Episode 13 Exploring the Delightful Uses of Flavor Enhancers in Cooking Part 1 – Herbs
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In the last episode we discussed aromatics, which loosely are vegetables that add flavor to a recipe. This week lets talk about one of the most often used, and seldom understood flavor enhancers, that is herbs.
I am John Buono, and I love to cook. These weekly podcasts are designed to provide you with ideas, tips, tricks, and techniques for cooking. Each episode will generally have a recipe that goes with what happens, but the recipe is not the emphasis of these shows. And I encourage you to experiment with what I am giving you today, vary the portions and ingredients. You might be amazed at what you create.
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Herbs are a category of plants that are leafy and spices are plants that are pods, seeds, or bark. Each type enhances and enriches the flavor sensation. We will discuss spices in the next episode, so for this time we will limit our discussion to herbs. Herbs are found in two varieties, fresh and dried. While most people think they can be used interchangeably, they cannot.
As a general rule fresh herbs are added at the end of cooking, and dried at the beginning of cooking.
I know a lot of you are saying, fresh herbs are great, but storing them is an issue, and you are right. Herbs like parsley and cilantro are two of the most common herbs that people are familiar with. I accidentally came across a way to store green leafy herbs for at least a week.
What happened was I had put some basil between a wet paper towel in a zip lock bag to store in the refrigerator. I had used this technique before and it was good for about a day before the leaves became limp and useless. I forgot to put the bag in the refrigerator and it lay unnoticed on the countertop for 2 days. When I opened the bag I was shocked to discover that the basil was as fresh as the day I put it in, right out of the garden. I was amazed. For the next 5 days I used the basil and each day it was fresh. So I know that for 7 days this method is good. And honestly if you have herbs over 7 days old you are not using them enough. But in order for this to work, the herb must be completely dry, no trace of moisture on the leaves. If there is, they will go bad as usual. I know what you are thinking, the paper towels are wet. Yes I know, but believe me when I tell you that the leaves have to be dry.
So let’s start discussing herbs. What I am going to do is tell you about the ones I use most often and how I use them. I can not cover all the herbs by any stretch of the imagination. But this should help you get an idea. We will begin with Parsley.
Parsley
In the United States, most typically you will find two varieties of parsley, curly leaf and Italian flat leaf. Flat leaf parsley is the most common used in cooking and that is because it has a very wonderful subtle taste. It adds to a dish.
While you can dry both types of parsley, I really advise against it. I have found that Italian flat leaf parsley, while sold dried, it has very little flavor and definitely loses flavor when you’re cooking. Curly leaf parsley dries, but it is even more tasteless when it’s dried.
Flat leaf parsley also is used quite commonly as a garnish at the end of preparation. Curly parsley on the other hand, while it is used as a garnish, almost exclusively can be used in cooking; however, it has a very bitter taste if added to a dish that some people like this taste, I find it reminiscent of grass myself.
To use flat leaf parsley what I do is a chop it very finely, making sure not to include any of the thick stems. The very thin stands you’ll find near the leaves are OK to leave on but if you can’t remove them you should chop them very finally and add them at the very end of cooking just before I serve. I also like to use coarsely chopped or whole flat leaf parsley as a garnish on dishes
Also, when using flat leaf parsley, I found that if you stick the stalks into a glass of water making sure that at least 2/3 of the stems and no leaves are in water that it will last for quite a while. I like to have a bunch of flat leaf parsley on hand almost every day because I love to use it, especially in pasta dishes. Curly parsley on the other hand I rarely use and honestly I don’t particularly care for the flavor, but that’s your call to use as a garnish. Many people expect it.
Cilantro
Cilantro is one of those herbs that is often debated. There are two types of people: those that love it, and those who can’t stand it. I was often confused that there were those that hated this wonderful herb. But then I found out why. There are a number of people that taste soap when they eat cilantro. This has been shown to be chemically true. So before using cilantro for guests be sure that they all can eat it, and always at a dinner party make sure you point out dishes that contain it, if you are not sure.
While cilantro looks like flat leaf parsley the taste is totally different. Cilantro, for those that love it, has a wonderful freshness not matched by any other herb. Use it in just about anything, for contrary to many, cilantro is not just for Mexican dishes, but for almost all cuisines world wide.
I have used it for a pesto in place of basil, and it’s wonderful. Add it to soups for a wonderful kick.
And what is nice that unlike most herbs, the stems are just as good as the leaves. But I prefer to remove the stems after cooking, so my guests only get the leaves.
Cilantro keeps well just in a glass of room temperature water on the counter for about 3-5 days. Using the towel and plastic bag trick also works for almost 2 weeks.
While you will see dried cilantro, I would not recommend it at all. The process of drying removes the bright freshness and I think it tastes like freshly cut grass.
Basil
What most commonly is sold in most groceries stores is sweet basil. But there is more types. Most of them you will either have to grow yourself, or find in your local farmers market if you are lucky. The exception is Thai Basil. That is found in almost any oriental market that carries fresh vegetables.
Sweet basil is the most common of the basil types and has a distinct almost anis quality. Always use fresh basil, because dried does not work well. Fresh will keep for a week using the zip bag trick I previously mentioned. Basil leaves can be used in tomato sauces. They go extraordinarily well with tomatoes, in a Caprese salad. Almost all salads and soups can use a hint of basil. Next time you make a chicken soup try adding in a few finally chopped basil leaves. Also used with fish, shrimp or chicken. But the most famous use is basil pesto and worry there is a recipe coming up.
Lemon basil is generally not found in most super markets, but can be grown at home. Instead of an ansi scent, lemon basil has a distinct lemon aroma and flavor. You can almost always use it interchangeably with sweet basil. This goes extremely well with fish and chicken.
Purple is not as sweet as other basil varieties, and it has a strong clove flavor. This also is a variety you have to grow yourself. I have tried cooking with it and do not care for the flavor cooked but fresh in salads, or as a part of a marinade for pork and chicken it works great.
Thai basil is strong and bold, with a spicy, licorice-like flavor. This type of basil holds up well to high-temperature cooking, so don’t be afraid to add it to your favorite stir-fry recipe [https://www.tasteofhome.com/collection/best-stir-fry-recipes/]. Do not substitute Thai Basil for sweet basil; the results are not very good.
You can not discuss basil without having a recipe for Basil Pesto, the classic Italian sauce make with lots of Basil. There are numerous recipes and techniques for making this wonderful sauce, and this is mine.
A mortar and pestle are required for this first step. Many people will say you can use a blender or food processor, but you really can’t for the first step, and if you don’t do it this way the pesto has the wrong consistency.
Wash and completely dry 2 cups packed fresh basil leaves.
Peel the3 garlic, split in half and remove the germ in the middle. The germ is a new garlic sprout and is normally green at the tip, and clearly visible. There might not be one, but if there is remove it, for it is very bitter. This is important do not leave this step out. Chop the garlic cloves into very small pieces. Place 2 tablespoons pine nuts, ¼ teaspoon kosher salt and the garlic in the mortar and use the pestle to completely grind the mixture until it is a smooth paste.
Add the Basil leaves to a food processor with the nut garlic paste. Pulse about 5-7 times until the mixture is smooth. You will have to use a spatula to scrape down mixture from the sides.
Add in a tablespoon at a time of very high quality Extra Virgin Olive oil, pulsing the mixture to thoroughly incorporate. Add the oil until you have a very smooth sauce. Generally about ¼ of a cup, but it really depends there is no “right” consistency it is your preference.
This makes enough pesto for 1 pound of pasta. But you don’t have to use it all at once. Figure about 1 tablespoon per 2 ounces of pasta.
Just before you serve, add in 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan Regianno cheese, and stir to mix thoroughly, or if preparing less use 2 tablespoons of the cheese per 2 ouches of pasta. Be sure you are using imported Parmesan and not the grocery store knock off, there really is a huge difference. Be sure and mix the pesto and cheese together well before adding to the pasta. Now here is a trick. Before adding you pasta, place the pesto with cheese and a bowl, and add about 2 tablespoons of the pasta cooking water stir to loosen the sauce. Then add the pasta and stir until the pasta is well coated. The hot water is necessary to cook the garlic or it will be way to strong.
Also spread on chicken or fish just before serving. Be sure you put it on hot meat, to cook the garlic. If in doubt pace the meat with pesto in a 350° oven for about 1 minutes.
If you are not going to use this immediately it can be store in a tightly fitting glass container with a thin layer of olive oil on top. But use within 24 hours, or the taste will be lost If you have a mason jar vacuum sealer you can seal this for up to a week.
And yes you can double, triple this recipe, but remember it must be used within 24 hours unless you vacuum seal the jar. This can not be frozen. I have tried and it does not work.
Rosemary
Saying I love rosemary is an understatement. Next to basil this is my go to herb. I love the taste and smell of rosemary, and have a lot of it growing in my herb garden.
Rosemary is great when roasting meats, especially beef and lamb. Use rosemary in your meat marinade and you will be pleasantly surprised. Rosemary is also a key ingredient in many marinades.
Rosemary is especially good with potatoes and most root vegetables if you are grilling or roasting them. Just finely chop the rosemary and add at the beginning of roasting.
Rosemary keeps very well fresh in water and also is great dried. I will often dry rosemary and then grind it to a fine powder and use in in Focaccia dough for a wonderful aroma.
Here is a great way to truly enjoy rosemary.
In a bowl large enough to hold 3 potatoes, add water to the half way point, and about 1 Tablespoon of table salt. You want the water to taste like the ocean. Peel and dice into 1 inch wedges 3 medium sized russet potatoes. Soak in salted water for 1 hour.
While the potatoes are soaking, finely chop a bunch of rosemary leaves until you have a heaping tablespoon.
Rinse and pat dry the potatoes and dry the bowl.
Add the rosemary to the bowl with about 2 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil, and ½ teaspoon of kosher salt. Mix well until the potatoes are well coated.
Preheat for 5 minutes your air fryer to 400°F. Place the coated potatoes in the air fryer basket for 10 minutes, take out the potatoes and place back in the bowl with the oil and rosemary and stir. Add the potato wedges back to the air fryer for another 10 minutes. Meanwhile finely dice 2-3 cloves of garlic. You should have about 2 heaping teaspoons. Add the garlic to the bowl with the rosemary and olive oil. At the end of the 10 minutes the potatoes should be golden brown. If they are not toss them gently and roast in 5 minutes increments until golden brown. When done, add them back to the bowl with the garlic and olive oil mixture and mix well. The heat of the potatoes will be enough to cook the garlic. Add salt and pepper to taste to the still hot potatoes, and enjoy. This is one of my families’s favorite potato recipes. This can also be used for most root vegetables by omitting the garlic.
Thyme
Thyme is one of those herbs that does not have a huge following in the US, but is very common in European cuisines, especially French and Italian. Thyme and meats just go together so well. Thyme is a strong herb so a little goes a long way.
You can use thyme fresh or dried. They almost are the same, but fresh gives you an advantage. You can use the thyme sticks as a brush to baste meats.
Next time you have steak, take a small bunch of fresh time and use it to brush melted butter on you steak during the cooking. The thyme imparts a wonderful taste.
When I sous vide meats I quite often will place a small bunch of thyme into the cooking bag. The result is wonderful. Oh. if you do this make sure to remove the thyme before serving.
Also use the thyme as a brush to baste meats with melted butter while browning or frying them,
Oregano
Most American’s associate oregano with Italian American cooking, and rightly so. This herb dominates the Italian American cuisine. The flavor is strong, and wonderful with tomato based dishes. Interestingly Oregon is better dried than fresh. The flavors are more intense, that is Italian Oregano. Yes, there are three major types of oregano.
Italian oregano is by far the most popular. This variety has the largest leaf, and grows easily in most climates. While it can be used fresh it is by far better dried, which can easily be done in a microwave. Just place a bunch of oregano on piece of parchment paper so none of the leaves touch, and set the microwave on hi for 15 second, check to see if leaves are dry, continue in 15 second increments until completely dried but do not burn. Strip off the leaves off the stalks and store in a jar with a tight lid. This will keep for about 6 months, but if you have it that long you are not using it often enough. Italian oregano is great with any tomato dishes, chicken and red fish. For me the flavor is too strong for most white fish, which leads us to the next most common types.
Greek oregano has smaller leaves, and is not as easily found in most markets, but quite often in farmers markets, and definitely growing your own is an option. The flavor is a lot milder than Italian oregano, and is used mainly fresh and not dried. Use Greek oregano for fresh vegetable salads, especially those with tomatoes and cucumbers, any green vegetables, white fish and poultry.
Tear off the leaves and make sure you don’t include any of the stalks. The stalks have a slightly bitter taste.
Mexican oregano is found in many western food markets, that cater to a hispanic community. I have rarely seen it fresh, but almost always dried. While it is a member of the oregano family, the taste is a lot different.
Marjoram
Marjoram is a cold-sensitive perennial herb with sweet pine and citrus flavors. In many Mediterranean cuisines marjoram is synonymous with oregano but they are not the same. They have a similar aroma, but not taste. Unlike oregano which can be dried, marjoram should always be used fresh. What is interesting is that marjoram enhances the flavor of oregano and they should be used together if possible. You find marjoram used a lot in middle eastern dishes, and central Mexico. Generally it is readily available in most supermarkets fresh, and always dried, which in my opinion should not be used or if used, make sure its used with oregano and not on its own.
Sage
Growing up, I rarely had sage. My father did not like the taste of sage, so we never used it in cooking. It was until I was growing up an adult and cooking on my own that I discovered that I really like the taste of sage. Sage has a very unique flavor and adds a lot to savory dishes. Sage can be used fresh or dried. I find that it adds a lot of flavor to fall dishes such as holiday dressings, and stuffings, pork and poultry dishes, and root vegetables. As far as I know, there is only one type of sage used for cooking. And it keeps quite well, so it won’t go to waste easily like many other herbs do.
Chives
We all know about chives, those really small green tubes that are cut and put on baked potatoes. And rarely do you see them any place else. Well that is a real loss. Chives are members of the onion family and pack a lot of flavor in a very small package. If you can grow you own, please do, for home grown have a lot more flavor then the ones you get in the store. Add at the very end of cooking as you would a garnish, but unlike cosmetic garnishes, chives add a lot of flavor. Also add about a tablespoon chopped finely to any of you chicken or tuna salads for a real treat.
Bay Leaf
I saved bay leaf for last for a specific reason: it is the most controversial of all the herbs I know. There are two camps, those that think bay is wonderful, and those that think it does nothing. If you get around a group of serious culinary types bring up the topic of bay leaf and watch out, the sparks will be flying soon.
I personally think that bay leaves offer a great flavor stimulate. But the leaves have to be good bay leaves and you should be able to smell their aroma. If you can’t smell them don’t use them, which is where I think the controversy comes from. For some strange reason people think that bay lasts for ever. No they last in the dried stage no more than a year and then they lose all of their aroma.
Bay leaf is great used in tomato based sauces, chilis, especially Chile verde, soups, and my favorite is chicken soup. The bay really adds a lot.
Do not think that this is all the herbs, I have only touched the surface and discussed the most popular. My intent was to introduce you to the concept of using herbs in cooking, and now if you have come this far, a little secret. Herbs are used primarily for smell, not taste. Yes many of them have distinct tastes, but there true use in cooking is to add aroma. That is why you always smell your herbs before using. Be adventurous, try some different herbs. If you are not sure when to use them, smell them, and ask yourself how would that go with what you are going to cook. If it smells good use it, if not then don’t. Next time we will dive into spices, and those affect taste as well as smell but in totally different ways. Well that wraps up this episode, and thanks for listening.