Ines Mendes Interprets Pao de Lo in Ceramics
In this episode of the Portugal Chronicle Podcast, Tracy Dinesen explores the deep cultural roots of one of Portugal’s most beloved traditional desserts—Pão de Ló—and its surprising connection to contemporary art through the work of emerging artist Inês.
What begins as a conversation about food quickly evolves into something much richer: a discussion with Ines Mendes about memory, family, identity, and the preservation of cultural traditions in a modern world.
Inês describes growing up with Pão-de-Ló always present at family gatherings, especially around holidays like Easter and Christmas. It represents:
* Community
* Family connection
* Shared experience and tradition
Made simply with eggs, sugar, and flour, traditional versions—like those from Margaride—are baked in ceramic forms that help create their signature soft, airy texture. Even within Portugal, styles vary widely, from drier versions in the north to softer, almost custard-like variations in the south.
And, of course, there’s debate about how to eat it—plain, with cheese, with chocolate, or paired with Port wine.
For Inês, Pão-de-Ló is creative fuel.
After returning to her hometown of Felgueiras, she began developing a ceramic collection inspired by:
* Childhood memories
* Family stories (including her grandmother’s work in a Pão-de-Ló factory)
* Everyday objects tied to the tradition
Rather than replicating the cake itself, she abstracted its forms—especially the circular shapes and central voids—into sculptural ceramic pieces.
Her work reflects not just the object, but the environment and rituals surrounding it.
Art, Identity, and Collective Memory
A central theme of the episode is the idea of collective memory—how traditions are carried, reshaped, and sometimes lost.
Inês emphasizes the importance of:
* Preserving traditional practices
* Questioning and understanding history (including its complexities)
* Resisting the pull toward a “globalized” identity that erases local culture
In a world dominated by constant digital input and global trends, she sees value in staying grounded in something specific and personal.
Looking ahead, Inês is developing a new project that combines:
* Research into traditional metal and ceramic practices
* Interviews with artisans and workers
* A final exhibition in Guimarães
* A book documenting her findings and artistic process
It’s an ambitious effort that blends academic research with artistic expression—continuing her mission to preserve and reinterpret cultural heritage.
Where to See the Work
Inês’ current work is on display at Pão-de-Ló de Margaride in Felgueiras, offering visitors a chance to experience both the tradition and its artistic reinterpretation in one place.
Final Thoughts
This episode is a reminder that culture lives in everyday things—food, objects, stories—and that art can be a powerful way to preserve and reimagine those traditions.
