts explores: * How he inadvertently hazed me on my first Smith climb * The joy and fallout of being the father of sport climbing in the U.S. * The stunning Watts route that caused a chain reaction in climbing * The route J.B. Tribout actually stole from him (it wasn't Just Do It) * The wild story of how Just Do It actually came to be bolted * What are the "rules" of climbing anyway? * Putting Smith Rock on the map, and what makes it so rad * Being labeled a cheater by his heroes and peers * Balancing performance, health, and joy as an older climber * How to have more fun as a climber right now - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: * PhysiVantage: [https://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/physivantagepodcast] the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. * Rúngne [https://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/rungnepodcast2]: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! Rungne.com [https://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/rungnepodcast2]  * Rhino Skin Solutions [https://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/rhinopodcast]: Perform, Cleanse, Repair… repeat! Amazing skin care products crafted specifically for climbers, whether you’re pulling hard indoors or out. Use code STRUGGLE to score a whopping 20% off your purchase!  * Arc’teryx [http://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/arcteryxpodcast]: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com [http://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/arcteryxpodcast]  And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at https://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dealspodcastthestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals [http://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals]   - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) * 00:25 Legendary Guest: Alan Watts * 00:51 Memorable Climbing Experiences * 01:30 Alan Watts' Impact on Climbing * 02:02 The Evolution of Sport Climbing * 02:57 Smith Rock: The Birthplace of Sport Climbing * 04:10 Personal Stories and Reflections * 05:12 Upcoming Events and Announcements * 06:05 Conversation with Alan Watts Begins * 07:03 Recollections of Climbing at Smith Rock * 14:10 Challenges and Struggles in Climbing * 19:53 The Evolution of Climbing Ethics and Techniques * 33:19 The Iconic Route: Just Do It * 38:49 The Turning Point in US Climbing * 39:27 The Controversial Route Theft * 42:19 Debating the Rules of Climbing * 43:49 The Evolution of Climbing Ethics * 47:06 Fueling Climbing Gains * 51:43 The Joy of Climbing and Community * 59:50 Modern Climbing and Gym Culture * 01:02:45 Reflections on Climbing Legacy * 01:08:48 Concluding Thoughts and Future of Climbing - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow [https://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/podcastinstagram] and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow [https://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/podcastyoutube] - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation [https://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/honnoldfoundationpodcast], whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, [https://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/plugtonepodcast] a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow [https://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/patreonpodcast] - In this episode, we connect with Weekend Warrior Annette Guo to explore: * How she went from struggling on 5.11 to sending twelve 5.12s in a year * Simple strength training that resulted in less injuries and her biggest sending spree ever * How she sent her first V5, V6, and V7 in a matter of a couple months * The impact of picking one thing to focus on * The power of doing regular self-assessments and what it has taught her * How to build confidence indoors that translates to outdoor projects * Making quick gains by climbing with the right crew * Her impressive system for planning and logging her training and climbing - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: * PhysiVantage: [https://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/physivantagepodcast] the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. * Rúngne [https://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/rungnepodcast2]: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! Rungne.com [https://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/rungnepodcast2]   And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at https://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dealspodcastthestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals [http://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals]   - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Check out Annette's fancy spreadsheets and make a copy for your own use if you're psyched (tabs we discussed were the Assessment and 2024 Sport Climbing Stats... but others might be useful as well): thestruggleclimbingshow.com/annette [http://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/annette] - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow [http://www.instagram.com/thestruggleclimbingshow]  Check out Annette's sends and struggles on Insta: @4amazingbetas [https://www.instagram.com/4amazingbetas/] Meet me at ICF this year, July 10-13! https://www.climbersfestival.org/ [https://www.climbersfestival.org/] - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation [https://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/honnoldfoundationpodcast], whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, [https://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/plugtonepodcast] a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow [https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow]   In this special Q&A episode, Dr. Tyler Nelson from Camp 4 Human Performance answers YOUR questions, which yielded amazing insights including: * Which grip type is the best to train? * How to rotate finger training methodologies for optimal results  * Which finger training to do pre season vs in season  * What’s the ideal percentage of max for safe and effective finger training?  * Is it better to be strong for the grade or week for the grade? * The mistake of correlating finger strength-to-grade * The difference between amateurs and pros on their strength-to-grade performance * Surprising study showing elite climbers use less force on climbs than amateurs   * Set and rep scheme to avoid fatigue when strength training  * Training while injured  * How to effectively train power and endurance on the same day  * How to beat the spinning pull-up bar carnival game  * Do arm wrestling training tactics translate to climbing? * How Tyler programs his training and climbing days  * What to do if you hit a finger strength plateau - Gain instant access to the FULL Pro Clinic by supporting the show as a Patron (you can even check it out for FREE with a 7-day trial): https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow [http://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/patreonpodcast] - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Follow along on Instagram [http://www.instagram.com/thestruggleclimbingshow] and YouTube [http://youtube.com/@thestruggleclimbingshow]: @thestruggleclimbingshow  - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation [http://www.honnoldfoundation.org/] and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, [https://www.plugtoneaudio.com/] a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! Let's get out there and try hard. Thanks for supporting the show, y'all.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow [https://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/patreonpodcast] Climbing Coach Nate Drolet captains the Struggle Bus on my Road to V8 as we cover: * Recap of winter strength and power training * Climbing my first gym V7 * Getting better without getting stronger * Video assessment of recent board struggles * Macro vs micro beta when it comes to board training * How to learn from our better climbing friends * Why Nate could tell I wasn’t REALLY trying * Why sport climbing can sabotage bouldering goals * Nerd Gummies and other tricks to send - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: * PhysiVantage: [https://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/physivantagepodcast] the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. * Rúngne [https://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/rungnepodcast2]: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! If you’re looking to equip your home wall with some beautiful hand-crafted wood holds, check out http://ManaHolds.com [http://manaholds.com/] And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at https://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dealspodcastthestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals [http://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals] - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Follow along on Instagram [http://www.instagram.com/thestruggleclimbingshow] and YouTube [http://youtube.com/@thestruggleclimbingshow]: @thestruggleclimbingshow  - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.     And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!